DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 64.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Liljesjal

Knitted shawl with stripes and lace pattern, worked top down. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS 191-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-117
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Width at top: approx. 208 cm/82". Height in middle: approx. 104 cm/41".
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g color 18, light gray green
150 g color 15, purple haze
100 g color 01, off white
100 g color 10, fog

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
NOTE: Because of the number of stitches it is a good idea to divide the stitches onto several circular needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 (we used 3 circular needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9, each 80 cm/32" in length).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 64.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (when increasing evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
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SHAWL:
The shawl is worked top down from mid back. Because of the number of stitches, the shawl is worked back and forth on circular needle, but to have room for all the stitches it is a good idea to divide the stitches between several needles as described in DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE.

Cast on 9 stitches with circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and light gray green. Work 1 RIDGE - see description above. Insert a marker in the middle stitch on the row.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, make 1 yarn over – read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 2, make 1 yarn over, work the middle stitch in stockinette stitch (= the stitch with the marker), make 1 yarn over, knit 2, make 1 yarn over, finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch = 13 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.

Then continue with pattern as described below, with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side and the middle stitch in stockinette stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

Work A.1 as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A (= 1 stitch), A.1B (= 2 stitches), A.1C (= 1 stitch), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (=middle stitch), A.1A (= 1 stitch), A.1B (= 2 stitches), A.1C (= 1 stitch) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern as shown in the diagrams.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 25 in A.1 (the last row from the right side) increase 2 stitches evenly spaced (increase 1 stitch before the middle stitch and 1 stitch after the middle stitch so that there still are the same number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch – read INCREASE TIP-2).
When A.1 has been completed, there are 73 stitches on the needle. Change to off white.

Work A.2 as follows with off white: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.2A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.2B until there is 1 stitch left before the middle stitch (= 16 repeats of 2 stitches), A.2C (= 1 stitch), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.2B until there are 3 stitches left on the row (= 16 repeats of 2 stitches), A.2C (= 1 stitch) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern as shown in the diagrams.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 11 in A.2 (the last row from the right side) increase 6 stitches evenly spaced (increase 3 stitches before the middle stitch and 3 stitches after the middle stitch so that there still are the same number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch).
When A.2 has been completed, there are 107 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 21 cm measured along the middle stitch. Change to fog.

Work A.3 as follows with fog: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.3A (= 7 stitches), repeat A.3B until there are 8 stitches left before the middle stitch (= 3 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3C (= 8 stitches), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.3A (= 7 stitches), repeat A.3B until there are 10 stitches left on the row (= 3 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3C (= 8 stitches) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 25 in A.3 (the last row from the right side) increase 2 stitches evenly spaced (increase 1 stitch before the middle stitch and 1 stitch after the middle stitch).
When A.3 has been completed, there are 169 stitches on the needle. Change to light gray green.

Work A.2 again in the same way as described above, but with light gray green (there is now room for 40 repeats of A.2B on each side of middle).
AT THE SAME TIME on row 11 in A.2 increase 6 stitches evenly spaced (increase 3 stitches before the middle stitch and 3 stitches after the middle stitch).
When A.2 has been completed, there are 203 stitches on the needle. Change to purple haze.

Work A.4 as follows with purple haze: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.4A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.4B until there are 2 stitches left before the middle stitch (= 8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 2 stitches), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.4A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.4B until there are 4 stitches left on the row (= 8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 2 stitches) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 13 in A.4 (the last row from the right side) increase 2 stitches evenly spaced (increase 1 stitch before the middle stitch and 1 stitch after the middle stitch).
When A.4 has been completed, there are 237 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 49 cm measured along the middle stitch. Change to off white.

Work A.5 as follows with off white: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.5A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.5B until there is 1 stitch left before the middle stitch (= 57 repeats of 2 stitches), A.5C (= 1 stitch), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.5A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.5B until there are 3 stitches left on the row (= 57 repeats of 2 stitches), A.5C (= 1 stitch) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 5 in A.5 (the last row from the right side) increase 2 stitches evenly spaced (increase 1 stitch before the middle stitch and 1 stitch after the middle stitch).
When A.5 has been completed, there are 251 stitches on the needle. Change to light gray green.

