DROPS Baby / 31 / 15

Time for Fun by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted baby overall in garter stitch with crocheted edge, hat in garter stitch with crocheted edge and pompoms and socks. Size premature - 4 years Set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-075-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET USE:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
56/62 – 68/74 – 80/86 (92)
To fit head measurement in cm: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm 
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250 (300) g colour 22, light grey
100-100-100 (100) g colour 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for edge in garter stitch – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges and ties.
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SUIT:
Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104) 
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-250 (300-300) g colour 22, light grey
50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges and ties.
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HAT:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head circumference in cm:
approx. (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 22, light grey
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 02, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for edge in garter stitch – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges and ties.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm 
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 (50) g colour 02, off white 

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth - applies to suit and socks):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to hat):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (applies to suit):
Increase inside 1 band stitch. All increases are done from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over. Knit yarn over twisted on next row, it should not make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to suit):
Decrease inside 1 band stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 1 band stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before 1 band stitch: Knit 2 together.
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SUIT:
Work from bottom up. First work 2 legs, then work the legs together and knit back and forth up to sleeve. Cast on stitches for sleeve in each side of piece, and finish front and back pieces separately until finished. Sew shoulder and sleeve seams and crochet an edge around the opening on suit in off white at the end. The entire suit is worked in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above.

LEG:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the stitches. 
Cast on 46-50-54-58 (66-70) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm with light grey. Work in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 6 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side of piece inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3rd-4th-5th-5th (8th-8th) row 11-11-12-14 (13-16) times in total = 68-72-78-86 (92-102) stitches. When piece measures 15-18-21-24 (29-34) cm, cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 2 next rows (i.e. stitches are cast off in each side of piece) = 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way.

SUIT: 
Slip both legs on to same circular needle size 3 mm with cast off stitches towards each other = 116-124-136-152 (164-184) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 3 ridges back and forth, begin mid front.
Then work as follows: Cast on 3 band stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 122-130-142-158 (170-190) stitches. Insert 1 marker after 32-34-37-41 (44-49) stitches in from each side. Move the markers upwards when working, they mark front pieces and back piece.
Now increase stitches mid front (i.e. in each side of piece) so that the front pieces overlap. Increase 1 stitch inside 1 band stitch in each side of piece (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Increase on very 4th row 3-2-0-3 (2-13) more times, then on every 6th row 8-11-16-17 (21-15) times (= 12-14-17-21 (24-29) stitches increased in total in each side of piece) = 44-48-54-62 (68-78) stitches on each front piece = 146-158-176-200-218-248 stitches in total.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK INSIDE 1 BAND STITCH WHILE AT THE SAME TIME DIVIDING THE PIECE AND CASTING ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE.
DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK AS FOLLOWS:
Work in garter stitch over all stitches until piece measures 17-20-25-28 (32-34) cm from marker thread. Then decrease 1 stitch inside 1 band stitch for neck in each side of piece (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this on every other row 20-24-27-31 (35-41) more times, then on very 4th row 2 times (= 23-27-30-34 (38-44) stitches decreased in total in each side of piece).
DIVIDE THE PIECE AND CAST ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE AS FOLLOWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
When piece measures 21-26-30-35 (40-43) cm from marker thread, divide piece at the 2 markers and finish front and back piece separately. Adjust so that next row is from right side. Now work over stitches until first marker (= right front piece). Slip the remaining stitches on a stitch holder. Now cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of every row from right side as follows (NOTE: Continue to decrease inside 1 band stitch at the beginning of row as before): Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve).
When all stitches are cast on and all decreases are done, there are 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches on needle. Work in garter stitch until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm in total, measured from leg to shoulder. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work over the last stitches slipped on a stitch holder, until marker.
Work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of row from wrong side. Continue to decrease inside 1 band stitch at the end of row as before for neck.

BACK PIECE: 
= 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of every row in each side for sleeves as follows: Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve in each side of piece) = 124-144-160-180 (202-228) stitches.
When piece measures 44-52-61-69 (80-89) cm in total, cast off the middle 16-20-20-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately (= 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches remain on each shoulder). Work like this until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm in total, measured from leg to shoulder, adjust according to front pieces. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY: 
Sew overarm-/shoulder seams with grafting/Kitchener stitches from right side.
Sew underarm seams together edge to edge in front loop of outermost stitches. Sew legs together inside 1 edge stitch, and sew the 5 stitches cast off between legs together. Sew vent up to where the 3 new stitches were cast on in each side for band stitches and sew the 3 band stitches in each side of piece to suit.

