DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Für Elise Jacket

Knitted jacket with lace pattern, small cables and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 183-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-011
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 20, peach pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 for rib - or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-8-8-9-9 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 132 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.1. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. every 9th and 10th stitch. Do not decrease over the bands. When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 10th stitch (on next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size!
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. Increase as follows:
Work as far as 1 stitch before marker thread, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stockinette stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. Repeat at each of the remaining transitions between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row).
On the next row (from wrong side) purl yarn overs so that there are holes. Then work the new stitches on the front and back pieces into the pattern A.2/A.3. The new stitches on the sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Start 5 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 10 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 10 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left at end of row, make 1 yarn over, knit together the next 2 stitches and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4''. Then work the remaining 6-6-7-7-8-8 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-7½-7½-7-7 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 7/8"-2 7/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4'' between each.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. It is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 132-137-142-147-152-157 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Flora. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib in this way - remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – see description above. When the rib measures 3 cm / 1'' knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 12-13-12-11-10-9 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 120-124-130-136-142-148 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Work 1 row from right side where you increase as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 26-28-28-31-28-31 stitches, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 4-2-5-2-10-7 times, knit 50-54-54-60-56-62 stitches, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 4-2-5-2-10-7 times, knit 26-28-28-31-28-31 stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 128-128-140-140-162-162 stitches on row. Knit 1 row from wrong side where all yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work PATTERN – see description above, from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 8-8-8-8-12-12 stitches), A.2 (= 11-11-14-14-16-16 stitches), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stockinette stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stockinette stitch on each side of the marker thread), 1 yarn over, 17 stitches stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stockinette stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stockinette stitch on each side of the marker thread), 1 yarn over, A.3 (= 11-11-14-14-16-16 stitches), A.4 (= 16-16-16-16-22-22 stitches), A.2, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stockinette stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stockinette stitch on each side of the marker thread),1 yarn over, 17 stitches stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stockinette stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stockinette stitch on each side of the marker thread), 1 yarn over, A.3, A.5 (= 8-8-8-8-12-12 stitches), 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work 1 row back in the same way (= 2nd row in diagrams), the yarn overs in each transition between body and sleeves are purled to leave holes.
The first increases to raglan are now finished (= 8 stitches increased). Continue the pattern in this way and increase to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase like this every 2nd row (= each row from the right side) a total of 26-30-31-37-38-42 times = 336-368-388-436-466-498 stitches.
NOTE: When A.2/A.3 has been completed in height, work the new increased stitches in each raglan in stockinette stitch. The pattern in A.2/A.3 continues in height as before, i.e. the last 10-10-14-14-16-16 rows in diagram A.2/A.3 are repeated in height – NOTE!: The 2-2-2-2-3-3 cables in the diagrams are worked every 4th row to finished length. When all increases are finished, work 8-10-12-6-10-6 rows of pattern as before without increasing to raglan. The piece measures approx. 22-25-26-28-30-31 cm / 8 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/4''. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work the first 51-55-59-65-72-76 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 71-79-81-93-95-103 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches mid under sleeve, work the next 92-100-108-120-132-140 stitches (= back piece), place the next 71-79-81-93-95-103 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches mid under sleeve, work the remaining 51-55-59-65-72-76 stitches (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 210-230-250-274-304-324 stitches. Insert a marker thread after 55-60-65-71-79-84 stitches in each side (= 100-110-120-132-146-156 stitches on back piece).
Continue back and forth with pattern, stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Work stockinette stitch over the new stitches cast on in each side. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' increase 2 stitches in each side (= 4 stitches increased on row) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 6th round 10 times = 250-270-290-314-344-364 stitches. When piece measures 23-22-23-23-23-24 cm / 9"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9"-9½'' change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern as before over the next 39-39-42-42-51-51 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as all purl 2 are increased to purl 3 (= 7-7-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), work the next 42-52-56-68-66-76 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 19-19-27-25-31-31 stitches evenly over these stitches, work pattern as before over the next 78-78-84-84-100-100 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as all purl 2 are increased to purl 3 (= 11-11-11-11-15-15 stitches increased), work the next 42-52-56-68-66-76 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 19-19-27-25-31-31 stitches evenly over these stitches, work pattern as before over the next 39-39-42-42-51-51 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as all purl 2 are increased to purl 3 (= 7-7-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 313-335-371-391-437-457 stitches.

Now work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work rib with (purl 3 /2 cable stitches) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, A.6 (= 23-23-27-27-29-29 stitches), work (2 cable stitches/purl 3) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, continue with (knit 2 /purl 3) over the next 67-77-87-97-97-107 stitches, work (purl 3 /2 cable stitches) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, A.7 (= 23-23-27-27-29-29 stitches), purl over purl and cable over cable over the next 19-19-19-19-27-27 stitches, A.6, work (2 cable stitches/purl 3) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, continue with (knit 2 /purl 3) over the next 67-77-87-97-97-107 stitches, work (purl 3 /2 cable stitches) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, A.7, work (2 cable stitches/ purl 3) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue in this way until the rib measures 7 cm / 2¾''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight bind-off edge you can bind off with a size larger needle.

