DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Key West Sweater

Jumper with lace pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Belle.

DROPS 186-14
DROPS design: Pattern vs-041
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 15, denim blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are done from right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker in the side, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. Repeat in the other side. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
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JUMPER:
Worked top down. Work first front and back piece separately, back and forth down to armholes, then work body in the round. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Work right shoulder as follows: 
Cast on 16-17-17-18-19-20 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Belle.
ROW 1 (= right side): 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above (= towards the neck), knit 10-11-11-12-13-14, 3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards armhole).
ROW 2: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl until 3 stitches remain, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row 3 more times (= 4 times in total) = 8 rows.
On next row increase 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 17-18-18-19-20-21 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side and put piece aside. Piece measures approx. 4 cm from cast-on edge and down.
Work left shoulder as follows: 
Cast on and work as right shoulder but reversed. I.e. when increasing 1 stitch towards the neck increase 1 stitch before the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck on 9th row. Work 1 row from wrong side.
Now work left and right shoulder together as follows:
Turn piece (= left shoulder) and work as before over all stitches and cast on 35-35-37-37-39-39 new stitches for neck at the end of row, then work the 17-18-18-19-20-21 stitches from right shoulder on to needle = 69-71-73-75-79-81 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work the new stitches cast on for neck mid front in garter stitch, work the other stitches on back piece in stocking stitch and garter stitch as before.
When 2 ridges have been worked over the new stitches for neck, work pattern while at the same time increasing for armhole as follows: READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

Begin from right side and work pattern as follows:
3 stitches in garter stitch, 13-14-15-16-18-19 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches), work from row with star in A.2 (= 23 stitches), A.1, 13-14-15-16-18-19 stitches in stocking stitch, 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this (when diagrams have been worked vertically, repeat them vertically until finished measurements).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-14-14-12-11-9 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder, increase 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch in each side for armhole. Increase like this on every row from right side 3-5-7-10-12-16 times in total = 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side after last increase and put piece aside. Piece measures 18-18-19-20-20-21 cm from shoulder and down. Put piece aside and work the front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Work left shoulder as follows: 
Cast on 16-17-17-18-19-20 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Belle.
ROW 1 (= right side): 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above (= towards the neck), knit 10-11-11-12-13-14, 3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards armhole).
ROW 2: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl until 3 stitches remain, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row 8 more times (= 9 times in total) = 18 rows.
On next row increase 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck as on back piece = 17-18-18-19-20-21 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side and put piece aside. Piece measures approx. 8 cm from cast-on edge and down.
Work right shoulder as follows: 
Cast on and work as left shoulder but reversed. I.e. when increasing 1 stitch towards the neck increase 1 stitch before the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck on 19th row. Work 1 row from wrong side.
Now work right and left shoulder together as follows:
Turn piece (= right shoulder) and work as before over all stitches and cast on 35-35-37-37-39-39 new stitches for neck at the end of row, then work the 17-18-18-19-20-21 stitches from left shoulder on to needle = 69-71-73-75-79-81 stitches. Work the new stitches cast on for neck mid front in garter stitch, work the other stitches on front piece in stocking stitch and garter stitch as before.
When 2 ridges have been worked over the new stitches for neck, work pattern while at the same time increasing for armhole as follows: READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

Begin from right side and work pattern as follows:
3 stitches in garter stitch, 13-14-15-16-18-19 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches), work from 1st row in A.2 (= 23 stitches), A.1, 13-14-15-16-18-19 stitches in stocking stitch, 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this (when diagrams have been worked vertically, repeat them vertically until finished measurements).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-14-14-12-11-9 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder, increase 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch in each side for armhole. Increase like this on every row from right side 3-5-7-10-12-16 times in total = 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side after last increase and put piece aside. Piece measures 18-18-19-20-20-21 cm from shoulder and down.

Now work as follows from right side: Turn and work over all stitches on front piece, cast on 4-6-8-10-12-14 new stitches for armhole, insert a marker thread in the middle of these new stitches (= 2-3-4-5-6-7 stitches on each side of marker thread), work the 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches from back piece on to same circular needle, and cast on 4-6-8-10-12-14 new stitches for armhole, insert a marker thread in the middle of these new stitches (= 2-3-4-5-6-7 stitches on each side of marker thread).

BODY:
= 158-174-190-210-230-254 stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then work in the round on circular needle. Work pattern and stocking stitch as before, but over the middle 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches in each side (i.e. 5-6-7-8-9-10 stitches on each side of marker thread in each side) work in garter stitch. When 2 ridges have been worked over stitches in each side, continue in stocking stitch, A.1 and A.2 as before. When piece measures 4 cm, increase 2 stitches in each side of piece - read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 7th-7th-7th-7th-8th-8th round 13 times in total = 210-226-242-262-282-306 stitches. Continue until piece measures 37-39-40-41-43-44 cm (56-58-60-62-64-66 cm in total from shoulder). Work 2 ridges. Cast off by knitting. To avoid a tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch. Cast off yarn overs as stitches.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 48-50-52-54-56-60 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges back and forth. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 6-9-9-7-11-9 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 20th-14th-10th-8th-6th-6th row 5-6-8-10-11-12 times, then when piece measures 37-36-36-35-34-34 cm (= after last increase) increase every other row 6 times = 70-74-80-86-90-96 stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 42-41-41-40-39-39 cm. Now cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 4-4-4-5-5-6 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 5 times, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-5-6 times, 2 stitches 4-5-5-5-5-5 times and 4 stitches 1 time = 18-16-20-22-22-24 stitches. Cast off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 50-51-52-52-52-53 cm. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew sleeve to body under edge in garter stitch. Sew the seam under the sleeves. Make sure to avoid a tight seam.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
symbols = knit a knot as follows: Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in same stitch, pass the 2nd worked stitch over the outermost stitch on right needle, pass next stitch over the outermost stitch on needle, and continue like this until 4 stitches in total have been passed over the outermost stitch.
symbols = when working pattern on back piece begin on this row. When the entire diagram has been worked vertically, repeat diagram from 1st row/round.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Carmen Giguère wrote:

Merci de votre réponse. Je parlais de la hauteur des épaules du dos (4cm) et du devant (8cm). Aussi 14 cm pour commencer les augmentations n’arrivent pas aux mêmes rangs sur les grilles A1 et A2 pour le dos et le devant.

