DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 5.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Viking Heart

Knitted socks with lace pattern and small cables. Size 35-43. Piece is knitted in DROPS Fabel.

DROPS 189-21
DROPS design: Pattern fa-411
Yarn group A
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg height: approx. 16 - 18 - 20 cm
Materials: 
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 102, pink

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 5.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. See diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP:
To get a stronger heel the entire heel and heel decrease can be worked in 2 strands. Use strand inside and outside of ball and work 1 stitch alternately with one and the other strand. This way you get a thicker heel without working with double strand.

HEEL DECREASE: 
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 7-8-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 7-8-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 6-7-7 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until 6-7-7 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
Continue decrease like this with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are 14-14-16 stitches on needle.

DECREASE TIP (applies to toe):
Decrease on each side of marker as follows: Begin 3 stitches before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these two stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from leg and down to toe.
Cast on 64-72-80 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Knit 1 round. Then work as follows: A.1 (= 32-36-40 stitches) 2 times on round. When A.1 has been worked, there are 60-64-68 stitches on round. Continue with A.2 over A.1 (= 2 repetitions of A.2 in width). Continue pattern until piece measures 16-18-20 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now keep the first 5-6-7 stitches on needle for heel, slip the next 35-37-39 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot) and keep the last 20-21-22 stitches on needle for heel. Read KNITTING TIP and work in stocking stitch back and forth over the 25-27-29 heel stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on first row adjust number of stitches to 26-28-30 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker in middle of row, MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above. When heel decrease is done, pick up 13-15-16 stitches on each side of heel and slip the 35-37-39 stitches from stitch holder back on needle = 75-81-87 stitches. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 35-37-39 stitches on top of foot. Continue A.2 over stitches on top of foot, and work in stocking stitch over stitches under foot. Knit the last 2 stitches BEFORE first marker on top of foot together and knit the first 2 stitches AFTER last marker on top of foot twisted together. Decrease like this every other round 9-10-12 times in total = 57-61-63 stitches. Continue A.2 until piece measures approx. 18-19-21 cm from marker on heel (approx. 4-5-6 cm remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side of sock so that there are 28-30-31 stitches on top of foot and 29-31-32 stitches under foot. Now decrease for toes on each side of these two markers and continue with stocking stitch until finished measurements – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other round 4-7-9 times in total and then on every round 6-3-2 times in total = 17-21-19 stitches remain on needle. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 9-11-10 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. 

Knit another sock the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.02.2024
Diagrams are updated.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 and pass slipped stitches over stitches worked
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = purl 2 together
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Mits wrote:

Il y a des erreurs sur chaque diagramme A1 au rang 18 (mailles envers qui devraient être endroit) , et un rang en trop (le premier) sur le diagramme A2 taille 35/37. Êtes vous d'accord ?

19.02.2024 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mitts, effectivement, je transmets à nos stylistes pour une correction de ces 2 diagrammes, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

20.02.2024 - 07:44

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Storlek 35/37. I mönsterdel A.1 har i de två sista varven stickats med räta maskor över "flätan". Alltså ska första varvet i mönsterdelen A.2 "flätan" stickas med sin speciella hoptagning. Men mönstret visar att "flätan" i första varvet i A.2 istället har tre räta maskor, vilket ju gör att det här blir tre varv med räta maskor mellan hoptagningarna. i storlekarna 38/40 och 41/43 finns inte detta första varv med och då blir det rätt.

02.10.2022 - 21:48

country flag Lene Fohlin wrote:

Strikker str 38/40. På mønster A1, linje 12; på begynnelsen av omg blir det 5 rette etter at jeg har gjort følgende; kast, 1 rett, kast, 2 sm, 1 rett. Det blir 5 rett, men på omg nr 13 er det 4 rett. Det må være noe som ikke stemmer

14.04.2022 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lene, Omgangen 12 begynner med 4 rett, 4 vrang, 3 rett osv. God fornøyelse!

