Marion Van Der Burg wrote:
Hallo. Ik zou de trui Valdres 197-1 willen breien, maar in andere kleuren. Als hoofdkleur zou ik zeegroen50 willen gebruiken en een oplopende blauwe kleur, bv 60 petroleum - 73 petrol en 37 donkerblauw/groen of 75 petrol cerise. Kunt u mij adviseren of dit een goede keus is? Vriendelijke groet, Marion van der Burg.
20.12.2020 - 13:29DROPS Design answered:
Dag Marion,
Kleurkeuze is echt heel persoonlijk en ik weet natuurlijk niet precies wat jij mooi vindt of wat bij jou past. Als je niet precies weet hoe de kleuren eruit zien, kun je wat extra bollen bestellen en terug sturen. Vraag de winkel waar je de garens besteld wat de retourregelingen zijn.
22.12.2020 - 12:15May Kristine Waaler wrote:
Str xxxl passer den en som er 129 cm over bryste
01.12.2020 - 08:57DROPS Design answered:
Hej May, blusen i str XXXL måler 2x84cm = 168 cm i brystvidde. Du finder måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. God fornøjelse!
01.12.2020 - 10:24Petra Rohatsch wrote:
Hallo, liebes Drops-Team,\r\n\r\nIch habe eine Frage zum Ärmel: auf der Abbildung sieht es so aus, dass nach A4 ein Rapport A1 folgt, in der Anleitung soll es aber nach A4 mit A2 weiter gehen. Wie ist die richtige Musterabfolge?\r\nViele Grüße Petra
12.10.2020 - 21:49DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Rohatsch, ja so stimmt es auch, im Foto wird Grösse S gezeigt, je nach der Grösse wird A.4 unterschiedlich sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
13.10.2020 - 11:35Stine wrote:
Jeg strikker i str small og har begynt på ermer. Jeg har strikket 5 cm vrangbord og felt 8 masker som oppskriften sier = 40 masker igjen på pinnen. Det jeg ikke får til å gå opp er diagrammet. A4a = 2 masker A4b = 12 masker som skal strikkes 3 ganger i bredden = 42 masker + de to siste i diagram A4 c. Jeg har da 40 masker på pinnen og 4 masker jeg ikke får strikket ferdig. Hvordan løser jeg dette? Skal jeg istedefor å felle 8, felle 4 så jeg sitter med 44 masker på pinnen?
26.05.2020 - 19:46DROPS Design answered:
Hei Stine, A4a (2 masker) + 3 x A4b (36 masker) + 2 siste i A4c = 40 masker. God fornøyelse!
27.05.2020 - 07:36Lillian Kamel wrote:
Tänker försöka sticka denna vackra teöja trors att den kanske är för svår för mig. Det som jag undrar över just nu är varför man ska minska 52 maskor L redan efter resåren brukar vara tvärtom blir inte resåren utstående
04.05.2020 - 16:25DROPS Design answered:
Hej Resår är mer elastiskt än slätstickning och drar därför ihop sig mer. Genom att ha fler maskor på resåren undviker man att det blir en markant skillnad på bredden på resåren jämfört med resten av fram- och bakstycket. Mvh DROPS Design
05.05.2020 - 08:28Grete Brandhaug wrote:
Hva betyr «stjerna» som er utenfor mønster arm A4på side 9 ..
17.03.2020 - 11:11DROPS Design answered:
Hej Grete Det står en förklaring i texten till ERMER; " NB: ønskes et lengre erme gjentas de 2 pinnene markert med stjerne til ønsket mål, før det strikkes videre på neste pinne i A.4. " Mvh DROPS Design
18.03.2020 - 13:22Anna wrote:
Nel modello u-861 non è riportato il diagramma A5 per proseguire con il raglan.Come fare per proseguire? grazie anna
16.03.2020 - 14:28DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Anna, il diagramma A.5 è riportato di fianco ai diagrammi A.3, è formato da 2 maglie. Buon lavoro!
