DROPS / 187 / 40

Holiday Feeling by DROPS Design

Crocheted tunic with multi-colored yoke and fans, worked top down. Sizes S- XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Safran.

DROPS Design: Pattern no e-279
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-450-500-550-600-650 g color 13, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 20, rust
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 12, peach
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 06, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 50, light ice blue

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM / G/6 – or the size needed to get 20 double crochets and 11.5 rows or 20 treble crochets and 7.6 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON, Round (red) NO 605: 1 item for all sizes.

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (2)

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 4 chain stitches.

COLOR CHANGE:
When changing color at the beginning of a round, work the slip stitch at the end of the previous round with the new color.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

STRIPES:
ROUND 1: peach
ROUND 2: light ice blue
ROUND 3: denim blue
ROUND 4: rust
ROUND 5: light ice blue
ROUND 6: peach
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TUNIC:
You start by working the yoke back and forth from the back, over each shoulder and down to the front. Then you work a multi-colored edge around the whole yoke.
After the multi-colored edge, you work around the bottom edge of the yoke, both front and back, then work loose chain stitches for the armholes and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked at the end and sewn into the armholes.

YOKE:
Work 63-65-68-70-75-75 chain stitches with raspberry and hook size 4 mm / G/6.
ROW 1 (right side): Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4-6-3-5-4-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times = 51-53-55-57-61-61 treble crochets (including the first 4 chain stitches on the row).
ROW 2 (wrong side): Start on the row with a star in the diagrams and work A.1c (= 1 stitch), A.2b (= 2 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left, A.1a (= 2 stitches).
ROW 3: Work A.1a, A.1b until there is 1 stitch left, A.1c.
Repeat the last 2 rows of A.1a-A.1c until you have worked 9-9-11-11-11-13 rows (including row 1 where you skipped approx. every 5th chain stitch). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now divide the piece and work the left shoulder first – the first row is from the wrong side: Continue the pattern as before over the first 11-11-11-11-13-13 stitches, work 1 double crochet in the next stitch (= 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches on shoulder).
Repeat rows 2 and 3 in A.1a-A.1c + 1 extra double crochet/treble crochet towards the neck until you have worked 15-17-17-17-19-19 rows on the shoulder (= a total of 24-26-28-28-30-32 rows from the beginning of the yoke) – the last row is from the wrong side.
Work 18-19-20-21-21-21 chain stitches at the end of the last row (= stitches for neck on the front piece). Turn and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-2-3-4-4-4 chain stitches * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times (= 13-14-15-16-16-16 treble crochets), continue to end of row as before = 25-26-27-28-30-30 stitches on the front piece. Continue the pattern back and forth until you have worked 6-6-8-8-8-10 rows on the front piece – the last row is from the wrong side, work 1 chain stitch mid front (= split). Cut the strand, but leave approx. 20 cm / 8'' of strand end (will be used for assembly later).
Work the right shoulder:
Start from the wrong side, by the left shoulder and skip 27-29-31-33-33-33 treble crochets for the neck at the back = 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches on right shoulder. Continue the pattern from the row with a star in diagrams A.1a-A.1c, back and forth in the same way as on the left shoulder, but reversed; in other words you work 2 double crochets towards the neck as on the left shoulder – read CROCHET INFORMATION!
Repeat rows 2 and 3 in A.1a-A.1c + 1 extra double crochet/treble crochet towards the neck until you have worked 14-16-16-16-18-18 rows (= a total of 23-25-27-27-29-31 rows from the beginning of the yoke) - the last row is from the right side. Cut the strand.
Work 15-16-17-18-18-18 chain stitches and continue the pattern over the right shoulder from the wrong side. Turn and work the next row from the right side as far as the row of chain stitches, then work as follows: * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 3-4-5-6-6-6 chain stitches = 25-26-27-28-30-30 stitches on the right front piece. Continue the pattern until you have worked 6-6-8-8-8-10 rows on the right front piece. Sew the strand end from the split on the left front piece to the outermost double crochet (i.e. the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the last row worked on the right front piece).

Now work the 2 front pieces together from the right side as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each stitch/around each chain stitch over all stitches on the right front piece, 1 double crochet around the chain stitch mid front for the split and continue with 1 treble crochet in each stitch /around each chain stitch over all stitches on the left front piece = 51-53-55-57-61-61 treble crochets. There are now 31-33-37-37-39-43 rows on the yoke. The yoke measures 25-26-27-28-30-30 cm / 9 ¾"-10 ¼"-10 5/8"-11"-11 ¾"-11 ¾" x 34-36-41-41-43-47 cm / 13 3/8"-14 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 7/8"-18 ½".
Cut the strand. You now work an edge around the yoke.