SLEEVE:
Place the 71-79-81-93-95-103 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-89-93-105-109-119 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 4-5-6-6-7-8 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). The start of the round is mid under sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 8th-5th-5th-3rd-3rd-3rd round a total of 13-18-19-24-25-28 times = 53-53-55-57-59-63 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 38-35-35-33-31-31 cm / 15"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13"-12 1/4"-12 1/4'' (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of broader shoulders). Work 1 round where you increase 12-12-15-13-11-12 stitches evenly on round = 65-65-70-70-70-75 stitches. Work rib (knit 2 /purl 3). When the rib measures 5 cm / 2'' bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight bind-off edge you can bind off with a size larger needle. The sleeve measures 43-40-40-38-36-36 cm / 17"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4"-14 1/4''. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.12.2018
Correction - Yoke: The first increases to raglan are now finished (= 8 stitches increased). Continue the pattern in this way and increase to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase like this every 2nd row (= each row from the right side) a total of 26-30-31-37-38-42 times = 336-368-388-436-466-498 stitches

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Ginette Allen wrote:

Que signifie "Tricoter les augmentations de chaque raglan en Jersey" Est-ce que ça signifie " tricoter les jetés en maille torse" pour ne pas faire de trou?

23.11.2023 - 14:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Allen, au 1er rang (sur l'envers) après l'augmentation, on va tricoter ces jetés torse à l'envers (= on va tricoter le jeté dans le brin arrière au lieu du brin avant pour éviter un trou, cf vidéo), puis ces nouvelles mailles se tricotent simplement en jersey (à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'envers sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

23.11.2023 - 15:47

country flag Sirpa wrote:

Ohjeessa on mainonta A.2 mutta en ohjeesta löydä kyseistä malliohjetta? Mikähän noista malli ohjeista on A.2?

22.09.2023 - 08:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei piirrokset A.2 löytyvät sivun alareunasta (vasemmalla puolella).

02.10.2023 - 17:29

country flag Marianne wrote:

Bonjour, Comme Sylvie l'a déjà demandé, je ne trouve pas les diagrammes A2 et A3. Faut-il seulement tricoter les mailles en jersey?

14.07.2023 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marianne, les diagrammes A.2 et A.3 se trouvent au dessus du diagramme des mesures (choisissez le diagramme correspondant a votre taille). Si vous ne les voyez toujours pas, changez de navigateur internet. Bon tricot!

15.07.2023 - 11:42

country flag Lena wrote:

Hej! Som jag förstår mönstret så är det även mönsterstickning på ryggen? Kan man skippa mönstret på ryggen utan att det påverkar måtten? För övrigt vill jag lämna en synpunkt på fotona. Upplever att det oftast presenteras flera foton från samma vinkel. Man vill se framsida, baksida, från sidan och några inzoomade detaljer.

10.04.2023 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena, ja det bestemmer du selv. Tak for input, det tager vi med os :)

14.04.2023 - 07:49

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour \r\nJe ne trouve pas le diagramme A2 ni A3 sur le modèle

01.03.2023 - 15:38

country flag Edith wrote:

Kan man bruge garn der heder lima drops og er det en god garn at strikke den fine trøje med tak

27.07.2022 - 09:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Edith, DROPS Lima tilhører garngruppe B og er for tykt for denne opskrift. Men DROPS Flora er af samme fine kvalitet bare tyndere, så det passer til opskriften. Hvis du vil strikke i Lima kan du vælge imellem disse fine: Cardigan - raglan - Garngruppe B

04.08.2022 - 08:34

country flag Edith PEDERSEN wrote:

JEG VIL LIGE SIGE MANGE GANGE TAK FOR JERSE SPØRSMÅL SOM JEG HAR FÅET FRA JER OG JEG VIL UNDSKYLDE ALLE DE SPØRSMÅL JER HSR SENDT FOR DET VAR MIG SELV DER IKKE HAR TALT RIGTIG I MØNSTERET UNDSKYLD HILSEN EDITH

06.04.2022 - 19:36

country flag Edith PEDERSEN wrote:

Jeg strikke str l-xl i 3 rakke hvor der tages en maske løs maske af og tag en maske over i 5 rækker mønster nr 183-22 hilsen edith

04.04.2022 - 15:43

country flag Edith wrote:

Jer syntes at der er en maske for meget i 4 rækker

04.04.2022 - 14:56

country flag EDITH PEDERSEN wrote:

Er der fejl i denne opskrift da jeg ikke få fejre række i mønstret til at passe opskriften er 183-22 på forhånd TAK

03.04.2022 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Edith, nej det skal det ikke være. Hvilken størrelse strikker du, hvor mange masker har du og hvor er du i opskriften, så skal vi prøve at hjælpe dig :)

04.04.2022 - 11:21