DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 4.25 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.50CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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White Shore

Crochet jacket with lace pattern, worked in a square from mid back outwards. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Belle.

DROPS 187-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-046
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color 01, white

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM/US 7 – or the size needed to get 16 double crochets and 8 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
1 repeat of A.1 measures 7 cm / 2¾'' in height measured from the chain stitch ring and up to the middle of the 3 chain-spaces (= middle of diagram).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 4.25 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.50CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch
at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches to the first chain-space on the round.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work 1 single crochet around the next chain-space, but wait with the last pull through, work the next single crochet around the next chain-space (do not work the 6 chain stitches between the single crochets ), on the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook.

CROCHET TIP (for sleeves):
After the last single crochet on the round, continue to the next round with 1 single crochet around the next chain-space (= the first chain-space on the next round). NOTE: Mark the beginning of the round with a marker thread between the last chain stitch on the round and the first single crochet on the next round; allow the marker thread to follow your work upwards. NOTE: Make sure the marker thread stays in the same place.
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JACKET:
The piece is first crocheted in the round from mid back and outwards in a square, then continue back and forth on the front pieces in each side. The sleeves are crocheted in the round from the armholes down.

SQUARE:
Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 and Belle and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work pattern in the round from the round marked with an arrow in diagram A.1 a total of 4 repeats on the round – read CROCHET INFORMATION. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 14 x 14 cm / 5½" x 5½''.

Continue working in the round from the round with an arrow in each diagram as follows: * A.2a, A.3, A.4a *, work from *-* a total of 4 times in the round on each round. When A.2a and A.4a have been completed in height, work A.2b over A.2a and A.4b over A.4a.

Repeat all rounds in A.2b, A.3 and A.4b in height, but for each time you finish A.3 once in height and A.2b and A.4b twice in height, work 2 more repeats of A.3 in width along each side of the square. When the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' x 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' – adjust so that the last round worked is either round 2 or 4 in A.2b and A.4b, work the armholes as follows:
Work pattern as before along the first side of the square (= towards the neck), work (3 double crochets, 2 chain stitches, 3 double crochets) around the chain-space in the corner, work 29-30-32-34-35-37 loose chain stitches, skip half the stitches/ chain-spaces along the next side of the square (= armhole) and work 1 single crochet around the next chain-space (= middle chain-space on the side), continue the pattern as before along the rest of this side and along the whole of the next side (= down along the body), work pattern as before as far as the middle chain-space along the next side, work 1 single crochet around the next chain-space (= the middle chain-space on the side), work 29-30-32-34-35-37 loose chain stitches, skip the remaining stitches/ chain-spaces along the side and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the start of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the chain-space in the corner. Continue with pattern in the round as before, but over the new chain stitches worked for the armholes, work double crochets and single crochets around these chain stitches instead of in them. When the piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 x 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm / 28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30 3/4''-31½''-32¼'' x 28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30 3/4''-31½''-32¼'', the square is finished – adjust to after a complete repeat of A.2b, A.3b and A.4b in height. Cut the strand. Then finish working the front pieces separately back and forth.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side in the corner with a black star – see sketch, and work the same pattern back and forth as follows:
Start on the row marked with a black square and work A.5 (= 1 single crochet around the chain-space in the corner and 1 single crochet in the 2nd double crochet), work A.3 as before along the whole side, finish with A.6 (= 1 single crochet around the chain-space in the next corner). Turn and continue back and forth like this until the front piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' from the center of the square – adjust so that you finish after the last row in A.3. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Left front piece is worked in the same way as the right front piece, but start from the right side by the corner marked with a black spot – see sketch.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked in the round from the crochet square and down. Fasten the strand mid under the sleeve by working 1 single crochet.
ROUND 1: Work * 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the chain-space /row of chain stitches worked for the armhole *, work from *-* a total of 19-20-21-22-23-24 times around the armhole (= 19-20-21-22-23-24 chain-spaces). Read CROCHET TIP (for sleeves). Continue by working 6 chain stitches and 1 single crochet around each chain-space. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', decrease 1 chain-space before the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this alternately on every other side of the marker thread, approx. every 8-8-7-6-6-6 cm / 3"-3"-2 3/4"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 1/4'' a total of 4-4-5-6-6-6 times = 15-16-16-16-17-18 chain-spaces. When the piece measures 39 cm / 15 1/4'' in all sizes, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet on round mid under sleeve.
Now work an edge around the bottom of the sleeve as follows: Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, (3 double crochets, 2 chain stitches, 3 double crochets) around each of the chain-spaces, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

CROCHET EDGE:
Now work a finishing edge around the whole jacket as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the outermost stitch in the top corner on the right front piece.
ROUND 1: Work * 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next chain-space /in the middle one of the 3 double crochets in the double crochet group between chain-spaces in the pattern *, work from *-* to end of round, but work an extra chain-space around the chain-space in each corner and when working along the sides of the front pieces, skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4''. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch on the round.

