DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 195-39
DROPS design: Pattern ne-271
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: approx. 95 x 123 cm
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400 g colour 0100, off white
350 g colour 0501, grey
300 g colour 0500, light grey

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET TENSION:
14 treble crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm. One square measures approx. 28 x 28 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3, A.4 and A.5.

SQUARE COLOURS:
Work 3 squares in every colour combination, at colour change work the last slip stitch on round with the colour on next round. Place the old yarn along the over side of stitches and work around this yarn a bit on next round before cutting the yarn.

SQUARE 1:
Round 1: grey
Round 2: light grey
Round 3: off white
Round 4: off white
Round 5: light grey
Round 6: grey
Round 7: off white
Round 8: light grey
Round 9: light grey
Round 10: off white
Round 11: off white

SQUARE 2:
Round 1: off white
Round 2: light grey
Round 3: light grey
Round 4: grey
Round 5: light grey
Round 6: grey
Round 7: light grey
Round 8: off white
Round 9: off white
Round 10: light grey
Round 11: off white

SQUARE 3:
Round 1: light grey
Round 2: off white
Round 3: off white
Round 4: off white
Round 5: light grey
Round 6: light grey
Round 7: grey
Round 8: off white
Round 9: off white
Round 10: light grey
Round 11: off white

SQUARE 4:
Round 1: off white
Round 2: off white
Round 3: grey
Round 4: grey
Round 5: light grey
Round 6: grey
Round 7: light grey
Round 8: off white
Round 9: light grey
Round 10: grey
Round 11: off white

EDGE COLOUR:
Switch colour for every round, at colour change work the last slip stitch on round with the colour on next round. Place the old yarn along the over side of stitches and work around this yarn a bit on next round before cutting the yarn. Work rounds in these colours:
Round 1: light grey
Round 2: off white
Round 3: light grey
Round 4: grey
Round 5: off white

CROCHET INFO (applies to diagram A.5):
On 1st, 3rd and 4th round replace first symbol (3 chain stitches) with 6 chain stitches. These replace 3 chain stitches and last treble crochet on round. Therefore finish the round with 1 treble crochet less than shown in diagram A.5 and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
On 2nd and 5th round replace first symbol (3 chain stitches) with 4 chain stitches. These replace 3 chain stitches and last double crochet on round. Therefore finish the round with 1 double crochet less than shown in diagram A.5 and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BLANKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The blanket is made up of squares. Work the squares in 4 different colour combinations, when are squares are done, sew square together before crocheting an edge around the entire blanket.

SQUARE:
Begin with Nepal on hook size 5 mm and work SQAURE COLOURS – read explanation above and PATTERN according to diagram A.1. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When all squares are done, there are 12 squares in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Place squares as shown on chart. Make sure they all lay with the right side up. Use off white and sew squares together edge to edge with one stitch in each stitch, make sure to make a flat seam. Fasten off.

EDGE:
Work 1 edge around the entire blanket. Work every round in different colours – read EDGE COLOURS above.
Work according to diagram A.2, A.3, A.4 and A.5 as follows:
Start with light grey and hook size 5 mm, begin in first corner on a short side on blanket.
** Work diagram A.2 over the first corner and the next 10 double crochets – read CROCHET INFO. Work A.3 over the next 30 double crochets (= 5 times), work A.4 in transition between squares and over the next 5 double crochets, * work A.3 over the next 36 double crochets (= 6 times), work A.4 in transition between squares and over the next 5 double crochets *, work A.3 over the next 24 double crochets (= 4 times), work A.5 over the next 11 double crochets and corner, work A.2 over the corner and the next 10 double crochets, work A.3 over the next 30 double crochets (= 5 times), work A.4 in transition between squares and over the next 5 double crochets, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, work A.3 over the next 24 double crochets (= 4 times), A.5 over the next 11 double crochets and corner **. 1 short side and 1 long side are now done. Repeat from **-** along the other 2 sides. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, the edge is done. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.09.2018
Correction on round 4 and 5 in chart A.1.

Diagram

symbols = 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = slip stitch in/around stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = half treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = double treble crochet in stitch
symbols = work in stitch arrow points to
symbols = 1 half treble crochet at the top of double treble crochet group from 3rd round.
symbols = 4 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AT BEGINNING OF ROUND: 4 chain stitches (= 1 double treble crochet), work 2 double treble crochets in next stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double treble crochets, work 1 double treble crochet in next stitch and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = 4 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER: work 1 double treble crochet in next stitch, but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 2 double treble crochets in next stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double treble crochets, work 1 double treble crochet in next stitch and pull last yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
symbols = 3 chain stitches in when working according to diagram A.1. When edge around blanket is worked, begin and finish round with 6 or 4 chain stitches that replace 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet/double crochet - read CROCHET INFO.
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = double crochets from previous round
symbols = this round is already worked, it shows how next round is worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag XONDRA BARTON wrote:

I am about to hand write the pattern for the Ceramic Tile Blanket. Before I do I thought it best to check if there is one available.

