DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Mina Cardigan

Jacket with round yoke, Norwegian pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 191-21
DROPS design: Pattern fl-024
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 03, light grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 05, dark grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 13, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 19, coral

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 8-8-8-8-9-9 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

KNITTING TIP-1 (applies to bands):
When working pattern border with two colours on yoke, also work with base colour in pattern border over the 5 band stitches in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if needed.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase on needle, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 125 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 11.5.
In this example decrease by knitting alternately approx. every 10th and 11th stitch and every 11th and 12th stitch together. When increasing make 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 11th and 12th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase/decrease over bands.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between sleeves and body. Work until 1 stitch remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Increase 8 stitches in total on every increase row.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body): 
Work until 8 stitches remain before marker thread in the side, make 1 yarn over, knit 16 (marker thread is in the middle of these 16 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 7-7-7-7-8-8 buttonholes, approx. 8-8-8½-8½-8-8 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Work yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 125-128-134-140-146-152 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with light grey. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 6 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches on needle in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When rib is done, knit 1 row from right side while at the same time decreasing 10-9-11-9-7-9 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 115-119-123-131-139-143 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the yoke if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on needle = mid back. Begin from right side with light grey and knit 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches past stitch with marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 19-21-23-25-27-29. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 28-31-34-37-40-43, turn, tighten yarn and purl 37-41-45-49-53-57.
Continue back and forth like this by working 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches more every time until the middle 73-81-89-97-105-113 stitches have been worked and work last row from wrong side. Purl the rest of round (knit the band).

YOKE:
= 115-119-123-131-139-143 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND KNITTING TIP-2!
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until 6 stitches remain on row (= 26-27-28-30-32-33 repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.1A increase evenly as explained below – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Arrow-1: Increase 20-20-20-32-32-36 stitches evenly = 135-139-143-163-171-179 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 8-8-8-16-14-12 stitches evenly = 143-147-151-179-185-191 stitches.
There is now room for 33-34-35-28-29-30 repetitions with A.1A of 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches. Then increase as shown in A.1A.
Arrow-3: There are now 275-283-291-291-301-311 stitches on needle and every repetition with A.1A goes over 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches. Increase AT THE SAME TIME 18-16-20-26-28-30 stitches evenly on this row = 293-299-311-317-329-341 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 6-6-6-14-10-6 stitches evenly = 299-305-317-331-339-347 stitches.
Work until A.1 has been worked. Then purl 1 row from wrong side with light grey while increasing 0-0-4-6-6-4 stitches evenly (knit bands and do not increase over bands) = 299-305-321-337-345-351 stitches.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches):
Insert first marker thread after the first 50-51-53-57-60-63 stitches on row, insert 2nd marker thread after the next 55-56-60-60-58-55 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 89-91-95-103-109-115 stitches (= back piece) and insert fourth marker thread after the next 55-56-60-60-58-55 stitches (= sleeve). 50-51-53-57-60-63 stitches remain on row after last marker thread.
Now work in stocking stitch back and forth in light grey and with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 5-9-11-13-16-19 times in total on each side of the 4 marker threads = 339-377-409-441-473-503 stitches.
Work without increases until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work 55-60-64-70-76-82 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 99-109-117-129-141-153 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 55-60-64-70-76-82 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 229-249-269-293-321-349 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 60-65-70-76-83-90 stitches in from each side (there are now 109-119-129-141-155-169 stitches between marker threads on back piece).
Continue with stocking stitch, light grey and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band. When piece measures 3 cm from division, increase 2 stitches in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½ cm 12 times in total in each side = 277-297-317-341-369-397 stitches.
When piece measures 35 cm from division, purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 55-59-63-66-74-79 stitches evenly (knit bands and do not increase over bands) = 332-356-380-407-443-476 stitches.
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain on row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Cast off from right side with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 75-84-94-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2-2-3-2-3-2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 10th-7th-5th-5th-4th-4th round 13-17-21-22-23-24 times in total = 49-50-52-54-58-61 stitches. Continue until piece measures 41-40-38-36-35-33 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 8-10-11-12-11-11 stitches evenly = 57-60-63-66-69-72 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time cast off (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = light grey
symbols = dark grey
symbols = denim blue
symbols = coral
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with light grey On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = increase row
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Lise Grignon wrote:

Bonjour, je suis du Québec et j’ai un problème. Je tricote Le modèle fl-024 et après la flèche 4 et 339 mailles; le patron ne concorde plus. Devrais-je défaire jusqu’à la flèche 4 et augmenter plus de mailles? Merci en avance. Lise Grignon

07.08.2022 - 02:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grignon, continuez les diagrammes ainsi (vu sur l'endroit): 5 m point mousse, répétez 41 fois les 8 mailles de A.1A, tricotez A.1B et terminez par 5 m point mousse, soit: 5+ (8*41) + 1 +5= 339 mailles. Bon tricot!

08.08.2022 - 07:37

country flag Heléne wrote:

Jag förstår inte hur resåren längst ner på koftan ska stickas.. vad är det för skillnad på en rät maska och rätstickning? Det blir ju bara rätstickning av det, ingen resår???

