DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Madrid

Knitted sweater with raglan, cables, lace pattern and split in sides, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Cotton Light.

DROPS 188-19
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-089
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 21, light beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 + 40 cm /32" + 16") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 + 40 cm / 32" + 16"') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of each repeat of A.1/A.2 (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 110 stitches), and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 27.5. In this example, increase alternately after every 27th and 28th stitch.
Increase with a yarn over after the stitch and work the yarn over twisted on the next row to avoid a hole.


INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides):
All increases are made from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 stitches together, (marker thread sits here), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.

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SWEATER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down as far as the split at the bottom of the body. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/ short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 110-115-120-125-135-145 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Cotton Light. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 3 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above, where on the first round you increase 4-7-10-9-11-17 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced) = 114-122-130-134-146-162 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Insert a marker here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work pattern as follows: Knit 8-10-12-13-16-20 stitches (= half back piece), make 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 20 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.2 (= 20 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 16-20-24-26-32-40 stitches (= front piece), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.2, 1 yarn over, knit 8-10-12-13-16-20 stitches (= half back piece).
The first increase to RAGLAN – see description above, is now finished. Continue the pattern like this and increase every 2nd round a total of 24-27-30-33-36-39 times = 306-338-370-398-434-474 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When all the increases to raglan are finished, the piece measures 17-19-21-24-26-28 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11''. Continue pattern without increasing until the piece measures 19-21-23-24-26-29 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½''. The next round is worked as follows:
Knit 32-37-42-46-52-59 stitches, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, purl 2, knit 2 (= half back piece), place the next 69-75-81-87-93-99 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), knit 2, purl 2, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, knit 64-74-84-92-104-118 stitches, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, purl 2, knit 2 (= front piece), place the next 69-75-81-87-93-99 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), knit 2, purl 2, work the next 6 stitches in pattern as before, knit 32-37-42-46-52-59 stitches (= half back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-204-224-240-264-292 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on. Continue in the round with knit and A.3 (= 28 stitches) over the 8 new stitches cast on under the sleeves + 10 stitches on each side of these (i.e. 14 stitches on each side of the marker thread in each side). When A.3 has been completed in height, the piece measures 9 cm / 3½''. Continue in the round with knit and on the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides)! Increase like this every 3 cm / 1'' a total of 3 times = 196-216-236-252-276-304 stitches. Continue with knit until the piece measures 16-16-16-17-17-16 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4''. Now divide the piece into front and back pieces, which are finished separately back and forth. Place the one set of 98-108-118-126-138-152 stitches between the marker threads on a thread for the front piece and work the back piece as follows:

BACK PIECE:
= 98-108-118-126-138-152 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 5 stitches garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 23-23-23-24-24-23 cm / 9"-9"-9"-9½"-9½"-9'' increase 30-30-30-37-40-41 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) = 128-138-148-163-178-193 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge. Work rib from the right side as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3 / purl2) until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 3, 5 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch. The piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
= 98-108-118-126-138-152 stitches. Place the other set of stitches back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in the same way as for the back piece.

SLEEVE:
Place the 69-75-81-87-93-99 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece onto double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and, in addition, knit up 1 new stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 77-83-89-95-101-107 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 4 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Work A.4 (= 28 stitches) mid under the sleeve so that there are 14 stitches of A.4 on each side of the marker thread mid under sleeve. The remaining stitches on the round are worked knitted. When the whole of A.4 has been worked in height you have decreased 18 stitches = 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches. Continue to decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 10th-7th-6th-5th-4th-3rd round a total of 7-9-11-13-15-17 times = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue with knit until the sleeve measures 37-35-34-33-32-29 cm / 14½"-13 3/4"-13½"-13"-12½"-11½''. Now increase 5-8-6-9-7-10 stitches evenly on round = 50-55-55-60-60-65 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge. Then work rib (knit 3 / purl 2) until the sleeve measures 42-40-39-38-37-34 cm / 16½"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15"-14½"-13½'' from the division. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = when the diagram has been completed in height, repeat the pattern from the row marked with an arrow
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Astrid Sæter wrote:

Held på å strikke denne og har et lite spørsmål når det gjelder ermene. Hvorfor er ermene lengre jo mindre størrelse? For oftest så bruker det jo å være omvendt. Er det feil i mønsteret? Ser også at det skal økes 8 masker før vrangbord, hvorfor det?

12.06.2018 - 20:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Astrid. Det er riktig at ermene strikkes kortere i større størrelser fordi de ofte har videre skulder/ermkuppel-parti. Det økes masker før vrangborden for at det ikke skal bli så altfor stor viddeforskjell på vrangborden og resten av ermet. Du går ned en pinnestørrelse på vrangborden, i tillegg til at vrangbord naturlig trekker seg litt sammen, så det er for å utgjevne forskjellen litt. God fornøyelse.

15.06.2018 - 15:24

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke die Ärmel und kann das Muster A4 nicht finden. Soll ich jetzt das Muster A3 (28 Maschen) stricken? Komme nicht weiter.

