DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.55€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Last Days of Autumn

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down in false English rib and with rolled edge. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 197-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-828
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 2925, rust

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
The garment will stretch when worn, so has therefore 2 knitting tensions.
Knitting tension 1:
When the garment is worked and lies flat: 25 stitches in width and 24 rows in height (measured in knitted stitch) with false English rib = 10 x 10 cm.
Knitting tension 2:
When the garment is worn: 20 stitches in width and 24 rows in height (measured in knitted stitch) with false English rib = 10 x 10 cm.
Knitting tension in stocking stitch: 24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.55€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

KNITTING TENSIONS:
The texture of the garment will stretch when worn; we have therefore given 2 knitting tensions and 2 sketches.
Knitting tension 1 and sketch 1 apply when the garment is worked and lies flat.
It is this/these knitting tensions/measurements the piece should have when worked.
Knitting tension 2 and sketch 2 are for when the garment is worn.
The knitting tension in height is given after the knitted stitch, which is worked over 1 row less than the purled stitch, because the knitted stitch is slipped onto the right needle every 2nd round. In other words, 24 rows in height measured in the knitted stitch on 10 cm are equivalent to 48 rows measured in the purled stitch on 10 cm in height.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
All increases are made on a round where the yarn over and knitted stitch are knitted together!
Work 5 stitches in the stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and stitch together, but wait to slip the yarn over and worked stitch off the needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit 1 more stitch in the stitch and yarn over worked *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this by both markers (= a total of 8 stitches increased). The increased stitches are worked into the pattern.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 216 stitches) and divide these stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 44) = 4.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are made on a round where the yarn over and knitted stitch are knitted together!
Decrease as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread (without the yarn overs, the yarn overs between the stitches are also slipped), slip the next 3 stitches to right needle as if to knit together: Slip 1 knit stitch + 1 purl stitch + 1 knit stitch (= stitch with marker) = 3 stitches without the yarn overs. Then knit together: 1 purl stitch and 1 knit stitch (= 2 stitches). Now pass the 3 slipped stitches over the stitches that was knitted together (= 4 stitches decreased – not counting the yarn overs).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is worked first in false English rib, then the yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. As the garment is worked with a texture which will stretch when worn, we have given 2 KNITTING TENSIONS – read description above.

YOKE:
Cast on 108-112-116-124-132-136 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Alpaca.
Work 4 rounds stocking stitch (= rolled edge). Then work pattern as follows:
The round starts approx. mid back.
Half back piece: Work A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 20-20-22-24-26-26 stitches.
Right sleeve: Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1 over the next 12 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches.
Front piece: Work A.1 over the next 38-40-42-46-50-52 stitches.
Left sleeve: Work A.2 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next 12 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches.
Half back piece: Work A.1 over the last 18-20-20-22-24-26 stitches.
On round 8 (i.e. every 4th round in the knitted stitch) in A.2 increase 4 stitches in each A.2 (= a total of 16 stitches, the increase is drawn in the diagram), the increased stitches are worked into pattern A.1.
Continue the pattern like this in height. I.e. you increase a total of 16 stitches every 8th round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work A.1 and A.2 a total of 12-13-14-15-16-18 times in height. In other words, you have now increased 12-13-14-15-16-18 times = 300-320-340-364-388-424 stitches.
Continue working A.1 over all stitches until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-31 cm from the cast-on edge.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Half back piece: Work pattern as before over the first 44-46-50-54-58-64 stitches.
Right sleeve: Place the next 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches under the sleeve.
Front piece: Work pattern as before over the next 86-92-98-106-114-128 stitches.
Left sleeve: Place the next 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches under the sleeve.
Half back piece: Work pattern as before over the last 42-46-48-52-56-64 stitches.

