DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Cressida

Crocheted poncho with lace pattern, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS 188-27
DROPS design: Pattern w-697
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
900-1100-1300 g color 29, light ice blue

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 16 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Ponchoslace top down v-neck
DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
The first double crochet at the beginning of round are replaced with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until middle space.

DECREASE TIP - WORK 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Work 1 treble crochet around chain space below but wait with last pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), skip 1 single crochet and work 1 treble crochet around next chain space but on last pull through pull yarn through all loops on hook.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.
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PONCHO:
Poncho is worked in the round, top down. First increase mid front, mid back and on each side of each shoulder, then increase only mid front and mid back.

Work 156-166-166 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Paris and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
Work 3 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFO! Then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5-3-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* 25-27-27 times in total = 130-138-138 double crochets + 3 chain stitches at beginning of round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Now insert 6 markers from beginning of round as follows (without working): Insert 1 marker in 1st double crochet on round (i.e. in double crochet after the 3 chain stitches = mid back), skip 24-26-26 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), skip 14 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), skip 24-26-26 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= mid front), skip 14 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), skip 26-26-26 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), there are now 6 double crochets between last marker and beginning of round.

WORK A.1 AS FOLLOWS:
Work 1st round as follows: Work * A.1A in first/next double crochet with marker (= mid front/mid back), repeat A.1C 12-13-13 times in total, A.1D in next double crochet with marker (= shoulder increase), repeat A.1E 7 times in total, A.1D in next double crochet with marker (= shoulder increase), A.1E 12-13-13 times in total *, work from *-* 2 times in total.
Work 2nd round as follows: Work * A.1A (= mid front/mid back), A.1B, repeat A.1C 12-13-13 times in total, A.1D (= shoulder increase), repeat A.1E 7 times in total, A.1D (= shoulder increase), A.1E 12-13-13 times in total, A.1F *, work from *-* 2 times in total. Continue to and with 6th-7th-8th round in diagram A.1.
There are now 108-128-132 stitches between chain space mid front and mid back (= 216-256-264 stitches + 2 middle spaces on round).
Piece measures approx. 8-9-10 cm / 4'' in crochet direction (measure down from the shoulder from the cast-on edge).

ROUND WITH DOUBLE CROCHETS:
Work 1 round with double crochets, work (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets) around middle space, and adjust AT THE SAME TIME number of double crochets to decrease/increase as follows:
S/M – XXL/XXXL: Increase 1-1 double crochet along each of the sides between mid front/mid back (= 2-2 double crochets in total) – read INCREASE TIP
L/XL: Decrease 7 double crochets along each of the sides between mid front/mid back (= 14 double crochets in total) – read DECREASE TIP
There are now 113-125-137 stitches between chain space mid front and mid back (= 226-250-274 stitches + 2 middle spaces on round).
NOTE! Do not increase on each side of each shoulder onwards, but only mid front and mid back on poncho!

WORK A.2/A.3 AS FOLLOWS:
Work * A.3A (= middle space), A.3B over 3 double crochets, A.2 (= 12 stitches) 9-10-11 times in total in width, A.3C over the next 2 double crochets *, work from *-* 2 times in total. On 9th round increase 12-24-36 double crochets evenly on each side of A.3A (i.e. increase 24-48-72 double crochets in total on round) = 145-169-193 double crochets between chain space mid front and mid back (= 290-338-386 double crochets in total + 2 middle spaces on round) – read INCREASE TIP.
Piece measures approx. 19-20-21 cm / 7½"-8"-8 1/4'' in crochet direction from cast-on edge.

WORK A.4/A.5 AS FOLLOWS:
Work * A.5A (= middle space), A.5B, A.4 (= 24 stitches) 6-7-8 times in total in width, A.5C over next double crochet *, work from *-* 2 times in total.
When A.5 has been done vertically, 19 rounds have been worked, continue on 20th round as follows: Work * A.5D, A.5E over 1 double crochet, A.5F 7 times in total in width, A.4 (= 24 stitches) 6-7-8 times in total in width, A.5F 7 times in total in width, A.5G *, work from *-* 2 times in total. When A.4/A.5 have been worked, there are 211-235-259 double crochets between chain space mid front and mid back (= 422-470-518 double crochets in total + 2 middle spaces on round).
Piece measures approx. 46-47-48 cm / 18"-18½"-19'' in crochet direction from cast-on edge.

WORK 2ND AND 3RD ROUND IN A.1 AS FOLLOWS:
Begin around one middle space and begin from 3rd round in diagram.
Work * A.1A (= middle space), repeat A.1C until next middle space (work last stitch only over 1 stitch on first round *, work from *-* 2 times in total. Repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 4-8-10 rounds have been worked in total.
Piece measures approx. 51-56-59 cm / 20"-22"-23 1/4'' in crochet direction from cast-on edge.

