DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Nordic Romance

Knitted shawl in DROPS Nord. The piece is worked top down with garter stitch, mosaic pattern and wave pattern.

DROPS 195-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no-014
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Height measured along mid-stitch: approx. 64 cm. Length measured along top edge: approx. 190 cm.
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g colour 05, grey
150 g colour 01, off white
50 g colour 03, pearl grey
50 g colour 06, dark grey
50 g colour 18, goldenrod

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch and mosaic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE IN ONE-COLOURED GARTER STITCH SECTION:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Each row in the diagrams is equivalent to one row worked. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 261 stitches), minus the mid-stitch (= 1 stitch) and divide the remaining stitches by 2 = 130 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch. Then divide 130 stitches by the number of increases to be made before/after the mid-stitch (e.g. 3) = 43.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 43rd stitch before the mid-stitch. Increase in the same way after the mid-stitch. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
So that the cast-off edge is not tight you can make 1 yarn over AT THE SAME TIME as casting off. Make 1 yarn over above all the yarn overs from the previous row, the yarn overs are then cast off as normal stitches. Make sure that you do not tighten the strand while casting off.
If the cast-off edge is still tight, you can cast off with a size larger needle.

MOSAIC PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 to A.11 and read description of the technique below.
Each row in these diagrams is equivalent to 2 rows worked. I.e. from the right side the diagram is worked from right to left with increases as shown in the diagrams and from the wrong side you work the same row from left to right, but without the increases (i.e. increases are only done from the right side).

On all rows from the right side, keep the strand at the back of the piece (i.e. on the wrong side) when a stitch is slipped.
On all rows from the wrong side, keep the strand in front of the piece (i.e. towards you and still on the wrong side) when a stitch is slipped.
Make sure the strands are not tight at the back of the piece!

To keep track of the pattern, you can insert a marker between each pattern-repeat on A.4B/A.5B.

A.3, A.6 and A.9 = start-stitch and end-stitch. This stitch is worked in the colour shown by the symbol, AT THE SAME TIME the symbol tells you how the pattern row is worked in A.X, A.Y and A.Z.
A.X, A.Y and A.Z are sections which show the rows the mosaic pattern is worked on.
On the other rows in A.4/A.5, A.7/A.8 and A.10/A.11 (i.e. the one-coloured rows) you work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches without slipping stitches (mid-stitch always worked in stocking stitch).

SECTION A.X:
On each row of the pattern in A.3 which has a square with a small, black square inside (i.e. colour A), all stitches with colour A in A.4 and A.5 are knitted and all stitches with colour B are slipped.
On each row of pattern in A.3 which has a square with an empty star inside (colour B), all stitches with colour B in A.4 and A.5 are knitted and all stitches with colour A are slipped.

SECTION A.Y:
On each row of pattern in A.6 which has a square with a small, black diamond inside (i.e. colour C), all stitches with colour C in A.7 and A.8 are knitted and all stitches with colour D are slipped.
On each row of pattern in A.6 which has a square with a small, horizontal line inside (colour D), all stitches with colour D in A.7 and A.8 are knitted and all stitches with colour C are slipped.

SECTION A.Z:
On this row of pattern in A.9 which starts with a square with a diagonal line inside (i.e. colour E), all stitches with colour E in A.10 and A.11 are knitted and all stitches with colour A are slipped.

WAVE PATTERN:
See diagrams A.12 and A.13. Each row is equivalent to 1 row worked. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle (so that you have room for all stitches) and worked top down.
Always increase 1 stitch on each side of the mid-stitch and 2 stitches in each side of each row from the right side as described in the text (= 6 stitches increased on each increase row).
At the beginning of the shawl a section is worked in one-colour garter stitch. Then you work mosaic pattern. To finish an edge is worked in wave pattern.
It is important to follow the diagrams carefully.
The mosaic pattern itself is worked in garter stitch, but the pattern is not worked in normal garter stitch - it is made by by slipping stitches. Read description for Mosaic pattern before working it. Be aware that each row in the diagrams for the mosaic pattern (A.3 to A.11) is equivalent to 1 ridge (i.e. 2 rows). In the other diagrams (A.1, A.2, A.12 and A.13) 1 row in the diagram = 1 row worked.

