DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Telegram Jacket

Knitted jacket with multi-coloured pattern and raglan. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 184-22
DROPS design: Pattern u-818
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour no 01, off white
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 05, black

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS METAL BUTTON (uneven), NO 534: 8-8-8-9-9-9 pieces
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

KNITTING TIP-2 (applies to yoke on jacket):
If knitting tension is incorrect in height and there are more rows vertically on 10 cm than stated in pattern the yoke will be too short and the armhole too small. This can be compensated by working 1 extra row in stocking stitch evenly on yoke.

DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 272 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 44) = 6.1. In this example work approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). On next row work yarn over twisted It should not make a hole.

RAGLAN:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease for raglan on each side of every A.6 as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after A.6 as follows: Slip last stitch in A.6, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before A.6 as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before A.6, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). I.e. decrease 2 stitches at every A.6 and 8 stitches in total on row.

BUTTONHOLES (applies to right band):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band.
When band measures approx. 1.5 cm, decrease for 8-8-8-9-9-9 buttonholes evenly (decrease for buttonholes in purl sections seen from right side). 1 buttonhole = purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over – top buttonhole should be approx. 2 cm from the top, the other buttonholes should be approx. 7-8 cm apart.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Sleeves are work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed. Join the parts together and work yoke back and forth. Work band back and forth at the end.

BODY:
Cast on 276-288-320-332-372-388 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm with black. Work as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2), until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 5 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 39-45-53-47-57-55 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 237-243-267-285-315-333 stitches.
Work 1 row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 60-60-66-72-78-84 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, and work this stitch in stocking stitch, work 113-119-131-137-155-161 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, and work this stitch in stocking stitch, work 60-60-66-72-78-84 stitches in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= front piece). Markers shows sides of garment.
Then work next row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in base colour in pattern, A.1 (= 6 stitches) until 2 stitches remain (= 39-40-44-47-52-55 times in width), and finish with A.2 over next stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch - read KNITTING TIP-1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a and A.2a vertically.
When piece measures 39-41-40-42-41-43 cm, work A.3 over A.1 and A.4 over A.2. When you have worked up to arrow in A.3, work next row in A.3 as follows: Work the first 58-58-64-70-76-82 stitches as before, cast off 3 stitches before marker and 4 stitches after marker (= 7 stitches in total), work the next 107-113-125-131-149-155 stitches as before, cast off 3 stitches before marker and 4 stitches after marker (= 7 stitches), work the last 58-58-64-70-76-82 stitches as before. Piece measures approx. 44-44-44-45-45-45 cm. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed. Cast on 48-52-56-60-64-64 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). When piece measures 5 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking stitch while decreasing 6-8-8-10-12-10 stitches evenly = 42-44-48-50-52-54 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 1 round with black, then work next round as follows: Work 0-1-0-1-2-0 stitches A.5, work A.1 over the next 42-42-48-48-48-54 stitches (= 7-7-8-8-8-9 repetitions), finish with 0-1-0-1-2-0 stitches A.5. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a. When piece measures 6 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 12-14-15-17-19-21 times in total = 66-72-78-84-90-96 stitches. Work stitches in A.5 and the increased stitches in the pattern. When piece measures 38-39-37-37-34-35 cm, work A.3 over A.1. When all stitches under sleeve have been increased, work A.3 11-12-13-14-15-16 times in total in width. When you have worked up to arrow in A.3, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 43-42-41-40-38-37 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 341-359-395-425-467-497 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread between every transition between each sleeve and body before continuing. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until 2 stitches remain before marker thread between sleeve and body, A.6 over the next 2 stitches (= front piece), work pattern over the 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches (= sleeve), A.6 over the next 2 stitches, work pattern over the next 103-109-121-127-145-151 stitches as before, A.6 over the next 2 stitches (= back piece), work pattern over the next 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches (= sleeve), A.6 over the next 2 stitches, pattern as before until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch – read KNITTING TIP-2. Continue pattern like this and decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above, every other row 26-29-31-33-36-39 times in total = 133-127-147-161-179-185 stitches. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to black. Work 1 row with black. Yoke measures approx. 19-21-23-24-26-28 cm.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back. Work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the neck edge if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on needle (= mid back).
Knit 30-30-34-34-40-40 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60-60-68-68-80-80. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 54-54-61-61-72-72, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48-48-54-54-64-64. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 42-42-48-48-56-56, turn, tighten yarn and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32, turn, tighten yarn and work the rest of row.

NECK EDGE:
On next row from right side decrease as follows: Knit 27-24-29-34-37-40 and decrease 3-0-4-6-9-10 stitches evenly, work the next 18 stitches together 2 by 2 (= 9 stitches decreased), knit 44-44-54-58-70-70 and decrease 5-0-8-10-18-18 stitches evenly, work the next 18 stitches together 2 by 2 (= 9 stitches decreased), knit the last 26-23-28-33-36-39 and decrease 3-1-5-7-10-11 stitches evenly = 104-108-112-120-124-128 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work next row as follows: Knit 1, * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 1 *, work from *-* until 3-7-11-19-3-7 stitches remain, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 124-128-132-140-148-152 stitches. Work yarn overs twisted in rib (i.e. knit 2/purl 2) on next row to avoid holes. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND:
Work band back and forth on circular needle size 3 mm with black.
Pick up 174-210 stitches (number of stitches must be divisible by 4 + 2) on circular needle size 3 mm with black inside 1 edge stitch from right side. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Work rib (= purl 2/knit 2) until 2 stitches remain, finish with knit 2. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until rib measures 3 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left band but decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening under each sleeve in front loop of outermost stiches. Sew on buttons on left band.

