DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Siberia

Men’s knitted sweater with cables. Sizes 13/14 years – XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS 185-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-124
Yarn group B
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Sizes:
13/14 years - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-750-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

SWEATER– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The sleeve is worked upwards, continued onto the shoulder and along the neck, top back. The neck-stitches at the top of the sleeve are decreased towards the front piece and a small section of the sleeve is continued along the top of the back piece and later sewn together mid-back, so the neck is higher at the back than at the front – see Fig.1.


RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 218 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 21.8. In this example, increase alternately after approx. every 21st and 22nd stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If you are decreasing (in this example) knit together alternately approx. every 20th and 21st stitch and every 21st and 22nd stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sides in body and sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these two stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The new stitches are subsequently worked in stockinette stitch.

BINDING OFF TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch at the same time as binding off as follows: Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch, pass over (bind off)
(= 1 extra stitch decreased).
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SWEATER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes, then the front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles as far as the armholes, then the sleeves are worked back and forth. To finish, the sleeves are sewn into the armhole and shoulders on front and back pieces.

BODY:
Cast on 218-230-246-264-280-298-314 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above! Then work rib (knit 1 /purl 1). When the piece measures 5 cm / 2'' work 1 ridge, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 10-10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly on the first round – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP= 228-240-256-276-292-312-328 stitches. Insert 2 markers in the piece, one at the beginning of the round and one after 114-120-128-138-146-156-164 stitches (= in each side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work PATTERN as follows – see description above: * Work 20-23-27-27-31-31-35 stitches stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 22 stitches), A.2 (= 10 stitches) over the next 30-30-30-40-40-50-50 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5-5 repeats in width), A.3 (= 22 stitches), 20-23-27-27-31-31-35 stitches stockinette stitch, the marker sits here *, work from *-* 1 more time. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue the pattern in this way. When the piece measures 9 cm / 3½'' increase 1 stitch on both sides of the markers in each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6-8-8-9-9-9-10 cm / 4'' a total of 5 times = 248-260-276-296-312-332-348 stitches. When the piece measures 38-47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½'' bind off 6 stitches for the armhole in each side (bind off 3 stitches on both side of the markers in each side) and continue each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 118-124-132-142-150-160-168 stitches. The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. Continue with pattern, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side, AT THE SAME TIME continue to bind off for armhole at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 3-3-4-4-4-4-5 times and 1 stitch 1-0-1-1-2-2-2 times = 104-112-114-124-130-140-144 stitches. When the piece measures 49-59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' bind off, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 20-20-20-22-18-24-24 stitches evenly over the stitches in diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3 – read BINDING OFF TIP.

FRONT PIECE:
= 118-124-132-142-150-160-168 stitches. Continue with pattern, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as bind off for armhole as for back piece = 104-112-114-124-130-140-144 stitches. When the piece measures 46-56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' decrease 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches evenly over the middle 40-40-40-48-48-48-48 stitches before these stitches are placed on a thread for the neck (= 30-30-30-36-36-36-36 stitches on thread). The shoulders are now finished separately. On the next row from the neck bind off 2 stitches = 30-34-35-36-39-44-46 stitches.
When the piece measures 49-59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' (adjust to match the back piece) bind off, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 5-5-4-5-3-6-6 stitches evenly over the 15-15-15-16-16-21-21 stitches towards the neck – remember BINDING OFF TIP.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 ridges. Then work rib (= knit 1 /purl 1) until the piece measures 10 cm / 4''. Work 1 ridge, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 5 stitches evenly on row = 51-53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern on the next round as follows: Stockinette stitch over the first 4-5-6-7-8-9-10 stitches, work A.4 over the next 42 stitches, work the first stitch in A.4, 4-5-6-7-8-9-10 stitches stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern upwards. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 13-12-13-12-12-14-13 cm / 5"-4 3/4"-5"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5½"-5'' increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – remember INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way every 2-2½-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 3/4"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½'' a total of 14-15-16-17-18-19-20 times = 79-83-87-91-95-99-103 stitches. When the piece measures 45-50-50-49-49-48-48 cm / 19¾''-19¾''-19¼''-19¼''-19''-19'' bind off 6 stitches mid under the sleeve (bind off 3 stitches on each side of the marker). Then work back and forth on the needle AT THE SAME TIME as you bind off for sleeve cap at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 2-4-6-7-9-10-12 times and 1 stitch 12-10-8-8-6-6-4 times = 41 stitches left in all sizes. The piece measures 55-60-60-60-60-60-60 cm / 21½"-23½"-23½"-23½"-23½"-23½''. NOW YOU MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with pattern over the remaining stitches until the piece measures 12-14-13-15-17-18-19 cm / 4 3/4"-5½"-5"-6"-6 3/7"-7"-7½''. Then you bind off at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: 19 stitches 1 time AT THE SAME TIME as 8 of these 19 stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 before they are bind off, 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time. Work 3 rows without decreases. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row = 16 stitches left in all sizes. Continue working until the piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-27-28 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-10½"-11''. The whole sleeve measures approx. 74-81-82-84-86-87-88 cm / 29"-32"-32 1/4"-33"-34"-34 1/4"-34½''.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Worked as for right sleeve, but decreases at top are worked in opposite side, i.e. at the beginning of every row from the wrong side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeves together mid back inside the bind off edge of each sleeve. Sew the sleeves to front and back piece on body in the outermost stitch as follows: Sew from the armhole and up along shoulder on back piece to mid back. Repeat on the other side. Sew in that same way from armhole and up along shoulder to the neck on the front piece. Repeat on the other side.

