DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Kyliena

Crocheted jacket with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS 186-33
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-101
Yarn group C
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-450 g color 10, fog

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 MM / J/10 – or the size needed to get 12 double crochets and 7 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height, or 1 repeat of A.2 measuring 8 cm / 3 1/8'' in width (A.X = approx. 5 cm / 2'' in height).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
The first double crochet at the beginning of the row/round is replaced by 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row/round. The first single crochet at the beginning of a row is replaced by 1 chain stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working the next 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), then work the next double crochet but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 stitches on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked in 2 parts which are sewn together mid back. Work back and forth, from mid back and out to the sides. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.

LEFT PIECE:
Work 105-116-127 chain stitches with hook size 6 mm / J/10 and Air. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5-4-3 chain stitches, * skip the next chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 87-96-105 double crochets. READ CROCHET INFO! Then work as follows – from the wrong side: A.3 (= 3 double crochets), A.2 (= 9 double crochets) over the next 81-90-99 double crochets (= 9-10-11 repeats), finish with A.1 (= 3 double crochets). On the next row (= from the right side) work in reverse, i.e. work A.1, A.2 and finish with A.3. When A.1 to A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat rows 1 - 4 upwards (= A.X). Continue until the piece measures approx. 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows – from the right side:

So that the jacket is firmer over the armhole, you need to work an extra row of double crochets just over the first stitches on the jacket (= collar). Work A.1 + 18 double crochets over the first 2 repeats of A.2 (see A.4 for how to work double crochets over A.2) = 21 double crochets. Cut the strand and start from the beginning of the row again – from the right side and from the first row in A.X.

Work A.1, work A.5 over the next 18 double crochets (= 2 repeats of 9 stitches), work 18-27-27 chain stitches and skip the next 2-3-3 repeats of A.2, work to end of row as before (i.e. 5-5-6 repeats of A.2 and A.3). On the next row (= row 2 in A.X) work 2-3-3 repeats of A.2 around the 18-27-27 new chain stitches. When A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 as before over these stitches. Continue until the piece measures approx. 61-66-71 cm / 24"-26"-28''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows: A.1, double crochets over the 9-10-11 repeats of A.2 (see A.4), finish with A.3 = 87-96-105 double crochets. Work a total of 2 rows of double crochets as shown in A.4, cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT PIECE:
Work 105-116-127 chain stitches with hook size 6 mm / J/10 and Air. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5-4-3 chain stitches, * skip the next chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 87-96-105 double crochets. Then work as follows - from the wrong side: A.3 (= 3 double crochets), A.2 over the next 81-90-99 double crochets (= 9-10-11 repeats), finish with A.1 (= 3 double crochets). When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time in height, repeat rows 1 to 4 upwards (= A.X). Continue until the piece measures approx. 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows – from the right side:

So that the jacket is firmer over the armhole, you need to work an extra row of double crochets just over the last stitches on the jacket (= collar - this will be at the top of the jacket when the parts are sewn together). Cut the strand. Skip A.1 and the first 7-8-9 repeats of A.2, work 18 double crochets over the last 2 repeats of A.2 and finish with A.3 (see A.4 for how to work double crochets over A.2) = 21 double crochets. Cut the strand and start from the beginning of the row again – from the right side and the first row in A.X.

Work A.1, work the first 5-5-6 repeats of A.2, work 18-27-27 chain stitches and skip the next 2-3-3 repeats of A.2, work A.5 over the next 18 double crochets, finish with A.3. On the next row (= row 2 in A.X) work 2-3-3 repeats of A.2 around the 18-27-27 new chain stitches. When A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 as before over these stitches. Continue until the piece measures approx. 61-66-71 cm / 24"-26"-28''; adjust to after a complete repeat of A.X. Then work as follows: A.1, A.4 over the 9-10-11 repeats of A.2, finish with A.3 = 87-96-105 double crochets. Work a total of 2 rows of double crochets as shown in A.4, cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the jacket together mid back.

