DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Adele

Knitted jumper with edge in wave pattern and vent in the sides. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Belle.

DROPS 187-14
DROPS design: Pattern vs-044
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-450-500 g colour 04, dandelion
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 03, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers bottom up round neck sewn in sleeves stocking stitch wave pattern

UK
Ireland

DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. NOTE! First row in diagrams is worked from wrong side!

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 122 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 20) = 6.1. In this example knit approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 together, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are done from right side.
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side by making a yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
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JUMPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Work first an edge in wave pattern with light beige. Then switch to dandelion and work 2 ridges before continuing in stocking stitch. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 121-121-137-137-153-169 stitches with light beige on circular needle size 4 mm. Work first row from wrong side as follows: A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2 – choose diagram for your size (= 8 repetition of 14-14-16-16-18-20 stitches), A.3 (= 4 stitches). On the last 2 rows in A.1-A.3 cast on 1 new stitch at the end of row (marks vent) – NOTE: decrease 1 stitch on next to last row in A.1 = 122-122-138-138-154-170 stitches. When A.1 to A.3 have been worked, switch to dandelion. Knit 1 row while decreasing 20-12-18-8-12-16 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 102-110-120-130-142-154 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 0-1-2-3-4-5 cm decrease 1 stitch in each side – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this approx. every 4 cm 4 times in total = 94-102-112-122-134-146 stitches. When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm, cast off stitches in each side for armholes as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times, 2 stitches 1-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 1-1-3-2-2-2 times = 82-84-86-88-90-92 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm, cast off the middle 40-40-42-42-44-44 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck =20-21-21-22-22-23 stitches for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm (46-48-50-52-54-56 cm in total from shoulder and down). Cast off. Make sure that the cast-off is not too tight! Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 30-32-33-35-36-38 cm from marker thread. Now slip the middle 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 20-21-21-22-22-23 stitches for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm (46-48-50-52-54-56 cm in total from shoulder and down). Adjust towards back piece. Cast off. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up.
Cast on 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with light beige. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.4 - NOTE: first row in diagram is from wrong side and is purled from wrong side, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
On row after working together with cast-on edge (= row with arrow in diagram) switch to dandelion. Insert a marker thread here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Now work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 8-5-5-4-4-3 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 6th row 11-12-7-6-0-0 times and every 4th row 0-0-7-9-17-18 times = 66-70-76-80-86-90 stitches. When sleeve measures 33-33-32-32-31-31 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 4 stitch 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches until sleeve measures 40-41-41-42-42-43 cm, cast off 3 stitches 1 time and cast off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 44-45-45-46-46-47 cm including edge at the bottom of sleeve. Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulders with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off edge. Sew sleeves in body. Sew seam under sleeves and continue down along the side until stitch cast on for vent (= 8 cm for vent). Sew inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Begin from right side and knit up 100-100-106-106-112-112 stitches (including stitches from stitch holder at the front) with dandelion on circular needle size 4 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Then work as follows: Knit 1 round. Then work A.4 in the round until 7th round in diagram has been worked. Knit 1 round. Cast off by knitting but for every 4th stitch make 1 yarn over. Cast off yarn over as stitch. NOTE! Avoid a tight cast-off edge, the folding edge will tip outwards when assembled if too tight. Fold at eyelet row in A.4 so that hem is on the inside of garment. Sew cast-off edge in the top ridge. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 08.05.2018
Updated symbol definition

Updated online: 01.08.2018
Correction - Front piece: Then cast off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 20-21-21-22-22-23 stitches for shoulder.(previously cast off 2 stitches 3 times)

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over to make a hole. NOTE: When working diagram A.4 for the neck edge, on next row knit yarn over to make a hole
	= knit 2 together
	= knit 4 stitches together as follows: Knit 4 stitches, slip them on to left needle, pass next to last stitch over last stitch, repeat until all 3 stitches have been passed over (= 3 stitches decreased). Pass the last stitch worked back on right needle.
	= knit 4 stitches twisted together as follows: Knit 4 stitches, slip the next to last stitch worked over the last stitch, repeat until all 3 stitches have been passed (= 3 stitches decreased.
	= knit 5 stitches together as follows: Knit 5 stitches, slip them on to left needle, pass next to last stitch over last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased). Pass the last stitch worked back on right needle.
	= knit 5 stitches twisted together as follows: Knit 5 stitches, slip the next to last stitch worked over the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed (= 4 stitches decreased)
	= this row/round is worked as follows: Fold eyelet row (= 4th round/row in diagram) up on wrong side of piece. Slip first stitch in cast-on edge at the edge on to left needle, knit the first 2 stitches (i.e. first stitch on needle + first stitch from cast-on edge) together. Slip the next stitch on cast-on edge at the edge on to left needle, work the first 2 stitches together (i.e. next stitch on needle + next stitch from cast-on edge). Continue like this by working a stitch from cast-on edge together with next stitch on left needle until all stitches have been worked together with cast-on edge.of
	= on this row switch to dandelion

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Adele

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Comments / Questions (17)

Hannah Engebjerg wrote:

Er det rigtigt forstået at der ikke skal strikkes hulrække i mønster A1 og A3 i starten af mønstret, men hulrække i A2 som jo ligger imellem A1 og A3?

01.03.2018 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hannah, ja det stemmer, her strikker du kun retstrik (riller). God fornøjelse!

06.03.2018 - 16:03

Brigitte Fitzel wrote:

Sehr schönes Modell leider kann ich die Anleitung nicht finden. Es wird lediglich ein Foto zur Verfügung gestellt. Für eine Info lieben Dank im voraus Gruß Brigitte Fitzel

09.02.2018 - 14:08

Liebe Frau Fitzel, die Anleitung kommt noch! Kommen Sie mal wieder vorbei.

09.02.2018 - 17:44

Annica Olsson wrote:

Varför kan man inte se mönstret till denna fina jumper?

09.02.2018 - 11:13

Sååå gullig midsommarnattsdröm ☺

09.02.2018 - 11:12

Cissi wrote:

Lite 50-tal. Jag gillar!!!

16.01.2018 - 11:13

Nadine wrote:

Trop mignon, les couleurs, l'effet dentelle, j'ai hâte de le réaliser !

12.12.2017 - 11:38

Lea Cadie wrote:

Adorable et simple

11.12.2017 - 21:15

Adele

Knitted jumper with edge in wave pattern and vent in the sides. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Belle.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to choose yarn

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

You might also like...

From the #dropsfan gallery

Adele

Adele in Lavender blue

187-14 Adele

Adele Sweater

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 187-14

Comments / Questions (17)

Adele

Knitted jumper with edge in wave pattern and vent in the sides. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Belle.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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