DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 186-21
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-714
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements:
Circumference: approx. 80 cm / 31½''
Height: approx. 38 cm / 15'' (including bottom)
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g color 27, peach
150 g color 38, raspberry
100 g color 29, light ice blue
100 g color 28, navy blue
50 g color 10, dark turquoise
50 g color 07, heather
50 g color 37, rusty red

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM/E/4 – or the size needed to get 18 double crochets and 10.5 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

WOODEN BEADS: 4 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFO:
Each round of double crochets starts with 3 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
Each round of single crochets starts with 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first single crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet on the round (does not apply in diagram A.5).
Each round that starts by working 3 double crochets together, starts with 3 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet), skip 1 double crochet on the previous round, work 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3 double crochets worked together.
Some of the pattern will displace the round’s start and finish.
Some of the rounds are worked in the back loop of the stitches from the previous round; see star in diagrams.

COLOR PATTERN:
When changing color at the beginning of a round, work the slip stitch at the end of the previous round with the new color.
When working with several colors on a round work as follows:
When changing colors work as follows: Work the last double crochet /single crochet with the first color, but wait with the last pull through, change to the next color and work the last pull through and then the next double crochet/single crochet with the new color.
When working with 2 colors, lay the strand you are not working with over the stitches from the previous round and work around the strand so that it is hidden and carried forward. Make sure that this strand is not tight and is loose when picked up from the previous round.
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BAG:
The piece is worked in the round. The bottom is worked first with pattern and increases. Then you work upwards without increasing. At the top you work a row of holes for the cord. The handle is worked separately and sewn onto the bag to finish. You also make a twisted cord which is thread up and down through the row of holes at the top of the bag and tassels which are fastened on to the cord.

Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and raspberry and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked. Then work A.1 a total of 6 times in the round – read CROCHET INFO and COLOR PATTERN.
When A.1 has been completed there are 36 double crochets on the last round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work A.2 a total of 12 times in the round. When A.2 has been completed there are 144 single crochets on the last round. The increases are now finished. The piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' in diameter
Work A.3 a total of 36 times in the round. Then work A.4 a total of 12 times in the round. Cut and fasten the strands when A.4 has been worked 1 time in height.

HANDLE:
The handle is worked in the round with peach. You work from the middle of the handle and outwards, in other words you first work a row of chain stitches, then you work in the round on both sides of this row. A.5 and A.6 = the ends of the handle, i.e. you start and finish with A.5 and A.6 is then worked at the other end of the handle.
Work 93 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn = 1 double crochet) with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and peach.
ROUND 1: Work A.5 as follows: In the 4th chain stitch from the hook work as follows: Work 1 double crochet (= 2 double crochets), 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch until there is 1 chain stitch left, in the next chain stitch work A.6 as follows: Work 2 double crochets, 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets, rotate the chain stitches so that you are now working on the opposite side, continue working in the same chain stitch: 2 double crochets, 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch until there is 1 chain stitch left in the opposite side (i.e. the same chain stitch you worked in at the beginning of the round), work A.5 as follows: 2 double crochets, 1 chain stitch and 2 double crochets in the last chain stitch = 104 double crochets and 4 chain stitches.
ROUND 2: Work A.5, 1 double crochet in each double crochet as far as A.6, work A.6, work 1 double crochet in each double crochet as far as the last part of A.5, work A.5 = 120 double crochets and 4 chain stitches.
ROUND 3: Work A.5, 1 single crochet in the back loop of each double crochet as far as A.6, work A.6, 1 single crochet in the back loop of each double crochet to the last part of A.5, work A.5 = 136 single crochets and 4 chain stitches.
Cut and fasten the strand. Fasten the handle to the inside on each side of the bag.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 2 strands of navy blue of approx. 2 metres/2.2 yds. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold them double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in the loose end; fasten the strands in this end into the twisted cord. Thread the cord up and down through the row of holes in the bag.

TASSELS:
You work 1 large and 3 small tassels which are fastened to the ends of the twisted cord as follows:
1 LARGE TASSEL: Make a tassel of approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' with navy blue, thread 1wooden bead onto the strand which fastens the tassel at the top and fasten the tassel to one end of the cord.
3 SMALL TASSELS: Make 1 tassel of approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' with each of the colors rusty red, heather and raspberry; thread 1 wooden bead onto the strand each of the tassels is fastened with at the top and fasten the tassels to the other end of the cord.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 4 chain stitches with raspberry and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch
symbols = this round is worked in the back loop of the stitches from the previous round
symbols = the last round on the previous diagram, this round shows how the next round is worked in the stitches from the previous round - Start on the next round
symbols = double crochet in stitch and around the chain stitch ring with raspberry
symbols = double crochet in stitch with dark turquoise
symbols = double crochet in stitch with light ice blue
symbols = double crochet in stitch with heather
symbols = double crochet in stitch with peach
symbols = double crochet in stitch with navy blue
symbols = double crochet in stitch with rusty red
symbols = single crochet in stitch with navy blue
symbols = single crochet in stitch with raspberry
symbols = single crochet in stitch with rusty red
symbols = single crochet in back loop of stitch with peach
symbols = single crochet around chain stitch with peach
symbols = chain stitch with peach
symbols = work 2 double crochets together with peach as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 double crochet in the next stitch, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook.
symbols = work 2 double crochets together with light ice blue
symbols = work 3 double crochets together with peach as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, but wait with the last pull through, pull the strand through all 4 loops on the hook.
symbols = work 3 double crochets together with navy blue
symbols = work 3 double crochets together with rusty red
symbols = work 3 double crochets together with light ice blue
symbols = work with peach: The round starts with 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet (= 2 double crochets), the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = work 2 double crochets around the chain stitch
symbols = work with peach: The round starts with 3 chain stitches (replaces the first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = work with peach: The round starts with 1 chain stitch (replaces the first single crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 186-21

