DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Nordic Romance

Knitted shawl in DROPS Nord. The piece is worked top down with garter stitch, mosaic pattern and wave pattern.

DROPS 195-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no-014
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Height measured along mid-stitch: approx. 64 cm. Length measured along top edge: approx. 190 cm.
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g colour 05, grey
150 g colour 01, off white
50 g colour 03, pearl grey
50 g colour 06, dark grey
50 g colour 18, goldenrod

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch and mosaic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE IN ONE-COLOURED GARTER STITCH SECTION:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Each row in the diagrams is equivalent to one row worked. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 261 stitches), minus the mid-stitch (= 1 stitch) and divide the remaining stitches by 2 = 130 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch. Then divide 130 stitches by the number of increases to be made before/after the mid-stitch (e.g. 3) = 43.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 43rd stitch before the mid-stitch. Increase in the same way after the mid-stitch. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
So that the cast-off edge is not tight you can make 1 yarn over AT THE SAME TIME as casting off. Make 1 yarn over above all the yarn overs from the previous row, the yarn overs are then cast off as normal stitches. Make sure that you do not tighten the strand while casting off.
If the cast-off edge is still tight, you can cast off with a size larger needle.

MOSAIC PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 to A.11 and read description of the technique below.
Each row in these diagrams is equivalent to 2 rows worked. I.e. from the right side the diagram is worked from right to left with increases as shown in the diagrams and from the wrong side you work the same row from left to right, but without the increases (i.e. increases are only done from the right side).

On all rows from the right side, keep the strand at the back of the piece (i.e. on the wrong side) when a stitch is slipped.
On all rows from the wrong side, keep the strand in front of the piece (i.e. towards you and still on the wrong side) when a stitch is slipped.
Make sure the strands are not tight at the back of the piece!

To keep track of the pattern, you can insert a marker between each pattern-repeat on A.4B/A.5B.

A.3, A.6 and A.9 = start-stitch and end-stitch. This stitch is worked in the colour shown by the symbol, AT THE SAME TIME the symbol tells you how the pattern row is worked in A.X, A.Y and A.Z.
A.X, A.Y and A.Z are sections which show the rows the mosaic pattern is worked on.
On the other rows in A.4/A.5, A.7/A.8 and A.10/A.11 (i.e. the one-coloured rows) you work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches without slipping stitches (mid-stitch always worked in stocking stitch).

SECTION A.X:
On each row of the pattern in A.3 which has a square with a small, black square inside (i.e. colour A), all stitches with colour A in A.4 and A.5 are knitted and all stitches with colour B are slipped.
On each row of pattern in A.3 which has a square with an empty star inside (colour B), all stitches with colour B in A.4 and A.5 are knitted and all stitches with colour A are slipped.

SECTION A.Y:
On each row of pattern in A.6 which has a square with a small, black diamond inside (i.e. colour C), all stitches with colour C in A.7 and A.8 are knitted and all stitches with colour D are slipped.
On each row of pattern in A.6 which has a square with a small, horizontal line inside (colour D), all stitches with colour D in A.7 and A.8 are knitted and all stitches with colour C are slipped.

SECTION A.Z:
On this row of pattern in A.9 which starts with a square with a diagonal line inside (i.e. colour E), all stitches with colour E in A.10 and A.11 are knitted and all stitches with colour A are slipped.

WAVE PATTERN:
See diagrams A.12 and A.13. Each row is equivalent to 1 row worked. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle (so that you have room for all stitches) and worked top down.
Always increase 1 stitch on each side of the mid-stitch and 2 stitches in each side of each row from the right side as described in the text (= 6 stitches increased on each increase row).
At the beginning of the shawl a section is worked in one-colour garter stitch. Then you work mosaic pattern. To finish an edge is worked in wave pattern.
It is important to follow the diagrams carefully.
The mosaic pattern itself is worked in garter stitch, but the pattern is not worked in normal garter stitch - it is made by by slipping stitches. Read description for Mosaic pattern before working it. Be aware that each row in the diagrams for the mosaic pattern (A.3 to A.11) is equivalent to 1 ridge (i.e. 2 rows). In the other diagrams (A.1, A.2, A.12 and A.13) 1 row in the diagram = 1 row worked.