BODY:
= 192-204-216-240-256-284 stitches. Continue in the round with pattern. When the piece measures 3 cm from where the body and sleeves were divided, insert 1 marker in the middle knitted stitch under each sleeve (= in sides). On the next round (adjust so that the next round is a round where the yarn over and knitted stitch are knitted together), increase in the stitch with the marker under each sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 5-5-4-4-4-4 cm a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times = 216-228-248-272-288-316 stitches. When the piece measures 18 cm from where the body and sleeves were divided (adjust so that the last round is a round without yarn overs) continue working in stocking stitch. On first round in stocking stitch increase 44-44-48-56-56-64 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 260-272-296-328-344-380 stitches.
When the piece measures 31-31-32-32-32-31 cm from where the body and sleeves were divided, work rib in the round (= knit 3, purl 1). Work a total of 3 rounds. Then knit 1 round before casting off with knit.

SLEEVE:
Knit up 1 stitch in each of the last 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches that where cast on under the sleeve, work the 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches from the thread on one side of the piece and knit up 1 stitch in each of the first 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches that where cast on under the sleeve = 74-78-82-90-94-98 stitches. Work pattern in the round.
When the piece measures 3 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body, insert 1 marker in the middle knitted stitch under the sleeve. On the next round (adjust so that the next round is 1 round where the yarn over and knitted stitch are knitted together), decrease 2 stitches on each side of the stitch with the marker - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 5-4-3½-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 7-8-9-10-11-11 times = 46-46-46-50-50-54 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-33-32-32-31-29 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body (adjust so that the last round is a round without yarn overs) continue working stocking stitch. On the first round with stocking stitch increase 10 stitches evenly on round = 56-56-56-60-60-64 stitches. Work stocking stitch until the piece measures 43-42-41-39-38-35 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body. On the next round work rib in the round (= knit 3, purl 1). Work a total of 3 rounds of rib. Knit 1 round and cast off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 65-66-66-66-67-67 cm from the cast-on edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.09.2018
Correction: piece is worked in false fisherman's rib (previously half fisherman's rib)

Diagram

symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
symbols = knit together yarn over and slipped stitch
symbols = work 5 stitches in stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and stitch together, but wait to slip the yarn over and stitch you have worked onto the right needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased). The increased stitches are worked into pattern A.1
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = sketch 1 and sketch 2 - read description under KNITTING TENSIONS in text
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 197-2

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Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Raisa wrote:

Hei! Mitä tarkoittaa tarkemmin selitettynä kohta "Siirrä seuraavat 64-68-72-76-80-84 silmukkaa apulangalle hihaa varten ja luo hihan alapuolelle 10-10-10-14-14-14 silmukkaa." Miten nuo silmukat luodaan hihan alle?

04.03.2024 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Nämä silmukat luodaan heti, kun silmukat on siirretty apulangalle, eli ne luodaan apulangan silmukoiden tilalle. Näiden silmukoiden kohdalta poimitaan myöhemmin silmukoita hihaa varten.

05.03.2024 - 17:24

country flag Miriam wrote:

Hallo, ich bin gerade an der Stelle, wo am Ärmel das erste Mal abgenommen werden soll. Nur leider ist bei mir die rechte Masche mit dem Markierer genau da, wo die Runde anfängt. Habe ich da etwas falsch gemacht? Ich habe noch mal alles überprüft und glaube eigentlich, dass es so richtig sein müsste. Aber dann kommt es mit dem Muster nicht hin, weil die Maschen vor dem Markierer ja noch anders (mit Umschlägen) gestrickt werden... Viele Grüße, Miriam

21.02.2024 - 10:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Miriam, die Abnahmenrunde so anpassen, damit die rechten Maschen zusammen mit ihrem Umschlag gestrickt werden, aber die Abnahmen beginnen 3 Maschen davor, dh die 2 letzten Maschen der Runde (die Runde wo man die Umschläge machen soll) + die erste Masche (= die mit der Markierung) abheben, dann die 2 nächsten Maschen rechts zusammen stricken und die abgehobenen Maschen über die gestrickte Masche ziehen, die Markierung in dieser Masche einsetzten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.02.2024 - 14:59

country flag Germana wrote:

Salve, ho avviato i 108 punti iniziali con i ferri circolari da 80, ma risultano troppo lunghi, quelli da 40 sono troppo corti, siete sicuri che le indicazioni siano corrette?

