Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knitting direction |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sunny Day Stripes |
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Knitted sweater for children with raglan in DROPS Lima or DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with stripes. Sizes 2 – 12 years.
DROPS Children 32-13 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- STRIPES: The piece is worked in stripes, with different stripes on yoke and body/sleeves. Do not cut the strand after each stripe - allow it to follow your work onwards. Stripes on yoke: Work * 4 rounds with goldenrod, 2 rounds with light grey / light grey *, work from *-* until the yoke is finished. Adjust so that you finish with 4 rounds of goldenrod / vanilla yellow (in other words you may need to divide the piece for body and sleeves and continue the yoke-stripes until you have worked 4 rounds with goldenrod / vanilla yellow). Then continue with stripes on body and sleeves as follows: Work * 4 rounds with light grey / light grey, 2 rounds with goldenrod / vanilla yellow *, work from *-* until body/sleeves are finished. INCREASE TIP-1 (for raglan): Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 2 (the marker sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase like this at all marker threads (= a total of 8 stitches increased). The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 128 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 30) = 4.3. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round, top down. The yoke is worked first, starting mid back and then divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. YOKE: Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches with double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and goldenrod / vanilla yellow (in the 2 smallest sizes you need to cast on and work with double pointed needles until you have enough stitches to use a circular needle; the other sizes can be cast on and worked with circular needle). The piece is worked in STRIPES – read description above. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When you have worked 4 rounds change to double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Now continue with stockinette stitch and insert 4 marker threads for raglan on the next round as follows: Work 13-13-13-13-17-17 stitches, insert 1 marker, work 12 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert 1 marker, work 24-28-30-32-32-36 stitches, insert 1 marker, work 12 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert 1 marker and work 15-15-17-19-19-19 stitches = 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches. Knit 1 round. On the next round start to increase to raglan. Increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read INCREASE TIP-1, every 2nd round a total of 15-16-17-18-19-20 times = 204-216-228-240-252-264 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and stripes as before until the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm = 5⅛"-5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7" from the cast-on edge. On the next round divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows: Work 28-30-31-32-36-38 stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches under the sleeve, 58-62-66-70-74-78 stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6 stitches under the sleeve and finish with 30-32-35-38-38-40 stitches in stockinette stitch = 128-136-144-152-160-168 stitches. BODY: Continue working in stockinette stitch and stripes. When the piece measures 15-17-20-23-26-29 cm = 6"-6¾"-8"-9"-10¼"-11⅜" from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 28-32-32-36-40-40 stitches evenly on next round – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 156-168-176-188-200-208 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Bind off with knit when the piece measures 17-19-22-25-28-31 cm = 6¾"-7½"-8¾"-9¾"-11"-12¼" from where body and sleeves were divided; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight - you can use a size larger needle if this is a problem when binding off. The sweater measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13"-14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½", measured from shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches from the thread on the one side of the body on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Continue with stripes as on the body, in stockinette stitch and in the round. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. When the sleeve measures 2 cm = ¾" from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-5-5-7-6 cm = 1½"-1½"-2"-2"-2¾"-2⅜" a total of 5-6-5-6-5-6 times = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. When the piece measures 19-23-27-31-35-38 cm = 7½"-9"-10⅝"-12¼"-13¾"-15" from where body and sleeve were divided, change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib over all stitches (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 23-27-31-35-39-42 cm = 9"-10⅝"-12¼"-13¾"-15¼"-16½" from where body and sleeve were divided. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (18)
Annamaria wrote:
Hi, Is it possible to make the increases by making stitches and not with yarn overs? Thank you.
06.10.2022 - 20:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Annamaria, yes, you can increase making stitches (pick up the thread between stitches and work a stitch). Ensure that picking up the thread does not tighten the knitting too much. Happy knitting!
07.10.2022 - 00:08Monica Sandorf wrote:
Tack för snabbt svar på min fråga igår, men jag stickar inte runt. Jag stickar koftan fram och tillbaka på rundsticka och tolkar då ert svar som att det är på varje rätt varv jag ska öka. Korrekt? Hälsningar Monica
30.06.2022 - 12:15DROPS Design answered:
Hei Monica. Ja, hver rad det strikkes rett økes det. mvh DROPS Design
04.07.2022 - 10:28Monica Sandorf wrote:
Hej! Ökningar för raglan görs vartannat varv. Menas varje rätt varv = från rätsidan varje varv och att man inte ökar på avigsidan. Jag förstår att man bara ökar på rätsidan, men ökar man varje rätt varv när det står att ökningen görs vartannat varv? Tacksam för hjälp! Monica
29.06.2022 - 21:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Monica. Denna tröja stickas runt och du ökar på vartannat varv, dvs ett varv med ökning, nästa varv utan ökning, nästa varv med ökning osv. Mvh DROPS Design
30.06.2022 - 12:06Susanne Bækgaard wrote:
Hej! Jeg er ved at strikke denne model, men da der skal tages ud, før rib på ryg/forstykke, så kommer maskeantallet ikke til at passe, når der skal strikkes 2 ret /2 vrang - tag 2 masker mindre ud - gælder alle størrelser og så passer det, så man ikke begynder og slutter med 2 ret på omgangen. Hvad den første rettelse, der er lavet ang. bærestykket, så giver det da ingen mening - noget mangelfuld! Venlig hilsen Susanne Bækgaard
28.06.2022 - 09:47DROPS Design answered:
Hej Susanne, tak for info, vi skal få rettet så ribben nederst passer. Det er kun selve rettelsen vi noterer nederst. Den er rettet i mønsteret på nettet, så det skal stemme :)
29.06.2022 - 10:54Katariina wrote:
Toiseksi pienimmässä koossa silmukoita on ohjeen mukaan 170 ennen resorin aloittamista. Tämä johtaa siihen, että resori loppuu 2 oikeaan silmukkaan.
