DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 71.60CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Nougat Cardigan

Knitted jacket with round yoke and multi-colored Nordic pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS 191-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-114
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-250-300-350-350 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 18, light gray green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 15, purple haze

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for rib - or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7 items in all sizes.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Air 04, 03, 16, 10.
B) DROPS Air 03, 01, 15, 14.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 71.60CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 92 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 27) = 3.037.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch; on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches, 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease as follows before the marker thread (start 3 stitches before the marker thread): Knit 2 together, knit 1.
Decrease as follows after the marker thread: Knit 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid that the jacket loses its elasticity when working color pattern it is important that the strands on the wrong side of piece are not too tight. If the pattern is to tight try going up a needle size.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn): Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left at the end of the row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm / ½-3/4''. Then work the other 6 buttonholes with approx.9-9-9-10-10-10 cm / 3½''-3½''-3½''-4''-4''-4'' between each one.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. You can work an elevation in the back of the neck for a better fit; the yoke will be a little higher in the back of the neck. You can also leave out the elevation if you wish; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description of elevation a bit further down in the text. Work buttonholes on the right band. After the yoke, the body is worked back and forth on circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and wheat.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to off white and work rib as follows – from the right side:
5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, (knit 2 / purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this until the rib measures 3-3-4-4-5-5 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-2''-2'' – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see description above. Change to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Now you can work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working the yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker mid back (= 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches in from each side)
Start from the right side with off white and knit until you have worked 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each end.

YOKE:
Now work pattern - read KNITTING TIP, as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work the last stitch in A.1, A.1 (= 12 stitches) until there are 5 stitches left, 5 band stitches in garter stitch, AT THE SAME TIME increase stitches evenly on the rows marked with arrows in the diagram – read INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
Note: When working pattern with 2 colors on the yoke, use the background color in the pattern over the 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.

On the row marked with arrow-1 increase 27-35-31-39-35-43 stitches evenly on row = 119-131-131-143-143-155 stitches.
On the row marked with arrow-2 increase 36-36-48-48-48-60 stitches evenly on row = 155-167-179-191-191-215 stitches.
On the row marked with arrow-3 increase 36-36-48-48-48-60 stitches evenly on row = 191-203-227-239-239-275 stitches.
On the row marked with arrow-4 increase 34-34-34-34-46-46 stitches evenly on row = 225-237-261-273-285-321 stitches. Continue the pattern like this: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work the last stitch in A.1, A.1 (= 12 stitches) until there are 5 stitches left (the last time you work A.1 on the row, you just work the first 10 stitches in the diagram), 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
On the row marked with arrow-5 increase 2-14-14-18-30-18 stitches evenly on row = 227-251-275-291-315-339 stitches.
Change to wheat. Continue with wheat, stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm / 9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8'' from the cast-on edge and down mid front – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side (if the knitting gauge is correct in height, this measurement is attained in Size S when A.1 has been completed).
The next row is worked as follows:
Work the first 36-39-43-47-51-56 stitches (= left front piece), place the next 47-52-56-57-60-63 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 61-69-77-83-93-101 stitches (= back piece), place the next 47-52-56-57-60-63 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10- new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the next 36-39-43-47-51-56 stitches (= right front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 149-163-179-197-215-233 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on under the sleeves (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Continue back and forth with wheat, stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', decrease 2 stitches in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm / 1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'' a total of 3 times = 137-151-167-185-203-221 stitches. When the piece measures 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½'', increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 3 cm / 1'' a total of 5 times = 157-171-187-205-223-241 stitches. When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm / 11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾'', increase 11-13-13-15-17-19 stitches evenly on row = 168-184-200-220-240-260 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 2 /purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches).
The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the cast on edge down mid front.

SLEEVE:
= 47-52-56-57-60-63 stitches. Place the 47-52-56-57-60-63 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on under the sleeve with wheat = 55-60-64-67-70-73 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 new stitches on each side of the marker thread).
Start the round here and work stockinette stitch in the round with wheat. When the piece measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1"-1" from the separation, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th-3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd round 10-12-13-13-14-14 times = 35-36-38-41-42-45 stitches. When the piece measures 24-24-23-23-23-23 cm / 9½"-9½"-9"-9"-9"-9'', increase 1-4-2-3-2-3 stitches evenly on round = 36-40-40-44-44-48 stitches. Work A.2 (= 4 stitches) in the round. When the whole of A.2 has been completed in height, change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and off white. Work rib (knit 2 /purl 2) for 5 cm / 2''. Change to wheat, work 1 round rib as before and loosely bind off with wheat, knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches).
The sleeve measures 35-35-34-34-34-34-34 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-13½"-13½"-13½"-13½'' from the separation.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.01.2019
Correction - ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each end.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = wheat
symbols = purple haze
symbols = light grey green
symbols = increase row - see description in text
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Jannie wrote:

Str M. 8 nye m slået op og derefter strikket videre på bagstykket. 8 nye masker slået op og derefter strikket videre på højre forstykke. Ialt 163 m. Så ærmerne, Hvordan strikker jeg i de NYE masker (som lige blev strikket i forlængelse af hhv bag- og forstykkerne ? Jeres video til spørgsmålet er virker ikke.