EDGE AROUND THE YOKE WITH MULTI-COLORED PATTERN:
The edge is worked in the round and in STRIPES - see description above.
Change to peach and fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the first corner – see illustration of yoke!
Work 2 single crochets around each of the first 11 rows, 3 single crochets around each of the next 9-11-15-15-17-21 rows, 2 single crochets around each of the next 11 rows (= 71-77-89-89-95-107 single crochets along the side + 1 single crochet in 1st corner), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), 1 single crochet in each stitch between corners 2 and 3, but skip the same chain stitches as you skipped at the beginning of the yoke and AT THE SAME TIME increase 2-0-4-2-4-4 single crochets evenly between the corners (= 53-53-59-59-65-65 single crochets between corners 2 and 3), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), 2 single crochets around each of the first 11 rows, 3 single crochets around each of the next 9-11-15-15-17-21 rows, 2 single crochets around each of the next 11 rows (= 71-77-89-89-95-107 single crochets along the side), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), 1 single crochet in each stitch between corners 4 and 1, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-0-4-2-4-4 single crochets evenly spaced (= 53-53-59-59-65-65 single crochets between corners 4 and 1), work 3 chain stitches (= corner), finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet at the beginning of the round, then work 1 slip stitch in the next single crochet (= 2nd single crochet after the 3 chain stitches in the corner) – read COLOR CHANGE!

Continue with stripes and work pattern from the round with a star in the diagrams as follows: Work A.2a (shows how the round starts and ends), A.2b over the next 66-72-84-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-14-14-15-17 repeats), A.2c (= corner), A.2b over the next 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches (= 8-8-9-9-10-10 repeats), A.2c (= corner), A.2b over the next 66-72-84-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-14-14-15-17 repeats), A.2c (= corner), A.2b over the next 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches, A.2c (= corner).

When all the rounds in A.2a-A.2c have been worked, cut the strand and the 5 last rounds are folded down with right side to right side. Work chain-spaces with peach in the first round of single crochets (= round with peach):
Start around the chain-space in corner 1 and work * 1 single crochet on the right side of the light ice blue single crochet around the chain-space in the corner, 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in the first single crochet after the 3 chain stitches in the corner from the previous round, (3 chain stitches, skip the next single crochet and the single crochet where there is a single crochet already worked (light ice blue), work 1 single crochet in the next single crochet) as far as the 2nd single crochet in A.2c (= corner), work 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* 3 more times, i.e. it is worked the same way between 2nd and 3rd corner, between 3rd and 4th corner and between 4th and 1st corner. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the single crochet in the corner.

There are now 19-19-21-21-23-23 chain-spaces along the sides of both front and back pieces and 25-27-31-31-33-37 chain-spaces along each side of the yoke.

Change to raspberry and continue in the previous round worked with peach: 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 42-48-54-60-66-78 chain stitches (in side under sleeve), skip the next side (between corners 1 and 2 = armhole), 1 double crochet in the single crochet in corner 2, (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the first/next chain-space) as far as corner 3, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the single crochet in the corner, 40-48-54-60-66-78 chain stitches (in side under sleeve), skip the next side (between corners 3 and 4 = armhole), 1 double crochet in the single crochet in corner 4, (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the first/next chain-space) as far as corner 1, 3 chain stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
There are now 20-20-22-22-24-24 chain-spaces on the front and back pieces.

BODY:
Insert a marker thread mid front in the last round worked. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! The whole of the body is worked with raspberry.
Now work a round of chain-spaces (1 chain space = 3 chain stitches + 1 single crochet) around the last round with raspberry that was worked as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch on the start of round, * work a total of 10-12-14-16-18-20 chain spaces around the 40-48-54-60-66-78 chain stitches in the side under the sleeve, work 2 chain-spaces around each of the next 3-3-3-3-4-4 chain-spaces, 1 chain-space around each of the next 4 chain-spaces, 2 chain-spaces around each of the next 6-6-8-8-8-8 chain-spaces, 1 chain-space around each of the next 4 chain-spaces, 2 chain-spaces around each of the next 3-3-3-3-4-4 chain-spaces *, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 single crochet in the corner = 84-88-100-104-112-120 chain-spaces on the round.