ROUND WITH DOUBLE CROCHETS:
Work 1 round with double crochets and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 7-5-5 double crochets evenly along each of the sides between mid front/mid back (= 14-10-10 double crochets in total) as follows: Work * (2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 2 double crochets) around middle space, then work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 1 double crochet around every chain stitch until next middle space *, work from *-* 2 times in total = 209-245-269 double crochets between chain space mid front and mid back (= 418-490-538 double crochets + 2 middle space on round). Cut the yarn.

WORK A.2/A.3 AS FOLLOWS:
Work * A.3A (= middle space), A.3B over 3 double crochets, A.2 (= 12 stitches) 17-20-22 times in total in width, A.3C over the next 2 double crochets *, work from *-* 2 times in total.
When A.2/A.3 have been worked, there are 229-265-289 double crochets between chain space mid front and mid back (= 458-530-578 double crochets + 2 middle spaces on round). Piece measures approx. 62-67-70 cm / 24½"-26½"-27½'' in crochet direction from cast-on edge.

EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the entire poncho as follows: 1 slip stitch in first stitch, * work 3 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, work from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 slip stitch in slip stitch at beginning of round. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction under PONCHO:...Now insert 6 markers from beginning of round as follows (without working): Insert 1 marker in 1st double crochet on round (i.e. in double crochet after the 3 chain stitches = mid back), skip 24-26-26 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), skip 14 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), skip 24-26-26 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= mid front), skip 24-26-26 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), skip 14 double crochets, insert 1 marker in next double crochet (= shoulder), there are now 24-26-26 double crochets between last marker and beginning of round.

WORK A.1 AS FOLLOWS:
Work 1st round as follows: Work * A.1A in first/next double crochet with marker (= mid front/mid back), repeat A.1C 12-13-13 times in total, A.1D in next double crochet with marker (= shoulder increase), repeat A.1E 7 times in total, A.1D in next double crochet with marker (= shoulder increase), A.1E 12-13-13 times in total *, work from *-* 2 times in total.
Work 2nd round as follows: Work * A.1A (= mid front/mid back), A.1B, repeat A.1C 12-13-13 times in total, A.1D (= shoulder increase), repeat A.1E 7 times in total, A.1D (= shoulder increase), A.1E 12-13-13 times in total, A.1F *, work from *-* 2 times in total. Continue to and with 6th-7th-8th round in diagram A.1...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 7 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = work 3 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in next double crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets the same way, then pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = begin here = 1st round
symbols = this round has already been worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (66)

country flag Jacqueline Bicks wrote:

Hi are the stitches in English or American crochet as I know American double crochet are treble in English patterns

19.12.2020 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jacqueline, you can choose below the photo which English version you're reading; in the US version you'll use the American terms and in the UK version you'll use the English terms. Happy crocheting!

20.12.2020 - 12:38

country flag Gili מרכס wrote:

Hello, It's a wonderfull pattern. Thank you!! One comment: the neck is too wide and it slips from the shoulder. I had to add three rows of double croche around the neck. Thank you again for the accurate and beutiful patterns. Gili

16.12.2020 - 08:39

country flag Anne Sophie wrote:

Merci pour votre reponse mais c est le 3 eme tour qui me pose probleme 🙄

30.10.2020 - 07:35

DROPS Design answered:

oops désolée Anne-Sophie, le 3ème tour de A.1 va se crocheter comme le 2ème tour, autrement dit: * A.1A, A.1B, 13xA.1C, A.1D, 7 xA.1E, A.1D, 13x A.1E, A.1F *, recommencez encore 1 fois de *-*. Vous devez maintenant continuer à suivre les diagrammes A.1B et A.1F (en plus des autres bien sûr), donc au 3ème tour de A.1, vous aurez: A.1A (= 2 brides, 3 ml, 2 brides dans l'arceau), A.1B (=1 ml, 1 bride autour de la ml, 1 ml, 1 bride autour de la ml), A.1C (= 1 ml, 1 bride autour de la ml suivante) etc... est-ce plus clair ainsi? vos coins doivent ressembler maintenant au diagramme et de chaque côté de A.1D, le motif continue avec 1 bride autour de la ml, 1 ml. Bonne continuation!

30.10.2020 - 07:47

country flag Anne Sophie wrote:

Bonjour, pourriez vs me detailler le 3 eme tour de A1 en taille L svp car cela fait plusieurs fois que je recommence mais je ne tombe jamais bien, je desespere, faut il faire A1a puis A1 puis13 fois A1c, A1d puis 7 fois A1e, A1d puis 13 fois A1e et A1f et cela 2 fois par cote ( sans A1a a la 2eme et 4 eme fois ?

29.10.2020 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anne-Sophie, au 1er tour, vous crochetez le rang avec la flèche: (A.1A, 13xA.1c, A.1D (m avec le marqueur), 7x.A.1e, A.1D (m avec le marqueur), 13xA.1e) et répétez de (à) 2 fois au total = le tour est terminé, vous avez crocheté toutes les mailles, joignez avec 1 mc et crochetez le 2ème tour, vous allez maintenant crocheter en plus A.1B entre A.1a et A.1C et A.1F après A.1E. Bon crochet!

