Belle Époque |
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Fitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
DROPS 186-7 |
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INFORMATION FOR PATTERN: GARTER STITCH (back and forth): 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. INCREASE TIP-1: To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 98 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 5.2. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2, A.4, A.5, A.7 and A.8). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. RAGLAN: All increases are done from the right side. Increase for raglan on each side of A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarns over to make holes. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch on sleeves and according to diagram on front and back piece. DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves): All decreases are done from the right side! Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to purl sections on body): All increases are done from the right side. Increase 1 stitch in every purl section by making 1 yarn over before all 2 purl stitches. On next row (wrong side) knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole. On next increase make 1 yarn over after every 3 purl stitches. Continue increase by alternately increasing at beginning and end of purl section. INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides of body): All increases are done from the right side. Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-4 (applies to sections in stockinette stitch over A.7/A.8 on body): All increases are done from the right side. When A.7/A.8 has been done, work in stockinette stitch over the 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches with lace pattern. Increase over these 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches as follows: Work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until 1 stitch in stockinette stitch remains, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. BUTTONHOLES: Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after edge in garter stitch in neck. Then decrease the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 7-7-7½-7-7½-7½ cm / 2¾"-2¾"-2⅞"-2¾"-2⅞"-2⅞" between each. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down. NECK EDGE: Cast on 98-102-106-110-114-118 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 17-13-9-15-11-7 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 115-115-115-125-125-125 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work yoke as explained below. YOKE: Work first row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches), A.2 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 35-35-35-41-41-41 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.5 (= 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), work A.6 (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front = 129-129-129-139-139-139 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.3/A.6). Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on every row from right side increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, until increase has been done 14-18-20-21-24-26 times on each side of A.3 (including increases on first row from right side after neck edge). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! NOTE! When A.2/A.4/A.5 has been worked, continue pattern the same way, but work the next increased stitches on each side of A.3 in stockinette stitch. In size S the increases for raglan is done when 3 rows remain in A.2/A.4/A.5, continue pattern without increase as explained below. After last increase for raglan there are 237-269-285-303-327-343 stitches on needle if it is on a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6 or 243-275-291-309-333-349 stitches if it is on a row with 8/9/8 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6. Continue pattern as before without increases for raglan until piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm / 6¾"-7½"-8¼"-9"-9¾"-10½" from cast-on edge mid front, but finish so that last row is a row with 7/8/7 stitches in A.1/A.3/A.6. Work next row as follows from right side: Continue with band, pattern and in stockinette stitch as before over the first 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue in stockinette stitch and pattern as before over the next 65-73-77-85-93-101 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and continue in stockinette stitch, pattern and band over the remaining 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: = 153-169-181-197-217-237 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side and move the marker threads upwards when working. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit. Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 (= 7 or 8 stitches), work A.7 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram where pattern was finished at division), work in stockinette stitch over the next 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches, A.8 over the next 55-55-55-65-65-65 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct diagram), purl 2, 13-21-27-26-36-46 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.8 over the next 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct row in diagram), continue A.6 (= 7 or 8 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue the pattern like this – READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE IN THE SIDES: When piece measures 1 cm / ⅜" from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 5 times in total in each side = 131-147-159-175-195-215 stitches (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6). INCREASE IN PURL SECTIONS: When piece measures 6 cm / 2⅜" from division, increase 1 stitch in every purl section marked with arrow in diagram (i.e. increase in all purl sections except the one purl section closest mid front in each side = 12 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 5 cm / 2" 6 times in total in every purl section (there are now 8 stitches in each of these purl sections). INCREASE IN THE SIDES: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾" from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm / 2⅜" 3 times in total in each side. INCREASE IN STOCKINETTE STITCH SECTIONS: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6" from division, finish A.7 and A.8 after one whole repetition vertically. Then work knit over knit and purl over purl over these stitches. On next row from right side increase 2 stitches in each stockinette stitch section over A.7/A.8 - read INCREASE TIP-4 (= 18 stitches increased). Repeat this increase after 2 cm / ¾" (= 18 stitches increased). When all increases are done there are 251-267-279-295-315-335 stitches on row (without yarn overs in A.1/A.6). Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼"-24"-24¾"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛" from shoulder and down, but adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and cast loosely off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½" from shoulder and down. SLEEVE: Slip the 49-57-61-62-66-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 55-63-69-70-76-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm / ¾"-¾"-¾"-¾"-1"-1" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm / 1¼"-⅞"-¾"-½"-⅜"-⅜" 7-10-12-12-14-14 times in total = 41-43-45-46-48-50 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 26-25-24-21-20-19 cm / 10¼"-9¾"-9½"-8¼"-8"-7½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 40-40-40-48-48-48. Work A.9 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.9 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-25-24-23 cm / 11¾"-11½"-11"-9¾"-9½"-9" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons on to the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (61)
Nina wrote:
Jeg har samme problem Kathryn, får ikke mønsteret til å stemme. Jeg strikker str S, og har 129 m etter første runde inkl alle kast og stolper. Men rad 2 fra vrangen er i følge mønsteret 125 m (A1=8m, A2=11m, A3=9m, 2m, A3=9m, A4=37m, A3=9m, 2m, A3=9m, A5=11m og A6=8m +10 stolpemasker). Det betyr at jeg har 4m til overs som ikke står i mønsteret. Hvor skal de være??
02.07.2020 - 19:25DROPS Design answered:
Hej Nina, Kastene i diagrammerne strikkes ifølge diagrammerne og kastene på hver side af A.3 strikkes i glatstrik på ærmerne og ifølge diagram på for og bagstykket. God fornøjelse!
07.07.2020 - 10:03Paméla wrote:
Bonjour, finalement j'me suis débrouillée, j'ai fait de moi même des diminutions, parce que attendre après votre réponse, je ne pourrais plus m'avancer dans mon tricot. Cordialement.
29.04.2020 - 18:59Paméla wrote:
Bonjour, je viens de finir les augmentations du raglan, donc cela me fait 8 fois 24 mailles plus les mailles des diagrammes avec les augmentations qui ont été faites jusqu'au bout, mais quand je compte toutes mes mailles, ça m'en fait 389 au lieu de 327,je comprends pas pourquoi parce que j'ai bien suivi toutes les instructions. Du coup pour faire la séparation des manches y'a rien qui correspond, vous pouvez m'aider et m'expliquer pourquoi j'ai 62 mailles de trop. Merci d'avance.
23.04.2020 - 16:20Paméla wrote:
Bonjour, je dois continuer les augmentations du raglan en taille XXL, mais je ne comprends pas comment je dois continuer après avoir fait tous les rangs des diagrammes A2, A4 et A5. Je continue en point fantaisie ? Sans augmenter dans les cessions envers ? Et ça veut dire quoi "mais tricoter en Jersey les augmentations suivantes de chaque côté de A3"? Merci d'avance pour votre aide et bonne journée à vous.
21.04.2020 - 10:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Paméla, vous continuez à augmenter pour le raglan jusqu'à ce que les 26 augmentations aient été faites de chaque côté de A.3, ces augmentations après les diagrammes se tricotent en jersey endroit, en même temps, vous continuez à répéter les points ajourés en hauteur comme avant, autrement dit, le point ajouré n'augmente plus en largeur et les augmentations des raglans que vous ferez à partir de la fin des diagrammes se tricotent en jersey endroit. Bon tricot!
21.04.2020 - 10:15Century wrote:
Bonjour, Je suis rendu au rang 2 (rang envers) de l'empiècement (taille XL). Dois-je tricoter les motifs comme ils viennent (A6 - A5 - A3 - 2 mailles jersey - A3 - A4 - A3 - 2 mailles jersey - A3 - A2 - A1) sans refaire de jetés? Je ne suis pas bien sûr de comprendre les instructions. Pourriez-vous m'indiquer par exemple le nombre de mailles après le 2ème rang de l'empiècement (ou mieux, la manière de réaliser ce rang)? Je vous remercie.