16.03.2020 - 14:52Heidi wrote:
Hallo. Ich habe jetzt Ärmel und Rumpfteil auf der Rundnadel und stricke die Passe. A3 habe ich fertig gestrickt. Mache ich nun das Muster A6 über Vorderteil-Ärmel-Rückenteil-Ärmel fortlaufend, oder fange ich nach jeder Raglanlinie wieder neu mit dem Muster A6 an? Das Muster wird ja dann durch die Abnahmen an den Raglanlinien immer weiter abgeschnitten werden. Mir ist nicht klar, wie ich das machen soll, damit das gut aussieht. - You can answer in English if this is easier for you.
09.03.2020 - 23:13DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Heidi, Ich würde A.6 so über A.3 stricken /anpassen daß A.6 über A.3 aufgereiht wird (= beim Vorder-, Rückenteil sowie bei den Ärmeln). Viel Sapß beim stricken!
10.03.2020 - 10:43Saskia wrote:
Klopt het patroon bij het begin van de mouw wel? De beschrijving komt niet overeen met de foto. Volgens de beschrijving moet ik na A4 verder met patroon A2. Maar als ik naar de foto kijk zie ik toch echt eerst nog patroon A1 en daarna pas A2. Lijkt me ook logischer qua centimeters.
04.03.2020 - 01:53DROPS Design answered:
Dag Saskia,
Ja, het patroon voor de mouw zou moeten kloppen; je breit eerst A.4 in licht eiken en daarna brei je A.2 met licht eiken en chocoladebruin. Hetzelfde als op het lijf. Het patroon dat op de afbeelding staat is gebreid in maat S A.4 voor maat S en M staat rechts onder de maattekening. Voor A.4 voor de andere maten staat er boven. Het patroon kan per maat ietsje anders zijn.
04.03.2020 - 20:52
Valdres |
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Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked bottom up with Nordic pattern and textured pattern in stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 197-1 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size. DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 260 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 44) = 5.9. In this example, work together approx. each 5th and 6th stitch. KNITTING TIP-1: To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working Nordic pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem. KNITTING TIP-2 (for yoke): If the knitting gauge is not right in height and you work more rows on 10 cm / 4'' than described in the text, the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted for by working 1 extra row of stockinette stitch regularly on the yoke. INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. RAGLAN: Decrease to raglan on each side of each A.5 as follows: Decrease 1 stitch after A.5 as follows: Slip the last stitch in A.5, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). Decrease 1 stitch before A.5 as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before A.5, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). In other words you decrease 2 stitches by each A.5 and a total of 8 stitches on the round. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The pieces are placed together and the yoke is worked in the round. BODY: Cast on 260-288-316-344-376-400 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and light oak. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm / 2''. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and knit 1 round where you decrease 44-48-52-56-64-64 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP = 216-240-264-288-312-336 stitches. Knit 1 round as follows: Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, knit 107-119-131-143-155-167 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, knit to end of round. The markers mark the sides of the piece. Then work A.1 over all stitches (= 18-20-22-24-26-28 repeats of 12 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (you will measure from this marker later). Then work A.2 over A.1- read KNITTING TIP-1. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 over A.2. When you have worked as far as the arrow in A.3 (see arrow for your size) work the next round in A.3 as follows: bind off 4 stitches, work the next 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches as before, bind off the next 7 stitches, work the next 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches as before, bind off the last 3 stitches. The piece measures approx. 32-29-32-32-31-30 cm / 12 ½"-11 3/8"-12 ½"-12 ½"-12 1/8"-11 ¾" from the marker (approx. 43-40-45-45-46-45 cm / 16 7/8"-15 ¾"-17 5/8"-17 5/8"-18"-17 5/8" whole length). Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves. SLEEVES: The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles; change to short circular needle when necessary. Cast on 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and light oak. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm / 2''. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and knit 1 round where you decrease 8-10-8-10-8-10 stitches evenly on round = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches. READ THE WHOLE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING: You work a pattern of approx. 