DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Casual Diamond Jacket

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down in an angle with cables and texture. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 194-20
DROPS design: Pattern sk-013
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g color 13, denim blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 4.5 mm / US 7, length 80 cm/32" for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, length 80 cm/32" for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

DROPS BUTTON (uneven), NO 534: 5-5-6-6-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

ELEVATION:
Work the elevation in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker after 74-78-78-84-84-88 stitches in from mid front (= mid back). Begin from right side and knit 11-11-11-12-12-12 stitches past marker, turn, tighten yarn and knit 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-33-36-36-36, turn, tighten yarn and knit 44-44-44-48-48-48. Continue like this, i.e. by working 11-11-11-12-12-12 stitches more on every turn until 6 ridges in total have been worked. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit the rest of the row from right side. Knit 1 row from wrong side over all stitches.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. When A.a-diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.b-diagrams over A.a and repeat A.b vertically. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
While decreasing and increasing in diagram A.1b, A.3b, A.6b and A.7b, the number of stitches can vary according to this with 8 stitches, if decrease has been done.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 130 stitches), subtract band (= 12 stitches in total = 118 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 18) = 6.5. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 6th and 7th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work 3 stitches in 1 stitch stockinette stitch as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, 1 knit in same stitch (= 3 stitches = 2 stitches increased). Work the increased stitches in pattern A.2: Do not work yarn overs twisted on next row.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased in total).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 approx. 8½-8½-7½-7½-7-7 cm apart.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down in an angle down to armhole. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Continue body back and forth, before front and back piece are divided and finish each part separately.
Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 130-134-138-154-158-162 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Sky. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Knit 1 row and increase 18-22-18-14-10-14 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 148-156-156-168-168-176 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.
For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION. 
Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.
Now work as follows from right side:
Left front piece: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1a (= 6 stitches), work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, work 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, A.3a (= 13 stitches), A.4a (= 11 stitches).
Left sleeve: Work 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Back piece: Work A.5a (= 11 stitches), A.6a (= 13 stitches), 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, A.7a (= 10 stitches), work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, A.3a over 13 stitches, A.4a over 11 stitches.
Right sleeve: Work 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Right front piece: Work A.5a over 11 stitches, A.6a over 13 stitches, 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, A.1a over 6 stitches, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 4 stitches in garter stitch.
Marker must be in the piece until finished measurements (= increase stitches).
On next row from right side increase as follows:
Increase differently on sleeves and body.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.1a and A.3a to A.7a have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1b and A.3b to A.7b over A.1a and A.3a to A.6a. Continue A.2 as before.
All increases are done from the right side!
Body: Increase 2 stitches in each stitch with marker – read INCREASE TIP-2, every other row 8-9-13-15-19-22 times in total, then every 4th row 9-10-9-9-8-8 times in total (i.e. increase 2 stitches on each front piece and 4 stitches on back piece when increasing).
Sleeve: Increase with 1 yarn over after A.4 and before A.5 (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve) every other row 26-29-31-33-35-37 times in total. Do not work yarn over twisted on next row, it should make holes.
When all increases are done, there are 77-83-89-95-101-109 stitches in each front piece, 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches on each sleeve and 142-154-166-178-190-206 stitches on back piece = 412-448-480-516-548-588 stitches in total on row. Piece measures approx. 22-24-26-27-29-31 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8" from cast-on edge measured mid on top of sleeve.
On next row from right side divide the piece as follows:
Left front piece: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1b as before, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, A.3b and A.4b as before (= 29 stitches in total).
Left sleeve: Slip the next 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches.
Back piece: Work A.5b and A.6b as before (= 29 stitches in total), 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.7b as before, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, work A.3b and A.4b as before (= 29 stitches in total).
Right sleeve: Slip the next 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches.
Right front piece: Work A.5b and A.6b as before (= 29 stitches in total), 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1b as before, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch = 312-336-360-392-416-448 stitches (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches on each front piece and 150-162-174-190-202-218 stitches on back piece).
Now work body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
Now work as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work pattern as before, work stitches under each sleeve in stockinette stitch.
ROW 2 (= right side):
Left front piece: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1b as before, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch at marker = 2 stitches increased), work pattern as before until 5 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Back piece: Work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, knit 3 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased), work pattern as before until stitch with marker, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch with marker = 2 stitches increased), A.7b as before, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch with marker = 2 stitches increased), work pattern as before until 5 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Right front piece: Work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, knit 3 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased), work pattern as before until stitch with marker, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch with marker = 2 stitches increased), A.1b as before, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work pattern as before, work the increased stitches in A.2.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work pattern as before.
I.e. on every 4th row increase 8 stitches and decrease 8 stitches, i.e. number of stitches is the same but the pattern in the side is decreased and the pattern in A.2 increase.
Continue with pattern (when there is not enough stitches for a cable, stop the cables and continue in stockinette stitch over knitting stitch and purl over purl stitches).
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' in total measured from shoulder and down to tip.
Now divide piece on next row from right side as follows:
Left front piece: Work pattern as before until marker thread, then slip stitches on 1 stitch holder (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches place on 1st stitch holder).
Back piece: Work pattern as before over the next 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches (= half back piece), then slip them on 2nd stitch holder.
Work pattern as before until marker thread, then slip stitches on 1 stitch holder (= 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches place on 3rd stitch holder = back piece).
Right front piece: Work pattern as before the rest of row (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches).
Now finish each part separately, i.e. begin vent in the side here.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1b and 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, then slip them on 1 stitch holder (= 13 stitches) and work the rest of row = 68-74-80-88-94-102 stitches remain on needle. Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of front piece.
ROW 1 (= from right side): Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work pattern the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): bind off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before the rest of row (= 2 stitches bind off at beginning of row).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

