DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little Red Nose

Knitted Christmas jumper for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.

DROPS Children 32-10
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-040-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152) 
Materials: 
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 (200-250-250-250-300-300) g colour 11, red
50 (50-50-50-50-50-50) g colour 07, light brown
50 (50-50-100-100-100-100) g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM – for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.


CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM: for noses.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out when to decrease/increase on the round, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 12. In this example, decrease by working together each 11th and 12th stitch, or increase after each 12th stitch by making 1 yarn over (the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS (2-5/6-7/8) YEARS: place 1 marker between 2 stitches mid-front (after 33 (36-42-42) stitches).
SIZE (3/4-9/10-11/12) YEARS: place 1 marker in the stitch mid-front (in stitch 39-46-46)
Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left before the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on the other side, turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on other side. Continue by working 8 stitches less each time you turn, 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten strand and knit to mid-back. 

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START THE PIECE HERE :

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. A yoke is worked first, then divided for body and sleeves. The round starts approx. mid back. Body is worked in the round with circular needle. Sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 72 (76-80-84-88-96-100) stitches with red and double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm (in the 2 smallest sizes you need to cast on and work with double pointed needles until you have enough stitches to use a circular needle; the other sizes can be cast on and worked with circular needle).
Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Continue this rib for 3 cm.

YOKE:
Change to double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm.
Knit 1 round and decrease 6 (4-3-0-4-5-9) stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 66 (72-77-84-84-91-91) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or continue working.
Work pattern A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches). Continue this pattern and increase as shown in diagram.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been completed there are 176 (192-209-228-240-260-260) stitches on the needle.
Continue with stocking stitch and red.
On the next round increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on round = 183 (199-219-235-243-260-271) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm mid front (measured without neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 25 (27-30-32-34-36-38) stitches, place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 8 stitches on the needle, work 49 (53-59-63-67-72-75) stitches, place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 8 stitches on the needle and work the remaining 25 (27-30-32-34-36-38) stitches as before = 115 (123-135-143-151-160-167) stitches. 

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under each of the sleeves (= 57 (61-67-71-75-80-83) stitches between marker threads on the front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! When the piece measures 3 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat this increase when the piece measures 6 and 9 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 127 (135-147-155-163-172-179) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 9 (9-9-9-9-8-9) stitches evenly on the next round = 136 (144-156-164-172-180-188) stitches.
Change to needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole jumper measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm, measured from shoulder. 

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50 (54-58-62-62-66-68) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 8 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with red. When the sleeve measures 1 cm from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 1½ (2-2-2½-3-3½-3½) cm a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 38 (42-42-46-46-50-50) stitches. When the sleeve measures 10 (12-17-20-24-27-31) cm from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 2 stitches evenly on round = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8 cm or to desired length.
On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 45 (50-50-55-55-60-60) stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm from where body and sleeve were divided.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NOSES:
Crochet with red and hook size 3 mm as follows: Work 4 chain stitches and 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 nose for each reindeer (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) noses). Tie the noses to each reindeer and fasten the strands.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.11.2020
under BODY:
Change to needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm.

Diagram

symbols = light brown
symbols = red
symbols = off white
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour in the pattern stripe; on the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 32-10

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Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Sicot wrote:

Bonjour, je veux faire le pull little Red Nose 12/18 mois.je n arrive pas à comprendre le schéma. Le pull se fait de haut en bas, jamais je n en ai fais de cette façon. Quand je regarde le schéma au dessus du col il y a 2 rangées de chiffres, sur le coté c est pareils je ne vois pas à quoi ils correspondent. À quel moment je fais les augmentations pour les manches ainsi que les dessins. Je vous remercie de m apporter votre aide. \r\nCordialement.

09.02.2024 - 13:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sicot, les nombres dans le schéma correspondent aux mesures prises à plat pour chaque taille, ce modèle est décliné en 7 tailles, on a donc 7 nombres pour chaque mesure. Dans cette leçon, nous montrons comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas (avec raglan, mais l'idée reste la même); elle pourra probablement vous aider à comprendre comment on tricote. Le diagramme A.1 se lit de bas en haut, et tous les tours de droite à gauche. Bon tricot!

12.02.2024 - 07:07

country flag Iryna wrote:

Hallo! Ich habe eine Frage: wie ich die Größe 146/152 bis nächste Größe 158/164 ändern kann? Es sieht so aus, dass mein Sohn bald 158/164 braucht. Und er will unbedingt diesen Pulli. Vielen Dank und frohe Weihnachten!

26.12.2023 - 21:10

country flag Loly wrote:

Hola de nuevo podría ser que al menguar los 6puntos después del elástico ,el motivo por el cual se queda como un cono gracias de nuevo

27.11.2023 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Loly, puede ser que sea al disminuir los puntos; en ese caso prueba a disminuir menos puntos para el cuerpo, y ajustar el cuerpo posteriormente con el nuevo número de puntos.