Diagram

symbols = black
symbols = off white
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour, dernière étape! Je ne saisi pas la méthode des boutonnières ? Comment procede t on ? Merci 🙏

28.02.2024 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, pour former 1 boutonnière dans les sections 2 mailles envers des côtes, on va tricoter 2 mailles ensemble à l'envers, et faire 1 jeté, au rang suivant, on tricote le jeté à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

29.02.2024 - 08:05

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour ! Suis rendu au col , après mon premier rang , l envers je tricote normal pour revenir à l endroit pour continuer avec l aiguille circulaire 3 ? Autrement dit je tricote le rang comme indiqué et à l envers je tricote comme elle se présente c est ça ? Les rangs entre les *** et répétez? Ai-je bien saisi ? Merci 🙏

26.02.2024 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, effectivement vous pouvez tricoter 1 rang envers sur l'envers avant de tricoter les côtes en les commençant sur l'endroit. Après le 1er rang des côtes, tricotez simplement en côtes 2 mailles endroit/2 mailles envers (= tricotez les mailles comme elles se présentent, on n'augmente qu'au 1er rang). Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 14:11

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour, suis rendu à l empiècement, si je comprends bien je tricote les mailles du début du devant jusqu’à l emmanchure, là je mets un fil marqueur et je tricote les mailles de la manche et au bout je tricote les mailles du dos etc alors la manche est en rond je saisi pas comment procéder pour empiécer manche avec le devant etc,, ? Merci 🙏

18.02.2024 - 16:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, c'est bien ainsi que l'on doit faire, dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment mettre les manches entre le devant et le dos; les premiers rangs sont parfois un peu plus difficile, vous pouvez vous aider d'une autre aiguille circulaire ou bien utiliser la technique du magic loop, après quelques rangs ce sera plus simple de nouveau. Bon tricot!

19.02.2024 - 09:30

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour ! Encore moi ! Je comprends votre diagramme mais au moment qu on augmente on tricote ces mailles en noir ou blanc car ça suit pas du diagramme 😢comment je procède pour le suivi des motifs ? Merci 🙏

13.02.2024 - 00:56

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour ! Lorsqu on fait les augmentations des manches , on procède comment pour suivre le diagramme, la maille augmenter devient elle le diagramme A5 ou quoi ? Merci 🙏

12.02.2024 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, tricotez les augmentations en suivant A.5, vous pouvez progressivement les incorporer dans A.1 si vous le souhaitez ou comme dans A.5 tout simplement. Bon tricot!

13.02.2024 - 08:24

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour ! Suite à votre réponse concernant les augmentations des manches , ça veut dire qu au bout de 6 cm, je commence à tricoter les augmentations et le diagramme en rond sur 4 aiguilles? Et qu en est-il pour suivre le diagramme des mailles qu on augmente ? Merci 🙏

12.02.2024 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, pour les manches, tricotez d'abord 5 cm de côtes puis 1 tour avec les aiguilles 4 en diminuant comme indiqué, tricotez ensuite 1 tour en noir et commencez les diagrammes. En même temps, quand la manche mesure 6 cm, commencez à augmenter et incorporez les augmentations au motif. Bon tricot!

13.02.2024 - 08:20

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour ! Pour les augmentations de la manche , vous dites après 6 cm, de l ouvrage , on commence les augmentations, alors à partir du début du poignet qu on mesure? On se trouve alors sur le diagramme A1.c est ça ? Et le fil marqueur se trouve au bout de l aiguille ? C est ça ? Merci 🙏

12.02.2024 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, mesurez les 6 cm à partir du rang de montage. Le marqueur du début du tour doit être au niveau de la jonction, autrement dit entre la fin du tour et le début du tour suivant. Tricotez les nouvelles mailles en suivant A.1/.A5. Bon tricot!

13.02.2024 - 08:18

country flag Gaetane Bouchard wrote:

Bonjour ! je saisi pas concernant vos augmentations de chaque cote de la manche ? en étant sur endroit au bout du rang je fait un jeté avant les 2 dernieres mailles et la j ai on fil marqueur ok je me trouve maintenant a etre sur l envers alrs je tricote 2 mailles et la est ce que je fais un jeté ? ainsi de suite est ca? merci

11.02.2024 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bouchard, les manches se tricotent en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes, vous allez augmenter 1 maille à la fin du tour + 1 maille au début du tour ainsi: tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles avant le fil marqueur, faites 1 jeté, tricotez les 2 mailles suivantes (la dernière maille du tour + la 1ère maille du tour suivant), faites 1 jeté; au tour suivant, tricotez les jetés torse à l'endroit pour éviter des trous. Bon tricot!

12.02.2024 - 09:02

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour, lorsqu’on est rendu à un autre diagramme l on commence tu a l endroit où selon qu on a fini l autre diagramme? Exemple: après avoir fini en hauteur celui de A1 je me trouve être à l envers , alors est-ce que je commence A3 à l envers ? Ou je fait un autre rang à l envers pour commencer le A3 à l endroit ? Merci 🙏

09.02.2024 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, dans ce cas vous allez effectivement tricoter le 1er rang de A.3 sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

12.02.2024 - 07:05

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour! Suite à votre réponse concernant le diagramme , la 1ère ligne en noir et rendu sur l envers je prends la 2 iemes ligne de gauche en blanc et je recommence ainsi ? Alors pour le fil qui suit pas je coupe ? Je saisi pas ça ! Surtout les 1ère ligne sans motif ? Merci !

01.02.2024 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, vous pouvez soit couper le fil soit tricoter le rang du côté où se trouve le fil, autrement dit, vous pouvez par ex tricoter (A.1) 1 rang sur l'endroit en noir, 1 rang sur l'endroit en naturel, 1 rang sur l'envers en noir, 1 rang sur l'envers en naturel, puis continuer sur l'endroit avec la suite du diagramme. Bon tricot!

01.02.2024 - 15:48