03.06.2022 - 20:33DROPS Design answered:
Ohje on korjattu. Ennen joustinneuleen neulomista työhön lisätään silmukoita siten, että kyseisessä koossa on 168 silmukkaa.
05.09.2022 - 17:47Marit Johnsen wrote:
Det er penere å la omgangsskiftet følge en raglan-"søm" bak og etter inndeling til bol og ermer omdefinere omgangens begynnelse til midt under ermet/ i siden (det blir en forflytning på 3 masker). Jeg håper dere gjr noe for å rydde opp i oppskriften!
05.02.2022 - 12:52DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marit. Noen oppskrifter har omgangskiftet i raglanlinjen, mens noen midt bak, smak og behag hva man syns er penest. Vi prøver å tilfredstille alle. Om du ser på vårt svar under ditt første Spørsmål, så ser vi ingen nødvendighet til å "rydde" opp i en riktig skrevet oppskrift. mvh DROPS Design
07.02.2022 - 14:32Marit Johnsen wrote:
For å ende opp på det angitte masketallet til rygg, ermer og front må ermeøkninger avsluttes først (etter 14 økinger ) og deretter må det økes en ekstra omgang til rygg (15 ganger totalt) og tre ekstra til front (17 ganger). Hvis dette stemmer, burde det vært angitt i oppskrift. Det er veldig uklart slik som det er nå. En anna "merkelig" greie, er å la omgangen begynne midt på bakstykket (eller misforstår jeg alt og det er egentlig frontstykket?). ...Se forts. i neste kommentar!
05.02.2022 - 12:51DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marit. Se vårt svart på ditt Spørsmål under. mvh DROPS Design
07.02.2022 - 14:29Marit Johnsen wrote:
Er dere sikker på at oppskriften er rett , selv etter "oppdateringen"? Jeg tror ikke det. Der er noe med masketall som ikke stemmer. Mitt utgangspunkt er den minste størrelsen. Antar omgangen begynner "midt bak" -eller egentlig et par maske til høyre for midt bak. Det er av en eller anna grunn 4 masker mer over nakken enn det er til front. Likevel ender rygg- og frontdel opp med likt masketall etter likt antall økninger til raglan. ....se forts. i neste kommentar!
05.02.2022 - 12:48DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marit. Noen oppskrifter har omgangskiftet i raglanlinjen, mens noen midt bak, smak og behag. I denne oppskriften er det flere masker over ryggen enn fremstykket. Man starter ca. midt bak. 28 masker bak, 24 masker foran og 16 masker til hvert erme = 84 masker. Man øker med 8 masker på hver omgang med raglansøkninger og man øker 15 ganger, = 58 masker på bakstykket (15+28+15), 54 masker på forstykket (15+24+15) og 46 masker på hver erme (15+16+15). Når arbeidet skal deles, tar man litt av ermmaskene til front (pga passform). Da vil maskeantallet bli det samme på forstykket og bakstykket, og ermene har det samme maskeantallet. mvh DROPS Design
07.02.2022 - 14:28Vera Mente wrote:
Hej! Hur många nystan behöver jag om jag vill sticka modellen enfärgad? Tack på förhand.
15.12.2021 - 16:40DROPS Design answered:
Hej Vera. Det har vi dessvärre ingen uppgift på, men jag hade nog köpt lika många gram som i originalet för att vara säker på att ha tillräckligt. Mvh DROPS Design
20.12.2021 - 09:48Judith wrote:
Hallo, ich bin gerade bei "Passe" ...beim letzten Absatz, da passt doch die Gesamtmaschenzahl nicht ...egal welche Größe (ich stricke 122/128), hatte vor dem Aufteilen der Maschen für Ärmel ...240 M das passt, danach sind es 252 - nicht wie in der Anleitung 152 ...da ist ein Fehler. Viele Grüße Judith
29.03.2021 - 19:15DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Judith, die Maschenzahl "152" bezieht sich auf die Maschen, die noch auf der Nadel sind - ohne die stillgelegten Maschen für die Ärmel. Dann stimmt diese Zahl. Mit den stillgelegten Maschen haben Sie insgesamt 252 Maschen - 152 Maschen auf der Nadel + 100 stillgelegte Maschen (= 50 pro Ärmel). Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!
03.04.2021 - 11:03