20.06.2023 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Barton, there is only diagram to the square, no written pattern - but there are 2 videos for this square: Rounds 1 - 6 and Round 7 - 11. Happy crocheting!

21.06.2023 - 08:06

country flag Lena wrote:

Hej, Jag vill göra en större pläd, 4X5 rutor, hur mycket garn behöver jag?. Tänkte virka i Paris bomullsgarn, nr 17, 26 och 65.

19.06.2023 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena, skulle tro att du behöver ca 700 g till... :)

22.06.2023 - 14:05

country flag XONDRA BARTON wrote:

If I want to make more tiles for the blanket to make it bigger, what would the sequence be of the tile layout - 16 /20 or 24 tiles. Have you done a sequence with more tiles. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

18.06.2023 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Xondra, you can mix the sequence and join them as you prefer. If you want to increase it, you should maintain it into a multiple of 4: 16, 20, 24. 24 would be for a blanket double the size. For example, to increase one more column vertically, you should add in each row the square that was missing from that row (1,2,3,4, in that order). For the next columns, you could maintain the previous sequence or just mix them up. Happy crocheting!

18.06.2023 - 19:29

country flag XONDRA BARTON wrote:

I have tried to watch the tutorial videos - there is no sound. How do I get sound?

30.05.2023 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Barton, our videos do not have sound. We are a worldwide company and our videos are watched by people around the world, speaking different languages, many of whom do not understand English. You will have then to read the written pattern and look at the diagram to follow the video for the square. Happy crocheting!

30.05.2023 - 16:10

country flag Linda wrote:

Ik ben een beginner met haken. Ik ken een stokje en vaste steek Maar "Stokje om losse" Wat wil dit zeggen?

22.06.2022 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag LInda,

Als je een stokje om de losse haakt, dan steek je de haaknaald niet in de losse, maar er omheen.

26.06.2022 - 10:02

country flag Christel Golay wrote:

BTW - I just love your site. I just retired and I have decided to take up crocheting again after 30 years! I have found your site very helpful and easy to find what I need. I look forward to hearing an answer to my question that I just posted before this comment. Thanks and all the best, Christel

02.08.2020 - 01:57

country flag Christel Golay wrote:

Instead of a 3 x 4 = 12 tile blanket as per this pattern, I want to make a bigger 4 x 6 = 24 tile blanket. Can I just order twice the yarn specified in the pattern, or will I need more/less of the colors to account for more border? I'd appreciate all the help I can get to make sure I order enough yarn! Thanks, Christel

02.08.2020 - 01:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Golay, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

03.08.2020 - 08:03

country flag Adela Konjarova wrote:

Ahojky hackuji tuto deku a mám pocit že spotřeba bude větší nez je psána ada

29.07.2020 - 22:31

country flag Kasia wrote:

Dzień dobry, próbowałam zrobić ze schematu i opisu ale bardzo dzowne rzeczy mi wychodziły. Sięgnęłam do filmu (na szczęście jest)! I okazyje się że to co podajecie w opisie Schematu nie zgadza się z tym co pokazane na filmie. Oczka ścisłe w oczko to półsłupki na filmie, półsłupek w oczko przerabiany jest jak słupek w którym przerabia się od razu 3 oczka po narzuceniu i przeciądnięciu. Czy możecie zweryfikować opis oznaczeń użytych w schemacie? Pozdrawiam, Kasia

27.02.2020 - 07:44

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu! W polskim nazewnictwie szydełkowym są 2 różne sposoby nazywania podstawowych ściegów, wiemy, że to mylące, ale dla przejrzystości musieliśmy wybrać i trzymamy się konsekwentnie jednego z nich: a mianowicie nasze oczko ścisłe jest również przez niektórych nazywane oczkiem zamykającym, nie mamy też rozróżnienia między półsłupkiem, a półsłupkiem nawijanym (jak piszesz słupek, w którym przerabia się od razu 3 oczka po narzuceniu i przeciągnięciu). W każdym naszym wzorze na dole znajdziesz filmiki video jak są przerabiane poszczególne ściegi (w kursach drops szczegółowo są opisane te techniki). Poza tym są nagrywane filmy do poszczególnych wzorów, tak aby maksymalnie ułatwić użytkowniczkom pracę. Cieszymy się, że korzystasz z naszych wzorów i serdecznie pozdrawiamy.

28.02.2020 - 08:36

country flag Henriette wrote:

Bonjour, merci beaucoup pour votre aide, mon plaid est très beau! En revanche, 4 pelotes entières de Népal gris foncé en trop et plus d'une de naturel....

22.12.2019 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Henriette! Merci de nous avoir informe. Cordialement

30.12.2019 - 11:52