DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 193-4
DROPS design: Pattern no li-104
Yarn group B
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Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
To fit foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Leg length: 20 - 20 - 23 cm / 7 7/8"-7 7/8"-9"
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-200-200 g color 2923, goldenrod
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 for sock.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 for rib
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP (applies to heel):
To get a stronger heel the entire heel and heel decrease can be worked in 2 strands as follows: Use strand inside and outside of ball and work 1 stitch alternately with one and the other strand. This way you get a thicker heel without working with double strand.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 7-7-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 7-7-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 6-6-7 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until 6-6-7 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
Continue decrease like this with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are 12-14-14 stitches on needle.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, marker, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, from the top and down to toes.

SOCK:
Cast on 60-64-66 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Lima. Knit 1 round.
Work next round as follows: Work A.1A (= 3-5-6 stitches), A.2A (= 8 stitches), A.3A (= 15 stitches), A.2A (= 8 stitches), A.4A (= 15 stitches), A.2A (= 8 stitches) and finish with A.5A (= 3-5-6 stitches). Repeat A.1A and A.5A vertically until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work A.1B over A.1A, A.2B over A.2A, A.3B over A.3A, A.4B over A.4A and A.5B over A.5A. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1B to A.5B have been worked, there are 53-57-59 stitches on round.
Then work as follows: Work A.1C over A.1B, A.2C over A.2B, A.3C over A.3B, A.4C over A.4B and A.5C over A.5B. Work A.1C to A.5C 2-2-3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 20-20-23 cm / 7 7/8"-7 7/8"-9".
Work next round as follows:
Knit 0-2-2, purl 1-1-2, knit 9, work A.3C (= 12 stitches), A.2C (= 9 stitches) and A.4C (= 12 stitches) as before, knit 9, purl 1-1-2 and knit 0-2-2-.
Work next round as follows:
Knit 5-7-8, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 6-5-5, work A.6A (= 27-29-29 stitches) – continue on correct round in diagram, knit 6-5-5, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and knit 5-7-8 = 51-55-57 stitches.
Then repeat A.6A (= 27-29-29 stitches), work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. Now keep the first 12-13-14 stitches on needle for heel, slip the next 27-29-29 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot) and keep the last 12-13-14 stitches on needle for heel. Read KNITTING TIP and work in stockinette stitch back and forth over the 24-26-28 heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm / 2''-2 1/4''-2½''. Insert 1 marker in middle of row, MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Now work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above. When heel decrease is done, pick up 11-12-13 stitches on each side of heel and slip the 27-29-29 stitches from stitch holder back on needle = 61-67-69 stitches. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 27-29-29 stitches on top of foot.
Work in stockinette stitch and A.6A as before and decrease on each side of the 27-29-29 stitches on top of foot as follows: Knit the last 2 stitches BEFORE first marker on top of foot together and knit the first 2 stitches AFTER last marker on top of foot twisted together. Decrease like this every other round 7-8-7 times in total = 47-51-55 stitches. Work until piece measures 17-19-21 cm / 6 3/4''-7½''-8 1/4'' from marker on heel – adjust to not finish on 3rd to 5th round in A.6A.
Now work A.6B over A.6A, continue the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. When A.6B has been worked vertically, there are 44-48-52 stitches on needles.
Continue working in stockinette stitch over all stitches. Continue until piece measures approx. 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker on heel (approx. 4-4-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-2'' remain until finished measurements, try the sock on and work to desired length).
Insert 1 marker in each side of sock so that there are 22-24-26 stitches both on top of foot and under foot. Continue working and decrease for toes on each side of these two markers - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this on every other round a total of 4-4-5 times and then on every round a total of 5-6-6 times = 8 stitches remain on needles in all sizes. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Knit another sock the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = BOBBLE: Knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch until there are 5 stitches, turn and purl 1 row from wrong side over these 5 stitches, turn and knit 1 row from right side. Use left needle and pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off the needle, pass third stitch over first stitch, pass fourth stitch over first stitch and then fifth stitch over first stitch (= 1 stitch remains)
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 193-4

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Ron wrote:

Zucht, vind het verwarrend... Zoals ik het interpreteer, vanaf: "Brei de volgende naald als volgt: Brei 0-2-2 recht, 1-1-2 averecht, 9 recht, brei A.3C (= 12 steken), A.2C (= 9 steken) ...........". Maar je moet A.3C/A.2C/A.4C volledig afmaken, 8 nld, want anders klopt het patroon niet meer. Dan 2 minderingen en A.6A, A.6A afmaken 8 nld. Dan A.6A herhalen, 8 nld. Dus brei je A.6A twee keer voordat je aan de hiel begint.

29.03.2024 - 09:55

country flag Ron wrote:

Bij de 1st keer A.6A in het patroon, de naald waarin 2 steken geminderd wordt, staat “ga verder op de juiste naald in telpatroon”. Wat wordt hier mee bedoeld? En dan daarna “herhaal A.6A, overige steken in tricosteek”. Maar zou “herhaal A.6A” niet “ga verder met A.6A” moeten zijn? Dus 1 nld met 2 minderingen en de overige 7 nld met de overige steken in tricosteek. En dus 1 x A.6A voor de hiel? Of is het anders?