19.04.2021 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helene. Slik det er forklart blir det en veldig fin vrangbordt. Husk å lese forklaringen til Rätstickning (stickas fram och tillbaka): Maskorna stickas räta på alla varv. Se gjerne video: Hur man stickar ett enkelt och fint strukturmönster som ligner på vrangborden i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

19.04.2021 - 15:33

country flag Anja wrote:

Ska man inte byta till stickor 2,5 för resåren som avslutar fram- och bakstycke?

02.02.2021 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anja. Resåren längst ner på tröjan ska göras med * 1 rätmaska, 2 maskor i rätstickning * (till skillnad från övriga resårer som är 1 rätmaska, 2 avigmaskor) så här ska det inte bytas till en mindre sticka. Mvh DROPS Design

03.02.2021 - 08:00

country flag Anja wrote:

Se upp med resåren som avslutar fram och bakstycket. Enligt mönstret ska den bara stickas i räta maskor.

31.01.2021 - 12:00

country flag Helena wrote:

Bzw. Ich habe mir jetzt noch einmal das Muster im Bild angeschaut. Die 8. letzte Reihe müsste auch schon über 8 Maschen gehen, oder? Dh immer 7 M weiß, 1M blau. Stimmt das?

18.01.2021 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Helena, sorry für die verspäte Antwort, Ihre Frage wurde leider übersehen, ja genau, A.1 wird bei der letzten Reihen über 8 Maschen gestrickt, so wiederholen Sie 40 Mal diese 8 M: 5 Blende-Maschen, A.1A (= 8M x 40 = 320 M), A.1B ( 1 M), 5 Blende-Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.04.2021 - 14:03

country flag Helena wrote:

Liebes Dropsteam, leider geht bei mir in Größe XL nach dem 4. Pfeil in der Passe das Muster nicht mehr auf. Ich habe dann 331 M insgesamt. Minus 10 BlendenM=321M, Minus 1M für A.1B= 320M übrig für A.1A. Der Rapport von A.1A ist 6M breit, was aber mit den 320 M nicht aufgeht. Es bleiben dann zwei M übrig. Können Sie mir weiter helfen? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße

18.01.2021 - 09:06

country flag Lis Søderberg wrote:

Tak for hurtigt svar på mit spørgsmål fra i går. Jeg har skrevet forkert, det størrelse XL og maskerne passer, og det er det rigtige diagram jeg bruger. Jeg er ved pind 46 og 47. På pind 46 er hver 6. maske jeansblå, og på pind 47 er hver 4. maske koral. På billedet kan jeg se, at den jeansblå maske skal ligge under hver anden koral. Det syntes jeg ikke jeg kan få til at passe. Hver 6. maske kan ikke rigtig gå op i hver anden 4. maske på næste pind.

21.10.2019 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lis, det kan være en anden størrelse du ser på billedet, så det kan du ikke regne med. Det er vigtigt at du følger diagrammet, så antallet masker går op på omgangen. God fornøjelse!

21.10.2019 - 16:59

country flag Lis Søderberg wrote:

Jeg strikker trøjen i str xxl, og syntes ikke at diagrammet passer efter udtagning . Jeg har nu ialt 331 masker. På 3. pind efter udtagning strikkes jeansblå på hver 6. maske, og på pind 4 strikkes koral på hver 4. maske. Det ser meget usymetrisk ud, slet ikke som på billedet, hvor den blå ligger lige under hver anden koral. Jeg kan ikke se hvordan det skal komme til at passe? Jeg har løst det ved at droppe den jeansblå på 3.pind.,

20.10.2019 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lis. Litt uskikker på hvor du er i oppskriften. Husk at det både er markert med økepinne (pil i diagrammet) og økninger (kast i diagrammet. I oppskriften er det ved Pil. 4 331 masker, men det er i størrelse XL, i str XXL skal det være 339 masker. Husk også velge riktig diagram til din størrelse. Første gang det skal strikkes med jeansblå (A.1A) er på rad 20 og det er da 8 masker med lys grå mellom jeansblå. mvh DROPS design

21.10.2019 - 12:15

country flag Lene Bangsgaard wrote:

Kan denne model strikkes i Drops air garn?

16.03.2019 - 08:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lene. Denne genseren er strikket i garn fra garngruppe A, som har en helt annen strikkefatshet enn Air, som tilhører garngruppe C. Air er mye tykkere enn Flora så da vil genseren bli altfor stor, dessverre. Du kan bytte med andre garn innenfor garngruppe A om du vil strikke i et annet garn. God fornøyelse

21.03.2019 - 14:56

country flag Deb Weber wrote:

Under neck edge, it states cast on 125 stitches (including 5 band stitches). Do I cast on 125 or 135?

20.01.2019 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deb, you cast on 125 stitches. From these there will be 5 that will be knitted as the buttonband of the piece, but the number of the band stitches included in the given number that sou should cast on. Happy Knitting!

20.01.2019 - 22:39