22.05.2018 - 15:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, A.4 finden Sie unten (letzes Diagram), kurz über die Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.05.2018 - 16:09

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Ik zou dit model graag in drops 9 breien maar dat is met naald 3. Is het mogelijk en hoe maak ik mijn berekening? Ik heb normaal een maat M bij jullie modellen. Kan ik BV' nu de hoeveelheid Katoen en het patroon van maat L of XL volgen?

09.05.2018 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne, Om het om te rekenen kun je als volgt te werk gaan: maak een proeflapje met je eigen garen en naalden en bereken dan hoeveel je op zou moeten zetten op basis de stekenverhouding in het patroon en het aantal op te zetten steken volgens het patroon in jouw maat. Daarna kun je kijken of dit overeenkomt met een andere maat en of je dus die maat kunt volgen.

10.05.2018 - 10:48

country flag Carmen Ilies wrote:

Hej,jag förstår inte i diagram 3 i mitten ska man minska 2 mask? jag jorde det och då stämmer inre i andra rad mask nummer. en annan fråga:jag har stickat storlek M men när jag tog av för ärmar då ser inte att modellen fortsätter som det var fortfarande stickad med A1 och A2 som jag ser på bild här hos er. tack på förhand för hjälpen. madrid drops 188-19

08.05.2018 - 05:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, i diagram A.3 ökas det lika många maskor (med omslag) som det minskas på varvet, maskantalet ska hela tiden vara detsamma. När man satt ärmarnas maskor på en tråd ska det fortsättas med A.3 över maskorna i sidan.

17.05.2018 - 17:04

country flag Lotte wrote:

Jeg ser kun diagram A4 nederst på siden under A1 og A2 Kan stadig ikke finde A3??

07.05.2018 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotte, A.3 ligger mellem A.1-A.2 og A.4 altså lige ovenfor A.4....

09.05.2018 - 13:40

Lotte wrote:

Hej Hvor finder jeg A3 (diagram)? Mvh Lotte

04.05.2018 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lotte. A.3 ligger rett under A.1 og A.2 nederst på siden. God fornøyelse

07.05.2018 - 13:33

country flag Pierrette Quilliet wrote:

J'ai commence ce modele mais j'ai un petit souci , j'ai monte 115 mailles puis augmenter de 7 m a la fin du premier rang de l'empiecement je me retrouve avec 15mailles au lieu de 10 mailles comme indiqué sur les explicatons , c'est normal ? j'ai recommence plusieurs fois toujours le meme probleme. je vous remercie d'avance,

16.04.2018 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Quilliet, tricotez les 122 m ainsi: 10 mailles endroit (= demi-dos), 1 jeté, A.1 (= 20 mailles), 1 jeté, 1 maille endroit (= manche), 1 jeté, A.2 (= 20 mailles), 1 jeté, 20 mailles endroit (= devant), 1 jeté, A.1, 1 jeté, 1 maille endroit (= manche), 1 jeté, A.2, 1 jeté, 10 mailles endroit (= demi-dos). = (10 + 1) + 20 + (1 + 1 + 1) + 20 +( 1 + 20 + 1) + 20 +( 1+ 1 + 1) + 20 +( 1 + 10) = 130 m (soit 122 m + 8 jetés). Bon tricot!

16.04.2018 - 13:39

country flag Elena wrote:

Buongiorno, grazie per la risposta, comunque sono riuscita a risolvere. Non dovevo guardare la sequenza dei rovesci sul modello, ma seguire riga per riga, in questo modo il disegno viene corretto, mentre io insistevo a far combaciare i rovesci del lavoro con quelli del diagramma. Ho quasi finito il corpo del maglione ed è venuto veramente bellissimo!

31.03.2018 - 15:26

country flag Elena wrote:

Buonasera, sì è vero il numero delle maglie non cambia, ma se seguo il disegno dei punti a rovescio, che formano una \"scala\", le maglie centrali che mi ritrovo sul secondo ferro di A3 sono 8 e non 10.

29.03.2018 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, i gettati in nero servono a creare la parte esterna della V rovesciata: il numero delle maglie del motivo rimane lo stesso. E' sicura di lavorare il gettato che precede il rovescio nella maniera corretta? Abbiamo provato a lavorare il motivo e non ci sono problemi nel conto delle maglie. Se vuole, può mandare una mail a italian@garnstudio.com con una foto del suo lavoro. Buon lavoro!

30.03.2018 - 22:14

country flag Elena Crema wrote:

Buongiorno, problema con A3 : lavorando il primo ferro dello schema, con le due diminuzioni centrali, mi rimangono solo 8 maglie centrali. Anche calcolando i gettati, lavorati sul ferro successivo a diritto ritorno, il lavoro non combacia con il disegno, perché i punti a rovescio del secondo ferro non seguono lo schema. Potete chiarire questo passaggio? Sono ormai due giorni che provo e riprovo a lavorare questi due ferri, ma il disegno non c'è verso che combaci con il diagramma. Grazie.

29.03.2018 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Elena. Al primo ferro, nella parte centrale, si inizia con 12 maglie e con le due diminuzioni si arriva a 10 maglie; al ferro due le maglie della parte centrale sono 10. In ogni ripetizione, vengono diminuite 4 maglie e aumentate 4 maglie. Il numero di maglie in ogni ripetizione non cambia. Buon lavoro!

29.03.2018 - 17:12