DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Rainbow Hugs Jacket

Knitted jacket with Nordic Fana pattern, round yoke, stripes, worked top down with split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.

DROPS 183-26
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-246
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-750-800-900 g colour 0300, beige
50 g for all sizes in following colours:
1709, navy blue
8906, forest
8905, deep ocean
6314, denim blue
4434, purple
2923, goldenrod
8910, raspberry rose
3608, deep red

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM for garter stitch edges and bands - or the size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS METAL BUTTONS, Jagged NO 534: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans assembly free madame round neck round yoke stripes top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth – for yoke and body):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round – for sleeves):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

MOSS STITCH:
ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROW 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat row 2.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from right side. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

ROUND YOKE:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase on yoke on each side of the stitches with markers (= 16 increased stitches per row – see arrows in A.1) as follows: Make 1 yarn over on each side of stitch with marker. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (for body):
All increases are worked from right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 stitches (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase in this way at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased). Purl the yarn overs twisted on next row to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together.
The stitches which do not fit into the pattern are worked in background colour.

BUTTONHOLES (for band):
Work buttonholes in right band.
When band measures approx. 1.5 cm work 7-7-7-8-8-8 buttonholes evenly spread (the buttonholes are worked in purl section seen from right side). 1 buttonhole = purl 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over – top buttonhole should be approx. 2 cm from the top, the other buttonholes with approx. 7 cm between each.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down.
You can work an elevation in back of neck for a better fit, so the neck is a little higher at back. You can skip this elevation if you wish; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description of elevation further down in text. After the yoke, work the body back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. The bands are worked back and forth to finish.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-98 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4mm and beige. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work as follows - from the right side: 1edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-14-15-16-17-18 stitches stocking stitch and increase 0-2-2-2-3-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 11 times, 26-28-30-32-34-37 stitches stocking stitch and increase 0-4-4-4-6-9 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 11 times, 13-14-15-16-17-19 stitches stocking stitch and increase 0-2-2-2-3-4 stitches evenly over these stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 98-110-114-118-126-138 stitches. Work the yarn overs twisted, there should be no holes. Now you can work an elevation in back of neck or go straight to yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker between the 2 middle stitches on the row (= mid back). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Start from the right side with beige and knit until you have reached 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 66-66-72-78-78-84 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row.

YOKE:
Insert 8 marker threads in the piece from wrong side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 5-7-6-8-9-8 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker in next stitch, * 11-12-13-13-14-16 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker in next stitch *, work from *-* until there are 7-10-8-10-10-9 stitches left (= a total of 7 times), finish with 6-9-7-9-9-8 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work A.1 (= 4 stitches) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece (= 24-27-28-29-31-34 times) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read ROUND YOKE, on the rows marked with an arrow in diagram A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Increase a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times (when you have increased this number of times, you no longer increase on the rows marked with arrows in the diagram) = 242-270-290-310-334-362 stitches. Continue this pattern without increases until the piece measures21-22-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side – make sure it is a row worked in beige: Work 35-39-41-45-50-55 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 52-58-64-66-68-72 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work 68-76-80-88-98-108 stitches (= back piece), place the next 52-58-64-66-68-72 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve) and work the remaining 35-39-41-45-50-55 stitches (= left front piece).

BODY:
= 150-166-178-194-218-238 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches that where cast on. And insert 1 marker in piece to measure from, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Let the marker threads follow in piece. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.1 has been completed in height continue working with beige. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards.
When piece measures 3 cm from where sleeves were placed on a thread, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way every 5th row a total of 6 times = 174-190-202-218-242-262 stitches.
When piece measures 29-30-31-31-31-31 cm from where the piece was divided (adjust so that the last row was from the wrong side), divide the piece at the marker threads; front and back pieces are finished separately (= 8 cm split).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 44-48-51-55-61-66 stitches. Work as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work stocking stitch until there are 5 stitches left before the first marker thread and 5 stitches MOSS STITCH – see description above, turn the piece. Continue the pattern in this way over these stitches. When piece measures 36-37-38-38-38-38 cm from the marker, change to circular needle size 4mm and work 2 ridges over all stitches. Then cast off with circular needle size 5mm (this is so the cast-off edge will not be tight). The piece measures a total of 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm measured from the shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
= 86-94-100-108-120-130 stitches. Work as follows from the right side: Work 5 stitches moss stitch, work stocking stitch until there are 5 stitches left before the marker thread in the side and finish with 5 stitches moss stitch, turn the piece. Continue the pattern in this way over these stitches. When piece measures 36-37-38-38-38-38 cm from the marker, adjust so that it matches the front piece, change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges over all stitches. Then cast off with circular needle size 5 mm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 44-48-51-55-61-66 stitches. Work as follows from the right side: Work 5 stitches moss stitch, work stocking stitch until there is 1 stitch left on the row, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way over these stitches. When piece measures 36-37-38-38-38-38 cm from the marker, adjust so that it matches the left front piece, change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges over all stitches. Then cast off with circular needle size 5 mm.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Place the 52-58-64-66-68-72 stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 58-64-72-74-78-82 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.1. When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with beige. When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 3-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 10-12-16-16-17-18 times = 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches. When piece measures 41-40-40-38-37-35 cm, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 2 RIDGES – see description above, over all stitches. Cast off with double pointed needles size 5 mm (this is so the cast-off edge will not be tight). The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-41-39-38-36 cm from where it was separated from body. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

