DROPS / 186 / 24

Sandy Wrap by DROPS Design

Wrap-around jacket with lace pattern, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS design: Pattern z-813
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-35-400-450 g colour 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 01, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm for rib – or size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 2 pieces for all sizes
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 93 stitches), minus edge stitches in garter stitch (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 5.3. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch and do not increase over stitches in garter stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 45 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 6.4. In this example knit approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.
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JACKET:
Piece is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down, in several parts and sewn tog when finished. The sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up.

BACK PIECE:
Work right shoulder as follows:
Cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= towards the neck), knit until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= towards armhole).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until 2 stitches remain, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Cut the yarn and put piece aside.
Work left shoulder as follows:
Cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= towards armhole), knit until 2 stitches remain, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= towards the neck).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Now work right and left shoulder together as follows: Turn piece (= left shoulder) and work as before over the 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches, cast on 15-15-17-17-19-19 new stitches at the end of row (= neck), then work the 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches on right shoulder on to needle = 71-75-81-85-91-95 stitches for back piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work the new stitches cast on for neck mid back in garter stitch, work the other stitches on back piece in stocking stitch and in garter stitch as before (i.e. work the middle 19-19-21-21-23-23 stitches + 1 edge stitch in each side in garter stitch, work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch). When 2 ridges have been worked over the new stitches, continue in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 12-13-13-14-14-13 cm from cast-on edge, cast on new stitches at the end of every row in each side for armhole as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-1-2-2-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 4 stitches 1 time = 87-93-101-109-119-129 stitches.
Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm from the last stitches cast on for armhole, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 14-15-15-16-17-17 cm 3 times in total = 93-99-107-115-125-135 stitches. Continue until piece measures 49-52-54-56-59-61 cm from shoulder and down.
Now increase 17-16-18-20-20-25 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly) = 110-115-125-135-145-160 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 4 stitches remain on row, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Piece measures approx. 54-57-59-61-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Now work pattern from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 13 stitches), 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME increase for the front piece and armhole as follows:
When piece measures 2 cm from cast-on edge, begin increase for the front piece. Increase 1 stitch before A.1 + 2 stitches in garter stitch - remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every other row 52-55-57-59-63-65 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-13-13-14-14-13 cm from cast-on edge, cast on new stitches for armholes at the end of every row from wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-1-2-2-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 4 stitches 1 time (= 8-9-10-12-14-17 new stitches in total for armhole). Work the new stitches for armhole in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm from the last stitches cast on for armhole, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Increase like this every 14-15-15-16-17-17 cm 3 times in total. When all increases are done there are 91-97-102-108-116-123 stitches. Piece measures approx. 49-52-54-56-59-61 cm from shoulder and down. Now increase 20-19-24-28-30-38 stitches evenly = 111-116-126-136-146-161 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 5 stitches remain, knit 3, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Piece measures approx. 54-57-59-61-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Now work pattern from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.2 (= 13 stitches), knit 12-14-16-18-20-22, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME increase for the front piece and armhole as follows:
When piece measures 2 cm from cast-on edge, begin increase for the front piece. Increase 1 stitch after 2 edge stitches in garter stitch + A.2 - remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every other row 52-55-57-59-63-65 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-13-13-14-14-13 cm from cast-on edge, cast on new stitches for armholes at the end of every row from right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-1-2-2-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 4 stitches 1 time (= 8-9-10-12-14-17 new stitches in total for armhole). Work the new stitches for armhole in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm from the last stitches cast on for armhole, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Increase like this every 14-15-15-16-17-17 cm 3 times in total. When all increases are done there are 91-97-102-108-116-123 stitches. Piece measures approx. 49-52-54-56-59-61 cm from shoulder and down. Now increase 20-19-24-28-30-38 stitches evenly = 111-116-126-136-146-161 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 4 stitches remain, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Piece measures approx. 54-57-59-61-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 45-50-50-55-55-60 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 4 stitches remain, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row while decreasing 7-11-8-13-10-14 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP (evenly) = 38-39-42-42-45-46 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 9-8-9-9-5-11 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Increase like this approx. every 6-5-4-3-3-2 cm 6-7-8-10-11-12 times in total = 50-53-58-62-67-70 stitches. When sleeve measures 43-42-41-40-39-37 cm, cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-4 times, 1 stitch 3-4-4-4-4-4 times, 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-3-3 times and 4 stitches 1 time = 12-13-14-18-19-18 stitches. Work 1 row. Cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-52-51-50-50-49. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-on edges. Sew sleeves in body. Sew seam under sleeves and then down the side seam. Sew a button on left side seam (on right side of garment) directly over rib.
Sew the other button on right side seam (on inside of garment) directly over rib. Garment is closed by buttoning through a hole in pattern A.1/A.2 at the bottom by rib.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.05.2018
LEFT FRONT PIECE:... Work rib from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 4 stitches remain, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl...

