DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Night Shade

Set consists of: Jumper with round yoke and multi-coloured Norwegian pattern, worked top down. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Size: S - XXXL Set is knitted in DROPS Air.

DROPS 184-26
DROPS design: Pattern ai-079
Yarn group C or A + A
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For entire set use approx. 350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 06 (black), and 50 g colour 03 (pearl grey), 04 (medium grey) and 10 (fog) – in DROPS Air.
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JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 06, black
50 g for all sizes in each of the following colours:
colour 03, pearl grey
colour 04, medium grey
colour 10, fog

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm for rib – or size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g colour 06, black (35 g)
50 g colour 03, pearl grey (7 g)
50 g colour 04, medium grey (7 g)
50 g colour 10, fog (2 g)
No in (-) shows approx. how many grams are used of each colour if left-over yarn is used.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 mm for rib – or size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (applies to jumper):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases/increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 8. In this example knit approx. every 7th and 8th stitch together. When increasing make 1 yarn over after every approx. 8th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
Hat: See diagram A.4.
Choose correct diagram for your size (applies to A.1). Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

ELEVATION (applies to back of neck):
Begin from wrong side with black and purl until 7-8-8-9-9-10 stitches have been worked past marker thread at beginning of round, turn, tighten yarn and knit 14-16-16-18-18-20. Turn, tighten yarn and purl 21-24-24-27-27-30, turn, tighten yarn and knit 28-32-32-36-36-40. Turn, tighten yarn and purl 35-40-40-45-45-50, turn, tighten yarn and knit 42-48-48-54-54-60. Turn and purl back to beginning of round.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve on jumper):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to rib on jumper):
Increase 1 stitch in every purl section as follows: Purl 2, pick up loop before next stitch and purl twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to hat):
Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Beginning of round is mid back. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 88-96-100-108-112-120 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Black. Knit 1 round. Then work rib = knit 2/purl 2. Continue rib like this. When rib measures 3 cm, knit 1 round while at the same time decreasing 10-12-10-12-10-12 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 78-84-90-96-102-108 stitches. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round. For better fit work an ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above.
When elevation is done, work next round as follows: Work A.1 in the round (choose diagram for your size) = 13-14-15-16-17-18 repetitions of 6 stitches)).
Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagram.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked, there are 234-252-270-304-323-342 stitches on round and piece measures approx. 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm measured mid back from cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round with black while increasing 2-8-6-0-9-14 stitches evenly = 236-260-276-304-332-356 stitches. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work as before with black over the first 35-38-40-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 48-54-58-64-68-72 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the next 70-76-80-88-98-106 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 48-54-58-64-68-72 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the remaining 35-38-40-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 152-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. Now work A.2 in the round on round (= 38-41-44-48-54-59 repetitions of 4 stitches). On round marked with arrow-1 in diagram decrease 4 stitches evenly = 148-160-172-188-212-232 stitches. When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 the same way. Repeat A.3 until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow-2 in diagram decrease 8 stitches evenly = 140-152-164-180-204-224 stitches. Then increase 6 stitches evenly on each of the rows marked with arrow-3, arrow-4, arrow-5 and arrow-6 – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 164-176-188-204-228-248 stitches. When piece measures 39 cm from division, purl 1 round with black while increasing 52-56-60-68-76-80 stitches evenly = 216-232-248-272-304-328 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2. When rib measures 4 cm, increase all purl 2 to purl 3 - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 270-290-310-340-380-410 stitches. When rib measures 8 cm (the entire jacket measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm from shoulder), cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 48-54-58-64-68-72 stitches from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches mid under sleeve = 54-60-66-72-78-84 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards when working. Work A.2 in the round and decrease at the same time 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly on first round = 52-60-64-72-76-84 stitches on needle and 13-15-16-18-19-21 repetitions of 4 stitches). When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work piece in stocking stitch with black until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1.
Decrease 7-11-12-16-17-20 times in total as follows:
S: On every 10th round.
M: On every 6th round.
L: On every 5th round.
XL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round.
XXL: On every 3rd round.
XXXL: Alternately on every 2nd and 3rd round.
When all decrease are done, 38-38-40-40-42-44 stitches remain - NOTE: When decreasing, the pattern will not fit mid under sleeve, but make sure that the dots in A.3 are directly above each other on the rest of the sleeve). When piece measures 36-34-32-30-29-27 cm from marker thread (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-60 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 8 cm. On next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 60-60-65-65-70-75 stitches (this is done to avoid a tight sleeve edge). Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve now measures approx. 44-42-40-38-37-35 cm from marker. Work another sleeve the same way.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Cast on 96 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with black. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 12 stitches evenly (knit every 7th and 8th stitch together) = 84 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and A.4 in the round (= 7 repetitions of 12 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.4 has been worked, piece measures approx. 17 cm. Continue in stocking stitch with black. When piece measures 19 cm, insert 6 marker threads in the piece, 14 stitches apart each marker thread. Continue with stocking stitch and decrease 1 stitch at every marker thread – Read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 6 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other round 3 times in total and then on every round 3 times in total = 48 stitches remain on needle.
* On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2, knit 1 round without decrease *, work from *-* one more time = 12 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24 cm from top and down.

Diagram

symbols = black
symbols = pearl grey
symbols = medium grey
symbols = fog
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with base colour in pattern stripe, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = decrease/increase round - see explanation in pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Night Shade

Hilli, Israel

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Sabine wrote:

Vielen, vielen Dank für diese leicht verständliche Anleitung. Den Night Shade habe ich in nur 10 Tagen (ich arbeite nicht mehr) in Größe L (ich habe eine 38/40 Figur) gestrickt und er passt perfekt. Und das, nachdem ich Jahrzehnte lang nur Accessoires und Socken gestrickt habe. Aus der restlichen Wolle habe ich noch die passende Mütze und gefilzte Fäustlinge gefertigt.

08.02.2022 - 16:23

country flag Liesbeth Van Besouw wrote:

Bij de mouw staat dat telpatroon A2 gevolgd moet worden, maar ik heb geen idee waar A2 te vinden is! HELP!!

05.10.2020 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesbeth,

Deze staat inderdaad een beetje 'verstopt', namelijk onder de mouw van de maattekening onderaan het patroon.

10.10.2020 - 11:23

Ekaterina wrote:

Im Deutschen scheint dieser Satz nicht komplett zu sein: "96 Maschen auf Rundnadel Nr. 4 mit schwarz anschlagen (= 2 Maschen rechts / 2 Maschen links)." Es sollte vielleicht wie folgt sein: "96 Maschen auf Rundnadel Nr. 4 mit schwarz anschlagen. Dann im Rippenmuster (= 2 Maschen rechts / 2 Maschen links) stricken."

21.01.2018 - 09:17

Ekaterina wrote:

Im Deutschen "Bei einer Länge des Rippenmusters in jeder Linksrippe 1 Masche zunehmen" ist die Laenge des Rippenmusters nicht angegeben. Im Englischen steht es 4 cm.

18.01.2018 - 05:32

Ekaterina wrote:

"300-350-350-400-450-500 g Farbe 06, sort" - sollte eher nicht "sort", sondern "schwarz" sein :)

18.01.2018 - 05:12

country flag Helle Gottenborg wrote:

Har netop set denne opskrift og er helt vild med den 😊 Blot en servicemeddelelse: Kan se, at I under DIAGRAM har glemt at lave tegn for farverne perlegrå og mellemgrå. Sort og tåge er ok. Kan dog godt selv “regne det ud”, så jeg skal i gang 😉 De bedste hilsener og en god dag til jer

08.11.2017 - 09:26