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Sylviane Gaspard wrote:

Voici le resultat de mon travail ! Je suis ravie. Vos explications sont trés complètes et merci pour vos réponses rapides. Juste une remarque, les diagrammes A5 et A6 sont difficiles à comprendre, il faudrait rajouter le sens de lecture de ces schémas car on ne sait pas trop dans quel sens les lire et oû ils commencent. Encore merci

12.07.2022 - 10:26

country flag Sylviane wrote:

Lorsqué je dois compter mes mailles (par exemple on me dit que je dois avoir 36 mailles a la fin du tour,) est ce que je dois compter la maille que j'ai sur mon crochet comme 1 maille ou bien je compte uniquement les mailles tricotées ?

07.07.2022 - 00:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylviane, la boucle sur le crochet compte rarement comme une maille, ce qui compte c'est le nombre de brides que vous avez réellement réalisé (comptez les "pieds" des brides par exemple), mais sinon, effectivement la boucle sur le crochet est la fin de la dernière bride, mais ne la comptez pas 2 fois. Bon crochet!

07.07.2022 - 08:57

country flag Sylviane wrote:

Bonjour, doit-on compter la maille que l'on a sur le crochet comme 1 maille ? Merci.

29.06.2022 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylviane, je suis désolée, je ne suis pas sûre de bien comprendre votre question, dans quel contexte souhaitez-vous savoir cela? À quel niveau du modèle/motif/diagramme?

30.06.2022 - 09:23

country flag Sylviane Gaspard wrote:

Bonjour, pouvez vous me confirmer que l'on crochète donc en regardant l'envers du travail . L'endroit du travail est derrière puisque les changements de couleur se font fil devant. C'est bien cela ?

23.06.2022 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gaspard, on crochète tous les tours sur l'endroit - cette vidéo montre comment crocheter un jacquard en rond, en faisant suivre la couleur non crochetée. Bon crochet!

24.06.2022 - 08:55

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Je suis arrivée au crochet de la poignée. pas de souci pour le 1er rang Pourriez vous m expliquer pour les 2eme et 3eme rangs? Je ne comprends pas les diagrammes 5et6 merci beaucoup

13.04.2020 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, croch. le tour 2 de A.5 ainsi: 3 ml en pêche, puis 2 b, 1 ml, 2 b autour de la ml suivante, 1 b dans chacune des 2 b suivantes (A.5 est fini, continuez en b) et crochetez ensuite A.6 de droite à gauche: 1 b dans les 2 premières b , 2 b, 1 ml, 2 b dans la ml, 1 b dans les 4 b suivantes, 2 b, 1 ml, 2 b dans la ml, 1 b dans les 2 b suivantes.... puis A.5 de nouveau: 1 b dans les 2 premières b, 2 b, 1 ml, 2 b dans la ml, 1 b dans les 2 premières b et 1 mc dans la 3ème ml. Lisez le dernier rang de la même façon de gauche à droite: la fin de A.5, puis A.6 en entier et terminez A.5 en lisant de bas en haut en remontant sur la ml du début du tour. Bon crochet!

14.04.2020 - 13:03

country flag Vivian Walmsley wrote:

I love this bag but I need a written pattern , is there one available , thanks for your time

22.03.2020 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vivian we are sorry, but there is no written out pattern for this piece. However it is well worth the effort to learn how to make sense of diagrams, as they not only show you the very next step, but also that how the other stitches and rows relate to each other. we do have a lesson on how to read crochet patterns here, and don't forget, you can always ask for help either in person or over the phone in teh store where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!

22.03.2020 - 18:33

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Bonsoir, pourriez vous m indiquer comment on crochète le rang 2 de A3 ?

17.03.2020 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, bien sûr, crochetez: *en pêche, crocheter 3 brides ensemble ainsi: Crocheter 1 bride dans la première maille, mais ne pas faire le dernier jeté, crocheter 1 bride dans chacune des 2 mailles suivantes, mais ne pas faire le dernier jeté, écouler les 4 boucles sur le crochet. (= 19ème symbole) puis en bleu marine : écouler 3 brides ensemble (= 20ème symbole)*, Répétez de *-* tout le tour 36 fois au total. Bon crochet!

18.03.2020 - 08:34

country flag Silvia wrote:

Hallo, ich würde gerne die Wolle für diese Tasche bestellen, kann aber die Farben Koralle und Erika nicht finden. LG

03.04.2019 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Silvia, alle Farben sind immer noch lieferbach, nur die Namen wurde angepasst, schauen Sie mal nach der Farbennumer, bzw Farbe 38 und 07. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.04.2019 - 09:25

country flag Elena wrote:

Como puedo conseguir el patrón del bolso. Me gustaría tener el gráfico. Gracias

13.03.2019 - 12:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Elena. Tienes el diagrama del bolso con todas las abreviaturas bajo el patrón.

16.03.2019 - 16:06

country flag Jette Lund wrote:

Hej med jer Jeg er nu kommet i gang og r nået til A3. Jeg har for mange masker, men det betyder vel bare, at tasken bliver større: Det er en meget forvirrende opskrift. F.eks. at A3 skal hækles rundt 36 gange?, men på fotoet er det a kun en gang, at mønsteret er?

28.06.2018 - 18:38