8-8-5-5-4-4 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-1 7/8"-1 7/8"-1 ½"-1 ½", if you wish to adjust the length of the sleeve, do it now – see below. Then work the same pattern stripe as on the body (from the marker to the armhole = approx. 32-29-32-32-31-30 cm / 12 ½"-11 3/8"-12 ½"-12 ½"-12 1/8"-11 ¾"), i.e. the whole sleeve should measure approx. 45-42-42-42-40-39 cm / 17 5/8"-16 ½"-16 ½"-16 ½"-15 ¾"-15 ¼". Work as follows: Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Work 1 round in stockinette stitch, then work the next round as follows: Work A.4a (= 2-3-4-5-0-1 stitches), A.4b (= 12 stitches) a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width, A.4c (= 2-3-4-5-0-1 stitches). Continue until A.4 has been worked 1 time in height – NOTE: if you would like a longer sleeve, repeat the 2 rows marked with a star to desired length before continuing with the next round in A.4. If you would like a shorter sleeve, just work the desired number of rounds of A.4, but work a minimum of 1 of the purled rounds. – AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-9-9-10-12-12 cm / 3 7/8"-3 ½"-3 ½"-3 7/8"-4 5/8"-4 5/8" increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 2-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 16-21-20-19-24-23 times = 72-84-84-84-96-96 stitches. The stitches in A.4a and A.4c and the increased stitches are worked into pattern A.4b as you go. When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches – A.2 is worked over A.4b and is adjusted out to each side; the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 (= 12 stitches) over A.2. When all the stitches under the sleeve are increased, work A.3 a total of 6-7-7-7-8-8 times in width. When you have worked as far as the arrow in A.3, work the next round as follows: bind off 4 stitches, work the next 65-77-77-77-89-89 stitches as before, bind off the last 3 stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 45-42-42-42-40-39 cm / 17 5/8"-16 ½"-16 ½"-16 ½"-15 ¾"-15 ¼". Work 1 more sleeve in the same way. YOKE: Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you bind off stitches for the armholes = 332-380-404-428-476-500 stitches. Start the round in the transition between right sleeve and back piece. Work as follows: * A.5 (= 2 stitches, raglan line), continue with A.3 as before over the next 97-109-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front/back piece), A.5 (= 2 stitches, raglan line), work pattern A.3 as before over the next 65-77-77-77-89-89 stitches (= sleeve) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times – read KNITTING TIP-2. Continue this pattern and decrease to RAGLAN – read description above, every 2nd round a total of 27-31-32-33-37-39 times. When A.3 has been completed in height, work A.6 (= 12 stitches) over A.3. After the last decrease to raglan there are 116-132-148-164-180-188 stitches on the round. Continue until A.6 has been completed. The yoke measures approx. 20-23-24-25-27-28 cm / 7 7/8"-9"-9 3/8"-9 ¾"-10 5/8"-11". You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same both front and back. Work elevation in back of neck or go straight to working neck if you do not want an elevation. ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (this marks the start of the round after the elevation has been worked). Continue with light oak and knit to mid back, insert 1 marker. Start from the right side and knit as far as 30-30-34-34-40-40 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 60-60-68-68-80-80 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 54-54-61-61-72-72 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-48-54-54-64-64 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 42-42-48-48-56-56 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Cut the strand. The round now starts at the marker, i.e. the transition between right sleeve and back piece. NECK: Continue with light oak and work the next round with decreases as follows: Knit * 40-46-54-58-66-70 stitches and decrease 0-6-12-13-19-22 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, knit together the next 18-20-20-24-24-24 stitches 2 and 2 (= 9-10-10-12-12-12 stitches decreased) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 98-100-104-114-118-120 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work the next round as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 2, knit 2, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8-0-4-4-8-0 stitches left, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) over the remaining stitches = 116-120-124-136-140-144 stitches. The yarn overs are worked twisted in rib (i.e. knit 2 / purl 2) on the next round to avoid holes. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the rib measures 3 cm / 1''. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Inger Johanne Eitran wrote:
Er denne veldig stor i størrelsen.......prøvde meg på Xxl men denne blir sikkelig stor, så må helt ned i m for att den skal passe..........., vanligvis strikker jeg xl når jeg strikker til meg selv
13.06.2020 - 18:10