NECKLINE:
Knit up 94-94-108-108-108-108-108 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread) with short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase on the last round 22-22-26-26-26-26-26 stitches evenly = 116-116-134-134-134-134-134 stitches. Then work rib (= knit 1 /purl 1). When the rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' work 1 ridge. Bind off. Fold the neck double and fasten on the inside, ridge to ridge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.10.2017
No correction, but chart A.1 and A.3 are simplified + there is added an additional line under the BODY:(= ... REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue the pattern and repeat the charts in height. When the piece measures 9 cm/3 1/2"...).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit stitch from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, purl stitch from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 185-2

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Comments / Questions (144)

country flag Jean-Sébastien wrote:

Bonjour, lorsqu’on rabat le haut de manches, on dit de rabattre 19 mailles dont 8 de ces mailles ensemble. Ma question: est-ce qu’on fait 4 diminutions = 8 mailles ou 8 diminutions?

23.02.2021 - 19:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jean-Sébastien, on va diminuer 4 mailles (= on tricote 8 fois 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit), mais le nombre total de mailles diminuées/rabattues doit être de 19 (= il restera 22 m sur l'aiguille). Bon tricot!

24.02.2021 - 07:23

country flag Francoise wrote:

Bonjour, Je commence ce modèle. J'ai fini les côtes et 1er rang du devant, c'est à dire les 3 diagrammes sur 120 mailles (taille S). Les explications qui suivent sont : "répéter de *-* encore 1 fois" Est ce que cela signifie que le dos est tricoté avec les mêmes diagrammes ? (J'imaginais que tout le dos était en jersey simple...) Aucune photo du dos n'est présentée. Je préfère vous questionner.

07.02.2021 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, tout fait, vous répétez la séquence indiquée entre les * pour tricoter la 2ème partie du pull, le devant et le dos sont ici identiques. Bon tricot!

08.02.2021 - 11:31

country flag KerstinOlsson wrote:

Hej Jag behöver förtydligande av avmaskning av ärmen. När 19 maskor ska avmaskas, ska de första 16 stickas ihop = 8 maskor kvar, därefter ytterligare 3. Tack på förhand

21.01.2021 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kerstin, ja när du maskar av de 19 maskor, sticka ihop 2, maska av, maska av nästa, sticka ihop 2, maska av osv. Se video: Hur man maskar av samtidigt som man minskar maskor Lycka till

27.01.2021 - 14:46

country flag Giulia wrote:

Sempre in merito alla manica: si ho controllato il mio campione. Parto da 50 cm, lavoro 2diminuzioni 6 volte, 1 per 8 volte. In totale 14 ferri. 14 ferri 5cm (circa 5cm)- il campione parla di 30 ferri paro a 10cm- e quindi non arrivo a 60 cm :( cosa posso fare?

