DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Myosotis

Sweater with round yoke, multi-colored Nordic pattern and ¾-sleeves with flounce, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS 191-9
DROPS design: Pattern cm-085
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-450-500-550-650-700 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-100 g color 29, sea green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 10, pistachio
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 26, storm blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.


DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for edges in garter stitch.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Cotton Merino 01, 17, 29, 15.
B) DROPS Cotton Merino 16, 01, 21, 09.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 100 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 35) = 2.9.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. If decreasing knit approx. every other and 3rd. stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 8 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 16 (marker thread in the side is in the middle of these 16 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if needed.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between sleeves and body. Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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SWEATER:
Yoke and body are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 100-106-110-116-120-126 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with pistachio. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, knit 1 round while increasing 35-38-43-37-42-45 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 135-144-153-153-162-171 stitches. Knit 1 round.
Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the yoke if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beg of the rnd.
Begin from right side with pistachio and knit 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches past marker, turn, turn, tighten yarn and purl 30-32- 34-36- 38-40. Turn,tighten yarn and knit 45-48- 51-54- 57-60, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60-64- 68-72-76- 80. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 75-80- 85-90- 95-100, turn, tighten yarn and purl 90-96- 102-108- 114-120. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

YOKE:
= 135-144-153-153-162-171 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 in the round (= 15-16-17-17-18-19 repetitions of 9 stitches). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow in A.1 increase 21-36-27-39-54-45 stitches evenly = 156-180-180-192-216-216 stitches. Work A.1 (there is now room for 13-15-15-16-18-18 repetitions of 12 stitches).
When A.1 is done, knit 1 round while with off white increasing 4-0-0-8-4-4 stitches evenly = 160-180-180-200-220-220 stitches.
Work A.2 in the round (= 8-9-9-10-11-11 repetitions of 20 stitches). Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in A.2. When A.2 has been worked, there are 240-270-270-300-330-330 stitches on needle. Then work with off white until finished measurements.
Knit 1 round while increasing 8-2-10-12-2-10 stitches evenly = 248-272-280-312-332-340 stitches.
Work next round as follows: Work 36-39-41-46-51-54 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker thread, work 52-58-58-64-64-62 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread, work 72-78-82-92-102-108 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread, work 52-58-58-64-64-62 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread and work the remaining 36-39-41-46-51-54 stitches (= ½ back piece).
On next round increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4th round 4-5-7-7-8-9 times in total = 280-312-336-368-396-412 stitches.
Work until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11"-11 ¾"-12 ½" from cast-on edge mid front. Work next round as follows: Work 40-44-48-53-59-63 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), slip the next 60-68-72-78-80-80 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 80-88-96-106-118-126 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-72-78-80-80 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 40-44-48-53-59-63 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Remove all markers/marker threads.
Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 176-192-212-232-260-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeves = 88-96-106-116-130-140 stitches between marker threads. Begin round at one of the marker threads and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm / 2 3/8'' 4 times in total in each side = 192-208-228-248-276-296 stitches. Work until piece measures 26 cm from division.
Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 190-209-228-247-285-304. Work A.3 in the round (= 10-11-12-13-15-16 repetitions of 19 stitches). Continue pattern like this. When A.3 has been worked, there are 270-297-324-351-405-432 stitches on needle. Work 2 ridges in the round over all stitches. Bind off by knitting but make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22"-22 ¾"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/8"-26" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 60-68-72-78-80-80 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-76-82-88-92-94 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under sleeve and begin round at the marker thread.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1-1-1 cm/1"-3/4"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 8-11-13-15-16-15 times in total = 52-54-56-58-60-64 stitches.
Work until piece measures 25-24-22-21-19-18 cm / 9 ¾"-9 3/8"-8 5/8"-8 ¼"-7 3/8"-7" from division. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 2 ridges in the round over all stitches. Then knit 2 rounds and increase AT THE SAME TIME 16-14-12-10-25-21 stitches evenly on first round = 68-68-68-68-85-85 stitches. Switch back to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work A.4 in the round (= 4-4-4-4-5-5 repetitions of 17 stitches). When A.4 has been worked, there are 108-108-108-108-135-135 stitches on needle. Work 2 ridges in the round. Bind off by knitting but make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.
Sleeve measures approx. 34-33-31-30-28-27 cm / 13 3/8"-13"-12 1/8"-11 ¾"-11"-10 5/8" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction under elevation.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit with off white
symbols = knit with pistachio
symbols = knit with sea green
symbols = knit with storm blue
symbols = purl with off white
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with off white, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with off white, on next round knit yarn over to make holes
symbols = knit 2 together with off white
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 with off white, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together with off white, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Nicola Sewell wrote:

Hi i was just wondering your pattern state amount of yarn in grams. But you wouldnt happen to know what would it be in meters or yards?