17.04.2020 - 01:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Century, tout à fait, sur l'envers vous tricotez le rang suivant des diagrammes en les lisant de gauche à droite, sur l'envers vous n'aurez ni diminutions, ni jeté, vous tricoterez donc les mailles soit à l'envers soit à l'endroit en fonction des diagrammes. Tricotez les jetés des raglans à l'envers. Vous augmentez pour les raglans 8 m tous les rangs = 1 m pour chaque devant, 2 m pour le dos et 2 m pour chaque manche. (attention à votre nombre de mailles en fonction de A.3, il peut varier d'1 m pour chaque A.3). Bon tricot!
17.04.2020 - 09:07Anna wrote:
Witam, ten model bardzo mi się podoba lecz nigdy nie robiłam techniką na okrągło jak również od góry do dołu ani reglanu. Czy można zrobić ten model od dołu do góry? Jeśli tak to czy wystarczy odwrócić schemat "do góry nogami" i przerabiać według niego? Czy znajdę u Was kurs reglanu od dołu? Pozdrawiam serdecznie Anna
15.04.2020 - 12:01DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Aniu! Jest to bardzo proste i zawsze musi być ten pierwszy raz:) Ten sweterek będzie przerabiany w tę i z powrotem tylko na drutach z żyłką, jak to się robi znajdziesz TUTAJ. TUTAJ znajdziesz cały kurs, jak krok po kroku przerabiać sweterek od góry do dołu. Czekamy na efekty na naszej grupie DROPS Workshop na facebooku. Pozdrawiamy!
15.04.2020 - 17:12Kara wrote:
What do you mean by '5 band stitches towards mid-front'? Don't understand at all. Pattern is gorgeous but confusing.
23.12.2019 - 00:37DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kara, the buttnband of this cardigan is knitted along with the whole sweater (and not added separately later). So when you cast on, you also cast on on both sides 5 stitches that are knitted in garter stitch throughout. Happy Knitting!
24.12.2019 - 17:37Kathryn Baron wrote:
I think I have figured out the discrepancies between the row counts of row 2 and 3 of the pattern in the small size, It seems that on row 3, four of the 8 yarn overs around the A3 pattern are included in the pattern but 4 are not this accounts for the 4 remaining stitches.
06.11.2019 - 17:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Baron, with only the increases for raglan you should get 123 sts after 1st row + the YO in A.1 + the YOs in A.3 (=4) + the YO in A.6, there are: 123 + 1 +4 + 1 = 129 sts. Happy knitting!
07.11.2019 - 08:30Kathryn Baron wrote:
I am still stuck on the second row as you haven’t understood my question. I realize you are translating so I will try to make my issue clearer. I am working the small/med size. Row 1 ends with 129 stitches. Row 2 has only 125 stitches as I have listed in my first message. You said A4 has 41 but that is for XL size. A4 has only 37 in the small row 2. Has anyone else managed to knit this size and if so how did they get passed this? I won’t give up as I really want to knit this.
06.11.2019 - 09:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Baron, sorry for late answer - after you have worked first row in diagrams, there are 129 sts including the yarn overs made in the lace patterns of diagrams A.1, A.3 and A.6 (these yarn overs are not increased stitches since they will be decreased on row 3 of these diagrams, but they are counted on this row). Happy knitting!
06.11.2019 - 12:00Kathryn Baron wrote:
Please help me again. Your answer to my previous question only partially solved my issue. Regarding Row 2 of the small size pattern after the yoke and my being unable to account for 129 stitches. You said that pattern A4 should have 41 stitches yet on the diagram it only shows 37 on the second row. The first row has 35 and the second row only 1 extra at each end. Please help I can’t go further until I solve this and I really want to knit this jacket.
01.11.2019 - 13:06