DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sunrise Hues

Knitted shawl with zigzag pattern and stripes. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 187-26
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-811

Yarn group A
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Measurement:
Length along edge where stitches are cast on: approx. 170 cm/66"
Width from cast on edge to cast off edge in the widest side: approx. 55 cm/21½".

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g color 100, off white
100 g color 2923, golden rod
50 g color 2915, orange
50 g color 2921, pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 39 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

STRIPES:
Change color at the beginning of a row from the wrong side.
Work stripes as follows:
Work 1st row with off-white from the right side, * Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with golden rod *, repeat from *-* until you have worked 55 rows. The last row is worked from the right side; on this row bind off 15 stitches at the beginning of the row.
* Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with orange *, repeat from *-* until you have worked 54 rows. The last row is worked from the right side; on this row bind off 15 stitches at the beginning of the row.
* Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with golden rod *, repeat from *-* until you have worked 6 rows. The last row is worked from the right side.
* Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with pink *, repeat from *-* until you have worked 48 rows. The last row is worked from the right side; on this row bind off 15 stitches at the beginning of the row.
* Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with golden rod *, repeat from *-* until you have worked 54 rows.
*Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with orange *, repeat from *-* until you have worked 6 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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SHAWL:
The shawl has an asymmetrical shape and it is knitted after a diagram. There is decreases in one side and increases in the other side.

Cast on 15 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and off white. Work according to A.1 – see start-arrow. Work STRIPES – see description above. On the 7th row cast on 15 new stitches at the end of the row = 30 stitches. Continue A.1 upwards. Every 6th row cast on 15 new stitches at the end of the row. At the beginning of the 55th row bind off the first 15 stitches and then continue to bind off every 54th row as described under stripes. Continue with pattern according to A.1, increasing and binding off until the stripes with off white and pink have been completed – you have now bind off 3 times in the side and cast on new stitches 27 times = 375 stitches on the needle. Now continue without increasing or binding off until all the stripes have been worked. Then bind off all stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.05.2018
STRIPES: Change colour at the beginning of a row from the wrong side. Work stripes as follows: Work 1st row with off-white from the right side, * Work 2 rows with off white, 2 rows with golden rod *,...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 stitches together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = cast on 1 new stitch
symbols = bind off 1 stitch
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Luisa wrote:

Chiedo scusa ma non mi é chiaro come funziona lo schema. Io monto 15 m con il primo colore, ogni settimo ferro aggiungo 15 m fino ad arrivare a 55 ferri, a questo punto aggiungo 15m con il secondo colore con cui lavoro 54 f, al 55esimo aggiungo 15m del terzo colore e lavoro 6 f etc? Giusto?

12.07.2022 - 00:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Luisa, dal 55 ferro deve iniziare ad intrecciare le maglie come indicato. Per il cambio colori deve fare riferimento a quanto riportato nel paragrafo "Strisce". Buon lavoro!

13.07.2022 - 00:09

country flag Luisa wrote:

Buongiorno se voglio farlo più grande, come faccio? Lavoro 2 schemi di seguito?

11.07.2022 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Luisa, se vuole lavorarlo più grande può aggiungere delle ripetizioni al motivo. Buon lavoro!

11.07.2022 - 21:58

country flag Torunn Mikkelsen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke om det skal klippes tråd eller ikke etter økning av 15 masker - det står litt ulikt i kommentarene. Så lurer jeg på om det er kun 2 pinner natur i starten eller er det tre siden det står en pinne før stjernen?

04.05.2021 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Torunn, Hvor i opskriften skriver vi at det skal klippes tråd? Ja du strikker 1.pind med natur fra retsiden og så 2 pinde mere siden du bytter tråd på begynnelsen av en pinne fra vrangen :)

06.05.2021 - 15:45

country flag Eveline wrote:

What you suggest, to change color at RS (this would be row 3 / 5 /7 etc) is not what the pattern tells us to do. It clearly state to change color on wrong side. Knit first 3 rows off white, row 4 golden, row 6 off white, so I should start row 8 with golden. Only then there's no golden tread at the end of the new casts ons.. So maybe what you suggest to change on the RS will make it possible. Do you believe this is a mistake in the pattern? Or am I reading it wrong?

27.01.2021 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eveline, you are right, my mistake sorry. Colour changes should be from WS - that means you will have to cut the yarn when casting the new stitches, you can cast on either with the colour of the last row from RS worked or then with the colour of the next colour that will be worked from WS. Happy knitting!

28.01.2021 - 08:46

country flag Eveline wrote:

Hello, can you explain how I have to switch form off white to golden rod from row 7 to row 8? On row 7 I have to cast on 15 more stiches working in off white, but have to change to golden rod on row 8. Is there a way or do I have to cut cords every 15 stiches? That would be so terrible. .

26.01.2021 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eveline, you are working each time 2 rows with the same colour: work row 7 to the end of the row, cast on the new stitches, turn and work row 8 with the same colour. Turn change colour and work the next 2 rows. Colour changes should be at the right side of piece, seen from RS, ie at the beg of row from RS. Happy knitting!

26.01.2021 - 16:41

country flag Yvette wrote:

Ik snap iets niet aan dit patroon. Ik heb de eerste 7 naalden gebreidt (3 naturel, 2 oker, 2 naturel) en moet nu 15 steken aan het eind toevoegen. Maar als ik dan omkeer om rij 8 te breien moet ik overgaan op de okerkleur, echter die zit dan niet daar aan het eind van die nieuwe 15 steken.. Hoe doe je dit? Omdat dit een sjaal is wil ik de draad niet aan de andere kant meenemen, dus iets klopt niet. Hopelijk maak ik mezelf zo duidelijk en kunt u het uitleggen. Vr. gr.

19.01.2021 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvette,

Na het opzetten van de 15 steken zul je steeds de draad af moeten knippen om met de andere kleur te beginnen.

23.01.2021 - 10:58

country flag Carol Ibbetson wrote:

Hello again. Just checked the chart key again and realised it is non standard. i.e. a blank square is knit on BOTH sides. This could easily cause issues to a UK knitter who would be used to seeing a 'dot' for a stitch that is knit on the WS. Rest of my comments hold true though - many thanks

15.04.2019 - 16:50

country flag Carol Ibbetson wrote:

From a UK tech editor working on this pattern for a magazine. - chart shows stocking st instead of garter st - Color changes must be made on RS rows in garter st, not WS - Photo should be flipped vertically to match pattern Happy to check any patts if required. Just msg me. Thanks C

15.04.2019 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ibbeston, the diagram key is correct to this pattern: all stitches should be worked in garter stitch = knit from right side and from wrong side. Happy knitting!

23.04.2019 - 16:01

country flag DS Meyer wrote:

It might be helpful to clarify the chart. The 15 stitches are as folliws, K2tog, knit 5, yo, knit 1, yo, knit5, SKP. I misread the chart before sending my earlier comment.

22.03.2019 - 19:25

country flag DS Meyer wrote:

With both a K2tog and a SKP on every right side row, the original 15 stitches decrease 2 stitches every row; with 1 yarnover, then the stitchs before and after the yarnover change each row. How do you keep 15 stitches and create the chevron look?

22.03.2019 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Meyer, you will keep 15 sts until row 7 then cast on 15 new sts at the end of row 7- since the number of decrease is compensated by the number of YOs you will keep the same number of sts. Happy knitting!

25.03.2019 - 08:34