DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-1424
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-732
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: approx. 9 cm in diameter
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g colour 17, off white
50 g colour 24, dark grey

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 17 double crochets and 20 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

ACCESSORIES: A small amount of stuffing.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
The area marked with grey has already been worked; it is there to show how the next round is worked into the stitches.
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SHEEP:
The head is worked first with the ears and hair, the legs are worked separately and then all parts are worked together. Then a tail is worked and you continue with the back of the body. Finally, the front and back are worked together with a loopy edge around the sheep.

HEAD, EARS AND HAIR (A.1):
The piece is worked in the round from the middle of the head and outwards. The head and ears are worked with dark grey and the hair with off white.
Start with hook size 4 mm and dark grey. Work A.1. Cut the strand and change to off white before starting the hair. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 is finished cut and fasten the strand.
Sew eyes and nose onto round 3 as follows: Sew 2 French knots for eyes – see diagram A.8, and sew 2 stitches for the mouth with off white – see photo. Lay the piece to one side.

LEGS (A.2):
Work 1 leg according to diagram A.2 using dark grey. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 more leg.

WORKING LEGS TOGETHER (A.3):
Now work a round of dark grey at the back of the head at the same time as the legs are fastened as follows:
Work A.3 in the back loop of round 3 of A.1 using dark grey – read PATTERN, at the same time as each leg is fastened as you go – see black squares in A.3 for positioning.

FRONT OF BODY (A.4):
Work A.4 using off white around the last round in A.3, then cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

BACK OF BODY AND TAIL (A.5/A.6):
First crochet a tail, then continue working the body around the tail as follows:
Start with hook size 4 mm. Work A.5 (= tail), then work A.6 in and around the first stitch on the tail, with the tail in the middle. Continue until A.6 has been completed. Cut and fasten the strand.

LOOPS EDGE AROUND THE SHEEP (A.7):
Now work the front and back together, using off white, as follows:
Place the front and back pieces together – wrong side to wrong side. If you wish to pad the sheep, fill it with a little stuffing now. Work from the front, starting at the chain stitch mid top of front/back of body as follows:
Work A.7 through both layers – the round starts at the diamond. NOTE: Work on front of the legs; the legs should hang where there are black squares in the diagram. Cut and fasten the thread.

Diagram

symbols = start here by working 1 chain stitch (the next stitch has an oval symbol), round 1 is worked in the round, around this chain stitch
symbols = slip stitch
symbols = slip stitch in the back loop of the stitch
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = 2 double crochets in stitch
symbols = double crochet around the chain stitch
symbols = double crochet in front loop of stitch
symbols = half treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = start here
symbols = fasten strand with 1 slip stitch and start the round with 1 chain stitch. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = the round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch and start the round with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = the round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = Diamond symbol: The round starts here with 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch. The round ends with 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch, work 20 chain stitches for a loop and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at the beginning of the round
symbols = 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in first chain stitch
symbols = The leg is worked at the same time as this chain-space, i.e. this chain-space is worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch in A.2 (leg), work 1 chain stitch
symbols = Tail: Start with chain stitches. When A.5 is finished, work A.6 (the tail is the circle symbol in the middle of A.6), the next stitch is the oval symbol. The first round of double crochets is worked in and around the first chain stitch on the tail - keep hold of the tail when working around it.
symbols = cut and fasten the strand
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Pia Olsen wrote:

Hej. Jeg kan kun se diagram forklaringen, men ikke hverken diagrammet eller tegnene, der passer til forklaringerne, og så er det jo svært at hækle fåret

04.06.2023 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. Sjekk om nettleseren din har lastet ned alt. Det skal være 7 diagram + 1 tegning til denne oppskriften. Alt er OK hos oss. Det er også laget 2 videoer som viser hvordan disse er heklet, scroll nederst på siden. Mvh DROPS Design

05.06.2023 - 08:01

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

Je vais essayer de passer le fil de coton dans le point mousse des pattes ,je pense que ça devrait marcher voilà je vous dirai si j'ai réussi .

21.04.2023 - 12:01

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

Bonjour ,merci de votre réponse ça c'est ce que je fais mais comme les pattes n 'ont pas beaucoup d'épaisseur alors cette astuce est pas la meilleure . Je vais essayer autre chose pour le moment je vois pas trop comment faire ,en tout cas je vous remercie de votre réponse .Bonne journée .

21.04.2023 - 11:47

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

Bonsoir , je fais les pattes de ce mignon petit mouton mais comment arrêter les fils car en les montant au rang (3 ) alors ça ne fait pas joli et tout part car j'ai fais un noeud pour arrêter les fils . Merci de votre réponse .

20.04.2023 - 21:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Reine Marie, dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment rentrer des fils de coton dans un ouvrage au crochet, ceci devrait pouvoir vous aider. Votre magasin a fort probablement d'autres astuces qu'il partagera volontiers avec vous, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

21.04.2023 - 08:05

country flag Jeanne Kalcevic wrote:

So very cute and easy to make thank-you

13.01.2023 - 19:19

country flag Ilona Hessner wrote:

Mit Drops Andes habe ich wunderschöne Schals und Stirnbänder gestrickt. Da ich Reste hatte, kam ich auf die Idee, den Wollstrang zu teilen. Die Farben passen zu den Rocking Sheeps - für zwei dürfte es auf jeden Fall reichen. Danke Lanade - die Anleitungen sind einfach SPITZE!

07.11.2018 - 23:28

country flag Ilona Dorn wrote:

Guten Tag, meine Frage bezieht sich nicht auf das Schaf. Ich wollte nur fragen, ob der Osterkalender nicht weiter geht. Ich habe jetzt immer wieder probiert, aber ich sehe nur die ersten vier Tage. Freundliche Grüße, Ilona

19.03.2018 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dorn, es sind ja nur 4 Anleitung in dem Osterkalender, in dem Osterworkshop finden Sie aber viel mehr Modellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.03.2018 - 08:47

country flag Monika Opočenská wrote:

Dobrý den, všimla jsem si, že se vloudila malá chybička a část textu (popisy symbolů) je v angličtině. Můžete to opravit, moc prosím? Určitě chci tu roztomilou ovečku vyrobit :-) Děkuji Monika

15.03.2018 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Moniko, díky za upozornění - opraveno! Ať se vám hezky háčkuje! Hana

16.03.2018 - 06:46