DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Taormina

Jacket with lace pattern and round yoke, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS 186-18
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-047
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 25, lavender

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm for edges in garter stitch – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 to A.3).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to increase on yoke):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 143 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches = 133 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 5.54. 
I.e. in this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to increase on body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased on row). Do not work yarn overs twisted on next row, they should make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): Work from right side until 3 stitches remain at the end of row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 8½ cm apart.
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JACKET:
Yoke and body are worked back and forth, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 126-130-136-142-149-154 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyMerino. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), knit 22-23-25-26-27-29 and increase 1-3-1-2-3-2 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2-2-1-1-1-1 *, work from *-* over the next 14 stitches (= 7-7-14-14-14-14 stitches increased), knit 44-46-48-52-57-58 and increase 1-5-1-5-8-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 2-2-1-1-1-1 *, work from *-* over the next 14 stitches (= 7-7-14-14-14-14 stitches increased), knit 22-23-25-26-27-29 and increase 1-3-1-2-3-2 stitches evenly over these stitches and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band) = 143-155-167-179-191-191 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side but knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), A.1a (= 12 stitches), work A.2a (= 12 stitches) over the next 108-120-132-144-156-156 stitches (= 9-10-11-12-13-13 times in width), A.3a (= 13 stitches) and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band). Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly on every row marked with increase arrow in diagram A.1 as follows:
Every time 12 stitches are increased work A.2 1 more time in total in width.
Every time 24 stitches are increased work A.2 2 more times in total in width.
Every time 36 stitches are increased work A.2 3 more times in total in width.
1ST INCREASE: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 167-179-191-203-215-227 stitches.
2ND INCREASE: Increase 24-24-24-24-24-36 stitches = 191-203-215-227-239-263 stitches.
3RD INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 215-227-239-251-263-287 stitches.
4TH INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 239-251-263-275-287-311 stitches.
5TH INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 263-275-287-299-311-335 stitches.
6TH INCREASE: Increase 24 stitches = 287-299-311-323-335-359 stitches.
When A.1a to A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 14 cm from neck edge. Now work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a and continue increases as follows:
7TH INCREASE: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 299-323-335-347-359-383 stitches.
8TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 311-335-359-371-383-407 stitches.
9TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-24-24-24-24 stitches = 323-347-383-395-407-431 stitches.
10TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-12-12-24-24 stitches = 335-359-395-407-431-455 stitches.
Increase is now done in size S, M and L, but continues in XL, XXL and XXXL as follows:
11TH INCREASE: Increase 12-24-24 stitches = 419-455-479 stitches.
12TH INCREASE: Increase 12-12-24 stitches = 431-467-503 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 335-359-395-431-467-503 stitches (repeat A.2b 25-27-30-33-36-39 times in width).
Work pattern until piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from cast-on edge. Now divide piece for body and sleeves from right side as follows: (Work stitches that do not fit the pattern as first stitch in A.1b) Work 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), pattern as before over the next 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 89-99-107-121-133-147 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work pattern as before over the next 44-49-53-60-66-73 stitches and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band = front piece).
Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 207-227-243-271-295-323 stitches. Work pattern with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of piece, work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in each of the sides (i.e. under sleeves) as first stitch in A.1b. When A.1b to A.3b have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 27-27-27-30-30-30 cm. Then work in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of piece.
Insert 1 marker thread 54-59-63-70-76-83 stitches in from each side (= front pieces = 99-109-117-131-143-157 stitches on back piece).
On next row from right side, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 4th row until piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from where body was divided from sleeves = approx. 287-311-335-359-391-423 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, work A.4 until 6 stitches remain, work A.5 over next stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 and A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 35-35-36-36-36-36 cm from where body was divided from sleeves and approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from neck edge. Cast off (make sure to cast off loosely, cast off with 1 needle size bigger if needed).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 74-76-86-90-96-100 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 84-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. Work A.2b over the stitches that fit the pattern, purl the stitches that do not fit the pattern under sleeve when stitches are purled and knit them when stitches are knitted. When A.2b has been worked vertically, sleeve measures approx. 7-5-4-5-3-1 cm from where sleeve was divided from body.
On next row decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm 14-15-19-20-22-23 times in total = 56-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
Continue until sleeve measures 33-32-31-29-28-26 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work A.4 over all stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, cast off all stitches (make sure to cast off loosely, cast off with 1 needle size bigger if needed).
Sleeve measures approx. 36-35-34-32-31-29 cm from where sleeve was divided from body. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.03.2018
Diagram A.1a has been edited.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, do NOT work yarn over twisted, it should make a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = increase arrow
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Josiane wrote:

Bonjour je me suis trompée , j\'ai tricoter le 2eme diagramme en 1er. peut- on tricoter le 1er diagramme en suivant conte tenu que les augmentations ne sont pas au même endroit . Merci

20.02.2024 - 13:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josiane, pour obtenir la bonne forme avec les augmentations au bon endroit pour l'empiècement, il est sûrement préférable de tricoter les diagrammes dans le bon ordre, je suis désolée. Bon tricot!