24.07.2023 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jennie Ta en titt på denne videoen: Hvordan strikkes masker op under ærmet mvh DROPS Design

27.07.2023 - 14:30

country flag Sabine wrote:

Es ist sehr ärgerlich, die weiße Wolle reicht nicht für den 2. Ärmel - da hätte man 2x50 g bestellen müssen - wenn ich jetzt nachbestelle , wird durch die Versandkosten das eine Knäul echt teuer -

04.02.2023 - 12:16

country flag Louise wrote:

Comment fait-on le fil serré tel qu’indiqué dans la section rehausse encolure dos ? Merci de me répondre et bonne journée.

06.09.2022 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louise, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter les rangs raccourcis pour une réhausse - dans cette vidéo, on va glisser la 1ère maille - vous pouvez également suivre la technique des mailles enveloppées si vous préférez (cf vidéos. Bon tricot!

07.09.2022 - 08:09

country flag Else-Marie Edelfeldt wrote:

Rättelse 1... från 2019....Var skall det in i mönstret. Hittar inte var det ska passa in. Mvh Els-Marie

21.01.2022 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Else-Marie. Det är sist i stycket "FÖRHÖJNING BAK I NACKEN". Rättelsen är alltså inskriven i mönstret, så det är bara att följa mönstret. Mvh DROPS Design

21.01.2022 - 10:28

country flag Marianne Gaarder wrote:

Hej Venligst se bort fra mit forrige spørgsmål. Det fandt jeg ud af. Til gengæld forstår jeg ikke udtagningstips nr 1, hvor der står, at de masker man har slået op skal strikkes drejet ret på næste omgang, for dette er jo på en vrangpind? Vh Marianne

31.12.2021 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marianne. Her skal kastet strikkes vridd, ikke rett (vridd vrang). Vi skal få ordnet dette, takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS Design

04.01.2022 - 15:33

country flag Marianne Gaarder wrote:

Er opskriften korrekt i forhold til når første knaphul strikkes? Der står det skal være i højre side, når trøjen er på og at det skal strikkes på retpinden, når der er 3 masker tilbage på pinden. Men som jeg ser det skal knaphullet strikkes i starten af pinden for at være i den rigtige side?

30.12.2021 - 21:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marianne. Så bra du fant ut av det selv. Svar på ditt 2. spørsmål se lengre opp. mvh DROPS Design

04.01.2022 - 15:31

country flag Ann-Mari Kindsbækken wrote:

Gjelder Nougat Cardigan. Etter 2.øking stemmer ikke mønsterbord 3 med mønsterbord 2. Iflg mønster skal 1 maske farge hvete i mønsterbord 3 være rett over 1 maske lilla tåke i mønsterbord 2 (nederste spiss i bord 2). For å få det til å stemme må jeg strikke 4 masker lys grågrønn (istedenfor 3 som mønsteret sier) og da vil vel ikke resten av mønsterborden bli symmetrisk. Hvordan løser jeg dette? Mvh Ann-Mari K

08.08.2021 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann-Mari. Pga økningene vil det ikke bli helt symmetrisk slik du ser det på diagrammet, men slik må det være. Om du ser på bildet er det "usymmetrisk", men det vises nesten ikke og det faller seg naturlig når plagget blir større ved økningene. mvh DROPS design

18.08.2021 - 07:50

country flag Helena Katajisto wrote:

Hei. Olen kiinnostunut mallista ja langoista malliin 191-3 niin saako mukaan printattuja ohjeita vai onko ohjeet ainoastaan videolla?

06.01.2021 - 08:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, voit tulostaa kaikkia ohjeitamme ilmaiseksi sivuiltamme.

12.03.2021 - 14:17

country flag Micheline Jans wrote:

Ik heb een vraag het design laat enkel de goede kant zien, wil zit zegen dat de aververchtse kant dezelfde steken beteken in dezelfde kleuren?

31.12.2020 - 20:51

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hallo, gerne würde ich den Schnitt der Jacke übernehmen und mit der Wolle Air und 1Faden Brushed alpaca silk stricken. Welche Nadelstärke muss ich verwenden und kann ich die Maße so übernehmen bzw. einfach eine Größe kleiner nehmen wegen des doppelten Fadens? Ich freue mich auf Ihren Tipp, bin schon ganz gespannt

08.11.2020 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, wenn Sie 1 Faden Air + 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk stricken möchten, dann bekommen Sie wie ein Faden der Garngruppe E - hier sehen Sie ein Beispiel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.11.2020 - 11:37