Start on the round with a star in the diagrams and work in the round as follows:
Work A.3a (shows how the round starts and ends and replaces the first stitch on the round), work A.3b a total of 42-44-50-52-56-60 times on the round.
Work round 2 (= the round with an arrow) until the piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' from the marker thread.
Work round 3 until the piece measures approx. 23 cm from the marker thread.
Work round 4 until the piece measures approx 47-48-47-49-50-50 cm / 18 ½"-18 7/8"-18 ½"-19 ¼"-19 5/8"-19 5/8".
Cut and fasten the strand. The tunic measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth. They are worked top and down with raspberry and are sewn onto the body to finish. You work a large sleeve cap back and forth where you increase fans in each side.
Work 29 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and raspberry, turn and work A.6 (= over the first 8 chain stitches), A.5 over the next 16 chain stitches, A.4 over the last 5 chain stitches. Continue back and forth like this. When you have worked 4 rows with fans in height, continue working in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S and M:
Work the last row in the diagrams, but skip the last 10 chain stitches + 1 single crochet (= A.7) at the beginning of the last row worked = 5-5 rows with fans in height and there are 12-12 fans in width.

Sizes L and XL:
Continue back and forth and increase in each side as before (there will be 2 more fans in width for every row worked) until you have worked 6-6 rows with fans in height, but skip the last 10 chain stitches + 1 single crochet (= A.7) at the beginning of the last row worked = 6-6 rows with fans and 14-14 fans in width.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Continue back and forth and increase in each side as before (there will be 2 more fans in width for every row worked) until you have worked 7-7 rows with fans in height, but skip the last 10 chain stitches + 1 single crochet (= A.7) at the beginning of the last row worked = 7-7 rows with fans and 16-16 fans in width.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working fan-groups without increasing in each side as follows:
ROW 1: Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row, A.8 over all 12-12-14-14-16-16 fans, turn.
Repeat row 1 until you have worked a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 rows without increasing in the sides.
The sleeve is now finished. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLING SLEEVES:
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the armhole on each side of the body. Place the sleeve in the armhole so that the middle of the sleeve cap is at the top of the shoulder and divide the rest of the side between rows 1 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 down to the corner at the bottom of the armhole, the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 rows on the sleeve are placed along the armhole and as far as the marker thread in the side.
Start at the marker thread in the side. Work from the inside/wrong side of the sleeve, through both layers (i.e. sleeve and armhole): 1 single crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 single crochet *, work from *-* around the whole armhole. Cut the strand.
Work a round from the right side around the sleeve as follows:
Start in the chain-space in one of the fan groups under the sleeve, work round 3 in A.3b (A.3a shows how the round starts and finishes) around the whole sleeve. Cut and fasten strand.
Assemble the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the button onto the outermost stitch at top of left front piece.
Work a loop for the button with raspberry as follows. Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the outermost stitch at the top of the right front piece, work 8 chain stitches, fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the single crochet, cut and fasten strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= 1 single crochet around the chain stitch/chain-space
= 1 half double crochet in stitch/around chain-space
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= 1 double treble crochet in stitch
= work a bobble around chain-space as follows: work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 3 treble crochets around the same chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on each of the treble crochets, work 1 double crochet around the same chain-space, but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook
= the round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first single crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space - NOTE: change color when working the last slip stitch.
= the round begins with 2 chain stitches (replaces the first half double crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space on the round - NOTE: change color when working the last slip stitch.
= the round begins with 3 chain stitches (does not replace the first double crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space - NOTE: change color when working the last slip stitch.
= the round begins with 4 chain stitches (replaces the first treble crochet on the round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space.
= the row begins with 4 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet on the row).
= the row begins with 3 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet on the row).
= start on this row/round, previous row/round already worked!
= crochet direction
= illustration shows the yoke





Comments (2)

Neirynck Brigitteb 17.07.2018 - 16:31:

Je ne comprends pas le rang 2 ( début du travail ) merci

DROPS Design 17.07.2018 kl. 16:57:

Bonjour Mme Neirynck, au rang 2, on crochète sur l'envers les diagrammes A.1c, A.2b et A.1a en commençant au rang avec la flèche (pas l'étoile - la correction sera faite): A.1c (= 3 ml), puis on répète A.1b: *1 ml, sautez 1 m, 1 B dans la m suivante*, répétez de *-* jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m et terminez par 1 ml, sautez 1 m, 1 B dans la 4ème ml du début du rang précédent. Au rang 3, lisez de droite à gauche: A.1a, répétez A.1b et terminez par A.1c. Bon crochet!

Sabine 20.06.2018 - 13:15:

Cette tunique me plait bien, mais malheureusement les explications sont trop dispersées pour moi. Passer du haut du texte aux schémas en bas est assez éprouvant. J'aime quand même tous vos modèles.

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