30.10.2020 - 07:28

country flag Iris wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben maat s/m aan het haken en heb t/m de 6e toer van A1 gehaakt. Volgens de beschrijving moet ik 108 steken hebben tussen de lussen voor en achter. Echter, mijn haakwerk heeft 112 steken tussen de lussen. Als ik de steken in het telpatroon bij elkaar optel, kom ik op ook 112 steken (1 (A.1A) + 11 (A.1B) + 12*2 (A.1C) + 13 (A.1D) + 7*2 (A.1E) + 13 (A.1D) + 12*2 (A.1E) + 11 (A.1F) + 1 (A.1A)). Hebben jullie enig idee waar ik de fout in ga? Alvast bedankt!

18.10.2020 - 19:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Iris,

Na de eerste 6 toeren van A.1A t/m A.1E kom ik inderdaad ook op 112 steken in i.p.v. 108, dus er klopt wellicht ergens iets niet. Maar in het volgende gedeelte staat aangegeven dat je steken moet meerderen/minderen. om op een totaal van 226 steken + de 2 middenruimtes te komen. Als je ervoor zorgt dat je dan het juiste aantal steken hebt, kun je in ieder geval verder met het volgende deel.

18.11.2020 - 18:33

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour, de nouveau... Jai terminé A1 mais je ne retrouve pas les 216mailles attendues... J'ai crocheté au tour 8 comme suit après le premier arceau, en suivant les instructions des 2premiers tours: 15mailles(A1b) +24(A1C) +17(A1d) +14(A1e)+17(A1d) +24(A1e) +15mailles(a1f) j'arrive à l'arceau du milieu devant et je répète jusqu'à la fin du Tour. Jai donc beaucoup plus que 216 mailles et je ne comprend pas mon erreur. Merci pour aide et vos réponses précédentes. C

13.08.2020 - 17:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, en taille S, vous crochetez les diagrammes juqsu'au 6ème tour inclus, pas jusqu'au 8ème, vous devez avoir les 216 m à la fin du 6ème tour. Bon crochet!

14.08.2020 - 07:07

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour, A1 terminé, j'ai la bonne taille au col (28cm TS) mais 11cm en longueur au lieu des 8 attendus. Je crochète avec une T4 au lieu de 4,5 et ce type de pb m'arrive souvent. Je me retrouve à devoir acheter bcp de pelotes pour finir mes ouvrages. Je n'ai pas l'impression que mon maillage soit trop lâche, pourtant. Ce problème est-il courant ? Y aurait-t-il une autre solution que de prendre un crochet/des aiguilles encore plus petit ? Merci pour votre aide ! C

31.07.2020 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, l'important est toujours de bien avoir le bon échantillon en largeur et en hauteur (= 16 brides x 9 rangs ici par exemple), ensuite, en fonction de la façon de crocheter, on peut avoir besoin d'un peu plus de fil, mais généralement, quand on conserve la bonne tension (en largeur et en hauteur), les quantités indiquées doivent suffire. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur l'échantillon. Bon crochet!

03.08.2020 - 07:11

country flag Pauline wrote:

Merci beaucoup en fait je n'avais pas vu la flèche du 1er tour et j'avais donc commencé par le haut mais maintenant j'ai compris et je continue ce magnifique travail merci de votre aideet pour toutes ces explications d'ouvrage bonne journée 😊

30.01.2020 - 17:34

country flag Pauline wrote:

Bonjour. Je ne comprends pas comment crocheter A1. J'ai bien fait À. 1A dans la 1ere bride, donc 3 ml et 1b. J'ai ensuite répéter 12 fois À.1C au total mais cela ne tombe pas juste car quand je doit crocheter A1D je ne suis pas sur la bride avec le marqueur mais bien avant (exactement 12b) faut-il que je répète A1C plus de fois ou y j'ai mal compris l'explication ? Merci de votre aide

29.01.2020 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pauline, au 1er tour, A.1A se crochète ainsi: *2 brides, 3 ml, 2 brides dans la même bride, puis vous répétez A.1C (= 1 b dans la b suivante, 1 ml ,sautez la b suivante) 12 fois, puis A.1D(= 1 b, 1 ml, 1 b dans la même b), 7 fois A.1E (= 1 ml, sautez 1 b, 1 b dans la b suiv), A.1D (= 1b, 1 ml, 1 b dans la même m), 12 x A.1E*, répétez de *à*. Au 2ème tour, vous allez crocheter en plus A.1B entre A.1A et A.1C et A.1F entre A.1E et A.1A. Bon crochet!

30.01.2020 - 09:13

country flag Susan Contreras wrote:

At the beginning of the instructions it says to complete 1A and then 1C but does not mention 1B even though 1B is shown in the diagram???? Do we complete 1B before 1C? Also I’m confused how to follow the pattern. Do I just go around the square? Complete ea row A-D first? It’s rather confusing.

12.01.2020 - 06:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Contreras, you will find here how to read crochet diagrams, and how to work different diagrams on the same round here. Happy crocheting!

13.01.2020 - 09:37