DROPS / 194 / 31

Way to Go Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with cables, garter stitch and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ks-137
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 11, lavender

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 41 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 80 cm for garter stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches), subtract the band (= 92 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 7.66.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 7th and 8th stitch. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. Increase like this at both markers (= 4 stitches increased in total). On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Then work the new stitches in garter stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, purl the next 2 stitches together, purl last stitch. On next row purl yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 8-8-7½-7½-7-7 cm between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked top down. Work the yoke back and forth, then divide the piece into body and sleeves. Continue body back and forth in garter stitch. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles either in stocking stitch or reversed stocking stitch.

YOKE:
Cast on 102-106-110-116-120-128 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm with Kid-Silk. Purl 5 band stitches, work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, until 5 stitches remain and finish with purl 5 band stitches. Purl band on all rows (i.e. opposite of garter stitch) and knit the remaining stitches on all rows. Work 2 ridges in total. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.
Then work as follows from right side: Purl 5 band stitches, knit and increase 12-8-8-14-10-10 stitches evenly until 5 stitches remain - read INCREASE TIP-1 above and finish with purl 5 band stitches = 114-114-118-130-130-138 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side inside purl 5 band stitches in each side.
Work next row as follows from right side:
Purl 5 band stitches, 8-8-9-12-12-14 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 16 stitches), 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, 16-16-18-24-24-28 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, 8-8-9-12-12-14 stitches in garter stitch and finish with purl 5 band stitches.
Purl band on all rows until finished measurements.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 138-138-142-154-154-162 stitches on needle. Now work A.2 (= 22 stitches) over A.1 AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan on first row in A.2 as follows: Increase with 1 yarn over on each side of every A.2 (= 8 stitches increased). Knit yarn overs twisted on next row and then in garter stitch.
Increase like this every other row 10-13-17-18-20-22 times, then every 4th row 13-14-13-14-15-16 times = 322-354-382-410-434-466 stitches.
Continue with pattern and in garter stitch until piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge.
On next row from right side decrease 3 stitches over each cable (i.e. 6 stitches in every A.2 = 24 stitches in total decreased) = 298-330-358-386-410-442 stitches. Knit 1 row from with purl 5 band stitches from wrong side.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows: Purl 5 stitches, 42-46-50-55-60-66 stitches in garter stitch, slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-84 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve, work 84-92-100-110-120-132 stitches in garter stitch, slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-84 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve, work 42-46-50-55-60-66 stitches in garter stitch and finish with purl 5 stitches = 194-210-230-250-274-298 stitches.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under each sleeve (= 92-100-110-120-132-144 stitches on back piece and 51-55-60-65-71-77 stitches on each front piece). Continue in garter stitch and purl over band as before. When body measures 2 cm from where body was divided for sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker - read INCREASE TIP-2 above.
Increase like this every 2½ cm 10 times in total = 234-250-270-290-314-338 stitches. Continue in garter stitch until body measures 31-31-32-32-32-32 cm from where body was divided from sleeves. Cast off. Make sure that the cast-off edges are not too tight. Cast off with 1 needle size larger if needed. Piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 60-68-74-78-80-84 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece back on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Continue in either stocking stitch or reversed stocking stitch. If you choose reversed stocking stitch, turn piece and work from wrong side until finished measurements (sleeves will then have wrong side facing outwards).
When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP above. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm 12-15-18-19-20-21 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. Continue by knitting from wrong side piece measures 40-38-38-36-35-33 cm from where the sleeve was divided at body. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, for 3 cm. Cast off with 2 strands. Make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, cast off with 1 needle size larger if needed. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons on left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.11.2018
Correction - BUTTONHOLES: ..Make 1 yarn over, purl the next 2 stitches together and purl the last stitch. On the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole..
Updated online: 05.04.2019
Correction: sleeves are worked wither in stocking stitch, or reversed stocking stitch

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row; it should NOTE make a hole
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Laura 28.09.2019 - 11:18:

Buongiorno, sarebbe possibile inserire un'alzata sullo scollo dietro per ridurre la scollatura e in caso affermativo come potrei fare? Grazie

DROPS Design 28.09.2019 kl. 16:04:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì, è possibile inserire un'alzata sul dietro lavorando ferri accorciati. Purtroppo in questa sede non riusciamo a soddisfare le richieste di personalizzazione ai modelli. Può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia o verificare se ci sono modelli simili con già presente la spiegazione per l'alzata. Buon lavoro!