EDGE (right front piece):
Work back and forth.
Pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along edge at the bottom from right side in outermost loop of edge stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and slip the 13 stitches from stitch holder mid front back on needle = approx. 58-62-66-70-76-80 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth. If the edge in garter stitch is tight at the bottom, pick up more stitches.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip stitches from 1st stitch holder back on circular needle (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches).
On 1st row (= from wrong side) work as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work pattern as before the rest of row. On next row from right side work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1b and 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, then slip them on 1 stitch holder (= 13 stitches), bind off the next 2 stitches and work the rest of row = 66-72-78-86-92-100 stitches remain on needle. Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of front piece.
ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Work pattern the rest of row as before.
ROW 2 (= from right side): bind off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch (= 3 stitches decreased in total).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

EDGE (left front piece):
Work back and forth.
Slip the 13 stitches from stitch holder mid front back on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along edge at the bottom from right side in outer loop of edge stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 = approx. 58-62-66-70-76-80 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth. If the edge in garter stitch is tight at the bottom, pick up more stitches.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Slip the 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches from 2nd stitch holder back on circular needle (= half back piece).
On 1st row (= from wrong side) work as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work pattern as before until 1 stitch in stockinette stitch remains and half A.7b, slip the last stitches on a stitch holder without working them = 68-74-80-88-94-102 stitches remain on needle. Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of back piece.
ROW 1 (= from right side): bind off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch (= 3 stitches decreased in total).
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Work pattern the rest of row as before.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Slip the 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches from 3rd stitch holder back on circular needle (= half back piece).
Slip the first stitches on a stitch holder (from wrong side): 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and half A.7b and work the rest of row = 68-74-80-88-94-102 stitches remain on needle.
Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of back piece.
ROW 1 (= from right side): Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work pattern the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): bind off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before the rest of row (= 2 stitches bind off at beginning of row).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

EDGE (back piece):
Work back and forth.
Pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along edge at the bottom from right side in outer loop of edge stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 until stitches from stitch holder (= approx. half back piece), slip stitches from stitch holder mid back back on needle and pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along the rest of back piece = approx. 104-112-120-128-140-148 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth. If the edge in garter stitch is tight at the bottom, pick up more stitches.

SLEEVE:
Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 66-72-76-86-90-94 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches (= mid under sleeve). Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from where sleeves was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1 cm/1"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-½"-3/8" 11-12-14-17-19-19 times in total = 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches.
When piece measures 37-36-34-33-32-30 cm / 14 ½"-14 1/8"-13 3/8"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾" from where sleeves were divide from body, switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work rib (= knit 2/2 stitches in garter stitch). Bind off by knitting when piece measures 41-40-38-37-36-34 cm / 16 1/8"-15 ¾"-14 7/8"-14 ½"-14 1/8"-13 3/8" from where sleeve was divided from body. Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons on left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row; it should NOTE make a hole
symbols = work 3 stitches, pass first stitch worked over the last 2 stitches so that this stitch is around the other two stitches (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Anette wrote:

Wenn ich nach dem Bündchen oben in einer Hinreihe mit dem Muster beginne, ist das doch das rechte Vorderteil! In der Anleitung ist vom linken Vorderteil die Rede. Wo liegt mein Denkfehler? Vielen Dank vorab schon für Ihre Antwort!

01.03.2023 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anette, die Jacke wird von oben nach unten gestrickt, so strickt man bei Hin-Reihen zuerst die Maschen vom linken Vorderteil, dann der linke Ärmel, das Rückenteil, der rechte Ärmel und das rechte Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.03.2023 - 10:44

country flag An Vermeulen wrote:

Waar kan ok een video vinden voor de raglanmouwen van damesvest Drops 194 T20 521 LESLIE

25.08.2022 - 09:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag An,

Er is niet speciaal voor dit vest een video gemaakt, maar er zijn wel video's gemaakt voor de verschillende technieken die in dit patroon gebruikt worden. Je vindt ze onderaan bij het patroon. Laat even weten waar je specifiek tegenaan loopt bij de raglan, zodat we kunnen kijken of we je daarbij kunnen helpen.