CROCHET EDGE: 
Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm with off white around the entire opening mid front on suit as follows:
ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Begin mid front at the bottom of left front piece, work 1 double crochet in first stitch where 3 band stitches were cast on, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge), continue crochet edge around suit until corner where decrease for neck began on left front piece, work tie as follows: 1 double crochet in tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work 1 slip stitch in every chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in tip on front piece again, work in the round until next tip (i.e. on right front piece), work tie, continue as before around the rest of suit down to where 3 band stitches were cast on, adjust to finish with 1 double crochet. 
ROW 2 (from right side): Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to work over ties so that the ties are under the edge, i.e. do not work in stitch in tie),  finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet on previous row. Fasten off.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm with off white at the bottom around both legs as follows:
ROUND 1: Begin at the seam. Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. 
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. 

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm with off white at the edge around both sleeves as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch at the bottom of sleeve, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. 
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round.
Then work 1 tie like the one in the tip on right and left front piece, on the outside of left front piece, under sleeve (i.e. in the side) and on the inside of right front piece – make sure that the ties are at the same hight as tips on front piece.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on (68) 82-94-100-104 (112-116) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. Work in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above – until piece measures 3.5 cm (= edge). On next round with knit, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and decrease 8 stitches evenly = (60) 74-86-92-96 (104-108) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in garter stitches until piece measures (17) 18-19-20-21 (22-23) cm. Cast off. Place hat flat and sew together at the top.

POMPOM:
Make 2 dense pompoms with a diameter of 5 cm with light grey and fasten at each end of seam.

CROCHET EDGE:
Turn hat inside out so that edge is worked from wrong side, this is folded later.
Work on hook size 2.5 mm with light grey around the edge on hat as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 2 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. 
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. Turn the hat with right side out and fold the edge up.
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SOCKS:
The sock is worked back and forth from mid back.

LEG:
Cast on 48-52-56 (56) stitches on circular needles size 2.5 mm with off white. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 5-6-6 (7) cm, adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Purl 1 row from wrong side while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 14-14-18 (14) stitches evenly = 34-38-38 (42) stitches. 

WITH EYELET HOLES:
Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, repeat from *-* and finish with knit 1. Purl 1 row from wrong side.

WITHOUT EYELET HOLES:
Knit 1 row from right side and purl 1 row from wrong side.

FOOT:
Now slip the outermost 12-13-13 (15) stitches in each side on 1 stitch holder. Work 4-4½-5½ (6½) cm in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, over the middle 10-12-12 (12) stitches (= middle piece). Slip stitches from stitch holders back on needle and pick up 10-11-13 (16) stitches on each side of middle piece = 54-60-64 (74) stitches. Insert 1 marker after 27-30-32 (37) stitches in = middle of piece.
Work in garter stitch for 3-4-5 (5) cm AT THE SAME TIME after 1½-2-2½ (3) cm decrease on every other row until finished measurements, as follows: Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and the end of piece and knit 2 together on each side of the 2 middle stitches. Cast off and sew together mid under foot and continue up mid back in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam. 
If you wish, thread a silk ribbon through the eyelet holes.

Diagram

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 31-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Emma 09.12.2019 - 21:52:

Hej, angående utökningen av maskor när man stickar benen undrar jag om det spelar någon roll hur man väljer att öka en maska på varje sida? Det vill säga jag har ökat osynligt genom att lyfta upp tråden mellan två maskor, men såg sedan att ni skrev högre upp att man skulle utöka med hjälp av omslag. Vad blir skillnaden? Ska jag ta upp varven jag hunnit sticka och göra om med omslag?

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 08:53:

Hei Emma! I denne oppskriften ambefaler vi å øke med kast, dette er fordi plagget ikke skal bli for stramt. Men hvordan man velger å øke er helt opp til den som strikker plagget, det kan være lurt å dobbeltsjekke målskissen for å se at målene til plagget er riktig. Lykke til!

Emma 03.12.2019 - 22:47:

Hej jag ska göra heldressen, och undrar om man man bara ska sticka räta maskor fram och tillbaka de första varven? Och i sådana fall vad ni menar med kantmaska? På er video angående kantmaskor, gör det endast skillnad när man sticker aviga maskor från avigsidan, då man börjar och avslutar med med en rät maska, Men från rätsidan stickas alla maskor lika. Så vad ska jag göra för kantmaska om jag bara sticker räta maskor både fram och tillbaka enligt er beskrivning??

