DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Waiting for Snow

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and texture. Size: S - XXXL Knitted head band in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted back and forth with cables.

DROPS 195-1
DROPS design: Pattern me-152
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Head circumference: 56/58 cm for all sizes.
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-750-800-850-950-1050 g colour 01, off white
Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g colour no 01, off white

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour 01, off white
Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 01, off white

YARN FOR HEAD BAND:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: 56/58 cm
Height: approx. 10 cm Circumference: approx. 51 cm
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g colour 01, off white
Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for jumper.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

HEAD BAND:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Accessories Headbands Aran Knitting bottom up cable double neck relief round neck saddle shoulder sewn in sleeves

UK
Ireland

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
Head band: See diagrams A.5 to A.7.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 240 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 26) = 9.2. In this example increase after approx. every 9th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease evenly in this example knit approx. every 8th and 9th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these two stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle up to armhole, then work front and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles up to armhole, then work shoulders back and forth. Then sew sleeves in armholes and shoulders on front and back piece.

BODY:
Cast on 214-230-246-266-286-308 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - read explanation above. Then work rib = knit 1/purl 1. When piece measures 5 cm, work 1 ridge in garter stitch. Knit 1 round while increasing 26-26-26-30-30-36 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 240-256-272-296-316-344 stitches. Insert 2 marker threads in piece; one at the beginning of round and one after 120-128-136-148-158-172 stitches (= in each side). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work pattern as follows: * Work 23-27-31-32-37-39 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 22 stitches), A.2 (= 10 stitches) over the next 30-30-30-40-40-50 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5 repetitions in width), A.3 (= 22 stitches), 23-27-31-32-37-39 stitches in stocking stitch, marker is here *, work from *-* 1 more time. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue the pattern like this and repeat diagrams vertically. When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm, cast off 6 stitches for armholes in each side (cast off 3 stitches on each side of marker thread in each side), and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 114-122-130-142-152-166 stitches. Then work back and forth on circular needle. Continue with pattern, stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side, AT THE SAME TIME cast off stitches on beginning of every row in each side for armholes as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-3-3-3 times = 104-112-114-124-130-140 stitches. When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work 1 row while decreasing 18-18-18-22-22-25 stitches evenly over stitches in A.1, A.2 and A.3 = 86-94-96-102-108-115 stitches. Cast off.

FRONT PIECE:
= 114-122-130-142-152-166 stitches. Then work back and forth on circular needle. Continue with pattern, stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side, AT THE SAME TIME cast off stitches on beginning of every row in each side for armholes as on back piece = 104-112-114-124-130-140 stitches. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm, decrease 10-10-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly over the middle 38-38-46-46-46-46 stitches on needle before slipping them on a stitch holder for neck (= 28-28-34-34-34-34 stitches on a stitch holder for neck) = 33-37-34-39-42-47 stitches for shoulder. Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: On next row from neck cast off 2 stitches = 31-35-32-37-40-45 stitches for shoulder. When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work 1 row while decreasing 4-4-3-5-5-6 stitches evenly over stitches in pattern = 27-31-29-32-35-39 stitches. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-50-52-54-56-60 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Karisma. Work 2 ridges. Then work rib = knit 1/purl 1 until piece measures 9 cm. Work 1 ridge. Knit 1 round while decreasing 1-1-1-1-1-1 stitch on round = 47-49-51-53-55-59 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work pattern as follows: Work in stocking stitch over the first 7-8-9-10-11-13 stitches, work A.4 over the next 32 stitches, work first stitch in A.4, 7-8-9-10-11-13 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue pattern upwards, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-10-12-11-10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this approx. every 6th-5th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 16-17-18-19-20-20 times in total = 79-83-87-91-95-99 stitches. When piece measures 44-44-44-42-42-40 cm, cast off 6 stitches mid under sleeve (cast off 3 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 73-77-81-85-89-93 stitches. Then continue back and forth on circular needle and cast off for sleeve cap at the beginning of row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 6-8-10-10-12-12 times and 1 stitch 8-6-4-6-4-6 times = 33 stitches remain in all sizes. Piece now measures 54-54-54-53-53-52 cm. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with pattern over the remaining 33 stitches until piece measures 13-15-14-15-17-18 cm. Continue to cast off in the right side, at the beginning of every row from right side as follows: 17 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time, 1 stitch 2 times = 12 stitches. Work over these 12 stitches until piece measures 20-22-23-24-26-27 cm. Cast off. The entire sleeve measures approx. 74-76-77-77-79-79 cm.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Work as right sleeve but cast off at the top in opposite side, i.e. at the beginning of every row from wrong side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves together mid back inside cast-off edge on each sleeve. Sew sleeves to front and back piece on body in outermost stitch as follows: Sew seam from armhole and up along shoulder on back piece until mid back. Repeat in the other side. Sew the same way from armhole and up along shoulder on front piece up to neck. Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 94-94-108-108-108-108 stitches around neck edge (including stitches from stitch holder) on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Karisma. Work 2 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME on last row increase 22-22-26-26-26-26 stitches evenly = 116-116-134-134-134-134 stitches. Then work rib = knit 1/purl 1. When rib measures 8 cm, work 1 ridge in garter stitch. Cast off. Fold neck edge double and sew on the inside, ridge against ridge.