20.02.2024 - 15:43

country flag Joan Høst wrote:

Jeg spurgte tidligere om knaphul. Jeg har nu tænkt mig om. Det er selvfølgelig fordi jeg strikker oppefra og ned. Det har jeg ikke prøvet før. Nu giver det mening.

27.02.2023 - 19:00

country flag Joan Høst wrote:

Knaphul skal laves i højre side. Skal laves fra retsiden. Der står det skal laves i slutningen af retpinden. Bliver det så ikke i venstre forkant. Eller misforstår jeg noget?

26.02.2023 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Joan, ikke når du strikker oppefra, fra retsiden starter du med venstre forstykke, strikker rundt og kommer om til højre forstykke og her laver du knaphullet :)

28.02.2023 - 15:01

country flag Catherine wrote:

Comment adapter le modèle taormina en 6/8 ans

11.04.2022 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, vous pouvez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous conseiller et vous renseigner. Bon tricot!

12.04.2022 - 08:57

country flag Christiane wrote:

Is the whole pattern worked with needles 2,5mm? I guess I’m confused because the gauge (trial sample) is worked with needle 3 mm.

03.07.2021 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christiane, you do change the needles to 3 mm doing the youke, and sleeves are started with 3 mm as well, only changing at the last part to 2,5 mm. Happy Knitting!

04.07.2021 - 00:45

country flag Lorraine wrote:

Are the increases in the body meant to make holes as in the instructions? I do not understand why there should be holes down each side of the garment

12.06.2021 - 07:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorraine, the holes used as a design element, to emphasize the lines of teh sweater. Of course, if it bothers you, and / or you'd prefer not to have them there, you can always knit the yarnover twisted in the next row. Happy Stitching!

13.06.2021 - 09:48

country flag Janne Feldstedt wrote:

Hvorfor skal der strikke 2 masker sammen og derefter omslag på pind 51 i rapport A 3b str. XL når der i rapport A 2b og A 1b først laves omslag og derefter en maske løs af som trækkes over næste maske? Kan det være rigtigt at jeg skal strikke på pinde nr 4 for at få strikkefastheden til at passe? Der står i opskriften at udtagningstips 2 skal bruges til udtagning på for- og bagstykke, men der bliver da hul hvis man ikke strikker masken drejet på næste pind.,

11.04.2021 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janne, for at det skal blive ens på hver side mod midt foran. Det er muligt, du skal få 24 masker i glatstrik på 10 cm. Ja det stemmer, vi har små huller ved udtagningerne i siderne, men du gør selvfølgelig som du vil :)

12.04.2021 - 14:18

country flag Christine MONNIER wrote:

Bonjour Modele 186.18 Après avoir tricoté A4 et A5 pour dos devant et manches, vous indiquez rabattre souplement. Sur le modèle cela paraît plus large après le dernier rang et ça ne roulotte pas. Que préconisez vous ? Cordialement

12.03.2021 - 14:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Monnier, vous pouvez tricoter une ou plusieurs autres côtes mousse supplémentaires si vous le souhaitez (avant et après le point ajouré au milieu de A.5 ou bien avant ou bien après seulement, au choix). Quand le gilet est terminé, humidifiez-le ou lavez-le (en suivant très attentivement les consignes de l'étiquette + ces quelques généralités), laissez le sécher bien à plat en épinglant les bords si besoin. Bon tricot!

12.03.2021 - 15:33

country flag Francesca Antonelli wrote:

Scusate ma ho scritto di fretta e forse non mi sono spiegata bene ..le maglie che mi ritrovo in più che non rientrano nei diagrammi le lavoro a maglia rasata giusto ?

24.02.2021 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Francesca, nelle spiegazioni è indicato di lavorare le maglie in eccesso come la prima maglia di A.1b, quindi deve seguire il diagramma. Buon lavoro!

27.02.2021 - 11:05

country flag Francesca Antonelli wrote:

Lavorare le maglie che non rientrano nel motivo come la prima maglia in A.1b). Lavorare 5 maglie a maglia legaccio (= bordo), motivo come prima sulle 44-49-53-60-66-73 maglie successive buongiorno volevo sapere come lavorare a questo punto..se ho 53 maglie =davanti come faccio a fare gli schemi abbastanza a2b e a3b se 12 +12+12 +12 arrivo a 48 maglie se aggiungo a1b cioè 13 maglie arrivo a 61 maglie ..ho 6 maglie in più x il davanti come le lavoro se non rientrano negli schemi? Buona giornata

24.02.2021 - 07:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Francesca, se abbiamo capito bene la sua richiesta, può lavorare le maglie che non rientrano nel motivo come la 1° maglia di A.1b. Buon lavoro!

24.02.2021 - 21:54