DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Miss Flora Cardi

Knitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 186-16
DROPS design: Pattern fl-027
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 19, coral

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges in garter stitch.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 8 pieces for all sizes
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

BAND:
Work right band as follows (i.e. the 8 first stitches on needle when working from right side): 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2.
Work left band as follows (i.e. the 8 last stitches on needle when working from right side): Purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
Continue bands with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
If you do not want lace pattern up along mid back, work in stocking stitch over the 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches in A.2 mid back.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 67 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 6.7.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. alternately 6th and 7th stitch, on next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together. Do not increase/decrease over the band stitches.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row/round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches decreased on every decrease row). All decreases are done from the right side!
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn):
1 buttonhole = purl fourth and fifth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 2, 9, 16, 22, 29, 36, 42 and 48 cm
M: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 50 cm
L: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 52 cm
XL: 2, 9, 16, 24, 31, 38, 46 and 54 cm
XXL: 2, 10, 18, 25, 33, 41, 48 and 56 cm
XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
NOTE! The last of these 8 buttonholes is decreased on first row from right side after picking up stitches for neck edge as explained in pattern.
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JACKET:
Body is worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front, bottom up. Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeve edges together and finish yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front.

BODY:
Cast somewhat loosely on 292-292-292-384-384-384 stitches (including 8 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Flora. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side and purl 1 row from wrong side with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Work next row as follows from right side: 8 stitches BAND - see explanation above, work A.1 until 8 stitches remain on row (= 12-12-12-16-16-16 repetitions of 23 stitches), and finish with 8 stitches BAND. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When A.1 has been worked, there are 208-220-244-272-288-320 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread 56-59-65-72-76-84 stitches in from each side (= 96-102-114-128-136-152 stitches between marker threads on back piece).
Work next row as follows from right side: Work 8 stitches band as before, A.2 (= 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches), 48-51-57-80-85-95 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches mid back – read KNITTING TIP), 48-51-57-80-85-95 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches) and finish with 8 stitches band as before. Continue pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm on the shortest, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2-2-4-4-4-4 cm a total of 3-3-2-2-2-2 times in each side = 196-208-236-264-280-312 stitches.
When piece measures 22-20-20-22-20-20 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2 cm 5-6-6-5-6-6 times in total in each side = 216-232-260-284-304-336 stitches.
Work until piece measures 32 cm on the shortest in all sizes.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work 53-57-63-69-73-80 stitches as before (= front piece), cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches for armhole, work 90-98-110-122-130-144 stitches as before (= back piece), cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches for armhole and work the remaining 53-57-63-69-73-80 stitches as before (= front piece). Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Cast on 67-75-83-89-93-99 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Flora. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm, knit 1 round while increasing 10 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 77-85-93-99-103-109 stitches. Work next round as follows: Knit 37-41-45-48-50-53 (knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes), A.3 (= 3 stitches), knit 37-41-45-48-50-53.
Work next round as follows: Cast off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches, knit 67-75-81-87-89-93 stitches and cast off the remaining 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve edge the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same needle as body where armholes were cast off (without working the stitches first) = 330-362-398-434-454-490 stitches on needle. Remove the marker threads in piece. Insert 1 marker thread in every transition between body and sleeve edges (= 4 new marker threads).
Begin from right side, continue back and forth in stocking stitch and A.2 as before with 8 stitches band in each side as before. Continue in addition A.3 over the middle 3 stitches on each sleeve.
When 2 rows have been worked back and forth over all stitches, begin decrease for RAGLAN on next row from the right side - see explanation above.
Decrease for raglan every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 6-5-4-4-6-7 times in total and then every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 17-22-27-30-30-31 times in total.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm, slip the outermost 21-21-23-26-28-33 stitches in each side towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck, i.e. this is done at the beginning of the next 2 rows but work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn.
Continue back and forth as before and cast off for neck at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time and 2 stitches 1 time. Then cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of every row in each side until decreases for raglan are finished. After all decreases for raglan and cast offs for neck, approx. 92-92-92-98-98-108 stitches remain on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 146-146-150-162-166-186 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on a circular needle size 2.5 mm. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Then 1 knit row from right side while decreasing evenly to 136-136-140-150-154-160 stitches, i.e. decrease approx. 10-10-10-12-12-26 stitches – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and remember to decrease for last buttonhole on this row.
Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Cast off knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs, on next row purl one yarn over and drop the other yarn over off the needle
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the two slipped stitches over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = knit 3 together
symbols = Knot: Work these 4 stitches as follows without dropping them off left needle: Purl 4 together, knit 4 together, purl 4 together, knit 4 together, then drop stitches off left needle
symbols = Knot: Work these 3 stitches as follows without dropping them off left needle: Purl 3 together, knit 3 together, purl 3 together, then drop stitches off left needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Helle Eriksen wrote:

I mønsterdiagram A1 står følgende: = lav 2 omslag mellem 2 masker, på næste pind strikkes det ene omslag vrang, det andet slippes ned Hvad betyder `slippes ned` - skal man lade masken løbe.

23.05.2023 - 07:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, ja det stemmer, du slipper masken af pinden, den vil dog ikke løbe men du vil få et hul :)

23.05.2023 - 08:46

country flag Patsy3cats wrote:

In the sleeve instructions it mentions A3. I can’t find a chart or diagram explanation as to what A3 is. Can you help please?

20.04.2018 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patsy3cats , A.3 is a small diagram you will find on the left side of diagram A.1 to size L + XXXL and is worked over 3 sts and 6 rows. Happy knitting!

23.04.2018 - 10:57

country flag Nathalie Vergobbi wrote:

Bonjour, Pour 250 grammes de laine ,est-ce qu'il faut 5 pelotes de laine(taille xl)?.

17.03.2018 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vergobbi, tout à fait, DROPS Flora fait 50 g la pelote (cf nuancier), il vous faudra donc 5 pelotes en taille XL. Bon tricot!

19.03.2018 - 09:55

country flag Bjoerg Haarseth wrote:

Dette er den eneste muligheten jeg har til å uttrykke min skuffelse over at genseren med blå og hvite felt, ca 20-25 cm, ikke ble stemt inn. Det fatter jeg ikke for genseren var nydelig. Er det noen mulighet for at jeg kan få eller få kjøpt mønsteret likevel??? Ønsker så veldig å strikke denne.

25.01.2018 - 11:50

country flag Betty wrote:

If using different models for the photoshoots, then models of all ages should be used not only very young or granny models. Some clothing simply does no suit everyone due to bodytype and /or age

20.01.2018 - 11:43

country flag Ormi wrote:

Me hat absolut recht. Endlich mal ne ältere Frau in einer großen Größe. Da kann man eher entscheiden, ob das Modell zu einem passt. Man sieht auch direkt, dass die Ärmelchen länger sein müssen!

16.01.2018 - 21:55

country flag Jane Höglund wrote:

En underbar sommarkofta. Längtar efter att få sticka den då mönstret kommer ut.

13.01.2018 - 10:29

Me wrote:

How nice to see a real woman for a change! Yes, some patterns are only suited to the very young - but many are not.

09.01.2018 - 12:16

country flag Linda Brabant wrote:

Jolie et pratique pour les soirée au bord de l'eau

09.01.2018 - 03:06