Summer Evening Cardigan

Knitted jacket with round yoke, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk.

DROPS 191-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-135
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-500 g color 7219, pistachio

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24" or 32" ) SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 – for neck.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 126 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining 116 stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 29) = 4.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch. On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. NOTE Do not increase over the bands.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1). The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row purl the yarn overs to leave holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are made from the right side!
Start 6 stitches before the marker thread in the side, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, continue with A.3 (marker thread sits in the middle of A.3), knit 2 and make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 2 stitches before A.3, knit 2 together, knit A.3 (= 8 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the left band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side; knit 1, knit 2 together 1 yarn over and knit to end of row. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. Then work the other 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 7-7½-8-7-7-7½ cm between each.
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JACKET:
The yoke and body are worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 126-130-134-142-146-154 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and BabyAlpaca Silk. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work 6 rows stockinette stitch for the lining, with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH in each side towards mid front – see description of GARTER STITCH above.
Then work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on the row and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. You have now worked the folding edge.
Work 7 rows stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and increase AT THE SAME TIME 29-33-37-29-33-33 stitches evenly on the last row – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 155-163-171-171-179-187 stitches. Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch and work BUTTONHOLES on the band – see description above, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 18-19-20-20-21-22 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern like this and increase as shown in A.1A. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed, there are 227-239-251-291-305-319 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 15-15-15-17-17-17 cm / 5 7/8"-5 7/8"-5 7/8"-6 5/8"-6 5/8"-6 5/8" from the folding edge on the neck. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 23-27-31-23-33-31 stitches evenly on row = 250-266-282-314-338-350 stitches.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece without working the stitches: The first marker thread is inserted after the first 41-43-45-51-56-60 stitches (i.e. after the front piece), 2nd marker thread after the next 48-52-56-60-62-60 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker thread after the next 72-76-80-92-102-110 stitches (= back piece) and 4th marker thread after the next 48-52-56-60-62-60 stitches (= sleeve). There are 41-43-45-51-56-60 stitches left after the last marker thread on the front piece.
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Continue to increase to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) until you have increased a total of 10-13-15-15-16-18 times on each side of the 4 marker threads = 330-370-402-434-466-494 stitches.
Continue working as before without increasing to raglan, but to avoid breaking the line of holes on the raglan line, work A.2 (= 6 stitches) in each transition between body and sleeves (the marker threads sit in the middle of A.2).
When the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11"-11 ¾"-12 ½", work the next row as follows from the right side: Work the first 51-56-60-66-72-78 stitches in garter stitch and stockinette stitch as before (= front piece), place the next 68-78-86-90-94-96 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 92-102-110-122-134-146 stitches stockinette stitch (= back piece), place the next 68-78-86-90-94-96 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 51-56-60-66-72-78 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! 

BODY:
= 210-230-250-274-302-330 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve in each side. Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front; in addition work A.3 over the middle 8 stitches in each side (marker threads sit in the middle of A.3). Remember buttonholes on left band.
When the piece measures 5-5-5-3-3-3 cm / 1 7/8"-1 7/8"-1 7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" from the separation, increase 1 stitch on each side of A.3 in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm / 2'' a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in each side = 230-250-270-298-326-354 stitches. When the piece measures 31 cm from the separation, work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off with knit from the right side, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 8th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 68-78-86-90-94-96 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. Work A.3 over the middle 8 stitches under the sleeve; the remaining stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 2-2-2-1-1-1 cm / ¾"-¾"-¾"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" from the separation, decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.3 – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this a total of 8-11-15-16-17-17 times in Size S: Every 6th round, in Size M: Every 4th round, in Size L: Alternately every 2nd and 3rd round and in Sizes XL + XXL + XXXL: Every 2nd round = 60-64-66-68-72-76 stitches.
Continue working in the round until the piece measures approx. 17-16-14-12-11-11 cm / 6 5/8"-6 ¼"-5 ½"-4 5/8"-4 ¼"-4 ¼" from the separation, but adjust so that the decreases under the sleeve are finished (NOTE: shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke).
On the next round increase 10-6-4-12-8-4 stitches evenly on round = 70-70-70-80-80-80 stitches. Then work A.4 in the round (= 7-7-7-8-8-8 repeats of 10 stitches). When A.4 has been completed there are 84-84-84-96-96-96 stitches on the needle. Work 6 rounds of stockinette stitch. The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= folding edge). Work 6 rounds of stockinette stitch and bind off, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the lining in the neck towards the wrong side and fasten neatly with small, loose stitches. Do the same around the bottom of both sleeves. Sew on the buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Lynne wrote:

I have just started to work the sleeves in the round. Directionally, when I follow A3 for underarm pattern and also with the method for decreasing, does it make a difference? For example I picked up the 8 sts then commenced my first row so that the 8sts are at the end of the round. Does this effect the way the sts lean in anyway ? Decreased sts slope away from underarm and I wondered if the A3 pattern changes in anyway as a result?