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 08:07:

Hej Emma, det stemmer at alle masker strikkes i retstrik = ret på hver pind(også kantmasken), lidt senere i opskriften skal du tage ud inden for kantmasken... Bare følg opskriften :)

Elin 17.11.2019 - 16:43:

Hej, Jag känner mig jättedum, men jag förstår inte hur de virkade snörena ska knytas när allt är klart. Det ena snöret hamnar ju omlott under, och den som är synlig kan inte fästas i något. Ska det verkligen vara virkade snören vid båda kanterna?

DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 13:08:

Hej. Du har virkat knytband i spetsarna på båda styckena. Sedan gör du 2 knytband till och det ena fäster du på utsidan av vänster framstycke och det andra på insidan av höger framstycke. du ser på den sista bilden hur det blir på ena sidan, du har då motsvarande på andra sidan men på insidan. Mvh DROPS design

LAURA TARONI 02.10.2019 - 12:47:

Io che lavoro con ferri diritti come mi comporto con le gambe? Non riesco a capire! Grazie per una vostra eventuale risposta

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 13:01:

Buongiorno Laura. La tutina è lavorata in ferri di andata e ritorno. Può quindi seguire le istruzioni senza dover apportare nessuna modifica. Buon lavoro!

Adri 31.08.2019 - 16:31:

Is it possible to knit the border instead of crochet. I'm left handed and can"t crochet at all.

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 10:09:

Dear Adri, you can work a knitted edge if you rather like too, you then just have to adjust the pattern with the edge pattern you would l ike to get. Happy knitting!

Veronique 22.08.2019 - 10:40:

Bonjour, poivre vous me dire comment assembler les 5 mailles entre elles ainsi que la fente devant jusqu'aux 3 m montées de chaque côté et coudre les 3m de bordure, je ne comprends pas très bien. Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 11:38:

Bonjour Véronique, on a 10 m rabattues au total pour l'entrejambe (= 5 de chaque côté de chaque jambe), on assemble les 5 m rabattues de chaque jambe entre elles (5 m du devant contre les 5 m du dos). On assemble ensuite entre elles au milieu devant les 3 côtes mousse tricotées avant de monter les 3 m de chaque côté. Puis on pose les 3 m des bordures devant l'une au-dessus de l'autre et on les coud en bas de la combinaison pour les fixer. Bon assemblage!

Christel 05.08.2019 - 22:51:

Bonjour Dois je assembler les jambes du devant en tricotant les 116 mailles ou dois je tricoter le devant séparément ? Merci pour votre aide et bonne journée

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 11:41:

Bonjour Christel, vous tricotez d'abord les 2 jambes = 58 m à la fin de chaque jambe, vous coupez le fil à la fin de la 1ère jambe, mais à la fin de la 2ème jambe, vous tricotez d'abord les 58 m de celle-ci puis tricotez les 58 m de la 1ère jambe = 116 m au total. Vous tricotez maintenant la combinaison à partir du devant, puis le dos jusqu'à l'autre devant. Bon tricot!

Irene 09.06.2019 - 22:33:

Hola! Cuando dice montar 46 puntos (incluyendo 1 punto de orillo a cada lado) significa que tengo que montar 48 y que el primero y el ultimo son puntos de orillo o que tengo que montar 46 puntos de los cuales el primero y el ultimonson de orillo? Muchas gracias!

DROPS Design 09.06.2019 kl. 22:45:

Hola Irene. Tienes que montar 46 puntos. Los puntos de orillo están incluidos en estos 46 puntos.

Turid 26.05.2019 - 22:47:

Hej ! Fins det någon video som visar hur man syr ihop dressen mellan benen ?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 09:32:

Hei Turid. Dessverre finnes det ikke noen viedo av dette, men vi har lagt inn et videoønske hos vår videoavdeling. Du skal altså sy de 5 maskene fra det ene benet, sammen med de 5 maskene fra det andre benet. Både foran og bak. God fornøyelse

Baju 11.05.2019 - 19:37:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den jeweils an den Beinen abgeketteten 5 Maschen: wie werden diese beim Fertigstellen genau zusammengenäht? Wenn ich jeweils die gegenüberliegenden 5 Maschen zusammennähen entsteht vorne und hinten eine Art "Bürzel". Das ist doch sicher nicht gemeint, oder? Vielen Dank für einen Tipp!

DROPS Design 13.05.2019 kl. 09:05:

Liebe Frau Baju, am Ende (Fertigstellen) werden die 5 Maschen, die zwischen den Beinen abgekettet wurden, aneinander genäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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