SHAWL:
Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and grey. The first 2 rows are worked as follows: 
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch = 9 stitches on needle.
Then work A.1 and A.2 as follows: Work A.1 over the first 4 stitches, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in stocking stitch to finished length, irrespective of how the other stitches are worked), work A.2 over the last 4 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue working and increasing as shown in A.1 and A.2 until you have worked a total of 43 ridges after the cast-on edge = 261 stitches on the needle. Work 1 more ridge with grey and increases in each side and in the middle as before, in addition increase 6 stitches evenly on row, i.e. increase 3 stitches before and 3 stitches after the mid-stitch - read INCREASE TIP. You have now worked a total of 44 ridges and there are 273 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 19 cm from the middle out – measured in the knitting direction.
Continue with MOSAIC PATTERN – read description above, i.e. the first row is from the right side as follows: Work A.3 (= 1 stitch), A.4A over 2 stitches, A.4B over the next 132 stitches (= 33 repeats of 4 stitches), work A.4C over 1 stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in the background colour of the pattern stripe), work A.5A over 1 stitch, A.5B over the next 132 stitches (= 33 repeats of 4 stitches), work A.5C over 2 stitches and finish with A.3 (= 1 stitch).
Continue this pattern, but remember that 1 row in each of these diagrams is equivalent to 1 ridge (2 rows). Make sure the strands at the back are not tight.
When A.3, A.4 and A.5 have been completed in height there are 363 stitches on the needle.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.6 (= 1 stitch), A.7A over 2 stitches, A.7B over the next 174 stitches (= 29 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.7C over 4 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in the background colour of the pattern stripe), work A.8A over 4 stitches, A.8B over the next 174 stitches (= 29 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.8C over 2 stitches and finish with A.6 (= 1 stitch). When A.6, A.7 and A.8 have been completed in height there are 465 stitches on the needle.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.9 (= 1 stitch), A.10A over 2 stitches, A.10B over the next 228 stitches (= 114 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.10C over 1 stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch – this stitch is worked in the background colour of the pattern stripe), work A.11A over 1 stitch, A.11B over the next 228 stitches (= 114 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.11C over 2 stitches and finish with A.9 (= 1 stitch). When A.9, A.10 and A.11 have been completed in height there are 519 stitches on the needle.
Continue with pearl grey and knit 2 rows where you increase 16 stitches evenly on the first row, i.e. the increases in sides and middle continue as before, in addition increase 8 stitches evenly both before and after the mid-stitch = 541 stitches on needle.
Change to off white and work WAVE PATTERN – read description above, i.e. the first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.12A over 4 stitches, A.12B over the next 260 stitches (= 20 repeats of 13 stitches), work A.12C over 6 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), work A.13A over 6 stitches, A.12B over the next 260 stitches (= 20 repeats of 13 stitches) and finish with A.13C over the last 4 stitches. When the wave pattern is finished there are 773 stitches on the needle.
Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches with increases in the sides and on each side of the mid-stitch as before = 785 stitches on the needle. Read CASTING-OFF TIP and cast off with knit from the right side. Cut and fasten the strands.

SHAPING:
Dampen the piece and carefully lay out in the right shape. Allow to dry. Repeat the process each time the shawl is washed.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs; on the next row, knit or purl the first yarn over as shown in diagram and drop the second yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row knit or purl the yarn over twisted as shown in the diagram (there should not be a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = this square has no stitch, go straight to the next symbol in the diagram
symbols = Colour A - dark grey
symbols = Colour B - goldenrod
symbols = Colour C - off white
symbols = Colour D - grey
symbols = Colour E - pearl grey
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (59)

country flag RoseMarie wrote:

Kanten där jag byter färgerna blir väldigt ful, kan någon ge mig tips om hur jag bäst räddar/döljer detta.

23.09.2020 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej RoseMarie, se her hvordan du strikker kanterne i mønster: stickat - ränder - diagram

24.09.2020 - 15:50

country flag Mariann wrote:

Stemmer det at det på retten hele veien økes tilsammen 6 masker? To på midten og to i hver ende? Jeg ender opp m altfor mange masker på denne måten

26.08.2020 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mariann. Usikker på hvorfor du får for mange masker, men ja, det skal økes 6 masker på hver rad fra retten. Om du ser på diagram A.1 og A.2 starter du med 9 masker (A.1/4 masker + 3 kast + 1 midtmasken + A.2/4 masker + 3 kast = 15 masker), økt med 6 masker. Teller du 3. rad i diagrammene har du 7 masker + 3 kast + 1 midtmaske + 7 masker + 3 kast = 21 masker. I 5. rad er det 10 masker + 3 kast + 1 midtmaske + 10 masker + 3 kast = 27 masker osv. God Fornøyelse!

31.08.2020 - 14:14

country flag Nina Almeland wrote:

I oppskrift 195-5 så er det veldig dårlig forklart og uoversiktlige diagrammer. I A3, 4 og 5 omg 6 skal en strikke de mørke grå, og løfte av de i oker. Fra rettsiden skal det økes og ikke fra vrangen. På denne omgangen fra retten starter det med oker, hva skal en da strikke de økningene med? Løfte de av, eller strikkes med mørk grå? Dette burde vært forklart bedre under A. X. Sitter og har mest lyst å gi opp hele sjalet, men har lovet min mor dette.....