SHAWL:
Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and grey. The first 2 rows are worked as follows: 
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch = 9 stitches on needle.
Then work A.1 and A.2 as follows: Work A.1 over the first 4 stitches, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in stocking stitch to finished length, irrespective of how the other stitches are worked), work A.2 over the last 4 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue working and increasing as shown in A.1 and A.2 until you have worked a total of 43 ridges after the cast-on edge = 261 stitches on the needle. Work 1 more ridge with grey and increases in each side and in the middle as before, in addition increase 6 stitches evenly on row, i.e. increase 3 stitches before and 3 stitches after the mid-stitch - read INCREASE TIP. You have now worked a total of 44 ridges and there are 273 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 19 cm from the middle out – measured in the knitting direction.
Continue with MOSAIC PATTERN – read description above, i.e. the first row is from the right side as follows: Work A.3 (= 1 stitch), A.4A over 2 stitches, A.4B over the next 132 stitches (= 33 repeats of 4 stitches), work A.4C over 1 stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in the background colour of the pattern stripe), work A.5A over 1 stitch, A.5B over the next 132 stitches (= 33 repeats of 4 stitches), work A.5C over 2 stitches and finish with A.3 (= 1 stitch).
Continue this pattern, but remember that 1 row in each of these diagrams is equivalent to 1 ridge (2 rows). Make sure the strands at the back are not tight.
When A.3, A.4 and A.5 have been completed in height there are 363 stitches on the needle.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.6 (= 1 stitch), A.7A over 2 stitches, A.7B over the next 174 stitches (= 29 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.7C over 4 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in the background colour of the pattern stripe), work A.8A over 4 stitches, A.8B over the next 174 stitches (= 29 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.8C over 2 stitches and finish with A.6 (= 1 stitch). When A.6, A.7 and A.8 have been completed in height there are 465 stitches on the needle.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.9 (= 1 stitch), A.10A over 2 stitches, A.10B over the next 228 stitches (= 114 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.10C over 1 stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in the background colour of the pattern stripe), work A.11A over 1 stitch, A.11B over the next 228 stitches (= 114 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.11C over 2 stitches and finish with A.9 (= 1 stitch). When A.9, A.10 and A.11 have been completed in height there are 519 stitches on the needle.
Continue with pearl grey and knit 2 rows where you increase 16 stitches evenly on the first row, i.e. the increases in sides and middle continue as before, in addition increase 8 stitches evenly both before and after the mid-stitch = 541 stitches on needle.
Change to off white and work WAVE PATTERN – read description above, i.e. the first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.12A over 4 stitches, A.12B over the next 260 stitches (= 20 repeats of 13 stitches), work A.12C over 6 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), work A.13A over 6 stitches, A.12B over the next 260 stitches (= 20 repeats of 13 stitches) and finish with A.13C over the last 4 stitches. When the wave pattern is finished there are 773 stitches on the needle.
Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches with increases in the sides and on each side of the mid-stitch as before = 785 stitches on the needle. Read CASTING-OFF TIP and cast off with knit from the right side. Cut and fasten the strands.

SHAPING:
Dampen the piece and carefully lay out in the right shape. Allow to dry. Repeat the process each time the shawl is washed.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs; on the next row, knit or purl the first yarn over as shown in diagram and drop the second yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row knit or purl the yarn over twisted as shown in the diagram (there should not be a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = this square has no stitch, go straight to the next symbol in the diagram
symbols = Colour A - dark grey
symbols = Colour B - goldenrod
symbols = Colour C - off white
symbols = Colour D - grey
symbols = Colour E - pearl grey
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (59)

country flag Patricia THIOT wrote:

J'ai oublié un mot dans ma question 🤔 j'ai fais aussi les 2 rangs en jaune et je dois intégrer le gris foncé... Je suis sur le devant de l'ouvrage...

16.10.2019 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thiot, cette vidéo montre pour un autre modèle et donc un autre diagramme, comment on doit tricoter les mailles dans un point mosaïque sur l'endroit et sur l'envers (sans les augmentations, faites-les dans la couleur des mailles du rang). Bon tricot!

17.10.2019 - 09:15

country flag Patricia THIOT wrote:

Bonjour, tout d'abord merci pour votre site que je trouve très sympa avec des explications très claires sauf sur ce modèle, je ne comprends pas bien. Je viens de faire mes 2 rangs mousse en gris perle et aussi les 2 rangs mousse et je dois intégrer le gris foncé. La 1ere maille est gris foncé (un carré noir) et ensuite doublé jetée mais en quelle couleur ? Pareil pour le milieu du châle avec les autres jetées...

16.10.2019 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thiot, dansn A.3-A.4-A.5, vous commencez le point mosaïque (= 6ème rang du diagramme) en gris foncé (= 1ère m de A.3), vous glissez toutes les mailles avec une étoile et tricotez uniquement celles marquées en gris foncé, les jetés se font donc en gris foncé, et seront tricotés en gris foncé sur l'envers. Au rang suivant sur l'endroit, vous tricotez en jaune d'or uniquement les mailles avec une étoile, glissez les autres mailles, les jetés se font sur l'endroit en jaune d'or et se tricotent en jaune d'or sur l'envers; et ainsi de suite, en fonction de la couleur de A.3. Bon tricot!