BAND:
Start at the top by neck on the left front piece and knit up stitches inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Knit up approx. 118-138 stitches (divisible by 4 + 2) from the right side with circular needle size 4 mm and beige. Knit 1 row, then work as follows – from the right side: 2 stitches garter stitch, * knit 2 / purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 and 2 stitches garter stitch. Continue the rib like this until the band measures 3 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. Repeat on right band, but knit up starting from the bottom – remember BUTTONHOLES – see description above. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 24.04.2018
Updated sketch

Updated online: 29.04.2019
Correction - ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Turn, tighten strand and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 66-66-72-78-78-84 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row.

Updated online: 09.11.2021
Correction number of stitches after dividing piece on body.

Diagram

	= beige
	= navy blue
	= forest
	= deep ocean
	= denim blue
	= purple
	= golden rod
	= raspberry pink
	= deep red
	= increase row

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

Rolien Verbruggen wrote:

Ik ben dit patroon aan het breien in maat XL. Ik ben de pas aan het breien, en meet nu 25 cm vanaf de opzetrand (langs de middenvoor rand). Maar ik heb pas 11x gemeerderd, ik ben nu dus bij de 11e pijl van het telpatroon. Dus qua hoogte zou ik nu de steken moeten verdelen in mouwen en lijf, maar ik kom nog 16 steken tekort. Hoe zal ik dit oplossen? NB Ik brei met Drops Nepal op nld 5,5, ik heb een steekgrootte van 17 steken/10cm en 20 naalden/10cm

17.02.2023 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rolien,

Om het patroon te kunnen volgen zou je dezelfde stekenverhouding moeten hebben als in het patroon. Als je minder steken in de hoogte hebt, dan kun je af en toe een naald extra breien (zonder te meerderen). In jou geval dus 2 naalden extra op 20 naalden.

18.02.2023 - 10:03

Marie wrote:

Guten Abend, ich stecke bei der Teilung der Arbeit (Rumpfteil zu getrennte Vorder-/Rückteile) fest. Laut Anleitung soll ich bei Größe M am Ende der Rumpfteil-Zunahmen 190 Maschen haben. Danach soll ich dann aber teilen in rechtes/linkes Vorderteil a 42 Maschen und Rückenteil mit 82 Maschen. Das ergibt aber nur 166 Maschen, also der Anzahl der Maschen vor den Rumpfteil-Zunahmen. Ich nehme an, korrekt müssten es je 48 Maschen für linkes/rechtes Vorderteil und 94 fürs Rückenteil sein?

29.10.2021 - 22:51

Liebe Marie, Sie sind ja recht, danke für den Hinweis; die Maschanzahl sollen korrigiert werden, teilen Sie die Arbeit an den Seiten, wo Sie die Markierungen am Anfang Rumpfteil eingesetzt haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.11.2021 - 13:41

Hanna wrote:

Hei! Onkohan ohjeessa virhe silmukka määrissä, kun lähdetään tekemään etu- ja takakappaleita erikseen? Lisäysten jälkeen ohjeen mukaan työssä on L koossa 202 silmukkaa, jonka jälkeen etu-kappaleisiin tulee 45 ja 45 silmukkaa sekä takakappaleeseen 88 silmukkaa. 24 silmukkaa jää työhön, mutta niitä ei ole ohjeessa.

