DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Le Conquet Jumper

Jumper with raglan, moss stitch and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS 191-14
DROPS design: Pattern z-818
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour no 2110, wheat
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – or size needed to get 13 stitches and 15 rows in moss stitch with 3 strands = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 6 mm - for rib
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 4.5.
In this example increase after alternately every 4th and 5th stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (moss stitch).

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these two stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. Then work the increased stitches in pattern. The 2 stitches in each raglan line are worked in stocking stitch until yoke is done.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before stitch with marker thread, slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, work next stitch as shown in A.1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over. This way A.1 will continue nicely over decrease on next round.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular needle top down, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 54-54-60-66-69-72 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 3 cm.
After rib knit 1 round while increasing 14-14-16-14-11-12 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 68-68-76-80-80-84 stitches.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece, this is done without working the stitches and insert marker threads between 2 stitches as follows: Insert first marker thread after first stitch at beginning of round, insert 2nd marker thread after the next 9 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 25-25-29-31-31-33 stitches (= front piece), and insert 4th marker thread after the next 9 stitches (= sleeve). There are 24-24-28-30-30-32 stitches after last marker thread on back piece. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm, work first round as follows: Knit 2 (first marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), work A.1 over the next 7 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), knit 2, A.1 over the next 23-23-27-29-29-31 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), knit 2, A.1 over the next 7 stitches (begin and end with knit 1), knit 2 and A.1 over the remaining 23-23-27-29-29-31 stitches (begin and end with knit 1). Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads - see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase for raglan every other round 11-15-16-16-19-20 times in total. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After last increase there are 156-188-204-208-232-244 stitches on needle. Continue A.1 with 2 stitches in stocking stitch along each raglan line until piece measures 18-24-25-25-29-30 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Work next round as follows: start 1-1-2-2-1-1 stitches before the first marker thread, slip the first 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-7-7-11 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 45-53-57-59-67-73 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-7-7-11 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 44-52-56-58-66-72 stitches as before. Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 100-116-124-132-148-168 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 5-5-5-7-7-11 stitches that were cast on under sleeve in each side. Begin round at one of the marker threads and continue with A.1 in the round. When piece measures 19-15-16-18-16-17 cm from division, knit 1 round while increasing 14-13-14-15-14-15 stitches evenly = 114-129-138-147-162-183 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 4 cm. Switch back to circular needle size 7 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge. Jumper measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 7 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-5-7-7-11 stitches cast on under sleeve = 38-46-50-52-56-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch of the 5-5-5-7-7-11 stitches under sleeve. Continue A.1 in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 10-3½-3-3-2-1½cm 3-7-8-8-10-11 times in total = 32-32-34-36-36-38 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 36-31-30-30-27-26 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 4-4-5-3-3-4 stitches evenly = 36-36-39-39-39-42 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time cast off (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 36-31-30-30-27-26 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.03.2022
YOKE:.. Work next round as follows: start 1-1-2-2-1-1 stitches before the first marker thread, slip the first 33-41-45-45-49-49 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, ...

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Marianne wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få strikkefasthed i højden til at passe. Uanset hvilke pinde jeg bruger, bliver det aldrig 10 x10 , når jeg har 13 m og 15 rækker med de 3 tråde og i perlestrik Er der en fejl?

22.03.2024 - 08:34

country flag Kimmie Olander wrote:

Fejl i opskrift, bærestykke størrelse L. : de resterende 56 m , fejl det er 57 m Samt at man ikke skal klippe tråden inden man strikker videre på ryg og forstykke. Mvh

20.03.2024 - 09:05

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas la division du travail après l’empiétement en taille L. Au début on a 9 m pour les manches et 29 pour le dos et le devant. On augmente 16 fois soit 32 m, donc j’ai 41 m pour les manches et 61 m pour dos et devant = 204 m. A la division je dois garder 45 m pour les manches mais en gardant la 1ére m du 1er raglan pour le dos. Ma division n’est donc pas symétrique. Est-ce que je me trompe quelque part ?

