DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 83.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Relax

Sweater with lace pattern and high collar, crocheted from the middle and outwards in a square. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in 2 strands DROPS Air.

DROPS 183-19
DROPS design: Pattern ai-061
Yarn group C + C or E
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color no 03, pearl gray
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 01, off white

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 9 mm / M/13 – or size needed to get 8 treble crochets with 2 strands = width 10 cm / 4''.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 83.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO:
Work piece back and forth but work piece together at the end of row.
WORK A.1 TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS:
On 1st row (= from right side) with double crochets begin row with 3 chain stitches (replace first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece and work next row from wrong side.
Begin every row with single crochet and chain stitches (= from wrong side) with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece and work next row from right side.
Begin every row with treble crochets (= from right side) with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch, then 4 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece and work from wrong side.
WORK A.4 TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS (applies to sleeves and neck):
Begin every row treble crochets (= from right side) with 4 chain stitches (replaces first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch, turn piece and work next row from wrong side.
Begin every row with single crochet and chain stitches (= from wrong side) with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch, turn piece and work from right side.
WHEN WORKING BACK AND FORTH WITHOUT WORKING TOGETHER AND CUTTING THE YARN FOR EVERY ROW, BEGIN EVERY ROW AS FOLLOWS:
Begin every row with treble crochets (= from right side) with 1 single crochet in first stitch and 4 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet), when last stitch is worked pull yarn through last loop on hook.
Begin every row with single crochets and chain stitches (= from wrong side) with 1 single crochet in first stitch and 1 chain stitch (replace first single crochet), finish row with 1 single crochet in last stitch, pull yarn through last loop on hook.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice transition between the color changes, work last slip stitch on row with the new color as follows: Insert hook in chain stitch at beginning of row, get the new yarn and pull it through the stitches on hook.

STRIPES:
Work every row with double crochets/treble crochets in pearl gray - READ
COLOR CHANGE.
Work every row with single crochets and chain stitches in off white.
Make sure to avoid a tight strand when picking it up behind piece.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next treble crochet but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
----------------------------------------------------------

BACK PIECE:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 9 mm / M/13 with 2 strands pearl gray and form 1 ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work A.1 and STRIPES - see explanation above, back and forth but work every row together - READ CROCHET INFO!
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Repeat rows 5 and 6. On every row with treble crochet increase 4 treble crochets in each of the sides on square (= 16 treble crochets increased on row in total). On every row with single crochet increase 2 single crochets in each of the sides on square (= 8 single crochets increased on row in total). I.e. work more and more stitches between each corner on every row.
When piece measures 58-60-62-66-68-72 cm / 22 3/4"-23½"-24½"-26"-26 3/4"-28½'', adjust so that last row is 1 row with single crochets. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on last whole side worked (marker marks middle of neck). Fasten off. The yarn must be cut on every row onwards.

SIZE S-M-L-XL:
Now work only over side with marker (i.e. row begins at 1 corner and ends at next corner). Work A.4 back and forth over the side with marker, on first row work 2 treble crochets around each of the corners, then work A.4 over all stitches. When piece measures 63-65-67-69 cm / 24 3/4"-25½"-26½"-27'' vertically, work each shoulder separately as follows:
Work left shoulder as follows (first row = from right side):
Row now begins in 6th-6th-8th-8th stitch (= 1 chain stitch) after marker. Work A.2, then work A.4 over the remaining stitches, turn piece. Fasten off when 2 rows of A.2 have been worked.
Work right shoulder as follows (first row = from right side):
Work A.4 until 10-10-12-12 stitches remain before stitch with marker, work A.3, turn piece. Fasten off when 2 rows of A.3 have been worked. Piece measures 66-68-70-72 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28½'' vertically.

SIZE XXL-XXXL
Row now begins in 8th stitch (= 1 chain stitch) after marker for neck in one side and first row is worked from right side as follows: Work A.2, then continue as before around the back piece (i.e. increase stitches at every corner and work pattern as before, according to A.1) until 12 stitches remain before chain stitch with marker, work A.3 over the next 5 stitches, turn piece. Fasten off when 2 rows of A.2 and A.3 have been worked. Piece measures 74-78 cm / 29"-30 3/4'' in width.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece until piece measures 58-60-62-62-50-54 cm / 22 3/4"-23½"-24½"-24½"-19 3/4"-21 1/4'', adjust so that last row is 1 row with single crochets. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on last whole side worked (marker marks middle of neck). Fasten off. The yarn must be cut on every row onwards.

SIZE S-M-L:
Row now begins in 6th-6th-8th stitch (= 1 chain stitch) after marker. Work right shoulder as follows (first row = right side):
Work A.2, then work A.4 until first corner, work 2 treble crochets around chain space in corner, turn piece. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 over all stitches. Fasten off when piece measures 66-68-70 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½'' vertically.
Work left shoulder as follows (first row = right side):
Work 2 treble crochets around chain space in corner, work A.4 until 10-10-12 stitches remain before stitch with marker, work A.3, turn piece. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 over all stitches. Fasten off when piece measures 66-68-70 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½'' vertically, adjust according to right shoulder.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
Row now begins in 8th stitch (= 1 chain stitch) after marker. Work first row from right side as follows: Work A.2, then continue as before around the back piece (i.e. increase stitches at every corner and work pattern as before, according to A.1) until 12 stitches remain before chain stitch with marker, work A.3 over the next 5 stitches, turn piece.

