DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 3.45 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Steingard Set

Knitted hat in DROPS Puna. The piece is worked with Nordic pattern and pom pom. Knitted wrist warmers in DROPS Puna. The piece is worked with Nordic pattern.

DROPS 195-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no pu-033
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR THE WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 07, light grey
50-50 g colour 06, grey
50-50 g colour 05, dark grey
50-50 g colour 08, black
50-50 g colour 01, off white

YARN FOR HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50 g colour 07, light grey
50-50 g colour 06, grey
50-50 g colour 05, dark grey
50-50 g colour 08, black
50-50 g colour 01, off white

YARN FOR WRIST WARMER:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Measurements: Length: approx. 19-21 cm. Circumference: approx. 18-22 cm.
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50 g colour 07, light grey
50-50 g colour 06, grey
50-50 g colour 05, dark grey
50-50 g colour 08, black
50-50 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

WRIST WARMERS:

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 3.45 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Hat: See diagram A.1.
Wrist warmer: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

DECREASE TIP (for top of hat):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for thumb gusset):
The whole of the thumb gusset is worked with light grey. Work as far as the stitch with the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The next time you increase, work as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 3, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Continue the increases like this, i.e. you always increase on the outside of the increased stitches. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 108-114 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and grey. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4-2 stitches evenly on round = 104-112 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 in the round (= 13-14 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed, continue with stocking stitch and light grey.
When the piece measures 21-23 cm from the cast-on edge, insert 8 marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted at the beginning of the round. The next 7 marker threads are inserted with 13-14 stitches between each one.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch before each of the 8 marker threads - read DECREASE TIP = 8 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 5 times and then every round a total of 4 times = 32-40 stitches left. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 16-20 stitches left. Knit 1 round without decreasing. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 again = 8-10 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-28 cm from the top down.

POM POM:
Make a pom pom of dark grey and approx. 3-4 cm in diameter and fasten it to the top of the hat.

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WRIST WARMER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, bottom up. The thumb is worked in the round with double pointed needles.

RIGHT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 45-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and grey. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 2 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 5-6 stitches evenly on round (knit each 8th and 9th stitch together) = 40-48 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.2 in the round (= 5-6 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been completed the piece measures approx. 10 cm from the cast-on edge. Continue with stocking stitch and light grey. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-11 cm insert 1 marker in the first stitch at the beginning of the round. On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker - read INCREASE TIP = 2 stitches increased. Increase like this every 3rd round a total of 4-5 times = 48-58 stitches. After the last increase the piece measures approx. 13-15 cm. Continue working without increasing until the piece measures 15-16 cm. Place the 9-11 thumb-gusset stitches on a thread. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light grey and in addition cast on 1 new stitch on the needle behind the thumb = 40-48 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 16-18 cm (there is now 3 cm left to finished length – you can try the wrist warmer on and work on to desired length). Work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been completed, knit 1 round with grey where you increase 5-6 stitches evenly on round (make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes) = 45-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The wrist warmer measures approx. 19-21 cm from top down.

THUMB:
Place the 9-11 stitches from the thread back onto double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit up 6-7 new stitches at the back of the thumb with light grey = 15-18 stitches. Work 3-4 rounds of stocking stitch, but make sure the thumb is not worked too tightly. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm (or to desired length). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 45-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and grey. Work rib in the round (= purl 2 / knit 1) for 2 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 5-6 stitches evenly on round (knit each 8th and 9th stitch together) = 40-48 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.2 in the round (= 5-6 repeats of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been worked, the piece measures 10 cm from the cast-on edge. Continue with stocking stitch and light grey. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-11 cm insert 1 marker in the last stitch of the round. On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker - read INCREASE TIP = 2 stitches increased. Increase like this every 3rd round a total of 4-5 times = 48-58 stitches. After the last increase the piece measures approx. 13-15 cm. Continue working without increasing until the piece measures 15-16 cm. Place the 9-11 thumb-gusset stitches on a thread. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light grey and in addition cast on 1 new stitch on the needle behind the thumb = 40-48 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 16-18 cm (there is now 3 cm left to finished length – you can try the wrist warmer on and work on to desired length). Work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been completed, knit 1 round with grey where you increase 5-6 stitches evenly on round (make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes) = 45-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= purl 2 / knit 1) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The wrist warmer measures approx. 19-21 cm from top down.
Work thumb in the same way as for the right wrist warmer.