SLEEVES:
Work the sleeve in the round as follows – start mid under the sleeve: 1 single crochet, *4 chain stitches, skip 2 cm / 3/4'', 1 single crochet, *, repeat from *-* around the whole armhole, finish with a slip stitch in the first single crochet = approx. 12-18-18 chain-spaces. Then work 45-64-64 double crochets evenly spaced around the chain-spaces (work 3 or 4 double crochets around each space). Then work as follows – from mid under sleeve:
A.1 (=double crochets) over the first 9-14-14 double crochets, A.2 over the next 27-36-36 double crochets, A.3 (=double crochets) over the last 9-14-14 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET INFO! Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve; the piece is now measured from here. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' decrease 1 double crochet on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 5-3½-3½ cm / 2"-1 1/4"-1 1/4'' a total of 9-14-14 times. After all the decreases there are 27-36-36 double crochets left on the round, now work double crochets over all stitches (see A.4). Continue until the piece measures 55-55-55 cm / 21½"-21½"-21½'', cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 double crochet
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = Work 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more double crochet in the same double crochet, at the last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook.
symbols = Work 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet around the middle chain stitch in the double crochet group, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more double crochet around the same chain stitch, at last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on the hook.
symbols = Work a double crochet group around the chain-space as follows: Work 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet around the same chain-space.
symbols = 1 single crochet around the chain-space.
symbols = Work a double crochet group between 2 double crochets as follows: Work 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet between 2 double crochets
symbols = this row has already been worked
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Christel wrote:

Je reformule ma question! Vous dites de commencer le rang marqué par une étoile par A3 (donc on est sur l’envers), donc il est impossible de commencer le rang 1 de AX par A1 puisqu’on est sur l’envers à nouveau. Il y a 6 rangs au total en hauteur, on commence sur l’envers donc après un nombre pair de rang on se retrouve forcément sur l’envers à nouveau??? Je ne comprends pas..

18.05.2023 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christel, dites-nous si les explications ci-dessous ont pu vous aider - en d'autres termes, les rangs avec les groupes de brides sont des rangs sur l'endroit. et le tout 1er rang des diagrammes (celui après l'étoile) est donc bien un rang sur l'envers, mais A.X commence ensuite (rang 1 de A.X) sur l'endroit. Bon crochet!

19.05.2023 - 08:02

country flag Christel wrote:

Côté gauche,, après 18-22cm vous dites de finir un diagramme AX et de continuer sur L’ENDROIT (pour que les emmanchures soient plus fermes..) mais on est OBLIGATOIREMENT sur l’envers quand on finit un AX complet?? Et pourquoi l’étoile sur le premier rang envers, alors que dans le texte descriptif vous dites de faire ce rang?

18.05.2023 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christel, le tout premier rang avec l'étoile est le premier rang de brides crocheté au début et se fait sur l'endroit, le 1er rang des diagramme se fait ainsi sur l'envers et A.X commence sur l'endroit pour se terminer sur l'envers. Le 1er rang suivant après A.X sera donc bien un rang sur l'endroit. Bon crochet!

19.05.2023 - 08:00

country flag Lisa wrote:

Buongiorno, segnalo che la scritta: "Kyliena by DROPS Design. Cardigan lavorato ai ferri con motivo traforato" non è corretta in quanto si tratta di un lavoro ad uncinetto.

13.12.2022 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lisa, grazie per la segnalazione: abbiamo corretto il testo. Buon lavoro!

14.12.2022 - 21:49

country flag Heike wrote:

Laut Beschreibung linker Teil 105 Luftmaschen, dann eine Reihe 87 Stb, dann zweite Reihe 81 Stb. Danach (3.Reihe) gegengleich häkeln d.h. A1,A2 enden mit A3 soll eine Hinreihe sein. Somit ist die Reihe mit Sternchen aber eine Rückreihe? Wenn 1 eine Hinreihe sein soll, dann ist auch die Sternchenreihe eine Hinreihe?

13.09.2022 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, die erste Reihe (= mit dem Sternchen) ist eine Hinreihe (87 Stb), dann häkeln Sie die 1. Reihe von den Diagrammen von der Rückseite (A.3, dann A.2 wiederholen und mit A.1 enden); die 2. Reihe wird dann eine Hinreihe sein (mit A.1 beginnen und mit A.3 enden), usw so daß die 1. Reihe in A.X (=1) ist eine Hinreihe und die letzte Reihe in A.x (= 4) ist eine Rückreihe. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.09.2022 - 09:04

country flag Heike wrote:

Wenn A.1 bis A.3 1x in der Höhe gehäkelt ist, ist die letzte Reihe eine Hinreihe und es geht mit einer Rückreihe in A.X weiter, oder? Somit ist die Reihe 1 in A.X eine Rückreihe, also damit das Muster passt links im Diagramm starten und nicht bei der 1, oder? Die Beschreibung mit Hin und Rückreihe verwirrt. Nach den 21 Stb wieder am Anfang der Reihe anfangen, aber dann geht der Luftmaschenbogen über das letzte Stb und dieses hat keinen Halt nach oben???