SIZE XL:
Work like this until piece measures 66 cm / 26'' vertically, now work each shoulder separately. Work right shoulder as follows (i.e. stitches between neck and first corner):
Work A.2 as before, then work A.4 until first corner, work 2 treble crochets around chain space in corner, turn piece. Continue with A.2 and A.4 over the remaining stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 over all stitches. Fasten off when piece measures 72 cm / 28½'' vertically, adjust to finish with 1 row with single crochets.
Work left shoulder as follows (i.e. stitches between corner and neck):
Work 2 treble crochets around corner, work A.4 and A.3 as before. Continue with A.3 and A.4 over the remaining stitches. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 over all stitches. Fasten off when piece measures 72 cm / 28½'' vertically, adjust according to right shoulder.

SIZE XXL-XXXL
When A.2 and A.3 have been worked, work A.4 over these stitches, over the remaining stitches around the back piece work and increase as before according to A.1. Fasten off when piece measures 74-78 cm / 29"-30 3/4'' in width and vertically, adjust to finish with 1 row with single crochets.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with pearl gray.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves back and forth but work piece together at the end of every row, top down. Work 33-34-37-39-40-42 chain stitches on hook size 9 mm / M/13 with 2 strands pearl gray and form 1 ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 4 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4-5-1-3-4-6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of row = 29-30-32-34-35-37 treble crochets. Continue with stripes and A.4 over all stitches (first row in A.4 = wrong side).
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', adjust so that next row is 1 row with treble crochets, decrease 1 treble crochet at beginning and end of row as follows: Work 4 chain stitches, work the next 2 treble crochets together - READ DECREASE TIP, work as before until 2 treble crochets remain, work the last 2 treble crochets together (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 8-8-8-6-5-4 cm / 3"-3"-3"-2 1/4"-2"-1½'' 5-5-5-6-6-7 times in total = 19-20-22-22-23-23 treble crochets. Fasten off piece measures 45-45-45-44-41-40 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-16"-15 3/4'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), adjust to finish with 1 row with single crochets and chain stitches. Work another sleeve.

NECK:
Work piece back and forth but work piece together at the end of row. Begin in one shoulder seam, work with 2 strands pearl gray from wrong side as follows: Work * 1 single crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck.
Then work 2 treble crochets around every chain stitch. Then work pattern A.4 over all stitches. When neck measures approx. 14 cm / 5½'', adjust so that next row is 1 row with single crochets and chain stitches, switch to 2 strands off white. Work 1 row with single crochets and chain stitches. Fasten off. Neck measures approx. 15 cm / 6''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves with pearl gray. Sew side seams with off white down until approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' remain (= vent).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 4 chain stitches and form 1 ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = slip stitch
symbols = first row is explained in pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 183-19

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Eileen wrote:

Kan man hækle den med 1 tråd alt for tyk?

09.10.2019 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eileen, da vil målene ikke komme til at stemme... Den her er strikket i en tråd DROPS Air: 172-41 i DROPS Air

10.10.2019 - 14:23

country flag Lena Carlvsvärd wrote:

Tack, men som sagt, masktäthet och mått stämmer. Men allt ser tjockt och kompakt ut, och bilden ni har, där ser den betydligt luftigare ut...? Jag har använt dubbelt garn o rätt virknål. Är det säkert att det är garnet Air på modellen?

07.10.2019 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena. DROPS Air er et av de mest luftige garn vi har, så dersom det er brukt et annet garn (i garngruppe C), ville genseren på bildet ha sett mer kompakt ut. Men ta gjerne med deg genseren til din forhandler, slik at de kan se på den. mvh DROPS design

07.10.2019 - 14:06

country flag Lena Carlsvärd wrote:

Jag har nu virkat hela framstycket o har bara lite kvar på axlarna. Jag har rätt garn och rätt stlk på virknål, även rätt masktäthet. Dock upplever jag att det blir väldigt kompakt. Undrar nu, det står ju ”virkas med två trådar” och jag tolkar det som att jag ska virka med två gråa resp två naturfärgade garnnystan på samma gång, dvs dubbel tråd, vilket jag har gjort. Är det verkligen rätt? Tacksam för svar!

06.10.2019 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena. Det hekles med 2 tråder perlegrå ELLER 2 tråder natur. Slik står det i oppskriften: Varje varv med stolpar/dubbelstolpar virkas i pärlgrå. Varje varv med fastmaskor och luftmaskor virkas i natur. Prøv å mål skuldervidden og så mål ditt eget erme (se på bildet hvor skuldersømmen er), syns du fremdeles det blirt for lite/kompakt? mvh DROPS design

07.10.2019 - 11:49

country flag Susanne Laursen wrote:

Kan ikke få ærmerne til at passe med antal cm rund ved start på ærme . det passer med luftmasker og cm men lige så snart jeg arbejder på 1 rk bliver det noget større .. skal der hækles med 1 dobbeltstangmaske eller med 2 dobbeltstangmaske.

05.09.2018 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Susanne. Du har 29-30-32-34-35-37 masker på omgangen (før du begynner å felle) – med den angitte heklefastheten stemmer dette overens med målene i målskissen. Det kan være utfordrende å overholde heklefastheten. Når du hekler etter A.4 hekles det annenhver omgang: fastmaske, luftmaske, fastmaske, luftmaske osv, og annenhver omgang: hopp over fastmasken, 2 dobbelstaver i luftmasken, hopp over fastmasken, 2 dobbelstaver i luftmasken, osv. God fornøyelse.

06.09.2018 - 11:28