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Barb Hilton 22.10.2019 - 14:34:

What is the gauge for this pattern? I don't see it listed...

DROPS Design 22.10.2019 kl. 14:37:

Dear Mrs Hilton, you will find the gauge for both needle sizes under the header. Happy knitting!

Carine Nuyts 15.09.2019 - 20:22:

Ik zou deze trui graag breien met Drops Alpaca Silk (cat.C). Hoeveel gram heb ik hiervoor nodig?

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 08:12:

Dag Carine,

Dat kan ik niet met zekerheid zeggen, omdat er geen berekening van is, maar dit zal naar schatting ongeveer 200-200-225-250-275-275 zijn. Koop evt. een bol extra en vraag je verkooppunt op welke termijn je overgebleven bollen in kunt leveren.

Bente Madsen 19.06.2018 - 19:56:

Jeg forstår ikke udtagningen på højre forstykke før mønster A1 skal der både 1maske ud +2 masker ret så kommer der alt for mange masker?

DROPS Design 21.06.2018 kl. 14:28:

Hei Bente. Du skal kun øke 1 maske før A.1. Altså, du skal øke fra rettsiden, før du strikker A.1 etterfulgt av de 2 maskene med rille. God fornøyelse.

Cornelia 24.04.2018 - 19:24:

Bei den Vorderteilen soll man 1 Masche vor A.1 + 2 kraus rechten Maschen zunehmen. Heißt das, daß ich eine Masche vor A.1 und eine weitere vor den beiden Randmaschen zunehme (und umgekehrt beim linken Vorderteil) oder nehme ich 1 Masche zwischen A.1 und den Randmaschen zu?

DROPS Design 25.04.2018 kl. 08:02:

Liebe Cornelia, die Zunahmen werden am Ende der Glatt-rechts gestrickten Partie gestrickt, Sie stricken bis die Maschen A.1 bleiben, dann nehmen Sie 1 M zu, und beenden die Reihe mit A.1 und 2 M krausrippe (= rechtes Vorderteil). Beim linken Vorderteil werden Sie am Anfang der Glattrechts Partie zunehmen, dh: 2 M krausrippe, A.2, Zunahme, und die übrigen Maschen stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Oksana 11.04.2018 - 20:24:

It is written: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 5 stitches remain, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Question: if 5 left -K 3 +1 edge..where is another stitch

DROPS Design 12.04.2018 kl. 08:41:

Dear Oksana, it looks like you should work on left front piece until 4 sts remain and knit 3, 1 st in garter st. Our Design Team has been informed , a correction should come soon. Happy knitting!

Annie Soulié 30.01.2018 - 09:29:

Mon coup de coeur pour l'hiver prochain.

Isa 03.01.2018 - 00:21:

Quero mesmo muito fazer este modelo! Já me imagino com ele nas noites de verão à beira-mar!!!

Sylvie 13.12.2017 - 12:10:

Ce modèle a croisé mon cœur !

Christine Thebault-Smith 13.12.2017 - 06:49:

This pattern had now made its way to the very top of my list!

Chloé Thiffault 12.12.2017 - 18:12:

Ce modèle fait partie de mes coups de coeur.

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