19.04.2022 - 10:38

country flag Micaela wrote:

Hej, får inte ihop det riktigt att man ska fortsätta med A. 2 38/40 uppe på foten då man har 37 maskor efter hälminskninen och A. 2 är 32 maskor, då blir ju mönstret fel? Eller vad är det jag missar? Mvh Micaela

04.01.2022 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Micaela, alle de andre masker strikkes i glatstrik, sørg for at A.2 stemmer med det du har strikket tidligere :)

17.01.2022 - 09:40

country flag Luciana wrote:

Nella spiegazione per la calza c'è scritto: "Continuare con A.2 su A.1 (= 2 ripetizioni di A.2 in larghezza). Continuare il motivo fino a quando il lavoro misura. " ma non è indicata la misura. Quanto dev'essere la lunghezza per questa calza prima di iniziare a lavorare il tallone? Grazie!

05.11.2021 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Luciana, abbiamo corretto il testo, grazie per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

05.11.2021 - 20:12

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe das lochmuster A1 nicht. In der 13 ten Reihe bei gr 38/40 sollen am Anfang 2 Umschläge, 2M rechts und eine Masche überzogen gearbeitet werden. In der 14 ten Reihe ergeben sich daraus 5 Maschen. Es sind aber nur 4 Maschen rechts angegeben. Meiner Meinung nach passt der Rapport nicht. Ich bitte um Erklärung

21.06.2021 - 06:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, beim dem schwarzen Dreieck (= 8. Symbol) werden 2 Maschen abenommen, die 2 M sollen zusammen gestrickt werden, (= 2 Umschläge, 2 Abnahmen). Kann es Ihnen helfen?

21.06.2021 - 08:43

country flag Iphi wrote:

Bonjour, comment faire le rang 21 (celui avec jeté et maille décalés) ? Est-ce qu\'il faut faire repasser sur l\'aiguille gauche la dernière maille du rang précédent, faire un jeté, faire repasser le jeté et la dernière maille du rang précédent sur l\'aiguille droite, tricoter ensemble les deux mailles du rang suivant, et ensuite faire passer la dernière maille du rang précédent au-dessus des deux mailles que l\'on vient de tricoter ?

26.03.2021 - 22:53

country flag Su wrote:

Hi! Ik heb een vraag, wanneer je begint begin ik met 32 steken. Dan in de 2e rij, minder je 3 steken tot 1 (recht afhalen, 2 recht samen en rechte steek over die 2 heen). Aan het eind van die enkele rij, ga ik dus van 32 naar 28. In de rij erop, voeg je een omslag toe, en ga ik van 28 naar 30. Maar, dan kom ik er dus 2 tekort. Ik ben nu tussendoor aan het meerderen rondom die steek als tussenoplossing, maar wat moet je hier echt doen? Wat doe ik verkeerd?

07.12.2020 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Su,

Je mindert 2 steken over de 32 steken: 1 steek recht afhalen, 2 recht (NIET 2 RECHT SAMEN) dan de afgehaalde steek over de 2 gebreide steken halen. Dit doe je 2 keer over de 32 steken, dus 2 steken in totaal geminderd. Op de volgende naald komen deze steken er weer bij doordat je omslagen maakt.

11.12.2020 - 14:39

country flag Emily wrote:

Just want to be clear, I work A1 completely abd then change to A2? Or am I missing something?

21.11.2020 - 13:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emily, correct, you first work A.1 one time in height (but 2 times in the round) then work A.2 over A.1 (= 2 times in the round), but also 1 time in height before working heel. You will continue A.2 over the stitches on upper foot while the sts on lower foot will be worked in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

23.11.2020 - 08:36

country flag Theresa Pham wrote:

Det jeg mener er at på den 12.linjen får jeg 5 rette, ikke 4 rette slik mønsteret viser. Det er A.1 str. 38/40 jeg strikker.

18.11.2020 - 12:12