24.03.2024 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ron,

Met de juiste naald in het telpatroon wordt bedoeld dat je gewoon verder met het telpatroon gaat waar je was gebleven, zodat het telpatroon mooi doorloopt. A.6 brei je inderdaad maar 1 keer in de breedte, dus dat er 'herhaal' staat is een beetje verwarrend.

27.03.2024 - 13:50

country flag Helena wrote:

Hei, Ohjeesta nayttaa puuttuvan palmikkokuvio pohkeen puolelta. Ohjeesa toistetaan A2 (A,B,C) kolmesti, muodostaen kolme "nypyllista" palmikkoa, mutta kuvissa on selkeasti "nypyton" palmikko pohkeen puolella ja vain yksi nypyllinen palmikko edessa/jalkapoydan puolella. Kuvien perusteella ohjeen ensimmainen A.2 olisi 8n (tai 6n) silmukan silea palmikko, ei 9n silmukan nypyllinen palmikko, kuten ohjepirroksissa? Vai ovatko kuvat jostain muusta ohjeesta?

14.11.2022 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, ohje tarkistetaan parhaillaan ja tarvittaessa siihen tehdään korjaus.

16.01.2023 - 17:57

country flag Jannina wrote:

Hej! Jag stickar storlek 35-37, och får inte varvet efter bubblan att gå ihop. Enligt diagrammet ska det stickas 8 räta maskor i diagram A2, men med den maska som blir kvar efter bubblan på varvet innan finns det 9 maskor som ska rymmas inom A2. Är det fel eller har jag missupfattat något? Undrar även om bilden av sockorna stämmer - med detta mönster blir det tre bubblor, men på bilden ser det ut som bara en bubbla mitt på foten. Tack på förhand!

22.01.2022 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jannina. Når du strikker A.2A diagrammet er det 8 masker, diagrammet viser 9 masker men en helt sort rute viser at det ikke er noen maske. Når du strikker 1. omgang av A.2B øker du med 1 maske = 9 masker. Slik at når du skal strikke flettene og boblen er det over 9 masker. Når det gjelder diagrammet med 3 bobler er det oversendt design avd. slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk. mvh DROPS Design

25.01.2022 - 11:32

country flag Sólveig wrote:

"setjið 1 lykkju á kaðlaprjón aftan við stykkið, prjónið 3 lykkjur slétt, prjónið 1 lykkju slétt af kaðlaprjóni" , á þetta ekki að vera fyrir framan stykkið?

08.06.2021 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Takk fyrir Sólveig, það er búið að laga þetta.

09.06.2021 - 10:02

country flag Louise wrote:

Jeg lurer på om det mangler et diagram i oppskriften? Jeg har lagt opp 60 masker i størrelse 35-37, men mønsteret fra A.1A - A.5A er kun 44 masker. Hva med resten?

24.05.2021 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Louise. Du stickar vissa av diagrammen flera gånger. Första pinne i storlek 35-37 stickar du såhär: 3 (=A.1A)+ 8 (=A.2A) + 15 (=A.3A) +8 (=A.2A)+15 (=A.4A)+ 8 (=A.2A) +3 (=A.5A) = 60m. Mvh DROPS Design

24.05.2021 - 09:00

country flag Anna wrote:

Hei, lurer på om det mangler et diagram? Når jeg følger mønsteret får jeg ikke flyttingen man ser bakerst på bilde 2

12.04.2021 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anna. Det er 6 diagrammer til sokken (A.1, A.2, A.3, A.4, A.5 og A.6). Disse diagrammene er også delt inn i A, B og C (bortsett fra A.6 som bare har A og B). (Usikker på hva du mener med flyttingen bakerst på bilde 2, ser vrangmasker og flette). mvh DROPS design

12.04.2021 - 15:24

country flag Britany wrote:

Bonjour. Je tente de faire se modèle j’ai alors monté 66mailles pour la plus grande version. Ensuite j’ai suivie le diagramme A1A,A2A,A3A, A2A, A4A, A2A,A5A. J’ai fait sur 4cm mais maintenant je doit faire A1B,A2B,A3B,A2B...?? Car cela donnera 3NOPE non??

16.01.2020 - 19:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brittany, tout à fait, comme vous tricotez 3 fois A.2A en largeur, vous aurez 3 nopes. Bon tricot!

17.01.2020 - 08:27

country flag Heidrun Ruff wrote:

Zu drops 193-4, Socken happy Die Anleitung lässt sich nicht komplett ausdrucken (nur die erste Seite) auch beim Speichern als Datei ist im pdf nur die erste Seite. Dann tritt eine Fehlermeldung auf. Andere Anleitungen gehen ohne Probleme. Kann es sein, dass in der Datei ein technischer Fehler ist? Danke und liebe Grüße

16.01.2020 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ruff, Bei Google Chrome ist ein Problem bekannt. Wenn Sie versuchen, über Google Chrome zu drucken, deakativieren Sie die Option zum Drucken von Kopf- und Fußzeilen im Druckdialog. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.01.2020 - 12:21

country flag Elis wrote:

Dobrý deň, neukazuje mi k tomuto návodu schémy. Nie sú k dispozícii, alebo mám nejaký problém u seba? Pri iných návodoch mi ale schémy ukazuje. Ďakujem. Pekný deň.

19.10.2019 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Elis, díky za upozornění - schéma už je opraveno a mělo by se zobrazovat bez problémů. Hodně zdaru! Hana

21.10.2019 - 09:55