DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Selvik

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL

DROPS 196-18
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-144
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 32, dark rose
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g colour 80, rose
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM – length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM – length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing knit approx. each 3rd and 4th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

KNITTING TIP-2:
It is also important to maintain the knitting tension in height or the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small!

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= the stitch with the marker thread), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-120-124-132 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and dark rose. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 24-28-32-32-36-44 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 128-136-144-152-160-176 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round. Then work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2! Work A.1 in the round (= 32-34-36-38-40-44 repeats of 4 stitches).
Continue this pattern in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1 increase evenly on round as described below – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the round marked with arrow-1 increase 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 160-168-176-184-200-216 stitches (there is now room for 20-21-22-23-25-27 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-2 increase 32-40-40-40-40-48 stitches evenly on round = 192-208-216-224-240-264 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-27-28-30-33 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-3 increase 32-32-40-48-48-40 stitches evenly on round = 224-240-256-272-288-304 stitches (there is now room for 14-15-16-17-18-19 repeats of 16 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-4 increase 32-32-32-32-40-48 stitches evenly on round (there is now room for 32-34-36-38-41-44 repeats of 8 stitches) = 256-272-288-304-328-352 stitches.
On the round marked with arrow-5 increase 32-32-32-24-32-32 stitches evenly on round (there is now room for 36-38-40-41-45-48 repeats of 8 stitches) = 288-304-320-328-360-384 stitches. The increases are now finished in sizes S, M and L.
On the row marked with arrow-6 (for sizes XL, XXL and XXXL) increase 24-24-32 stitches evenly on round = 288-304-320-352-384-416 stitches on the needle. The increases are now finished in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL.
Continue working until just the last round in A.1 is left. The piece now measures 22-24-26-28-30-31 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 40-44-46-50-56-64 stitches as shown in last row in the diagram (= ½ back piece), place the next 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 80-88-92-100-112-128 stitches as shown in the last round in the diagram (= front piece), place the next 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 40-44-46-50-56-64 stitches as shown in last round in diagram (= ½ back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 176-192-208-224-256-288 stitches. The first round is worked as follows:
SIZES S, M, XL and XXL: Work A.2 in the round (= 22-24-28-32 repeats of 8 stitches). When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round (= 11-12-14-16 repeats of 16 stitches). Then continue as described under ALL SIZES.
SIZES L and XXXL: Work A.3 in the round (= 13-18 repeats of 16 stitches). Then continue as described under ALL SIZES.
ALL SIZES:
Continue A.3 as described above. A.3 is repeated in height as far as the rib. AT THE SAME TIME on the round marked with an arrow in A.3 increase 16 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 192-208-224-240-272-304 stitches (this increase is only on the first repeat of A.3 in height).
Continue this pattern (there is now room for 1 more repeat of A.3 in width).
Work until the piece measures approx. 29-29-29-29-29-30 cm from the division for sleeves – finish after a complete pattern section in dark rose.
Knit 1 round with dark rose where you increase 40-40-44-48-56-60 stitches evenly on round = 232-248-268-288-328-364 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight (if this is a problem, you can make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off - the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-72-80-88-96-96 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches under the sleeve, i.e. insert the marker thread in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-35-39-43-47-47 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch (= mid-stitch). There are now 35-35-39-43-47-47 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. The marker thread under the sleeve is later used when you decrease under the sleeve and the marker thread on top is used to count to where the pattern starts.
READ THE REST OF THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work the last round in A.1 so that A.1 finishes in the same way as on the body.
PATTERN:
In sizes S, M, XL, XXL work A.2 in the round (= 9-9-11-12 repeats of 8 stitches), but count out from the middle - mid-stitch in A.2 should match the stitch with the marker thread on top of sleeve. When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the same way. In sizes L and XXXL work A.3 straight after working the last round in A.1 and count out from the mid-stitch in the same way as for the other sizes.
A.3 is repeated in height until the piece measures 29-28-26-23-22-21 cm from the division – finish after a complete repeat in height. Then work A.4 in the round in the same way.
DECREASING:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-3-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 14-12-16-18-20-20 times = 44-48-48-52-56-56 stitches.
When the sleeve measures approx. 39-38-36-34-33-32 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) knit 1 round with dark rose where you increase 4 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 48-52-52-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight (if this is a problem, you can make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off - yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 43-42-40-38-37-36 cm from the division down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = dark rose
symbols = increase round
symbols = mid-stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Arnhild Sand wrote:

Hei! Jeg får ikke maskeantallet til å stemme ved innsetting av ermet. Jeg strikker i str M og setter merke etter de 4 første m som er plukket opp under ermet. Teller 35 m og setter nytt merke. Det skal da være igjen 35 m, men jeg får 37 m. Totalt skal det være 72 m, men 35 + 35 = 70 m. Hva skal jeg gjøre? På forhånd takk.

22.10.2018 - 20:29

country flag Lene Nielsen wrote:

Hvor ser jeg hvilken størrelse jeg skal bruge, ved godt der er en tegning på 9 side men syntes den er svær, kan feks. ikke se et mål over bryst, målet længer nede virker meget lille hvis det er omkreds for jeg er 77 cm under bryst og bruger normalt en S str.\r\nPå forhånd tak

14.10.2018 - 11:15

country flag Sussie wrote:

Kommentar til nedenstående spørgsmål: A.3 er på standardvisning, men ikke på mobilversion, så behøver ikke svar på det , tak

22.09.2018 - 21:01

country flag Sussie wrote:

Jeg strikker blusen i L, jeg kan altså ikke se der står A.3 nogen steder? Der står A.2 fire steder,og A.4 et sted på de små mønstre nederst?

22.09.2018 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sussie, Du finder diagram A.3 aller nederst i opskriften under de andre diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

24.09.2018 - 10:41

country flag Tiina Heinonen wrote:

Onko kyseinen malli sopiva myös mihille vai onko olemassa heille omat mallit?

12.09.2018 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tämä malli on suunnitelu naisille, mutta esimerkiksi lehdistä DROPS 185 ja 174 löytyy malleja miehille.

13.09.2018 - 14:27

country flag Mariam wrote:

Hei, jeg strikker genseren i str L, men det finnes to mønster på A3, og str L står oppført på begge. Hvilken er det da riktig at jeg skal bruke?

07.09.2018 - 10:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mariam, det skal vi få fjernet fra det ene A3. Tak for info :)

11.09.2018 - 09:39

country flag Aase wrote:

Smuk, smuk, smuk. rigtig fin til sensommer og efterår. Den vil jeg gerne strikke til mig selv

03.08.2018 - 21:07

country flag Gunhild Falkevik wrote:

Nydeleg og harmonisk mønster

05.07.2018 - 11:40