10.08.2023 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Nicola, All the details of our yarns (including meterage/yardage) are found in our list of yarns under Yarns and Needles at the top of the page. For Drops Cotton Merino, each 50 g ball has approx. 120 yds (110 m). Happy crafting!

11.08.2023 - 06:47

country flag Olena wrote:

Vorrei lavorare questo modello ma il fiore all'estrema destra sembra decisamente storto rispetto all'altro , cosa che in foto non risulta così . Dipende dagli aumenti sottostanti ? Potete aiutarmi ? Grazie in anticipo !

16.02.2021 - 07:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Olena, i fiori devono essere in linea: controlli di aver lavorato correttamente. Buon lavoro!

16.02.2021 - 22:29

country flag Riviere Francoise wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai bien avancé mon ouvrage et je suis sur le diagramme A.3 rang 8. le point envers du rg 8 correspond au jete torse du rg 7. Comment fait-on un point envers torse. Merci !

17.03.2020 - 08:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rivière, pour tricoter une maille torse, on la tricote en piquant le brin arrière au lieu du brin avant, piquez dans le brin arrière du jeté au lieu du brin avant pour les tricoter torse à l'endroit ou torse à l'envers - cf time code 1:13 dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

17.03.2020 - 10:08

country flag Riviere Francoise wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai toujours un choix difficile lorsque je dois choisir la taille. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer à quelle taille europeenne correspond le S et le M. Merci !

09.02.2020 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rivière, mesurez un vêtement analogue dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du modèle que vous souhaitez réaliser, c'est la méthode la plus fiable pour trouver votre taille - plus d'infos sur les mesures ici. Bon tricot!

10.02.2020 - 09:24

country flag Aylin wrote:

Where do I find this pattern in Spanish? Thank you

30.10.2019 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Aylin! Please see HERE. Happy knitting!

30.10.2019 - 18:45

country flag Pascaline wrote:

Re-bonjour excusez-moi d'insister mais on voit au 20e rang case 23 que la base de la dernière partie de la fleur supérieure gauche commence après une longue rangée blanche, alors que toujours sur le rang 23, case 8 , la base de la dernière partie de la fleur est décalée .

13.03.2019 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascaline, Correction réponse précédente - les diagrammes sont justes ainsi, on augmente 1 m entre les 2 fleurs au 20ème rang, le rang 21 se trouve ainsi décalé car cette maille n'existe pas auparavant, mais en tricotant, les mailles à droite du premier pétale seront bien alignés: A.2 commence par 2 m naturel puis 4 m vert océan. Bon tricot!

13.03.2019 - 16:09

country flag Pascaline wrote:

Bonjour, il semble bien y avoir un problème avec le motif A2. Sur la deuxième rangée de motif à partir du treizième rang, le pétale supérieur droit n'est plus symétrique par rapport aux autres. Merci

13.03.2019 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascaline, sauf erreur de ma part, sur le 2ème rang de la 2ème rangée de fleur, on a bien 5 mailles naturel entre chaque fleur (on commence par 3 m naturel, on a 5 m naturel entre les 2 premières fleurs et on termine par 2 m naturel). Bon tricot!

13.03.2019 - 15:16

country flag Gladys Hatcher wrote:

The chart A2 has a Defect. Round 20 is off

30.12.2018 - 00:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hatcher, A.2 is correct, just make sure after the increase stitch that the pattern will continue as the other flower to get it working right. Happy knitting!

02.01.2019 - 12:04

country flag Barbara wrote:

Witam, Mam kłopot z interpretacją fragmentu instrukcji. Po dodaniu wszystkich oczek na reglan powinnam przerabiać bez dodawania aż długość robótki wyniesie 24 cm (dla rozmiaru M), mierząc od rzędu nabierania oczek. O którym rzędzie mowa? Pierwszym w którym nabierałam oczka na reglan? Z góry dziękuję za pomoc! Pozdrawiam.

24.08.2018 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Barbaro! Chodzi o pierwszy rząd na początku robótki (czyli od dekoltu). Pozdrawiamy

28.08.2018 - 19:13

country flag Berit Alice J. Collert wrote:

Beklager ,over en linje ang.lengde til ermhull.

04.06.2018 - 20:04