Ida Varani 08.05.2019 - 22:07:

Buona sera, io l'ho realizzato mettendo il filato doppio ed utilizzando i ferri del 3.75 e del 4.5 anziché il 3 ed il 4. E' venuto perfetto, bellissimo e soprattutto è una nuvola calda. Spiegazione perfetta, sono molto soddisfatta. Grazie

BERENGERE CHARRIER 04.05.2019 - 15:41:

Bonjour , les jetés de chaque coté de A2 doivent -ils former un trou après les avoir tricotés ? merci d'avance

DROPS Design 04.05.2019 kl. 16:39:

Bonjour Berengere. Au rang suivant, Vous tricotez les jetés torse à l’endroit. Aucun trou n’est formé. Bon tricot!

Renata 23.04.2019 - 12:46:

Po zakończeniu karczku mam zamknąć po 3 oczka ponad każdym warkoczem, które dokładnie są to oczka w schemacie A2?

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 20:23:

Witaj Renato! Nie ma to znaczenia: ja przerobiłabym razem na prawo 2-gie i 3-cie, 4-te i 5-te oraz 6-te i 7-me oczko (zamiast 8 o. warkocza zostanie ci 5 o.). Miłej pracy nad sweterkiem!

Lotta Hviden 05.04.2019 - 11:11:

Om jag stickar slätstickning från aviga så set ju det helt annorlunda ut än övriga koftan som är stickad i rätstickning. Jag undrar varför

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 14:37:

Hei Lotta. Ja, ermene blir annerledes enn resten av jakken. Det er selvfølgeligikke noe i veien for at du også strikker ermne i rettstrikknin, om du ønsker det. Vær da obs på at du da må strikke fler omganger i høyden. God forøyelse

Lotta Hviden 31.03.2019 - 10:27:

Varför stickas det rätstickning på ok, bak å framstycket, men slätstickning från avigan på ärmarna från ärmhålen och ned? Får inte det att gå ihop riktigt

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 10:56:

Hej Det är för att det är enklare att sticka runt i slätstickning och vända armen efter. Om du tycker att det är lika enkelt att sticka runt i rätstickning från rätsidan istället kan du självklart göra det istället. Lycka till!

Mia Svensson 17.11.2018 - 22:11:

Kan jag ersätta med Drops Alpaca?

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 11:43:

Hei Mia. Alpaca og KId Silk tilhører begge garngruppe A, og skal derfor ha samme strikkefasthet. Så i utgangspunktet skal du helt fint kunne strikke denne i Alpaca. Jeg anbefaler likevel at du lager deg en liten prøvelapp for å forsikre deg om at strikkefastheten blir overholdt. God fornøyelse.

Isambert 27.10.2018 - 14:48:

Pour les boutonnières, il faut faire des mailles envers et non endroit car la bordure se fait au point mousse envers

Anne Kathrine Steen 16.09.2018 - 10:19:

Er garnmengden riktig? Virker veldig lite.

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 08:16:

Hei Anne Kathrine. Ja, garnmengden stemmer. Kid-Silk kommer i 25 g nøster, så du trenger 5-5-6-6-7-8 nøster til denne gensern. Hvert nøste har en løpelengde på ca 200 meter (som er en del lenger enn andre garn i samme garngruppe). Det er viktig at strikkefastheten blir overholdt, ellers kan det ha innvirkning på garnforbruket. God fornøyelse.

Els Verheyen 03.08.2018 - 22:14:

Zeer mooi en elegant

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