28.05.2022 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynne, that's okay how you did it, start then to decrease 2 sts before A.3 with k2 tog, then work A.3 and decrease the first 2 sts after A.3 with slip 1, K1, psso. You have so decreased 1 stitch on each side of A.3. Happy knitting!

30.05.2022 - 08:29

country flag Deborah Larson wrote:

First time knitting top down & following graphs. I found the instructions & graphs easy to follow. Best thing about top down knitting is that you can try it on as you go. Very pleased with results. Thankyou

13.05.2022 - 04:07

country flag Pia Olsson wrote:

Hej! Jag har stickat klart mönstret på oket i storlek M. I beskrivningen står det att det ska finnas 239 maskor men jag har 272 maskor inklusive framkantsmaskorna. Jag har uppenbarligen gjort något allvarligt fel i mönstret, kan ni förstå vad som har blivit fel? Mönstret ser helt rätt ut när jag tittar på det. Hälsningar Pia

06.03.2022 - 09:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, i størrelse M strikkes diagrammet 19 gange, du starter med 8 masker i diagrammet, tager ud og slutter med 12 masker i diagrammet. 12x19=228+11=239 masker. Sæt gerne et lille mærke imellem hver af de 19 rapporter. God fornøjelse!

09.03.2022 - 10:18

country flag Alice wrote:

Why are the buttonholes on the left band instead of the right?

18.04.2021 - 01:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alice, what we think is the "traditional" placement of the buttons are rather arbitrary, if you look at fashion history (before the Edwardian period), buttons/ buttonholes were used on both sides, mostly depending on wheter the owner of the dress dressed herself, or somebody else helped her, but also on the prefernace of the dressmaker. In our times, pllacement of buttons/ buttonholes can change for example, if someone is left handed. However, if you prefer your buttons on the other side, you can easily but the buttonholes differently. Happy Knitting!

18.04.2021 - 04:02

country flag Kat B wrote:

I believe the pattern is set so the buttonholes are made on the LF side of the sweater, if I prefer my buttonholes on the Rt side can I move the A.1B to the Rt of A.1A while also removing the A.1A last row on the Rt & placing it instead on the 1st row on the LF. Would I achieve what I need to make the buttonholes on the Rt? Thank you so much for all the help.

18.09.2020 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kat B, you can work A.1 as explained, A.1B is just worked to make the pattern the same on each side, just decrease for the buttonholes in the right front band (instead of left band in the pattern) when stated for your size (or adjust as you like them to be). Happy knitting!

21.09.2020 - 08:20

country flag Kat B wrote:

Is the 1st row After the Cast On row a Purl row? Thank you.

14.09.2020 - 00:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear KatB, on the first row after cast on knit all stitches from RS (= first of the 6 rows in stocking stitch). Happy knitting!

14.09.2020 - 09:26

country flag Kat B wrote:

I've gotten to Row 14, which is an INC row but also a Purl Row. Am I to INC on the Purl side or have I somehow miscounted my rows? 6 rows of stocking knit; 1 row for the fold & then 7 more rows of stocking knit with the last row (14) being the Inc row. I thought all Incs were done on the Knit side. Thank you.

11.09.2020 - 01:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear KatB, the 7th row after the fold will be a WS row, this means you will make the yarn over on the purl row. On next row from RS you will work as explained under YOKE (work now the yarn over twisted). Happy knitting!

11.09.2020 - 08:10

country flag Kat B wrote:

I LOVE this sweater but I don't know how to even start. Where does it say how many stitches are Cast On? And is this sweater done as 1 piece excluding the sleeves? Please help or maybe tell me what videos I need to watch. Thank You.

09.09.2020 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear KatB, our patterns always start with a description of techniques used in the pattern, then goto JACKET to see a description of the work, and start with NECK where you will find the number of stitches to cast on for your size. Happy knitting!

10.09.2020 - 09:29

country flag Fournière wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse rapide. Cordialement Martine

14.04.2020 - 22:47

country flag Fournière wrote:

Bonjour, dans le paragraphe empiecement après avoir fait les augmentations pour le raglan on continue jusqu'à 22 cm Mais à partir d'où ? Du début de l'ouvrage ou du rang de cassure du col ? Merci pour votre réponse car j'en suis à ce niveau et je ne sais pas quoi faire. Cordialement Martine

13.04.2020 - 13:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fournière, mesurez à partir du rang de montage, ainsi, vous aurez bien 22 cm depuis le montage et 21 cm (+ 2 cm d'épaules) comme dans le schéma quand l'ourlet sera replié sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

14.04.2020 - 12:46