26.04.2020 - 20:44

Jane W Collins wrote:

I can't find the designated button. What is the size of the button, please.

13.02.2020 - 17:12

Dear Mrs Collins, you will find all our buttons here - the jagged # 534 are 20 mm. Happy knitting!

14.02.2020 - 08:08

Monika wrote:

Ich habe gerade gesehen, dass die letzte Reihe für die Erhöhung doch korrigiert wurde. Danke! :-)

21.09.2019 - 12:17

Linda Roberts wrote:

This is so beautiful, though it is not a sweater for now, but I will look to make it toward the fall

02.05.2019 - 19:10

Tapiola wrote:

Bonjour, merci de m expliquer les augm. du début. En taille S, on monte 76 mailles, puis on fait 11 X 0 augm. après 14 m., 11 X 0 augm. après 26 m. suiv. +1 X 0 augm. Comment obtenir 98 mailles au total sans aucune augm. ? Pour la taille M, sont prévues : après 15 m -11 X 2 augm, après 26 m. suiv -11 X 4 augm, puis 1 X 2 augm. sur les 15 dernières m. Cela devrait faire 15m+22 augm+28m+44 augm+15m+2 augm =126 m. et non 110. Où est le pb ? Merci, et bonne journée

06.03.2019 - 12:14

Bonjour Tapiola, le décompte des mailles se fait ainsi: Taille S: 1 + 13 + (*1 jeté, 1 m end*, répéter de *-* 11 fois au total = 11 x 2 m) + 26 + (11 x 2) + 13 + 1 =98 m. Taille M: 1 + (14+2) + (*1 jeté, 1 m end*, répéter de *-* 11 fois au total = 11 x 2 m) + (28+4) + (11 x 2) + (14+2) +1 =110 m.Bon tricot!

06.03.2019 - 15:58

Marieke Jansen wrote:

Brei size M. Nadat de mouwen op een hulpdraad zijn gezet, ga je bij een hoogte van 3 cm meerderen. Tot zo ver duidelijk, 6 x 4 steken is dus 24, opgeteld bij de 166 van het lijf kom je dan inderdaad op 190 steken. Alleen wanneer er gesplitst wordt voor de splitten, kom ik niet weer op 190 steken...maar wel op 166. Voorpanden. 2 x 42 en achterpand 82 opgeteld die 166 steken, kunnen jullie mij zeggen of ik het verkeerd lees?

17.01.2019 - 19:35

Dag Marieke,

Het klopt zoals je het leest; je meerdert in totaal 24 steken, dus van 166 naar 190 steken. En volgens mij staat er inderdaad een foutje in het patroon waardoor de meerderingen in de zijnaden niet meegenomen zijn vanaf de splitten. Je kunt de aangegeven aantallen steken negeren en het werk splitsen bij de markeerdraden.

23.01.2019 - 11:15

Ich muss doch aber irgendwo die erste Reihe, in der ich mit Wenden beginne, auch zu Ende stricken. Wo stricken ich denn Blendenmaschen?? Die Blende wird doch am Ende separat angestrickt?? Das verstehe ich schon, dass ich auch ohne Erhöhung stricken kann.

12.10.2018 - 12:54

Liebe Monika, oops Sie sind ja recht, Blendemaschen werden später aufgenommen und gestrickt, mein Fehler. Nach der Reihe über 55-70 M (= Hinreihe), stricken Sie die nächste Rückreihe bis zur Ende der Reihe (= 1 Seite ist "fertig"), dann wenden Sie und stricken Sie die nächste Hinreihe bis zur Ende = alle Maschen sind jetzt gestrickt.

12.10.2018 - 14:22

Linda H. wrote:

Just started the yoke in size small. Inserted the markers as written, but ended the row with 4 stitches not 7. Counted 3 times and have 98 stitches total. Is this a mistake in the pattern or did I miss something.

06.04.2018 - 23:14

Hi Linda, You have 98 stitches when you have finished the neck and are starting on the yoke. On the first row of the yoke you work 1 edge stitch (garter stitch) 5 stitches in stocking stitch and then insert a marker in the next stitch - so you have worked 7 stitches so far. Work 11 more stitches and insert next marker in next stitch, so now you have worked 19 stitches (7 + 12). Repeat these last 12 stitches another 6 times, so you have worked 91 stitches (7 + 12 x 7) and then you will have 7 stitches left. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

09.04.2018 - 08:21