11.02.2022 - 23:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Charlotte, si mes calculs sont justes, en taille L, on doit mettre en attente pour la manche la dernière m du dos + les 2 m raglan + les 39 m de la manche + les 2 m du raglan + 1 m du devant = 45 m pour la manche; et on a ainsi 59 m pour le devant - 1 m attribuée à chaque manche = 57 m. Nos stylistes vont re-vérifier ceci. Bonne continuation!

14.02.2022 - 09:13

country flag INGA GUNILLA WIGREN wrote:

Hej igen! Tack för ditt svar men i mönstret Drops 191-14 (Le Conquet Jumper) står det att det skall vara 1 tråd Alpaca och 2 trådar Kid Silk, alltså tre trådar. Bästa hälsningar Gunilla

18.08.2021 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunilla. Ber om ursäkt för det, jag ser att det ska vara 2 trådar DROPS Kid-Silk så då misstänker jag att du inte kommer få den stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret (13 maskor och 15 varv moss-stickning = 10x10 cm) med bara 1 tråd DROPS Air. Du behöver antagligen sticka med 1 tråd DROPS Air och 1 tråd DROPS Kid-Silk för att få rätt stickfasthet, men prova dig gärna fram. Mvh DROPS Design

20.08.2021 - 09:14

country flag Gunilla Wigren wrote:

Kan jag byta garnet i Drops mönster 191-14 till Drops Air om jag använder stickor 5? Provlopp 17 m 22 varv =10x10 stämmer

18.08.2021 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gunilla. Ja, det kan du. Genseren er strikket i 1 tråd DROPS Alpaca + 1 tråd DROPS Kid-Silk = 2 tråder som gir samme tykkelse som 1 tråd DROPS Air. mvh DROPS design

18.08.2021 - 15:36

country flag Margareta Johnzen wrote:

Står att man ska börja på resåren 15 cm efter att jag börjat sticka på fram och bakstycket. Är det rätt?

11.02.2021 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Margareta, ja da bliver den totale længde 46 cm. Eller strik til ønsket længde. God fornøjelse!

16.02.2021 - 14:59

country flag Romana wrote:

Muss ich beim Rumpfteil bein den Raglanabschnitten die beiden Maschen weiterhin rechts stricken oder stricke ich sie entsprechend dem Muster A1? Vielen Dank!

07.09.2020 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Romana, beim Rumpfteil stricken Sie A.1 in der Runde, dh über alle Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.09.2020 - 10:13

country flag Kristin Evensen wrote:

Er det mulig å strikke denne genseren med en tråd Alpakka og en tråd Kid-Silk (i stedet for to tråder Kid-Silk)

06.07.2020 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristin, Hvis du reduserer antall tråder, fra 2 til 3, blir det nødvendig å øke maskeantallet. Du må stikke en prøvelapp og endre maske antall etter hvor mange masker/rader du får på 10 x 10 cm. God fornøyelse!

06.07.2020 - 07:31

country flag Susanne Pedersen wrote:

Hejsa. Kan man bruge Brushed Alpaca Silk i stedet for DROPS Kid-Silk. I så fald hvor mange nøgler skal man bruge samt skal det stadig skal strikkes med 2 tråde? Med venlig hilsen Susanne

10.06.2020 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, Ja du kan bruge 1 tråd Alpaca + 1 tråd Brushed Alpaca Silk (istedet for de 2 tråde Kid-Silk). Hvis du skriver garnforbruget for Kid-Silk for din størrelse ind i vores garnomregner, vælger 2 tråde, så får du forbruget med 1 tråd Brushed :)

10.06.2020 - 13:31

country flag Yolène wrote:

En lien avec la question de : Sandra\r\n\"Est-il possible de le tricoter avec des manches de longueur normale et si oui quelles modifications apporter ?\"\r\net votre réponse de l\'époque : \r\n\"vous pouvez vous aider d\'un modèle de même tension avec des manches longues pour ajuster les modifications nécessaire pour votre taille et la longueur souhaitée.\"\r\nQu\'est ce vous appeler la tension? connaitriez vous un modèle qui correspondrait ?\r\nBien à vous

27.02.2020 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Yolène, la tension, c'est l'échantillon, autrement dit 13 mailles de large pour ce modèle - voici quelques exemples de pulls femme avec cet échantillon. Rappelez-vous que votre magasin saura vous apporter toute l'assistance individuelle nécessaire, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

27.02.2020 - 16:51