04.01.2021 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giulia, deve intrecciare le maglie all'inizio di ogni ferro, quindi sia dal diritto che dal rovescio del lavoro, per cui i ferri che lavorerà saranno di più. Buon lavoro!

05.01.2021 - 11:14

country flag Lynda Shevkenek wrote:

I am having trouble working cable pattern B. It is suppose to be in multiples of 10 stitches over a total of 50 stitches. The problem is rows 5,7, 9, 13,15, and 17 contain only 9 stitches in the pattern. I have tried several times to knit according to the written instructions but the cables do not immerge as shown on the photo. I am an experienced knitter but, try as I might, I can't figure how to correct the problem.

04.01.2021 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Shevkenek, I'm not sure to understand properly your question sorry in advance. Are you talking about diagram A.2? This diagram with cables is worked over 10 sts as shown in diagram, Work row 5 as follows: purl 2, place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, purl stitch from cable needle, then place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle, purl 2 (= still 10 sts). Hope this can help. Happy knitting

05.01.2021 - 11:12

country flag Giulia wrote:

Per la manica taglia m, al punto: "Proseguire avanti e indietro sul ferro e, ALLO STESSO TEMPO, intrecciare per la parte in alto della manica all’inizio di ogni ferro da ciascun lato, come segue: 2 maglie 2-4-6-7-9-10-12 volte e 1 maglia 12-10-8-8-6-6-4 volte = rimangono 41 maglie per tutte le taglie. Il lavoro misura 55-60-60-60-60-60-60 cm. Il lavoro misura solo 55cm e non 60. Devo lavorare fino a 60 cm senza diminuzioni?

04.01.2021 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giulia, ha controllato che il suo campione corrispondesse a quello indicato prima di iniziare a lavorare? Buon lavoro!

04.01.2021 - 18:23

country flag Heli wrote:

Jag har en fråga beträffande avslutning av maskor med att sticka två ihop. Skall detta göras alltid med denna modell eller bara om man har stickat mönstren A1, A2 och A3 på mitten. Jag håller på att sticka en tröja utan mittflätor. Skall jag alltså även i detta fall avsluta maskorna med att samtidigt sticka en del ihop.

30.12.2020 - 08:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heli, Nej det är bara om du har stickat flätor du skall sticka ihop två när du maskar av. Lycka till :)

14.01.2021 - 12:57

country flag Stefanie C wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team! Ich habe ein Problem mit der Abnahme der 19 Maschen beim Ärmel --> hier heißt es, 8 Maschen davon sollen vor dem Abketten paarweise zusammengestrickt werden... Heißt das, es sollen 8x je 2 Maschen zusammengestrickt werden vor dem Abketten (also 8 Abnahmen ), oder sollen INSGESAMT nur 8 Maschen von den 19 zusammengestrickt werden (also 4 Maschen weniger) ? Über eine Rückmeldung würde ich mich sehr freuen! Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße!

23.12.2020 - 14:14

country flag Laurence wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai suivi le diagramme mais le motif des torsades apparait sur l'envers de l'ouvrage, et la partie tricotée en jersey endroit est en jersey envers. Bref, je ne comprends pas. Le diagramme est-il conçu pour un tricot en rond ? Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement, Laurence

16.12.2020 - 10:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laurence, les diagrammes seront tricotées d'abord en rond puis en rangs - le pull se tricote d'abord en rond jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis en allers et retours à partir des emmanchures. Lorsque vous divisez l'ouvrage pour terminer le dos et le devant séparément, veillez à bien continuer de tricoter soit sur l'endroit/soit sur l'envers pour que les torsades se retrouvent bien sur l'endroit et non sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

16.12.2020 - 13:58

country flag Sylvie Jonckheere wrote:

Bonjour,je ne comprends pas vos explications pour terminer le dos est ce qu on rabat en une fois?

07.12.2020 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jonckheere, pour conserver la bonne largeur quand on rabat les mailles du dos, on va diminuer les mailles des torsades en les rabattant - cf ASTUCE POUR RABATTRE - cette vidéo montre comment faire. Bon tricot!

07.12.2020 - 15:56