17.10.2019 - 09:14

country flag Tine wrote:

Ik begrijp 2 dingen niet 1) hoe maak ik de meerderingen in de eerste rij van het mozaïekpatroon? ze staan tussen gele (afgehaalde) steken, neem ik dan een lus op tussen de afgehaalde steen en brei ik ze teruggaand met antraciet? 2) de eerste rij mozaïekpatroon brei ik met antraciet, de tweede rij met oker dus dan haal ik de antraciet steken af, maar op die rij zijn er meer donkere dan gele steken, dus die kan ik toch niet afhalen? in de video komt dit niet voor dus helpt niet

20.09.2019 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tine,

De meerderingen zijn verwerkt in het telpatroon in de vorm van omslagen Dus niet de lus opnmen tussen de afgehaalde steken. De meerderingen worden aangegeven met een staand ovaal symbool tussen 2 steken. Bij een open ovaal maak je 2 omslageen en op de volgende naald brei je 1 omslag en laat je de nadere vallen. Let erop dat de telpatronen anders zijn dan normaal; elke naald in deze telpatronen staat gelijk aan 2 gebreide naalden. (Zie uitleg bovenaan bij 'MOZAÏEKPATROON)

23.09.2019 - 10:29

country flag Helene Klippenstein wrote:

Liebes Anleitungsteam! Ich habe eine Frage zum Bereich A.X. Zuerst stricke ich in dunkel Grau und hebe die Maschen in Ocker nur ab. Bei der nächsten Reiche stricke ich in Ocker, aber wie kann ich die Masche von der unteren Reihe in dunkel Grau abheben, wenn da Ocker ist? Liebe Grüße

07.09.2019 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Klippenstein, bei A.X stricken Sie nur die maschen mit der Farben in A.X gezeigt, dh, Sie stricken zuerst nur die Maschen mit dunkel grau, dann stricken Sie nur die Maschen mit ocker gezeichnet (die anderen Maschen im dunkel grau im diagram sollen abgehoben werden, auch wenn Sie früher mit Oker gestrickt waren). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.09.2019 - 08:24

country flag Anders Baste Revheim wrote:

I diagrammene med mosaikk-mønster, hvilken farge skal det være på kastene i A.X-A.Y-A.Z? Erfaringen min er at med bunnfargen som kast, ser det ikke pent ut. Har dere i tillegg noen gode tips til å feste de løse trådene?

11.06.2019 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anders. Jeg ville nok strikket kastene i A.x og A.z i hovedfargen på den gjeldene rad (altså samme farge som masken(e) ved siden av). I A.y kan kastene gjøres med bunnfargen = farge D grå. Om du syntes dette blir mindre fint kan du selvfølgelig lage kastene med mønsterfarge. Du kan strikke deg en prøvelapp og se hva du syntes blir finest. Trådene kan festes på vanlig måte, som vist i videoen her: . God fornøyelse

12.06.2019 - 08:36

country flag Regina wrote:

I mosaikstickningen A. X. Vilket garn ska omslagen göras i?

10.05.2019 - 07:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Regina, Se här hur man stickar mosaikmönster:

How to work a mosaic pattern from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

13.05.2019 - 09:08

country flag Lena wrote:

Vedrørende aflukningstips. Der skrives at man laver omslag over omslagene fra forrige pind - menes der at der laves omslag mellem alle masker - som en af jeres instruktionsvideoer viser - eller kun over de ekstra masker man laver - 2 i start af pind, 1 før og efter midtermasken samt 2 til sidst på retpinden. På forhånd tak for hjælpen.

22.04.2019 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena. Lag kast på samme sted som siste pinne i diagram A.12 og A.13 - hullmønsteret. God fornøyelse

30.04.2019 - 14:57

country flag Henna wrote:

En osannut ohjeen mukaisesti tehda mosaiikkikuvion silmukoita jotka nostetaan neulomatta. Luin ohjeen monesti enka ymmartanyt. Muutoin ohje selkea.

24.03.2019 - 07:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, lähin DROPS käsityöliike pystyy auttamaan sinua paikan päällä.

11.04.2019 - 17:15

country flag Carmen wrote:

Puedo yo hacer este Chal en redondo ? Quiero decir que no caiga en pico la parte de atrás. Un saludo. Carmen

23.03.2019 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carmen. Para trabajar este chal en forma de medialuna tienes que modificar el diagrama. Mira en nuestra colección de chales para tomar referencia.

24.03.2019 - 20:36

country flag Claire wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse, mais je crois que je ne comprends toujours pas, désolée. Cela veut-il dire que au rang 7, par exemple, dans le diagramme A4B, on doit tricoter une maille jaune, glisser une maille jaune, puis glisser une maille grise, puis glisser une maille jaune à nouveau ? En effet je ne vois pas comment glisser trois mailles jaunes quand j'ai des mailles grises au rang précédent. Ou alors est-ce que j'ai mal compris le rang précédent ? Merci d'avance

13.03.2019 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, dans A.4B, vous tricotez 1 m jaune (= étoile) et glissez les 3 m suivantes sans les tricoter (= comme dans A.4A). Bon tricot!

14.03.2019 - 09:44