Diagram

symbols = dark grey
symbols = black
symbols = light grey
symbols = off white
symbols = grey
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 195-8

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Silvia wrote:

En el pulgar se aumentan 8 p nos quedamos con 48, no puede ser q dejemos en espera para el pulgar9p, y nos quedemos para seguir tejiendo con 40

14.11.2022 - 21:31

country flag Ornella wrote:

Ho realizzato il maglione steingard per mia nipote, bellissimo!La mia domanda è perché per il maglione consigliate i ferri nr. 3.5 per le coste e 4 per il resto mentre per il cappello 3 e 3.5? Grazie

18.03.2021 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Ornella, il cappello ha una struttura più sostenuta, quindi serve una trama più fitta. Buon lavoro!

19.03.2021 - 23:07

country flag Monteuuis wrote:

Bonjour peut-on acheter un bonnet déjà tricoté car ils sont magnifiques ! merci de me renseigner.

22.11.2019 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Monteuuis, nous ne proposons que les explications des modèles, vous pouvez toutefois poser la question aux magasins DROPS ou sur le groupe DROPS Workshop. Merci!

22.11.2019 - 13:24

country flag Alice wrote:

Is there also a pattern for the beautiful scarf? Thank you.

04.08.2019 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alice! This scarf is not knitted :( Browse all our patterns by category HERE. I hope you will find something suitable for you. Happy knitting!

05.08.2019 - 08:32

country flag Christina H wrote:

Hej Diagrammen på mönstren har fallit bort från sidan. Med vänlig hälsning, Christina H

20.10.2018 - 14:47

country flag Mona Lind wrote:

Jag ska sticka mössan men hittar inte antal maskor som ska läggas upp, hur lång den blir, samt hoptagningsvarv. Jag saknar helt enkelt en beskrivning. Vore tacksam om ni snarast kan ge mig en beskrivning. Tack på förhand!

24.09.2018 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mona. Her hadde det skjedd en glipp, så informasjonen til oppskriften hadde blitt lastet opp 2 ganger. Dette er nå fikset og selve oppskriften skal være tilgjengelig. Takk for beskjed, og god fornøyelse.

25.09.2018 - 08:10

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Re bonjour, merci d’avoir bien répondu à ma question j’ai bien compris toute fois j’aimerais savoir sur le jacquard quand je tricote et je fais le motifs et je commence avec une nouvelle couleurs comment je fais pour joindre car ma couleur primaire ne suis plus ?? J’espre Que je me fais comprendre ses pas évident d’expliquer. Merci à l’avance

05.09.2018 - 02:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter le jacquard. Quand une couleur n'est plus tricotée sur quelques rangs (ex le gris foncé), vous pouvez la faire suivre en hauteur (sur l'envers), reprenez-la ensuite quand vous en avez besoin, en veillant à ne pas trop serrer le fil pour ne pas resserrer le motif en hauteur. Bon tricot!

05.09.2018 - 08:51

country flag Boucher wrote:

Pour le bonnet quand vous dite tricoter A1 en rond 14 motifs de 8 mailles sa veux tu dire que mes 112 mailles je répète mes 8 mailles dû motifs jusqu’au bout du rang et ainsi de suite? Et placer 8 fils marqueurs à 23 cm? Je comprends pas 8 fils

27.08.2018 - 23:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boucher, vous allez effectivement répéter 14 fois les 8 mailles du diagramme (vous pouvez placer un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour bien vous repérer). Ensuite, à 23 cm, vous placez des fils marqueurs (voir ici) ainsi: le 1er au début du tour, *comptez 13 m, placez 1 marqueur*, repétez de *-* jusqu'à la fin du tour. Bon tricot!

04.09.2018 - 13:27

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Pour le bonnet quand vous dite tricoter A1 en rond 14 motifs de 8 mailles sa veux tu dire que mes 112 mailles je répète mes 8 mailles dû motifs jusqu’au bout du rang et ainsi de suite? Et placer 8 fils marqueurs à 23 cm? Je comprends pas 8 fils

27.08.2018 - 03:57

country flag Nathalie wrote:

J’adore le modèle de tuque et les chauffe mains très hâte d’avoir le patron ....

12.07.2018 - 02:28