DROPS / 189 / 2

Sandy's Love by DROPS Design

Crocheted blanket with granny squares. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern w-711
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: approx. 80 cm x 119 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g colour 101, light blue
150 g colour 100, light wash
150 g colour 41, mustard
150 g colour 07, heather
100 g colour 35, vanilla
100 g colour no 33, medium pink
100 g colour 38, raspberry
100 g colour 05, light purple
100 g colour 58, powder pink
100 g colour 30, grey blue
50 g colour 48, petrol
50 g colour 21, light mint green
50 g colour 25, moss green

Blanket worked with one colour = 900 g Paris.

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically. One square measures approx. 13 x 13 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.65£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

COLOUR COMBINATION (applies to crochet squares):
SQUARE 1:
ROUND 1: light wash
ROUND 2: light purple
ROUND 3: heather
ROUND 4: mustard
ROUND 5: medium pink

SQUARE 2:
ROUND 1: powder pink
ROUND 2: heather
ROUND 3: mustard
ROUND 4: grey blue
ROUND 5: light wash

SQUARE 3:
ROUND 1: raspberry
ROUND 2: heather
ROUND 3: medium pink
ROUND 4: mustard
ROUND 5: vanilla

SQUARE 4:
ROUND 1: mustard
ROUND 2: raspberry
ROUND 3: heather
ROUND 4: moss green
ROUND 5: light mint green

SQUARE 5:
ROUND 1: medium pink
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: heather
ROUND 4: light purple
ROUND 5: light wash

SQUARE 6:
ROUND 1: vanilla
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: heather
ROUND 4: raspberry
ROUND 5: medium pink

SQUARE 7:
ROUND 1: medium pink
ROUND 2: heather
ROUND 3: moss green
ROUND 4: light mint green
ROUND 5: vanilla

SQUARE 8:
ROUND 1: powder pink
ROUND 2: light purple
ROUND 3: vanilla
ROUND 4: grey blue
ROUND 5: light wash

SQUARE 9:
ROUND 1: light wash
ROUND 2: grey blue
ROUND 3: mustard
ROUND 4: heather
ROUND 5: powder pink

SQUARE 10:
ROUND 1: vanilla
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: medium pink
ROUND 4: heather
ROUND 5: raspberry

SQUARE 11:
ROUND 1: mustard
ROUND 2: heather
ROUND 3: raspberry
ROUND 4: light mint green
ROUND 5: light purple

SQUARE 12:
ROUND 1: mustard
ROUND 2: vanilla
ROUND 3: raspberry
ROUND 4: light purple
ROUND 5: powder pink

SQUARE 13:
ROUND 1: light purple
ROUND 2: powder pink
ROUND 3: grey blue
ROUND 4: petrol
ROUND 5: light mint green

SQUARE 14:
ROUND 1: vanilla
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: heather
ROUND 4: petrol
ROUND 5: light wash

SQUARE 15:
ROUND 1: heather
ROUND 2: grey blue
ROUND 3: light wash
ROUND 4: petrol
ROUND 5: powder pink

SQUARE 16:
ROUND 1: vanilla
ROUND 2: powder pink
ROUND 3: raspberry
ROUND 4: heather
ROUND 5: moss green

SQUARE 17:
ROUND 1: vanilla
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: heather
ROUND 4: light wash
ROUND 5: grey blue

SQUARE 18:
ROUND 1: heather
ROUND 2: raspberry
ROUND 3: mustard
ROUND 4: light purple
ROUND 5: powder pink

YARN CHANGE TIP:
To avoid fastening many strands the yarn ends can be fastened from the beginning of round along the way as follows:
ROUND 1: Place cast-on strand together with chain stitch ring and work around this the entire round, then cut the cast-on yarn.
ROUNDS 2-5: Work the first 3 chain stitches with double yarn of the new colour (yarn end + yarn from ball), then continue with 1 strand from the ball, the yarn end can be cut. At the end of each round, the yarn end from this round must be fastened, i.e. on every square there are 5 strands to fasten.
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BLANKET:
The blanket consists of 54 squares. work all squares first, then work them together and work an edge around the entire blanket at the end.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Begin with hook size 4.5 mm and Paris and work PATTERN according to diagram A.1. Switch colour on every round and work 3 squares of every COLOUR COMBINATION - see explanation above = 54 squares. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! 1 square measures approx. 13 x 13 cm. Fasten the strands while working - read YARN CHANGE TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Place squares with correct square number as shown in illustration/chart (6 squares in width and 9 squares in length). Square number on illustration/chart refers to crochet squares with same number explained below COLOUR COMBINATION. 
Work squares together in rows alongside, then work the rows together across.
Work them together as follows:
Place 2 squares together wrong side against wrong side. Work around both layers with colour 101, light blue: ** 1 double crochet around corner, * 3 chain stitches, skip the next 2 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in next chain space *. Work from *-* until and with corner (= 6 chain spaces) and work 2 chain stitches (= transition to the next 2 squares) **. Repeat from **-** along the entire row and finish with 1 double crochet around the last corners. Fasten off. Work like this until all rows have been worked together along. Then work the rows together the same way across.

EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire blanket with colour 101, light blue.
Start working in a corner on the blanket. Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch around the chain stitches on the corner and work as follows:
3 chain stitches (replaces 1 treble crochet), 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet, 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet, 2 chain stitches = 1st corner. Then work as follows along the side:
** Skip 2 treble crochets, * 2 treble crochets around the chain-space, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 treble crochets *, work from *-* 5 times, 1 treble crochet around the chain-space in the corner of the square, 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around the corner of next square **, work from **-** until 2nd corner of blanket. Around the corner work: 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet, 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet and 2 chain stitches.
Work from **-** until the 3rd corner of blanket, work around the corner as before.
Work from **-** until the 4th corner of the blanket, work around the corner as before.
Work from **-** until the 1st corner and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch on at the start of the round.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain space
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= 5 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 189-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Andrea Kruiskamp 22.07.2018 - 18:46:

Met deze nog een vraag, ik ben inmiddels bij vierkant 11 heb zoals in het patroon staat de kleurwisselingen met dubbele draad gedaan, zoals ik heb begrepen vorige kleur en nieuwe kleur de eerste 3 lossen samen. Eigenlijk vind ik dit niet mooi en als ik de afbeelding van de deken goed bekijk zie ik dat dat niet zo is gedaan. (Bij mijn werk zie je dus bij aanvang nieuwe toer 2 kleuren) Graag verneem hoe het nu eigenlijk moet? Omdat het inderdaad op de instructie video anders wordt gedaan.

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 21:00:

Dag Andrea, Bij het wisselen van kleur haak je niet de 3 lossen samen (want dan komen de kleuren inderdaad door elkaar en dat is niet mooi) maar je haakt de laatste doorhaling van de lus van kleur 1 alvast met kleur 2. (De tip voor het wisselen van garen is niet specifiek voor verschillende kleuren bedoelt maar voor het wegwerken van garen)

Mieke 12.07.2018 - 21:28:

Andrea Kruiskamp en beantwoorder van haar vraag; hoewel ik een ervaren haakster ben en net als Andrea katoen voor de vakantie heb gekocht om deze deken te haken loop ook ik tegen het omkeren aan. Ik heb dat nooit eerder gedaan, op het filmpje van de granny square gebeurt het wel en in de beschrijving onder het filmpje staat dit ook beschreven. Als je de detailfoto vergroot zie je dat er wel na elke toer gekeerd is (voor de ervaren kijken) Misschien handig voor het draadjes wegwerken?

Marij 12.07.2018 - 15:18:

Is katoenen garen voor een plaid niet aan de zware kant?

DROPS Design 16.07.2018 kl. 13:04:

Dag Marij, Het wordt inderdaad een vrij zwaar kleed. Als je hem wat lichter wilt hebben zou je een wolvariant, bijvoorbeeld DROPS Alaska of DROPS Nepal, kunnen gebruiken (garencategorie C)

Andrea Kruiskamp 04.07.2018 - 16:51:

Mevrouw, heb het patroon en de garens etc gekocht bij de Hobbydoos. Nu had ik verwacht een geschreven patroon te ontvangen. Aangezien er alleen een telpatroon bij is geleverd en ik pas begin met haken en geen ervaring heb met een telpatroon, vraag ik mij af of je het haakwerk bij elke nieuwe toer moet keren.

DROPS Design 05.07.2018 kl. 14:33:

Dag Andrea, Nee, je hoeft het werk niet te keren, du je haakt steeds in de rondte aan de goede kant (In onze patronen staat het aangegeven als je het werk moet keren aan het eind van de toer). Je begint iedere toer met 3 lossen en eindidt met een halve vaste in de derde losse van de vorige toer.

Bullet Force 15.05.2018 - 09:59:

Heklet pledd med bestemor-ruter.

Marit Louise Jordhoy 18.04.2018 - 01:26:

Hei hvor mange ruter skal det være av hver fargekombinasjoner?

DROPS Design 26.04.2018 kl. 16:35:

Hej Marit, det hekles 3 ruter av hver fargekombinasjon - god fornøjelse! :)

MICAELA 03.01.2018 - 18:32:

E' un piacere per gli occhi, rasserenante

Mariarita 18.12.2017 - 15:54:

Garnstudio ha il pregio di presentare sempre modelli diversi,senza tempo perche' non seguono la moda,ma la propongono.Grazie e serene festivita'.

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