25.08.2022 - 11:27

country flag Mickan wrote:

Tycker det skulle varit enklare att följa mönsterrapporterna om de var skrivna i text. Ska man spegelvända mönsterrapporterna vid något tillfälle?

01.06.2022 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mickan, nej du skal "bare" følge diagrammerne, du behøver ikke spejlvende dem :)

02.06.2022 - 10:59

country flag Rita wrote:

Wie nehme ich die 8 Maschen unter dem Arm zu?

04.12.2021 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rita, das Bild 11) in dieser Lektion zeigt wie diese Maschen angeschlagen werden und wie man weiterstrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.12.2021 - 07:58

country flag Carine wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis à la séparation Devant gauche, Dos et Devant droit. Je vois que le dos est aussi séparé en deux (75 mailles en deux fois), y a-t-il une fente au milieu du dos? On ne voit pas le dos sur les photos. Merci

18.08.2021 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carine, on n'a pas de fente au milieu dos, mais pour conserver la bonne forme, on doit continuer chaque côté séparément en diminuant de chaque côté (parties en pointillés dans le schéma). Bon tricot!

18.08.2021 - 14:39

country flag Christine Ivory wrote:

Is there a photo showing the finished back? I'm unsure how it should look when completed.

21.05.2021 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ivory, we do not have any photo for the back piece, it looks almost like front piece but without the front band stitches/edges. Happy knitting!

21.05.2021 - 11:34

country flag Mickan wrote:

Koftan är fin. men mycket omständig läsning av mönsterpartierna. Stickar man från höger från rätsidan och från vänster från avigsidan, När man har gjort ökningar ? Dessutom om man väljer drops air som är ett mycket tunn spunnet garn är det inte lätt om man gör fel. Svårt att fånga upp maskor. Storlek M, Rapport A2 har 2 maskor och man ska sticka 3, hur stickar man dessa då från avigsidan?

18.03.2021 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mickan. Ja det stämmer att du stickar diagrammen från höger till vänster från rätsidan och från vänster till höger på avigsidan. När det står att du ska sticka 3 maskor av A.2 stickar du diagrammet 1 gång i sin helhet (2 maskor) och sedan stickar du 1:a maskan från höger från rätsidan och sedan motsvarande maskor från avigsidan. Mvh DROPS Design

24.03.2021 - 11:58

country flag Bernard Anne wrote:

Bonjour  J'ai essayé pleins de tuto mais le résultat n'est pas concluant. Il s'agit des augmentations qu'il faut faire dans la maille avec le marqueur. Augmentation2 dans les explications 

26.10.2020 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, pour l'augmentation 2 on tricote 3 fois la même maille: en faisant 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end dans la même m, vous allez donc augmenter 2 mailles et tricoter donc ces mailles en A.2 au rang suivant (si vous trouvez que ce jeté fait un trou, essayez de le tricoter torse) - (sur l'envers, lisez le diagramme de gauche à droite) - les mailles de A.2 + les augmentations doivent se suivre = vous devez toujours avoir alternativement 1 maille point mousse, 1 maille jersey. Essayez de tricoter un échantillon que de A.2 en faisant les augmentations de chaque côté pour bien comprendre comment vous devez les tricoter. Bonne continuation!

26.10.2020 - 11:59

country flag Bernard Anne wrote:

Bonjour je reviens vers vous car j'en suis toujours au même point.  Dans la vidéo elle tricote le jeté en torse alors que sur les explications on dit de ne pas tricoter les jetés torse au rang suivant! En plus ce qui me contrarie c'est que j'ai un trou. Donc quand j'aurai terminé mes augmentations il n'y aura plus le même motif. Que puis-je faire ? En attendant une réponse je vous remercie 

26.10.2020 - 09:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, certains jetés de ce modèle se tricotent torse (= 5ème symbole) et d'autres (= 4ème symbole) vont se tricoter normalement, tout va donc dépendre de quel niveau vous en êtes et de ce que vous devez faire. Le petit trou laissé par le jeté quand on augmente s'estompe bien souvent progressivement, si vous préférez utiliser une autre technique pour augmenter, n'hésitez pas, tester sur un échantillon vous permettra de mieux vous rendre compte du rendu et de choisir si besoin. En revanche, vous devez toujours tricoter les mailles comme indiqué, quelles augmentations vous posent problème?

26.10.2020 - 09:46

country flag Bernard wrote:

Merci de votre réponse mais pourquoi ma maille n'est pas pareille ? Par exemple la 1 dans le 1er marqueur est jolie elle est en Jersey mais la 2ème dans le 2ème n'est pas du tout pareille donc ce n'est pas jolie

28.09.2020 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter cette augmentation, avec une version du jeté tricoté torse - dans ce modèle, on ne tricote pas le jeté torse. Pour une assistance plus personnalisée, contactez votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, en voyant votre ouvrage, même en photo, ils pourront probablement plus facilement vous aider. Bon tricot!

28.09.2020 - 12:35