27.03.2023 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Giguère, comme indiqué auparavant, ajustez la dernier rang du devant sur le dernier rang du dos, tricotez quelques rangs supplémentaires pour le dos si besoin, ainsi, les diagrammes seront ajustés quand on les tricote en rond. Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 - 15:40

country flag Carmen Giguère wrote:

Étant donné que les épaules n’ont pas la même longueur, je n’arrive pas aux mêmes rangs pour commencer les augmentations pour les emmanchures à 14 cm. Après ces augmentations je devrai joindre le dos et le devant pour continuer le tricot en rond. En raison de mon commentaire ci-dessus, est-ce que je dois continuer à suivre ma grille différemment pour le dos et le devant afin de ne pas briser la continuité ? Merci de me répondre et d’offrir un aussi bon service.

27.03.2023 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Giguère, je ne comprends pas bien votre question, les épaules droite et gauche doivent être de la même longueur à chaque fois avant de les joindre pour tricoter le dos/le devant. Ajustez pour terminer le devant au même rang que le dos pour pouvoir ensuite tricoter le dos et le devant ensemble. Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 - 13:38

country flag Carmen Giguère wrote:

Puis-je avoir une photo du projet de dos, svp ?

16.03.2023 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Giguère, nous n'avons pas de photos du dos, il est exactement comme le devant, sauf que l'encolure est moins profonde: on réunit les 2 épaules du dos à 4 cm et celles du devant à 8 cm. Bon tricot!

16.03.2023 - 16:45

country flag Marianna wrote:

Hi! I have the Drops Belle yarn and I'm ready to make the sweater, but I just do not like the knots. Can you suggest an alternative stitch in place of the knot stitch? Thanks 😊

26.02.2023 - 02:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marianna, you can just not work the knots, for example, by knitting the stitch that corresponds to the knot. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 - 23:40

country flag Hanna Mourino wrote:

Hej! Jag har stickat en del vågmönstrade halsdukar från er Garnstudio och tycker det är skoj. Min undran är varför man stickar denna tröja uppifrån och jobbar nedåt? Går det inte att sticka/börja detta mönster nedifrån istället?

29.06.2022 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanna. Vi prøver å variere på oppskriftene, noen strikkes ovenfra og ned, andre nedenifra og opp. Slik prøver vi tilfredstiller alle som strikker. Noen liker at det strikkes ovenfra og ned, da man kan prøve plagget underveis. Men du kan fint strikke denne nedenifra og opp, bare husk å tenke motsatt, både selve oppskriften og diagrammet. mvh DROPS Design

04.07.2022 - 10:25

country flag Susanne Turn Pedersen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få opskriften til at passe, jeg skal til ærmekuplen. Jeg laver str small. Der står jeg skal lukke x antal masker af, og når jeg tæller de masker sammen, bliver det til 26, men der står 18 i opskriften. Derudover skal denne aflukning laves på ca 10 pinde og give 10 cm, det kan jo ikke lade sig gøre. Jeg håber I kan hjælpe med at forklare, hvordan det skal laves?!? Vh Sanne

03.05.2020 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, du tager ind i hver side ifølge opskriften og har da 18 masker tilbage når ærmet måler 50 cm. Selve ærmekuplen er 8 cm i small. Det er hele omkredsen på ærmekuplen som passer ind i ærmegabet. God fornøjelse!

05.05.2020 - 09:03

country flag Josepha Korsten wrote:

Heb ik alleen de rondbreinaald nodig of ook andere naalden?

08.06.2019 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Josepha,

Je kunt deze trui inderdaad volledig met rondbreinaalden maken.

08.06.2019 - 15:32

country flag Josepha Korsten wrote:

Hallo, ik zou graag willen weten of je de trui helemaal rond breit zonder zij naden. Groetjes Josepha

07.06.2019 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Josepha,

Je hebt indedaad geen naden in dit patroon (behalve de schoudernaden). Het werk wordt van boven naar beneden gebreid. De voor- en achterpanden worden eerst los van elkaar gebreid en bij de armsgaten voeg je het voor en achterpand samen om verder in de rondte naar beneden te breien. De mouwen worden ook in de rondte gebreid.

13.06.2019 - 09:59

country flag Bettina wrote:

Muster A1: über 7 M. Bei 2 Umschlägen in dem Muster wird nur eine Masche wieder ausgeglichen. oder muss ich die überzogene Masche zweimal stricken ? Dann sind es nämlich wieder sieben Maschen anstatt 8. Ich verstehe es einfach nicht.Bitte um Hilfe.

12.01.2019 - 13:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bettina, bei der 1. Reihe in A.1 werden 2 Maschen abgenommen = 1 Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken, die abgehobene Masche überziehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2019 - 10:01

country flag Mira wrote:

Schöne Anleitung. Aber bei der linken Schulter des Vorderteils in der deutschen Anleitung ein Fehler: Dort steht "In der nächsten Reihe 1 Masche neben den 3 kraus rechten Maschen in Richtung Halsausschnitt ebenso wie beim Rückenteil abnehmen = 17-18-18-19-20-21 Maschen. " Statt abnehmen müsste hier zunehmen stehen.

18.12.2018 - 21:54