DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.00 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Copenhagen

Knitted jacket with V-neck, split in the sides and diagonal shoulders. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS 188-17
DROPS Design: Pattern no ab-086
Yarn group C + C or E
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 color 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-175-175-200-225 g color 12, powder pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 9 mm/US 13 – or the size needed to get10 stitches and 14 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 8 mm / US 11 for rib – or the size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blush) NO 607: 3 items for all sizes.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.00 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 71 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.1. In this example, work approx. every 9th and 10th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease for neck on inside of the 4 stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows before the 4 stitches in garter stitch: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows after the 4 stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together 3rd and 4th stitch from edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row, knit the yarn over = hole.
Work buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 35, 44 and 53 cm
M: 36, 45 and 54 cm
L: 37, 46 and 55 cm
XL: 38, 47 and 56 cm
XXL: 39, 48 and 57 cm
XXXL: 40, 49 and 58 cm
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 71-71-77-83-89-95 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and 1 strand of Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows – from the right side: 4 stitches GARTER STITCH - see description above, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 3 stitches, 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2'' – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm / US 13. Knit 1 row (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) where you decrease 7-3-5-7-9-11 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side until the piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm / 24½"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-25½"-26"-26½'' from the cast-on edge. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 3 stitches in each side for armholes = 58-62-66-70-74-78 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm / 28¾''-29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾'' work 2 ridges over the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches (the other stitches are worked as before), then bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease 1 stitch inside the 4 stitches in garter stitch on the next row from the neck = 24-26-27-29-30-32 stitches. On the next row from the side/armhole, bind off for diagonal shoulder: bind off every 2nd row 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches 1 time and 12-13-13-14-15-16 stitches 1 time. The piece measures approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½'' from the top of shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-41-47-47-53-53 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work rib as follows – from the right side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 3 stitches, 4 stitches in garter stitch towards the side. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2'' – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm / US 13. Knit 1 row (with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side) where you decrease 5-3-7-5-9-7 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) = 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch, 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch towards the side – remember BUTTONHOLES! When the piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm / 21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22¾''-23¼'' decrease 1 stitch inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch for the V-neck - read DECREASE TIP-2! Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm / 24½"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-25½"-26"-26½'' bind off 3 stitches for armhole on the next row from the side. Then work stockinette stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side to finished length. When all decreases are finished, there are 24-26-27-29-30-32 stitches left on shoulder. When the piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8'' – adjust to match the back piece, bind off from the side/armhole for diagonal shoulder: bind off every 2nd row 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches 1 time and 12-13-13-14-15-16 stitches 1 time. The piece measures approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½'' from the top of the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 41-41-47-47-53-53 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows – from the right side: 4 stitches in garter stitch towards the side, * knit 3, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 3 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue like this until the rib measures 5 cm / 2'' – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm / US 13. Knit 1 row (with 4 stitches in garter stitch towards each side) where you decrease 5-3-7-5-9-7 stitches evenly on row (but not over the stitches in garter stitch) = 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch, 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch towards the side. When the piece measures 54-55-56-57-58-59 cm / 21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22¾''-23¼'' decrease 1 stitch inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch - remember DECREASE TIP-2! Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm / 24½"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-25½"-26"-26½'' bind off 3 stitches for armhole on the next row from the side. Then work stockinette stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side to finished length. When all decreases are finished, there are 24-26-27-29-30-32 stitches left on shoulder. When the piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8'' – adjust to match the back piece and right front piece, bind off from the side/armhole for diagonal shoulder: bind off every 2nd row 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches 1 time and 12-13-13-14-15-16 stitches 1 time. The piece measures approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½'' from the top of shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib (= knit 3 / purl 3) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until the piece measures 5 cm / 2''. Change to circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 . Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 11-9-8-11-9-8 cm / 4½"-3½"-3"-4½"-3½"-3'' , increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 11-9-10-15-13-9 cm / 4½"-3½"-4"-6"-5"-3½'' a total of 2-3-4-2-3-4 times = 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches. When the piece measures 44-43-42-41-40-39 cm / 17 1/4"-17"-16½"-16"-15 3/4"-15 1/4'' (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders), bind off.
Work 1 more sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Assembly is with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the bind-off edges so that the seam is not thick. Sew the sleeves to the body. Sew the sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew the side seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch from under the armhole and down until you have approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4'' left on the seam (= split). Sew buttons onto left band. Cut and fasten the strands.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 188-17

