Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= Knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side | |
= no stitch due to dec on previous round, proceed to next symbol | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over | |
= Place 2 stitches on a cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle | |
= Place 2 stitches on a cable needle at the back of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle | |
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitches over |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Celestina Hat |
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Knitted baby hat with cables and garter stitch. Sizes 1 month - 4 years. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.
DROPS Baby 31-7 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: The piece is worked back and forth from mid back and is sewn together mid back to finish. Cast on 123-129-135 (141-147) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work 4 RIDGES – see description above. Then work the next row from right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, A.1 (= 1 stitch) (= 1 stitch increased), * A.2 over the next 21-22-23 (24-25) stitches, A.3 over the next 3 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), A.4 over the next 21-22-23 (24-25) stitches, A.5 over the next 2 stitches (= 1 stitch increased) *, A.1 over the next stitch, 9-10-11 (12-13) stitches in garter stitch, A.3 over the next 3 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased) (= mid front of hat), 9-10-11 (12-13) stitches in garter stitch, A.5 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next stitch (= 1 stitch increased), work from *-* 1 more time, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Then work next row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, *A.5 over 3 stitches, A.4 over 20-21-22 (23-24) stitches (i.e. skip last square in diagram, this stich in A.4 has been decreased in A.3), A.3 over 3 stitches, skip 1st square in diagram A.2, and work the remaining stitches in A.2 over 20-21-22 (23-24) stitches *, A.1 over 2 stitches, A.5 over 3 stitches, 8-9-10 (11-12) stitches in garter stitch (i.e. the stitches in garter stitch are decreased in A.3), A.3 over 3 stitches, 8-9-10 (11-12) stitches in garter stitch (i.e. one stitch in garter stitch has been decreased in A.3), A.1 over 2 stitches, work from *-* 1 more time, A.1 over 2 stitches, purl 1 stitch and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. I.e. There will be 1 stitch less in each A.2 and A.4 (i.e. skip 1 square in the diagram for every 2nd row of diagram A.2 and A.4) and 1 stitch less in garter stitch in mid front on each side of A.3 on every 2nd row because of the decrease in A.3. Continue the pattern like this, i.e. decrease 1 stitch on each side of each A.3 on every row from the right side (= 6 stitches decreased), and increase 1 stitch in each of A.1 and A.5 (= 6 stitches increased). In other words, the number of stitches stays the same, you increase and decrease the same number of stitches, but the ridges mid front and the patterns in A.2 and A.4 are will disappear. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl, garter stitch over garter stitch and cable over cable. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.5 have been worked 1 time in height, continue with knit over knit and garter stitch over garter stitch over these stitches, i.e. do not increase any more. When you do not have enough stitches for the cables, do not work cables; the remaining stitches here are worked in stocking stitch Continue the pattern as before over the remaining stitches, i.e. decrease 6 stitches every 2nd round (= 2 stitches by each A.3), until there are 21 stitches left on the needle. The piece measures approx. 16-16-17 (17-18) cm from the bottom tip of the first and last A.3 (= ear flaps). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Knit 1, knit 2 together, 15 stitches pattern as before, knit 2 together, knit 1 = 19 stitches. Decrease like this in each side every row (from the wrong side purl together the 2 stitches before and after the edge stitches) until there are 5 stitches left on the needle. Cut the yarn and pull the end through the remaining stitches and tighten. ASSEMBLY: Sew the hat together mid back inside the 1 edge stitch. The middle tip of the 3 whole tips (= A.3) on the cast-on edge goes down onto the forehead mid front. CORD: Cast on 4 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm. Work as follows: * Knit 1, move the strand to front of piece (towards you), slip 1 stitch as if to purl, move the strand to back of piece again (away from you) *, work from *-* 1 more time and then continue in the same way on all rows to finished length. You have now worked a round cord. Cast off when the cord measures approx. 20-22-24 (26-28) cm. Work 1 more cord in the same way. Sew the cords to the bottom tip of each ear-flap in each side. ---------------------------------------------------------- For body see DROPS number 31-06. ---------------------------------------------------------- |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (66)
Vera Kjærstad wrote:
Når jeg prøver og skrive ut denne oppskriften fra mobilen blir diagramforklaring og alle diagrammer borte. Håper dette er noe dere kan rette på.
20.03.2021 - 11:44DROPS Design answered:
Hei Vera. Husk å trykke på "Skriv ut" knappen og velg oppskrift, så skal det fungere. Om ikke, må du sjekke dine innstillinger. mvh DROPS design
22.03.2021 - 15:46Gaëlle Miko wrote:
Bonjour, j'avoue que je ne comprends pas bien comment tricoter la suite à partir du tour 3 (= le 3ème tour après les 4 côtes mousses). Dois-je réappliquer exactement la même chose que dans les deux premiers tours ? Dans ce cas, comment A1 et A5 peuvent-ils augmenter tout en gardant le même nombre de mailles au total ? Merci d'avance pour votre explication.
16.01.2021 - 17:36DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Miko, vous tricotez de la même façon les diagrammes, mais vous allez diminuer avec A.3 (= tricotez par ex. la dernière maille de A.2 + la maille de A.3 + la première maille de A.4) et augmentez dans les diagrammes comme indiqué. Vous conservez ainsi le même nombre de mailles. Bon tricot!
