DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Beach Comfort

Crocheted shorts with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.

DROPS 190-25
DROPS design: Pattern e-276
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 13, raspberry

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 treble crochets x 16 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Women Trousers & Shortslace
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
On every round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch from beginning of round.
At beginning of every round with treble crochets replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides):
Work until 1 treble crochet remains before A.2, work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, work A.2 and 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet (= 2 treble crochets increased). Repeat in the other side (= 4 treble crochets increased on round).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid back):
Increase 2 treble crochets as follows:
Work until 2 treble crochets remain before marker, work 2 treble crochets in first treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 treble crochets (marker is in the middle of these treble crochets) and 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet (= 2 treble crochets increased).
Increase 4 treble crochets as follows:
Work until 4 treble crochets remain before marker, work 2 treble crochets in first treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 treble crochets (marker is in the middle of these treble crochets) and 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet (= 4 treble crochets increased).

INCREASE TIP-3:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in same stitch.
----------------------------------------------------------

SHORTS:
Work in the round top down.

Work 244-274-299-329-369-404 chain stitches with Safran on hook size 2.5 mm and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid back.
Work first round as follows: Work 1 chain stitch (= 1 double crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 48-54-59-65-73-80 times in total = 196-220-240-264-296-324 double crochets. Then work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until piece measures 2 cm. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Now work in the round according to diagram A.1 as follows: Work A.1a (shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.1b), work A.1b 49-55-60-66-74-81 times in total in width. Continue until A.1a/b have been worked vertically.

Then work the shorts higher in the back as follows: Work 10-11-12-13-14-15 double crochets past the marker thread mid back, turn and work 1 slip stitch in first stitch, then 1 double crochet in each of the next 19-21-23-25-27-29 double crochets, turn and work 1 slip stitch in first stitch, then 1 double crochet in each of the next 29-31-35-38-41-44 stitches (slip stitches are also worked). Continue like this by working 10-11-12-13-14-15 stitches more on every turn until a total of 140-154-192-208-224-240 stitches have been worked. Turn again and work until marker thread mid back.

Now work in the round as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 47-53-58-64-72-79 stitches (= half back piece), A.2 over the next 5 double crochets (= the side), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 92-104-114-126-142-156 stitches (= front piece), A.2 over the next 5 double crochets (= the side), work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 47-53-58-64-72-79 stitches (= half back piece).
Continue pattern like this (then repeat last round in A.2) - AT THE SAME TIME increase in the sides and mid back as follows:
SIDES:
Increase on each side of A.1, in each side as follows - read INCREASE TIP-1! Increase like this every 3rd-4th-4th-4th-4th-4th round 9-8-8-9-9-10 times in total (= 36-32-32-36-36-40 treble crochets increased).
MID BACK:
When piece measures 15-16-17-19-20-22 cm (measured mid front), increase mid back as follows – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this with 2 treble crochets mid back on every round 4-8-10-10-10-10 times in total, then increase 4 treble crochets on every round 5-3-3-3-3-3 times in total (= 28-28-28-32-32-32 treble crochets increased).
When all increases are done there are 260-280-300-332-364-396 treble crochets on round. Continue with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm mid front and 26-28-31-33-35-37 cm mid back.

Now divide for legs as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 5-5-6-6-6-7 treble crochets on round, turn and work back over the first 10-10-12-12-12-14 treble crochets (i.e. 5-5-6-6-6-7 treble crochets on each side of marker thread mid back). These 10-10-12-12-12-14 treble crochets = gusset. Work treble crochets back and forth over these treble crochets for 10-11-12-13-14-15 cm, cut the thread. Fasten gusset edge to edge to the middle 10-10-12-12-12-14 stitches towards mid front. Then work leg.

LEG:
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the 115-125-133-149-165-179 treble crochets around one leg, work in addition A.3 (= 7 treble crochets) over A.2 and work 26-28-32-34-36-38 treble crochet along gusset = 148-160-172-190-208-224 treble crochets. Then work 2-2-3-3-4-4 rounds with treble crochets - on last round increase 8-8-8-2-8-4 treble crochets evenly – read INCREASE TIP-3 = 156-168-180-192-216-228 treble crochets.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.4 as follows: Work A.4a (shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.4b/c), work A.4b 77-83-89-95-107-113 times in total, A.1d. Continue until A.4a/b/c are done vertically = 156-168-180-192-216-228 treble crochets.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.5 as follows: Work A.5a (shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.5b/c), A.5b, A.5c 12-13-14-15-17-18 times in total, and A.5d. Continue until A.5a/b/c/d have been worked vertically. Fasten off. Work the other leg the same way.

TIE RIBBON:
Work 120-140-150-160-170-180 cm with LOOSE chain stitches, turn and work 1 slip stitch in every chain stitch. Thread the tie in the middle row with eyelet holes at the top of shorts – start mid front.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 7 chain stitches
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = 2 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: = work 2 treble crochets in next stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = 2 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: Work 2 treble crochets around chain stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = 4 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these treble crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn over trough all 5 loops on hook
symbols = 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
symbols = shows previous round, round has already been worked. Begin on next round.
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 190-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Veronique wrote:

Comment faire une ré hausse car je ne comprends pas les explications Merci de vos reponses

10.11.2023 - 09:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, la réhausse consiste en des rangs raccourcis que vous allez crocheter en rangs, à partir du milieu dos, en crochetant le nombre de mailles indiqué pour votre taille, alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, en crochetant 10 à 15 mailles en plus à la fin de chaque rang jusqu'à ce que vous ayez crocheté 140 à 240 mailles au total, le dernier rang est sur l'envers, tournez, crochetez sur l'endroit jusqu'au milieu dos, puis continuez en rond comme indiqué au paragraphe suivant. Bon crochet!