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HEAD BAND - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth from mid back and sewn together when finished.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 30 stitches on needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Karisma. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH back and forth - read explanation above! Now work pattern as follows: Work A.5 (= 5 stitches on first row) 6 times in total on needle. After first row in A.5 there has been 6 stitches increased in total = 36 stitches. When A.5 has been worked, work A.6 (= 6 stitches) over every repetition of A.5. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 26 cm, work a cable mid front on head band as follows: Slip the first 18 stitches on cable needle, work the remaining 18 stitches and then the 18 stitches on cable needle. Continue with pattern A.6 back and forth until piece measures approx. 49 cm – adjust to finish after a whole repetition of A.6 vertically (approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements). Now work A.7 over every repetition of A.6. When A.7 has been worked, there are 30 stitches on row. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off. Sew head band together mid back by sewing one and one stitch inside cast-on edge and cast-off edge. Fasten off.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit from cable needle
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, purl from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
	= knit 2 together
	= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

Maria wrote:

Buongiorno. Dopo aver posto una domanda 6 giorni fa, speravo di ricevere un cenno di risposta. Così non è stato. Grazie ugualmente.

06.03.2024 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, abbiamo risposto alla sua domanda: deve ripetere i diagrammi fino alla lunghezza indicata. Buon lavoro!

11.03.2024 - 23:50

Buongiorno. I diagrammi A1 e A3 hanno 18 righe, mentre il diagramma A2 ne ha 20. Quindi, dopo la riga 18 riprendo dall'inizio A1 e A3, finendo nel contempo il diagramma A2. Ma poi come proseguo? Continuo A1 e A3 con la terza riga e A2 con la prima riga? Ma così facendo, i diagrammi non sono più allineati. Mi spiace, ma non capisco. Potete aiutarmi? Grazie.

29.02.2024 - 22:22

Buonasera Maria, alla fine di A.2 deve ricominciare dalla 1° riga e lavorare fino alla lunghezza indicata. Buon lavoro!

11.03.2024 - 23:49

Dumont wrote:

Merci de votre réponse rapide. Je vous dois toutes mes excuses. Trop impatiente de voir le motif, je n'avais pas été jusqu'au bout du diagramme...

26.01.2024 - 07:40

Bonjour, Je suis perplexe car mon dessin , fait à partir de vos grilles ne correspond pas à vos photos. Où ai je faux? Je ne vois pas de torsades indiquées sous les losanges comme sur vos photos. Merci

25.01.2024 - 13:16

Bonjour Mme Dumont, notez que tous les rangs figurent dans les diagrammes, sur l'endroit, lisez tous les rangs de droite à gauche (sur l'envers, vous les lirez ensuite de gauche à droite). Les torsades avec les losanges (panneau central du pull) correspond au diagramme A.2 que l'on répète 3, 4 ou 5 fois en fonction de la taille, encadré ensuite par les torsades des diagrammes A.1 et A.3. Bon tricot!

26.01.2024 - 07:18

Linda Svensson wrote:

Var hittar jag mönster till A5 och A6?

07.11.2022 - 06:42

Hei Linda. Diagrammene finner du nederst på oppskriften. Om du ser til venstre for diagram A.3, vil du finne diagram A.5 og A.6, som er i samme diagram som A.7. mvh DROPS Design

07.11.2022 - 14:04

Maree Edmondson wrote:

Hello I'm knitting your Waiting for snow sweater pattern. I'm up to the sleeves but am not sure that I'm reading the pattern correctly? The Graff to me reads that it's a knit or purl pattern only, but when I look at the sleeve, it seems to have a hole pattern. Is there another part to the pattern, or is the sleeve pattern a knit and purl only. I actually can't see the sleeve pattern very well when I look at the picture, hence my question. Thanks Maree.

01.08.2022 - 03:02

Hi Maree, The sleeves are knit and purl. Happy crafting!

01.08.2022 - 06:49

Hello I'm knitting the pattern, waiting for snow by Daniela Slovakia from the drops fan gallery. I'm confused in the diagrams of A2 which has 20 rows for the diagram, but the other diagrams of A1 and A3, only have 18 rows. What do I do with the extra rows from A2 please?

06.07.2022 - 06:01

Hi Maree, When A.1 and A.3 are finished in height, repeat from the bottom and finish the 2 remaining rows in A.2, then repeat this diagram in height. The pattern in A.2 will then correspond to the patterns in A.1 and A.3. Happy knitting!

06.07.2022 - 06:50

Cornelia wrote:

Hallo wordt het telpatroon ook op de rugpand gebreid of in tricot steek. Groetjes cornelia

19.04.2021 - 22:45

Dag Cornelia,

Ja, het telpatroon wordt ook op het rugpand gebreid.

21.04.2021 - 12:59

Lena Lindholm wrote:

Hej igen, varför har mönster A2 20 varv och A1 18 varv?

25.12.2020 - 20:26

Hej Lena. Du upprepar bara diagrammen till det mått som uppges i mönstret så det spelar ingen roll om det är olika antal varv i dem. Mvh DROPS Design

05.01.2021 - 12:08

Hej. när skall jag byta till stickor nr 4 ? efter 4 varv rätsticknig eller...?

22.12.2020 - 14:50

Hej Lena, efter ökningarna står det: Byt till rundsticka 4 och sticka mönster så här: Lycka till :)

23.12.2020 - 11:29

Waiting for Snow

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and texture. Size: S - XXXL Knitted head band in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted back and forth with cables.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to choose yarn

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (57)

Waiting for Snow

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted with cables and texture. Size: S - XXXL Knitted head band in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted back and forth with cables.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order