Work A.6 as follows with light gray green: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.6A (= 7 stitches), repeat A.6B until there are 8 stitches left before the middle stitch (= 9 repeats of 12 stitches), A.6C (= 8 stitches), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.6A (= 7 stitches), repeat A.6B until there are 10 stitches left on the row (= 9 repeats of 12 stitches), A.6C (= 8 stitches) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 37 in A.6 (the last row from the right side) increase 2 stitches evenly spaced (increase 1 stitch before the middle stitch and 1 stitch after the middle stitch).
When A.6 has been completed, there are 333 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 78 cm along the middle stitch. Change to off white.

Work A.7 as follows with off white: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.7A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.7B until there is 1 stitch left before the middle stitch (= 81 repeats of 2 stitches), A.7C (= 1 stitch), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.7A (= 1 stitch), repeat A.7B until there are 3 stitches left on the row (= 81 repeats of 2 stitches), A.7C (= 1 stitch) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 7 in A.7 (the last row from the right side) increase 4 stitches evenly spaced (increase 2 stitches before the middle stitch and 2 stitches after the middle stitch).
When A.7 has been completed, there are 357 stitches on the needle. Change to fog.

Work A.8 as follows with fog: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.8A (= 16 stitches), repeat A.8B until there are 16 stitches left before the middle stitch (= 9 repeats of 16 stitches), A.8C (= 16 stitches), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.8A (= 16 stitches), repeat A.8B until there are 18 stitches left on the row (= 9 repeats of 16 stitches), A.8C (= 16 stitches) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch.
When A.8 has been completed, there are 385 stitches on the row. Change to light gray green.

Work A.5 again in the same way as described earlier in the text, but with light gray green (there is now room for 94 repeats of A.5B on each side of middle).
AT THE SAME TIME on row 5 in A.5 (the last row from the right side) increase 14 stitches evenly spaced (increase 7 stitches before the middle stitch and 7 stitches after the middle stitch).
When A.5 has been completed, there are 411 stitches on the needle. Change to purple haze.

Work A.9 as follows with purple haze: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.9A (= 11 stitches), repeat A.9B until there are 12 stitches left before the middle stitch (= 15 repeats of 12 stitches), A.9C (= 12 stitches), 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.9A (= 11 stitches), repeat A.9B until there are 14 stitches left on the row (= 15 repeats of 12 stitches), A.9C (= 12 stitches) and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. When A.9 has been completed, there are 523 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 104 cm/41" along the middle stitch.
Loosely bind off with knit from the right side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.04.2019
Correction: When A.9 has been completed, there are 523 stitches on the needle

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs, on the next row work the one yarn over and drop the other (= hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Marcia Rachel wrote:

Bonjour je trouve que vos explications ne correspondent pas du tout avec les graphiques c'est bien dommage sa gâche tout le plaisir car il est vraiment beau ce châle

17.11.2021 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marcia Rachel, qu'entendez-vous par là? Avez-vous besoin d'aide pour la lecture des diagrammes? Cette leçon explique comment lire des diagrammes et pourra sans doute vous aider, n'hésitez pas à expliquer ici ce que vous n'avez pas compris pour que l'on puisse vous aider à le réaliser. Bon tricot!

18.11.2021 - 08:59

country flag Ben Belkacem Nadège wrote:

Bonsoir je voudrais faire le chale au aiguilles circulaires, mes je débute aurait vous une vidéo D avance merci

20.06.2021 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ben Belkacem, nous n'avons pas de vidéo particulière pour ce modèle, vous trouverez en bas de page une liste de vidéos des principales techniques utilisées dans ce châle et également une liste de leçon pouvant vous aider. Bon tricot!

21.06.2021 - 08:02

country flag Margit Brunnhuber wrote:

Hallo Drops-Team, bitte kann man diese Anleitungen auch runterladen? Dies ist ein Tablet und da ist kein Drucker. Wenn es möglich ist, dann bitte eine genaue Erklärung, wie es funktioniert. Oder kann man es mit einer E-mail an einen PC senden? Liebe Grüße Margit Brunnhuber

27.03.2021 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margit, Sie können die Anleitung als pdf drucken. Dies passiert ebenso wie beim normalen Druckvorgang, nur dass sie als Ausgabeformat pdf angeben. Dann haben Sie die Anleitung als pdf-Datei gespeichert. Gutes Gelingen!

