DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Morning Rain Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air or DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern and round yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 194-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-129
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g color 10, fog
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 05, brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 18, light gray green
Or use:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g color 8907, fog
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 0612, medium brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 0500, light gray

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9: length 80 cm/32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM / US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM / US 7: length 80 cm/32" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
All increases are made from the right side!
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 6.7. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 7th stitch. On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over the bands.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch. NOTE: Work the bands with the background color of the pattern stripe.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLE:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 8½-8½-9-8-8½-8½ cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The jacket is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-96-104 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and fog. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows – from the right side:
5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work rib like this for 2 cm / 3/4''. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. Then knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 11-15-19-19-7-7 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 95-103-111-115-103-111 stitches. Then work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/ US 9. Now work PATTERN – read description above, as follows – from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1a until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 21-23-25-26-23-25 repeats of 4 stitches), work A.1b (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern like this and increase as shown in the diagram. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.1a and A.1b have been worked as far as the row marked for your size, there are 263-287-311-323-333-361 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 26-28-29-31-33-35 cm / 10 ¼"-11"-11 3/8"-12 1/8"-13"-13 ¾" measured mid front from the cast-on edge. You can continue with the diagram if necessary, without more increases, until you reach the right length (after the last row, continue with fog).
Then continue with the next row in A.1a and A.1b (or with fog after the last row), the band stitches continued as before to finished length and work the next row as follows from the wrong side:
Work the first 43-46-49-52-55-59 stitches (= front piece), place the next
51-57-63-63-62-67 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-6-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 75-81-87-93-99-109 stitches (= back piece), place the next 51-57-63-63-62-67 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-6-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 43-46-49-52-55-59 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 173-185-197-209-233-251 stitches. Work until the whole of diagrams A.1a/A.1b are finished in height, then continue with stockinette stitch and fog; the band stitches in each side are worked as before. When the piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm / 11"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/8" from the division, purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 35-35-39-39-47-49 stitches evenly on row = 208-220-236-248-280-300 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work the next row as follows – from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work the rib like this for 3 cm / 1''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can cast of with needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. The jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the 51-57-63-63-62-67 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 57-63-69-69-74-79 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here; allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards. If you still have rounds left to work in A.1 for your size, continue working until both A.1a and A.1b have been completed in height, then work with fog and stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th-5th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round a total of 10-12-15-14-16-17 times = 37-39-39-41-42-45 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 37-35-35-33-32-30 cm / 14 ½"-13 ¾"-13 ¾"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾" from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 7-9-9-7-10-7 stitches evenly on round = 44-48-48-48-52-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib (=knit 2/ purl 2) for 3 cm / 1''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can bind off with a needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-38-36-35-33 cm / 15 ¾"-14 7/8"-14 7/8"-14 1/8"-13 ¾"-13" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = fog
symbols = light grey green or light grey
symbols = brown or medium brown
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour of the pattern-stripe; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Rosemary Newton wrote:

Re:194-7, I notice a difference in the photo of the pattern and the diagram: The photo shows an early introduction of light grey, but it doesn’t show until line 20 on the diagram. Also is there a written chart for the pattern? I have started this twice and am using Drops Air. When I increase the pattern of 12 stitches to 13 in the row each time it’s repeated, how do I maintain the pattern’s integrity?

22.08.2020 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Newton, read diagrams bottom up from the right towards the left from RS and from the left towards the left from WS, this means the rows with light grey will be worked on 5th + 6th rows in size S+M - 6th+7th in size L+XL + XXL + XXXL. The increases (= yarn overs in diagrams) are worked as shown on next row in diagram. You can add a marker after each diagram, this can help you to check your number of sts (from 4 sts on 1st row to 12 or 14 sts depending on your size). Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

24.08.2020 - 08:29

country flag Elvia McCormack wrote:

Thanks for responding to my earlier question. The pattern says increases are only on the right side. But if the chart is both right/wrong side, then I’ll be making increases on the wrong side which is contrary to what the pattern instructions for increases say. Could you please clarify? Thanks so much.

11.06.2019 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McCormack, when pattern says to increase evenly on a row, you will work increase from right side, but when working diagram, you will increase as shown in diagram, ie both from right side and from wrong side. Happy knitting!

12.06.2019 - 07:29

country flag Elvia McCormack wrote:

Good morning. Thank you for another beautiful pattern. I’m starting diagrams 1a and b. Is the diagram shown from right side only? What do you do for the purl side? Thanks.

11.06.2019 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McCormack, diagrams show all rows, ie RS as well as WS rows - read more here about diagrams. Happy knitting!

11.06.2019 - 13:01

country flag Tine wrote:

Om man skal øke på retten og strikke frm og tilbake så stemmer ikke diagrammet, da skal det økes på 2 omganger etter hverandre. Hva er riktig?

01.01.2019 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tine. Når du strikker etter diagram øker du ikke alltid fra retten, så dette stemmer. Om du sikter til ØKETIPS (der det står man skal øke fra retten) gjelder dette når du skal øke jevnt fordelt (slik du gjør på HALSKANTEN). Når du strikker etter diagram øker du som anvist, både fra retten og vrangen. God fornøyelse

02.01.2019 - 15:40

country flag Hanka wrote:

2.část: .Poté jedu zpět zleva doprava (rubovou stranu),upletu prvních pět ok légy,poté dle vz. A1b, upletu pouze to jedno,tj. šesté oko obrace a dále pokračuji už jen podle vz.A1a a střídám vzor už jen dle tohoto rozpisu?

06.10.2018 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Ano, v rubu musíte postupovat v opačném pořadí, než na lícové straně, aby jednotlivé vzory ležely nad sebou. Při pletení jednotlvých úseků vzoru už vás navede schéma. Hodně zdaru! Hana

08.10.2018 - 13:21

country flag Hanka wrote:

1.část: Svetr je nádherný,jsem ale začátečník při vyplétání norského vzoru.Sedlo: Začínám tedy od vz.A1a, zprava doleva,pletu hladce,po každém čtvrtém oku přidávám jedno oko a před šestým okem se řídím vz.A1b,tj. jedno oko upletu hladce (jsem na lícové straně) a posledních pět ok légy vroubkovým vzorem?

06.10.2018 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Hanko, ano je to přesně tak, jak píšete :-) Hodně zdaru! Hana

08.10.2018 - 13:19

country flag Caty wrote:

Bonjour, lorsque vous ne précisez pas que l'on peut faire une réhausse pour l'encolure dans vos explications, peut-on en faire une quand même? merci de votre réponse

26.08.2018 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Caty, si vous souhaitez que l'encolure dos soit légèrement plus haute que celle des devants, vous pouvez tout à fait tricoter une réhausse - elle n'est pas prévue dans ce modèle, mais vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle de même tension qui en propose une. Bon tricot!

05.09.2018 - 13:33

Ingunn Hrefnudóttir wrote:

There is no chest size , can u give me an estimate ? And if I only use tvo colors, is 50gr enough for the pattern

28.07.2018 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ingunn, Right at the bottom of the pattern you will find a diagram with all the sizes. Depending on your size, you will need 100g or 150 g of the colour for the pattern. Happy knitting!

30.07.2018 - 07:52

country flag Monique wrote:

Bitte Anleitung veröffentlichen! Eine tolle Jacke, die immer geht und die Farbkombination ist schön

13.07.2018 - 08:46