12.09.2022 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, die 1. Reihe in A.1-A.3 ist eine Rückreihe (die nach der mit dem Sternchen), so wird die lezte Reihe eine Hinreihe sein, dann wiederholen Sie nur A.X von Reihe 1 bis 4. Nach der Hinreihe mit den 21 Stäbchen wird der Faden abgeschnitten und dann wieder Diagramme wie zuvor häkeln, und mit einer Hinreihe anfangen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

13.09.2022 - 09:31

country flag Lydia wrote:

Few questions on left piece: "Cut the strand and start from the beginning of the row again - from the right side and from the first row in A.X": What exactly does this mean? Does it mean right above the 21 dc I just did previously? "Work A.1, work A.5 over the next 18 dc...": Same question as above. Also, does A.5 include dc, or is that just mentioning the one I should have done by then? Thank you in advance!

27.02.2021 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lydia, to make the top of armhole somewhat firmer, you will now work one extra row over the first 21 stitches towards armhole; cut the yarn after 18-20-22 cm (make sure to have finished a complet repeat of A.x in height), then work 21 sts from RS (A.4 shows how to crochet the dc over the lace pattern); cut the yarn. Now start from RS again and work the armhole on next row. Remember the row with a star shouldn't be worked, it only shows how to crochet the next row in the stitches from previous row (see diagram key to the star). Happy crocheting!

01.03.2021 - 08:30

country flag Minna wrote:

I repeat Claire’s question above, which I don’t think you actually respond to. When am I supposed to crochet the row between A3-A2-A1 and A.X. (rows 1-4) ? There is no mention in the instructions as far as I can tell. It would have been very helpful to see a magnified photo of the crocheted jacket on a flat surface. Thanks in advance + Kind regards

01.11.2020 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Minna, when reading diagram, you are starting with the row after the one with a star (= the one with a star has already been worked), then work now row 1 to 4 in A.x for A.1/A.2 and A.3 and repeat these 4 rows in height. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

02.11.2020 - 08:21

country flag Laura Connolly wrote:

What does work 'around' a chain space mean? I know what working into a chain space is, but i'm not sure where I am supposed to go with 'around' and I can't find that term used anywhere online

08.06.2020 - 11:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Connolly, this video shows how to crochet IN or AROUND a stitch and should help you to vizualize (with another diagram/pattern) how to crochet the stitches. Happy crocheting!

08.06.2020 - 12:27

country flag Gonny wrote:

Ik ben met de mouw bezig. Ik heb 2 vragen. Moet ik het patroon haken zoals A.X, dus om en om vasten en stokjes? Nu komt de 2e vraag. Vanuit de oksel kom ik op 28 stokjes en daarna in opengewerkt patroon. Na het minderen zou ik moeten eindigden met 36 stokjes, terwijl ik gestart ben met 28 stokjes. Niet logisch, tenzij ik het patroon verkeerd interpreteer. Kunt u het mij uitleggen. Dank! Groet Gonny

29.02.2020 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gonny,

Als je begint met de mouw, begin je bij de oksel en haak je verdeeld over het armsgat 45-64-64 stokjes (45 stokjes voor maat S/M, 64 voor maat L/XL enz.). Deze stokjes verdeel je dus gelijkmatig over de lussen van het armsgat. Daarna pak je inderdaad patroon A.1, A.2 en A.3 op (waarbij de toer met de ster de toer van stokjes is die je zojuist in het armsgat hebt gehaakt.)

04.03.2020 - 11:22

country flag Anne wrote:

Het antwoord begrijp ik niet. Na een hele herhaling van A.x ga je toch verder met de eerste toer A.1? En de eerste toer A.1 begint met 3 vasten. Waar komen die 3 stokjes dan vandaan?

11.04.2019 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne,

A.x begint met 3 vasten, maar A.1 begint met 3 stokjes. Nadat je 18-20-22 cm hebt gehaakt, haak je A.1 + 18 stokjes over de eerste 2 herhalingen van A.2. (= een extra toer van stokjes over alleen de eerste steken op het vest om te zorgen dat het vest wat steviger is bij het armsgat).

11.04.2019 - 15:00