04.02.2024 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Germana, può lavorare con i ferri da 40 cm fino a raggiungere il numero di maglie necessario per lavorare con gli 80 cm. Buon lavoro!

25.02.2024 - 16:35

country flag Berbett wrote:

Bonjour, Ma question porte sur les diminutions. Comment glisser les jetées ? Comment passer les 3 mailles glissées ainsi que les jetés par-dessus les mailles tricotées ensemble ? Merci d'avance.

28.01.2024 - 10:37

country flag Berbett wrote:

Bonjour, Ma question porte sur les diminutions. Comment glisser les jetées ? Comment passer les 3 mailles glissées ainsi que les jetés par-dessus les mailles tricotées ensemble ? Merci d'avance.

28.01.2024 - 10:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Berbett, glissez les jetés en même temps que la maille à laquelle ils appartiennent, autrement dit, quand vous devez glisser 1 maille mais que c'est une maille avec jeté, glissez cette maille et son jeté (qui ne comptent que pour une maille). Pour passer les 3 mailles glissées par-dessus, vous pouvez insérer l'aiguille gauche de gauche à droite dans ces 3 mailles glissées et les passer par-dessus les mailles tricotées ensemble , ou bien les passer une par une, si c'est plus simple pour vous. Bon tricot!

29.01.2024 - 12:11

country flag Paulette KRENTNER wrote:

Bonsoir, je ne vois pas les explications concernant les fausses côtes anglaises. Je vous est adressé également un message concernant les aiguilles circulaires doit-on mesurer entièrement les aiguilles plus le câble pour avoir par exemple des aiguilles 80 cm pour faire ce joli pull. Merci de me répondre.🌺🧚‍♀️

17.01.2024 - 17:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Krentner, le point fantaisie est expliqué ici sous forme de diagramme, vous retrouvez les diagrammes A.1 et A.2 à droite du schéma des mesures, sous la manche. La longueur d'une aiguille circulaire se mesure en général d'une pointe à l'autre. Bon tricot!

18.01.2024 - 08:36

country flag Germana wrote:

SAlve, i ferri a doppia punta di quale lunghezza devono essere? grazie

05.01.2024 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Germana, deve utilizzare la misura con cui lavora più comodamente. Buon lavoro!

07.01.2024 - 12:57

country flag Susanna wrote:

Vorrei sapere se avete un video che spiega come fare le diminuzioni per le maniche. Come si fa a calare sul giro dove la maglia gettata e la maglia diritto vengono lavorate insieme . Se devo calare ai lati del segnapunti significa che ne calo due a fine ferro e gli altri due all’inizio del successivo ? Grazie

19.02.2022 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Susanna, si, deve diminuire le maglie all'inizio di un ferro e all'inizio dell'altro. Buon lavoro!

05.03.2022 - 22:15

country flag Caroline wrote:

Bij de meerderingen voor het lijf onder de mouw doen je een markeerdraad in de middelste steek te plaatsen. Vermits ik 10 steken moest opzetten, is er geen middelste steek. Kies ik dan best steek 5 of steek 6 als middelste steek? Dankjewel

26.01.2022 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Caroline,

De markeerdraad moet je in een rechte steek plaatsen, dus in een steek die steeds recht gebreid wordt in het patroon. Dat zal inderdaad de 5e of 6e steek zijn dan, maar het moet dus wel een rechte steek zijn en geen averechte.

30.01.2022 - 14:06

country flag Pia Larsen wrote:

Hej. Jeg kan ikke finde ud af om denne bluse er strikket i patent, eller om det bare er det øverste stykke. Jeg syntes at det er svært at forstå opskriften. Mvh Pia Larsen

13.01.2022 - 12:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, den er strikket i falsk patent, som du kan se på et af billederne er det nederste stykke strikket i glatstrik. God fornøjelse!

17.01.2022 - 13:47