18.01.2021 - 08:43Gaëlle Miko wrote:
Bonjour, je voudrais m'assurer que je comprends bien le diagramme A3 : "glisser 2 mailles comme pour les tricoter ensemble à l'endroit, tricoter 1 maille endroit, passer la maille glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée." Il s'agit bien de glisser DEUX mailles, d'en tricoter une à l'endroit et puis de repasser UNE seule, des deux mailles précédemment glissées, au-dessus celle que l'on a tricoté à l'endroit ? Merci d'avance.
12.01.2021 - 16:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Miko, la légende du dernier symbole a été corrigée, on doit bien repasser les 2 mailles glissées par-dessus la maille tricotée, autrement dit, quand on tricote A.3, on diminue 1 maille du diagramme avant A.3 (la première des 2 mailles glissées) et 1 maille du diagramme après A.3 (la maille tricotée). Raison pour laquelle le nombre de mailles avant/après A.3 diminue. Bon tricot!
12.01.2021 - 17:00Tina Knobelsdorf-Mühl wrote:
Wenn dort steht " 1 Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 2 Maschen rechts, die abgehobene Masche überziehen" dann nehme ich damit doch eine Masche ab. Das passiert in A2 und A4. Laut Text soll doch aber die Gesamtmaschenzahl gleich bleiben. Habe ich etwas falsch verstanden?
24.12.2020 - 01:19DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Knobelsdorf-Mühl, ja genau, aber diese "abgenommene" Masche wird bei der nächsten Reihe sofort "zugenommen" (= siehe 4. Reihe in A.2 und A.4) - diese Zöpfe werden über 3 Maschen gestrickt - siehe hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.01.2021 - 07:51Simone wrote:
Liebes Drops-Team, ich bin nun in der 3. Reihe des eigentlichen Musters. Also in der 2. Hinreihe. Muss ich nun in A2 und A4 auch ein Kästchen überspringen, wie ich es in der Rückreihe getan habe? Und auch jeweils bei den kraus rechts gestrickten Maschen eine weniger stricken? Wenn ich das nicht tue, sondern mich an die Maschenangaben der 1. Hinreihe halte, werden es insgesamt mehr Maschen, da A5 ja jetzt schon aus 3 Naschen besteht. Liebe Grüße, Simone
09.12.2020 - 11:02DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Simone, ja genau, wenn Sie in A.3 abnehmen, werden Sie die letzte Masche A.2 + die Abnahme von der vorrigen Hinreihe + die erste Masche A.4 zusammenstricken; und immer so weiterstricken, dh A.3 wird die andere Diagramme "essen" und eine Masche wird jeweils beidseitig von A.3 abgenommen (und weniger im Muster/krausrechts) gestrickt. Die Zunahmen in A.1/A.5 nicht vergessen, so bleibe die Maschenanzahl immer dieselbe. (= 6 Maschen mit A.3 abegnommen und 6 Maschen mit A.1/A.5 zugenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.12.2020 - 15:51PiF wrote:
På varv 2 från avigsidan så stämmer det inte efter kantmaskan och A5, på början av A4, ser inte ut att stämma, har tolkat mönstret att läsa från höger till vänster på rätsidan och läst från vänster till höger på avigsidan. Har jag förstått det fel? När jag tittar på jag stickat så lägger sig inte maskorna rätt över varandra, så jag tolkar det som att det inte kommer stämma i slutet heller. Vad gör jag fel?
24.11.2020 - 12:21DROPS Design answered:
Hei PiF. Ja, du leser diagrammet fra høyre til venstre fra retten, og fra venstre til høyre fra vrangen. I forklaringen til 1. rad fra vrangen er det forklart i teksten at noen masker er felt bort og man skal hopp over noen ruter i diagrammene. Er dette blitt fulgt? mvh DROPS design
30.11.2020 - 11:09PiF wrote:
Stämmer detta mönster? Jag och dotter har försökt sticka detta i några dagar nu men vi får inte ihop det! Nåt är fel. Kan man inte skriva om mönstret med enbart text och ta bort diagrammet helt.
23.11.2020 - 11:59DROPS Design answered:
Hei Pif. Skriv gjerne ned hva dere har problemer med, så skal vi prøve å hjelpe dere så godt vi kan. Opplys også hvilken str dere strikker. Man kan ikke fjerne diagrammet. mvh DROPS design
24.11.2020 - 12:04Kirsten wrote:
Hei! Jeg strikker i str 6/9mnd og etter første rad mønster står jeg med 4 masker igjen. Når jeg legger sammen antall masker i mønsteret blir det bare 125 masker strikket. Hva gjør jeg med de resterende 4 av 129 masker?
29.07.2020 - 11:42DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kirsten, det lyder til at du ikke fået alle udtagninger med ifølge diagrammerne. Prøv at sætte et mærke imellem hver diagram, så du er sikker på at alle masker i diagrammerne strikkes. God fornøjelse!
05.08.2020 - 15:44Kirsten Andersen wrote:
Efter billedet at dømme ser det ud som om, opskriften er forkert. Skal det ikke spejlvendes, således at snoningerne er øverst på hovedet i begge sider ????
12.04.2020 - 08:09DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kirsten, opskriften stemmer, sørg for at følge den nøje i den størrelse du strikker. God fornøjelse!
24.04.2020 - 09:47Marie-Louise Rasmussen wrote:
Hov mente a5 ikke a4
21.02.2020 - 15:31