DROPS / 191 / 22

Mina Pullover by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Flora.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-023
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 03, light grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 05, dark grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 13, denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 19, coral

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80) SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round).
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 114 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 11.4.
In this example, decrease by alternately knitting together every 10th and 11th stitch and every 11th and 12th stitch (approx.). When increasing, make 1 yarn over alternately after every 11th and 12th stitch (approx.). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. Increase 1 needle size if necessary when working pattern.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. A total of 8 stitches are increased on every increase round.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body): 
Start 8 stitches before the marker thread in the side of the body, make 1 yarn over, knit 16 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 16 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
You can work an elevation in the back of the neck for a better fit so that the neck is higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description for elevation further down in the text.

NECK:
Cast on 114-117-123-129-135-141 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and light grey. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you decrease 10-9-11-9-7-9 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 104-108-112-120-128-132 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Now you can work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working the yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start at the marker from the right side with light grey and knit 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 27-30-33-36-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches.
Continue back and forth like this by working 9-10-11-12-13-14 more stitches each time you turn until you have worked over the middle 72-80-88-96-104-112 stitches and the last row worked was from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and knit back to mid back.

YOKE:
= 104-108-112-120-128-132 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 in the round (= 26-27-28-30-32-33 repeats of 4 stitches). AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1 increase evenly spaced as described below – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Arrow-1: Increase 20-20-20-32-32-36 stitches evenly spaced = 124-128-132-152-160-168 stitches.
Arrow -2: Increase 8-8-8-16-14-12 stitches evenly spaced = 132-136-140-168-174-180 stitches.
There is now room for 33-34-35-28-29-30 repeats of 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches. Then increase as shown in the diagram.
Arrow -3: There are now 264-272-280-280-290-300 stitches on the needle and each repeat covers 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches. Increase AT THE SAME TIME 18-16-20-26-28-30 stitches evenly spaced on this round = 282-288-300-306-318-330 stitches.
Arrow -4: Increase 6-6-6-14-10-6 stitches evenly spaced = 288-294-306-320-328-336 stitches.
Continue working until A.1 has been completed. Then knit 1 round with light grey where you increase 0-0-4-6-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 288-294-310-326-334-340 stitches.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches):
The first marker thread is inserted after the first 45-46-48-52-55-58 stitches on the round (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker thread is inserted after the next 55-56-60-60-58-55 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker thread is inserted after the next 89-91-95-103-109-115 stitches (= front piece) and the 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 55-56-60-60-58-55 stitches (= sleeve). There are 44-45-47-51-54-57 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread (= ½ back piece).
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light grey. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 5-9-11-13-16-19 times on each side of the 4 marker threads = 328-366-398-430-462-492 stitches.
Continue working without increasing until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), knit 99-109-117-129-141-153 stitches (= front piece), place the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 49-54-58-64-70-76 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 218-238-258-282-310-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under each sleeve = 109-119-129-141-155-169 stitches between marker threads for front and back pieces. Start the round at one of the marker threads.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light grey. When the piece measures 3 cm from the separation, increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½ cm a total of 12 times in each side = 266-286-306-330-358-386 stitches.
When the piece measures 35 cm from the separation knit 1 round where you increase 55-59-63-66-74-79 stitches evenly spaced = 321-345-369-396-432-465 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 1, 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue the rib like this for 3 cm. Then cast off with knit, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 3 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 75-84-94-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve and start the round here. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2-2-3-3-3-3 cm from the separation, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 10th-7th-5th-5th-4th-4th round a total of 13-17-21-22-23-24 times = 49-50-52-54-58-61 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 41-40-38-37-35-34 cm from the separation (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 8-10-11-12-11-11 stitches evenly on the round = 57-60-63-66-69-72 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= off white
= light grey
= dark grey
= denim blue
= coral
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with light grey. On the next round, knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= increase round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

Jamie 29.08.2019 - 16:39:

I want to make the largest size (XXXL) for a very loose fit for a friend of mine. Looking at the measurements, do I multiple the 70 cm x2 to get 140 cm around the bust area? If so, I think I need to drop it back down a size or two. Is there a positive ease in this sweater. I can't seem to find that in the pattern. Thank you for your help, sorry for the silly sounding questions! I'm not very experienced with sweaters yet.

DROPS Design 29.08.2019 kl. 16:49:

Hi Jamie, Yes, the XXXL size will have a bust measurement of 140 cm. The yarn is quite stable, so the jumper will not stretch much after use. Happy knitting!

Karen Madsen 21.07.2019 - 17:22:

Kære drops Jeg vil gerne strikke en bluse, der er lidt længere bag på end foran, da jeg desværre er en anelse rundrygget. Har I en grundmodel, som jeg kan bruge? Det er ikke nok med en forhøjning i nakken, selv om det hjælper på det. Det ville være fint, om I havde en bluse, der også buer ganske svagt for neden på ryggen - måske lavet med vende pinde over samlet set 6 eller 8 pinde, hvor buen er bredest. Eller måske I har en bedre løsning?

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 09:51:

Hej Karen, Hvis du finder en bluse med slids i siden, så er det enkelt at strikke bagstykket lidt længere. God fornøjelse!

Michaela Krchová 29.01.2019 - 11:50:

Dobrý den, ráda bych upletla svetr DROPS 191-22 Mina, ale když jsem si chtěla objednat přízi Flora uni colour, tak v nabídce chybí obě šedé barvy tj. č. 03 světle šedá a č. 05 tmavě šedá. Budou tyto barvy v nabídce a pokud ano, tak kdy a pokud ne, prosím o radu jakou přízí chybějící příze nahradit. Předem děkuji za odpověď. Krchová

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 00:28:

Dobrý den, paní Krchová, žádnou přízi nahrazovat nemusíte - obě zmíněné barvy v barevnici zůstávají. Pro aktuální skladovou dostupnost sledujte prosím nabídky jednotlivých prodejců - viz záložka Prodejci. Příjemné pletení!

Annette Vibro Petersen 13.04.2018 - 11:29:

Kan man istedet for bærestykket tage ud og strikke raglan fra hvor ribkanten slutter?

Inger Corneliussen 05.04.2018 - 15:36:

Mitt barnebarn, snart 18 år, fikk velge en genser fra Dropsmodellene som jeg skulle strikke til henne og hun valgte denne. Jeg har ikke strikket raglanfelling før og ble litt usikker, men oppskriften var veldig grei og genseren ble flott.

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