Diagram

symbols = 5 chain stitches, form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at start of round. Black spot is start of round
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around the chain-space /chain stitch ring
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch. NOTE! The last single crochet in A.1, A.4a/A.4b are to be worked in the mid stitch of the 3 double crochets on the previous round
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain-space
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = Begin on this round – see description in text.
symbols = when working back and forth on the front pieces, start on this row - see description in text. Then repeat all the rounds in the diagram in height.
symbols = work right front piece by starting from this side from the right side
symbols = work left front piece by starting from this side from the right side
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Regina Jongenelen wrote:

Ja dat heb ik gedaan maar weet niet hoe ik verder moet in de rondte over de armgat

23.02.2023 - 08:41

country flag Regina Jongenelen wrote:

Hoi Heb een vraag zijn er nog filmpjes om verder te kunnen ik weet niet hoe ik de arm gat moet maken

20.02.2023 - 16:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Regina,

Helaas is er niet specifiek een filmpje voor het armsgat van dit patroon. Kun je aangeven waar je precies tegenaan loopt? Dan kunnen we je misschien verder helpen. Heb je de maattekening onderaan het patroon bekeken? Daar kun je zien waar de mouw aan het pand komt. Wellicht helpt dat om te begrijpen wat de bedoeling is...

22.02.2023 - 13:14

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hi, thank you I have been loving the pattern so far and I have completed the square for the back, A3 once and A2a/ A2b & A4a /A4b all once but am now stuck where it says once you have completed A3 once in height and A2b& A4b twice work 2 more repeats of A.3 in width along each side of the square. ( i dont understand what i am meant to do here) Do i only work A3 back and forth or do i continue in the pattern in the round using A.3, A2a & A.2b? Please help, thank you.

06.10.2022 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ingrid, you just need to work A.3 on its own, back and forth. Happy crochetting!

07.10.2022 - 00:18

country flag Heike Gloria wrote:

Ich habe die Diagramme A2a, A3, A4a, dann A2b, weiter in A3 und A4b bis Ende des Diagramms gehäkelt. Es sind somit 12 Quadrate entstanden. Verstehe nicht wie es weitergeht. Mit A2b ist ok, aber wie weiter? Es passt nicht mit dem Diagramm zusammen. Nach A2b mit A3 weiter, aber in welcher Zeile?

10.08.2022 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, das Muster häkeln Sie weiter einfach wie zuvor, damit die Quadrate wie zuvor forsetzen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.08.2022 - 10:27

country flag Heike Gloria wrote:

Ich habe die Diagramme A2a, A3, A4a, dann A2b, weiter in A3 und A4b bis Ende des Diagramms gehäkelt. Es sind somit 12 Quadrate entstanden. Verstehe nicht wie es weitergeht. Mit A2b ist ok, aber wie weiter? Es passt nicht zusammen.

10.08.2022 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, nachdem Sie A.2b 1x in der Höhe gehäkelt haben, dann häkeln Sie weiter wie zuvor, mit *A.2b in jeder Ecke, dann A.3 wiederholen bis die nächste Ecke, A.4b bis zur Ecke*. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.08.2022 - 10:14

country flag Marlies Peters wrote:

Goedendag, Er staat dat je 800 gram garen nodig hebt, klopt dit of moet dit 800 meter zijn? Met vriendelijke groet Marlies Peters

27.05.2022 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marlies,

De hoeveelheden worden altijd in grammen aangegeven en de hoeveelheid zou ook moeten kloppen. Je hebt dus 16 bollen nodig voor 800 gram.

28.05.2022 - 08:22

country flag Stefanie Stark wrote:

Wo finde ich das Diagramm A3?

06.09.2021 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefanie. Das Diagramm A.3 liegt zwischen A.5 und A.6.

06.09.2021 - 13:55

country flag Katrien Vandezande wrote:

Als ik voor het rugpand alle toeren van A2b, A3 en A4b in de hoogte haak tot ik aan 42 op 42 cm kom, moet ik dan ook aan de pijl beginnen bij A3 of pas in de 2de helft van A3 (de 5de rij vanaf de pijl)? Alvast bedankt voor de moeite.

13.02.2021 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Katrien,

Ja, dat klopt, telkens als je opnieuw in de hoogte begint met A.3, begin je weer bij de pijl en niet halverwege het telpatroon.

16.02.2021 - 15:21

country flag Carolina Mancera wrote:

Hola. Creo que si pusierais video/tutorial paso a paso de cada labor, seria de gran ayuda a la hora de llevar a cabo las labores tan hermosas que teneis aquí expuestas. Las labores son preciosas, pero sus instrucciones son escasas y dificiles al menos para mi. Tengo interés en varios modelos pero me es imposible de llevar a cabo. Mi enhorabuena por el trabajo. Daros las gracias de antemano. att

04.07.2020 - 22:15

country flag Carolina Mancera wrote:

¿Podríais mandarme video tutorial de toda la labor paso a paso? no se como seguirlo. en Español. gracias. no soy muy docta en crochet/ganchillo. att.

04.07.2020 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carolina. No hacemos tutoriales personalizados. Todos los vídeos que te pueden ayudar en la elaboración del modelo los tienes bajo el patrón. Puedes también contactar con la tienda especializada de DROPS más cercana.

10.07.2020 - 20:34