03.12.2023 - 23:17

country flag Margret Snyers wrote:

Hallo ich stricke gerade diesen Pullover bin bald fertig,nur noch die Ärmel juhu...jetzt soll ich zusätzlich ( je) 1 Masche aus den 8 M. Unter dem Arm angeschlagenen Maschen auffassen, wo und wann mache ich das müssen noch Maschen übrig bleiben? Zum zunähen? Wie fasse ich die 8 Maschen auf?

26.11.2023 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Snyers, schauen Sie mal in dieser Lektion: ab Bild 17 zeigen wir wie die Maschen vom Ärml gestrickt werden, beim 18B wie diese Maschen aufgefassen werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.11.2023 - 09:47

country flag Loly wrote:

Hola de nuevo me podríais decir porque a mi nieto y nieta el cuello del jersey no le queda como al niño de la foto ,si no que le queda despegado con forma de cono gracias por contestar

24.11.2023 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Loly, puede ser que, cuando pasas del elástico del cuello al punto jersey del canesú, trabajes demasiado prieto el punto jersey, lo que hace que se eleve el cuello, haciendo esa forma de embudo o cono. Puedes intentar usar una aguja ligeramente más grande para obtener la tensión correcta. También puede ser que el elástico quede muy flojo (recuerda que debe quedar más prieto que el resto de la labor en punto jersey) o que el borde de montaje quede demasiado prieto. En principio, al trabajar la prenda de arriba abajo, el cuello debería asentarse mejor.

26.11.2023 - 19:12

country flag Ramona wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe das Diagramm zu Pullover DROPS Children 32-10 nicht. Wenn ich Größe 80/86 stricken möchte, nehme ich Diagramm A1 mit 6 Maschen. Also A1 6. Ist das korrekt? Aber was bedeuten die Zahlen 12/18-2 darunter? Danke für eine Erklärung. Ramona

18.11.2023 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ramona, in 80/86 folgen Sie das untere Diagram mit 6 Maschen für Grössen 12/18 Monate / 2 Jahren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.11.2023 - 09:58

country flag Loly wrote:

Hola no sé qué hago mal pero la orilla del cuello y cenefa queda como un embudo y no queda la orilla del cuello asentada o sea no queda sobre el cuello gracias

17.11.2023 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Loly, puede ser que, cuando pasas del elástico del cuello al punto jersey del canesú, trabajes demasiado prieto el punto jersey, lo que hace que se eleve el cuello, haciendo esa forma de embudo o cono. Puedes intentar usar una aguja ligeramente más grande para obtener la tensión correcta. También puede ser que el elástico quede muy flojo (recuerda que debe quedar más prieto que el resto de la labor en punto jersey) o que el borde de montaje quede demasiado prieto. En principio, al trabajar la prenda de arriba abajo, el cuello debería asentarse mejor.

26.11.2023 - 19:12

country flag Silke Bilet wrote:

DROPS Children 32-10 DROPS Design: Modell me-040-bn Hallo,ich bin dabei, das obige Modell zu stricken- Passe ist fertig, jetzt soll für den Rumpf bei 13cm excl. Halsausschnitt die arbeit geteilt werden... ich habe aber bereits jetzt 15,5cm Länge...hätte ich während der Passe schon teilen müssen??? Danke für eine Antwort LG Silke Bilet

11.11.2023 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bilet, es hängt sicher an Ihrer Reihenanzahl für 10 cm, nach A.1 soll die Arbeit bzw A.1 ca 13 cm messen. Wenn A.1 bei Ihnen länger ist, dann sollen Sie die Arbeit früher = nach 13 cm verteilen und dann A.1 beim Rumpf und Ärmel separat zur Ende stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.11.2023 - 07:42

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, je fais référence à la question de Catherine du 18/1/2023, et à la réponse qui l accompagne. Dans les explications pour la réhausse, il est dit de refaire 2 fois de plus les rangs raccourcis en enlevant 8 mailles de chaque côté. Ors, dans votre réponse vous parlez de 4 mailles....pouvez-vous préciser s il vous plaît ?Merci à vous

19.10.2023 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, les explications sont justes, vous devez tricoter 8 mailles à chacun des rangs raccourcis de la réhausse, il doit s'agir d'une faute de frappe dans la réponse précédente. Bon tricot!

19.10.2023 - 15:54

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas comment augmenter le tricot car sur le schéma A 1 au rang 4 lorsqu'on commence le motif il faut augmenter au début et à la fin du motif d'une maille : ce qui veut dire qu'il faut faire 2 jetés consécutifs? Merci à toute votre équipe !

31.08.2023 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, on tricote le 1er rang de A.1 ainsi: sur 6 mailles en taille 12/18 mois et 2 ans: (1 jeté, 5 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end) - sur 7 mailles dans les autres tailles: (7 m end, 1 jeté) - répétez de (à) tout le tour, vous aurez ainsi 1 m entre les jeté en 12/18 mois et 2 ans et 7 m entre chaque jeté dans les autres tailles. Bon tricot!

01.09.2023 - 08:31