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Stefanie Kuboth wrote:

Bei einer Länge von 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm 2 Krausrippen (= 4 Reihen kraus rechts) über die mittleren 16-16-18-18-20-20 Maschen stricken NUN MEINE FRAGE liebes Drops team...\\\\r\\\\n.stricke ich jetzt diese 4 Reihen Kraus rechts und fange dann an mit dem abnehmen an sprich halsauschnitt und spät er die schulterschräge?vielen Dank jetzt schon für ihre Antwort...mfg

30.05.2018 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kuboth, es wird zuerst über alle Maschen gestrickt und gleichzeitg die 2 Krausrippen über die mittleren 16-20 Maschen gestrickt, dann, nach dieser 2 Krausrippen werden die mittleren 8-10-12 M für den Halsausschnitt abgekettet und erst jetzt wird jeder Schulter separat gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.05.2018 - 08:58

Joanna wrote:

Hi there!\r\nI am using Polish pattern instruction and I am not sure how to finish the back piece and left&right front pieces. When there are 24 stiches left, should I make one stich out of every two (narrowing the shoulder part), or should I close first twelve stiches 1 time and then close 12 last stiches 2nd time (creating a kind of step) ?

25.05.2018 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joanna, when 24 sts remain, cast off the first 12 sts at the beg of row from side/armholes (towards neck), work row to the end, turn and cast off the remaining 12 sts on next row from side/armhole. Happy knitting!

25.05.2018 - 13:03

country flag Susi wrote:

Gestrickt, angezogen und wohlgefühlt. Die Jacke ist ein Traum und mein Lieblingsteil.

10.05.2018 - 13:40

country flag Katharina wrote:

Hallo, ich habe ein Verständnisproblem bei den Abnahmen für die Schulterschrägung. Bedeutet 14x1 Masche und 13x1 Masche abnehmen, dass in jeder Reihe an der Armausschnittseite insgesamt 2 Maschen abgekettet werden sollen?

13.04.2018 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, für die Schulterskrägung wird in der 3. Größe 14 Maschen x 1 und dann 13 Maschen x 1 in jede 2. Reihe abgekettet, dh am Anfang jeder Reihe von der Armausschnitt 14 M x 1 und 13 M x 1 abketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.04.2018 - 08:32

country flag Nicola Griggs wrote:

I would like to knit this pattern in Drops Air. Do you think this would work and how much yarn and what size needles would I need please?

31.03.2018 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicola, yes, you can substitute, and I think it would be lovely. Please check out our lesson about using a different yarn here. To calculate the amount you need please use our yarn converterhere . Please do not forget to knit a sample piece, and wash it, and then check the size and stitch counts of you swatch. You can make the necessary changes in needle size and / or stitch count accordingly. Happy Knitting!

01.04.2018 - 12:20

country flag Helena Engborg wrote:

Kan man inte lika väl sticka med vanliga stickor när man stickar fram o tillbaka? Varför rundstickor? Mycket svårare ju! Med vänlig hälsning, Helena

13.02.2018 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helena. Om du heller ønsker å strikker med parpinner og får plass til alle maskene, så må du gjerne det. God Fornøyelse!

14.02.2018 - 13:33

Irina wrote:

If i use ALPACA BOUCLÉ colour 0100, off white and BRUSHED ALPACA SILK colour 15, light sea green, do you think the colours would combine well?

01.02.2018 - 09:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irina, for any help choosing your colour we warmly recommand you to contact your DROPS store, either by telephone, mail or on the social medias. Happy knitting!

01.02.2018 - 12:08

country flag Angelika Van Der Horst wrote:

Klopt het dat je tot aan de mouwaansluiting bij het rugpand de eerste 4 steken in ribbelsteek moet breien? Dus de ribbelsteken verder dan het splitje?

21.01.2018 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Angelika, Ja, dat klopt inderdaad. Op het voorpand brei je ook ribbels in de zijkanten. Uiteraard kun je dit aanpassen als je het mooier vindt in bv. tricotsteek.

28.01.2018 - 19:48

country flag Aleksandra Karolina Strugacz wrote:

Venter på oppskrift :-)

01.01.2018 - 21:55