04.04.2021 - 23:00

country flag Lis Batalla wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke mønsteret. A1 er det et mønster og så gør igen og igen ???? De midterste masker er 2. Men der står at man skal markerer 1 midter maske. Jeg håber i kan hjælpe mig. Kærlig hilsen Lis Batalla

06.02.2021 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lis. Du legger opp 9 masker og maske nr. 5 = midtmaske. Så øker du til 13 masker. Midtmasken er fremdeles den samme. Så begynner du på diagram A.1 slik: strikk 2 masker i riller + A.1a+A.1b+A.1c, da kommer du til midtmasken som strikkes i glattstrikk og du er halvveis på pinnen. Nå strikker du andre halvdel slik: A.1c+A.1b+A.1a+2 masker i riller = 2 masker i riller på hver side og 4 masker på hver side av midtmasken = 13 maske. God Fornøyelse!

12.02.2021 - 13:17

country flag Bogusia wrote:

Witam serdecznie. Jaka ilość włóczki jest potrzebna przy wykonaniu chusty tylko jednym kolorem? Pozdrawiam

10.06.2019 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Bogusiu! Będziesz potrzebować ok. 300 g włóczki (6 motków). Pozdrawiamy!

11.06.2019 - 07:54

country flag Bente Bigset wrote:

Eg er no ferdig med sjalet, og begynte å felle av med rett i frå retta, slik det står i oppskrifta. Det syns eg ikkje vart fint, så det tok eg opp og felte av med vrangt frå retta. Det vart finast :-)

01.05.2019 - 19:42

country flag Bente Bigset wrote:

Hei! Eg har no strikka dette sjalet ferdig. Masketalet stemmer heile vegen når kvar mønsterrapport er ferdig, men ikkje til slutt. Eg får 523 maskar, i oppskrifta står 463 maskar. Når eg reknar ut masketalet som står oppgitt i rapporten når siste rapporten er ferdig i oppskrifta, vert det også 523 maskar. Er det feil i oppskrifta?

29.04.2019 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bente. Det har du helt rett i, det korrekte maskeantallet etter at A.9 er ferdig i høyden er 523, som du sier. Vi har nå rettet dette i oppskriften. Takk for beskjed, og god fornøyelse

29.04.2019 - 13:25

country flag Jette Krog wrote:

Hvordan får man strikketøjet fordelt over 3 rundpinde, uden at de glider af? Det forstår jeg simpelthen ikke?

10.03.2019 - 17:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, Normalt falder maskerne ikke af rundpindene... men hvis du strikker meget løst, så kan det være du er nødt til at sætte et elastik i hver ende af de rundpinde du ikke strikker over. Eller bruge yderligere en rundpind. God fornøjelse!

12.03.2019 - 14:08

country flag Susanne wrote:

Hallo, bei der 3. Erklärung der Stricksymbole heißt es, dass der Umschlag in der RR links abgestrickt wird ... gemäß Strickschrift wird der Umschlag in RR mit rechten Maschen auch rechts gestrickt. Wie sollte das Muster denn nun korrekt gestrickt werden?

05.01.2019 - 16:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, die Umschläge werden ja je nach der folgenden Reihe (entweder rechts oder links) gestrickt - eine Korrektur erfolgt sicher bald. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.01.2019 - 10:20

country flag Levieux wrote:

Bjr, je ne comprends pourquoi une aiguille circulaire, ce chale ne se travaille pas en rond?

12.07.2018 - 07:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Levieux, tout à fait, le châle se tricote bien en allers et retours, mais pour avoir suffisamment de place pour toutes les mailles, on utilise une aiguille circulaire de 80 cm de long - et il est même recommandé d'en utiliser plusieurs vers la fin pour plus de confort. Bon tricot!

12.07.2018 - 09:17