12.06.2020 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nina. Har du sett videoen om mosaikkmønster? Husk at når du strikker mosaikkmønster etter diagram viser en rad i diagrammet 2 pinner. Slik at du skal strikker 2 pinner av 4. pinne i A.3 - fra retten med grå og økninger, fra vrangen strikker du fremdeles med grått og økningen strikkes. På.5. pinne strikkes det med oker og økninger fra retten og fra vrangen fremdeles med øker og økningen strikkes. Økningene / kastene strikkes vridd rett slik at det ikke blir hull. God Fornøyelse!

22.06.2020 - 08:36

country flag Erik Andersen wrote:

Mønster A.X ,3. pind skal der løftes 3 grå masker løst af men der er kun en grå fra sidste pind. Hvad gør jeg?

01.04.2020 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Erik, har du set videoen med mosaikmønster Hvordan strikkes et mosaikmønster

16.04.2020 - 16:09

country flag Bodil Nordjore wrote:

Rapport A7 - A8

19.03.2020 - 13:52

country flag Bodil Nordjore wrote:

I sjal som heiter nordic, er det vrongt å forstå samanhengen i framdrifta med so mykje bokstavar og mønsterrapportar - litt klønete forklara. so undrar eg på korleis de meiner eg skal strikke mønsterrapp, med laus tråd framfor og likeeins rette og vrange. er det slik at tråden lyt fylgje laus på vronga med den seiste borden? veldig små og uoversiktelege mønster.mønster

16.03.2020 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bodil. Hvilken mønster rapport er det du ikke forstår, så skal vi prøve at forklare. God fornøjelse!

19.03.2020 - 13:48

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Bonsoir, lorsque j’ai terminé les 43 côtes de mousse, j’ai un total de 271 mailles et non de 261 mailles..... Je l’ai refait et je suis encore arrivée au même nombre de mailles..... Merci de votre aide. Jacqueline

13.01.2020 - 20:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jacqueline, avant de commencer les diagrammes vous avez 9 mailles, vous augmentez ensuite 42 fois (= 42 côtes mousse) 6 mailles soit 252 mailles au total + les 9 mailles du début = 261 mailles. Bon tricot!

14.01.2020 - 07:47

country flag Hava Gülmez wrote:

Hallo, ich wollte mal fragen wie man die Zunahmen im Mosaikmuster strickt?Mit welcher Farbe in der jeweiligen Reihe.Am Rand passt es bei mir mit dem Mosaikmuster nicht.Wenn ich z.B. mit Natur anfange,und alle Naturfarben rechts stricken muss und die grauen abhebe,mit welcher Farbe nehme ich zu bzw.stricke ich dann in der Rückreihe.Ich hoffe ich konnte meine Frage verdeutlichen.

18.12.2019 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Gülmez, die Zunahmen stricken Sie mit der Farben von der Randmaschen (= A.3, A.6, A.9), bei Hinreihen sowie Rückreihen stricken Sie nur die Quadraten mit der Farben von 1. Masche - siehe MOSAIKMUSTER. Haben Sie dieses Video geschaut? Das gestrickte Diagram ist für ein anderes Modell aber Technik ist dieselbe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.12.2019 - 07:55

country flag Patricia THIOT wrote:

Bonjour et merci pour votre réponse rapide mais cependant je rencontre encore un point d'interrogation... Si la 1ere maille est grise j'ai bien compris que les mailles jaunes seront glissées mais comment je dois faire lorsqu'il y a des jetées dans les jaunes sur ce même rang pareil sur le milieu et à la fin du rang ? Puisque je dois normalement ne prendre que le fils gris pour tricoter les mailles grises...

18.10.2019 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thiot, chacun des rangs du diagramme correspond à 2 rangs tricotés (= 1 côte mousse), sur l'endroit vous tricotez les mailles + les jetés avec la couleur de A.3, sur l'envers, vous tricotez les mailles + les jetés avec la même couleur (le rang sur l'envers se fait de la même façon, en glissant les mêmes mailles que sur l'endroit). Avez-vous regardé la vidéo proposée dans la réponse précédente? N'hésitez pas à vous entraîner sur un échantillon avant de commencer le diagramme sur le châle. Bon tricot!

18.10.2019 - 09:10

country flag Patricia THIOT wrote:

Si je comprends bien les mailles existantes jaunes doivent juste être bascules sur l'autre aiguille et ne tricoter que les mailles gris foncé... Si les jetées doivent être jaunes il faut que je passe le fils jaune tout du long de mon rang...? Merci d'avance...

16.10.2019 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thiot, tout à fait, quand on doit tricoter en gris foncé, on va glisser les mailles avec une étoile dans le diagramme sans les tricoter, on ne fait les jetés que là où ils sont indiqués dans le diagramme, quand on fait glisser des mailles sans les tricoter, on doit bien veiller que le fil de la couleur tricotée soit sur l'envers (pas trop serré pour éviter de serrer l'ouvrage, comme dans un jacquard). Regardez la vidéo ci-dessous, même avec un diagramme différent, elle devrait vous permettre de comprendre la technique. Bon tricot!

17.10.2019 - 09:17