10.11.2023 - 11:28

country flag Beth Noll wrote:

The chart for A.5 is wrong. The row that represents the 4th row of the charted pattern shows ch3 then ch2 then ch3 between the groupings of 5 DC (US terms) worked into the ch4 space of the previous row. This clearly should be ch3 SC in SC below (shown by symbol "X") then ch3. I've corrected the chart for my own use but can't find a way to attach it here for others to use.

21.08.2023 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Noll, on 4th row in A.5 you start with 1 chain (see 16th symbol), then crochet the sc in the stitch below the symbol (cross = see 7th symbol) and not between dc from previous rounds (this applyes only to sc from 8th symbol). Happy crocheting!

21.08.2023 - 15:21

country flag Bianca wrote:

Hallo ich finde in der Anleitung A1 nicht und wenn ich nach der Anleitung gehen hab ich ja wenn ich A.1.a und A1.b beginne mit der Ringe hab ich keinen Luftmaschenbogen sondern in der Reihe davor die 2cm FM aber den Luftmaschenbogen bekomm ich ja nur durch stäbchen hin ? Verwirrt mich etwas und finde A1 nicht am Diagramm eingezeichnet

30.07.2023 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bianca, die Reihe mit dem Sternchen im Diagram zeigt die Maschen von der vorrigen Reihe (auch wenn in A.1 Feste Maschen und keine Stäbchen sind), häkeln Sie ab der 2. Reihe im Diagram (die, die nach der mit dem Sternchen kommt). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

31.07.2023 - 11:57

country flag Cassy wrote:

Hallo ich hab mal ne Frage. In der Anleitung steht wenn man bei der hinten Mitte zugenommen hat, also nach dem 10 Runden 2 Stäbchen und 3 Runden 4 Stäbchen sind es insgesamt 28-28-28-32-32-32 zugenommen Stäbchen. Aber müsste da an Dritter Stelle nicht auch 32 Stäbchen sein ? Weil 10 mal 2 Stäbchen plus 3 mal 4 Stäbchen zunehmen sind ja 32 Stäbchen oder verstehe ich da was falsch?

15.07.2023 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Cassy, also ja im 4., 5. und 6. Grösse wird man insgesamt 32 Maschen bei der hinteren Mitte zunehmen: 2 Maschen 10 Mal + 4 Maschen 3 Mal. Welche Größe häkeln Sie?

27.07.2023 - 10:55

country flag Camille wrote:

Bonjour, après avoir finit les tours en mailles serrées pour avoir 2cm en hauteur au début, la circonférence est vraiment très grande. J‘ai pourtant fait le bon nombre de maille pour la taille L. Est ce que cela va se rétrécir encore en faisant les diagrammes? Merci

21.05.2023 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Camille, si vous avez bien 26 brides = 10 cm en largeur, les 240 mailles serrées du début du short doivent mesurer 92 cm, soit 46 cm à plat, comme indiqué dans le schéma. Pensez à bien vérifier votre tension et à bien la conserver quand vous crochetez, adaptez la taille du crochet si besoin. Bon crochet!

22.05.2023 - 13:00

country flag Mackenzie Smallen wrote:

I’m confused about the sizing because I have a small, 63cm waist, but the size guide says that is XXXL\r\nSecond, when I cast all 244 chains for the size small measurement, it ended up being twice as many chains as would fit around my waist. 160 chains seems better for me, but that would obviously mess up the whole pattern.\r\nThird, I’m confused about the “Information for pattern” and how it is exactly meant to integrate into the actual “shorts” instructions. Do I follow both?

08.05.2023 - 04:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mackenzie, the measurements in chart are taken flat, so that the 62 cm in XXXL are 124 cm in circumference, and in size S the width is 38 cm = 76 cm around. You cast on 244 chains but you will skip chain stitches evenly to get only 196 sc after 1st round (you cast on more chains than you need sc since the foundation chain is most often much tighter). Happy crocheting!

08.05.2023 - 09:37

country flag Katalin wrote:

Hello, I think the last row of diagram A1b is incorrect. It shows 4 stitches while the previous rows have 5 stitches. Due to this I ended up with too few stiches after raising the back of the piece where still 220 are needed for size M when I need to start with A2.

08.08.2022 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katalin, A.1b is worked on first row over 4 sts from the first row (then you get 55 repeats of 4 sts = 220 sts), and on the last row, you should work also 4 sts to keep the 220 sts. Happy crocheting!

09.08.2022 - 09:09

country flag Katalin wrote:

A magyar leírás 3.5-es tűt említ a minta kezdeténél, de az ajánlott tűméret 2.5 és az angol szöveg is 2.5-et ír a minta kezdésénél.

02.08.2022 - 11:53

country flag Jette wrote:

Taljen laves af fastmasker, . Når man så skal lave hulmønster A1 a+b viser diagrammet stangmasker, hvor der står, at denne række er hæklet ?? Men man har jo KUN lavet fastmasker indtil nu.

18.07.2022 - 04:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, det kan vi godt se, men du hækler ikke første række i diagrammet, den viser bare i hvilke masker du skal hækle 2.række (=hulmønsteret) God fornøjelse!

02.08.2022 - 15:48

country flag Jette wrote:

Mange tak for billedet. Har nu købt Safran 01 og glæder mig til at komme i gang.

15.07.2022 - 23:42