DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Dalvik

The set consists of: Men’s knitted jumper with raglan, round yoke and multi-coloured Nordic pattern and knitted hat with multi-coloured Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 185-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-845
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
For the whole set there will be enough with:
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 21, medium grey,
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour 16, dark grey,
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, black,
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white,
50 g for all sizes in colour 72, light pearl grey.
-----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 21, medium grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 16, dark grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, black
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 72, light pearl grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Sizes: S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: 57/59 - 59/61 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g for both sizes in all colours:
colour 01, off white
colour 72, light pearl grey
colour 21, medium grey
colour 16, dark grey
colour 05, black

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 MM - or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Karisma 69, 50, 56, 01, 55.
B) DROPS Karisma 55, 52, 56, 01, 77.
-------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 230 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increase to be made (e.g. 46) = 5. In this example, when decreasing knit every 4th and 5th stitch together. If you are increasing, make 1 yarn over after every 5th stitch, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of the marker in each transition between body and sleeves. Start 2 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, marker sits here, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.2.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern with more than one colour, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece do not pull. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 230-252-270-300-332-362 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and medium grey. Work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 7 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 46-50-50-60-70-72 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 184-202-220-240-262-290 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue with stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the next round, insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 92-101-110-120-131-145 stitches (= in the sides). Now increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased on the round). Increase in each side every 22nd-23rd-24th-24th-28th-28th round a total of 4 times = 200-218-236-256-278-306 stitches. When the piece measures 35-36-37-37-39-40 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches in each side for the armholes (i.e. cast off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of both markers) = 92-101-108-118-127-139 stitches left on the front and back pieces. Lay the piece to one side and work sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 66-66-76-76-76-84 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and medium grey. Work rib (knit 1 /purl 1) for 5 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 18-18-22-22-22-24 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-54-54-54-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6-7-9-7-6-10 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every10th-8th-9th-8th-7th-6th round a total of 12-14-12-14-16-16 times = 72-76-78-82-86-92 stitches. When the piece measures 49-48-48-46-47-46 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder measurements), cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve = 64-68-68-72-74-78 stitches left on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work one more sleeve.

YOKE
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you cast off stitches for the armholes = 312-338-352-380-402-434 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 markers). Work stocking stitch with medium grey. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 2-2-3-3-3-3 times = 296-322-328-356-378-410 stitches. After the last round of decreases, knit 1 round where you decrease 24-34-24-32-36-32 stitches evenly on round = 272-288-304-324-342-378 stitches left on needle. Continue by working pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 17-18-19-18-19-21 repeats on the round). Read KNITTING TIP! Continue pattern in this way and decrease as shown in the diagram. When A.1 has been completed (finish after a round marked with an arrow in the diagram for your size) there are 119-126-133-126-133-147 stitches left on the needle and the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Now you can work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working neckline if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
For a better fit you can work an elevation in the back of the neck with dark grey. Insert 1 marker mid back of neck. Knit 14-15-16-15-16-18 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 28-30-32-30-32-36 stitches back. Turn and knit 42-45-48-45-48-54 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 56-60-64-60-64-72 stitches back. Turn and knit 70-75-80-75-80-90 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 84-90-96-90-96-108 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back.

NECKLINE:
Knit 1 round with dark grey where you decrease 25-30-35-26-29-39 stitches evenly on round = 94-96-98-100-104-108 stitches around the neck. Change to short circular needle size 3 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round, increase 22-22-24-26-26-26 stitches evenly on round = 116-118-122-126-130-134 stitches. Continue working rib (knit 1 /purl 1). When the rib measures 8 cm work 1 ridge. Loosely cast off – Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight! Fold the collar double and fasten on the inside, ridge to ridge.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
The hat is worked in the round with circular needle. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Cast on 132-154 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and dark grey. Work rib (knit 1 /purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 round AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 24-34 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 108-120 stitches. Work A.2 (= 9-10 repeats of 12 stitches) – read KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been completed continue working with medium grey to finished length. When the piece measures 17-18 cm decrease 8-0 stitches evenly on round and at the same time insert 10 markers in the piece with 10-12 stitches between each marker = 100-120 stitches. On the next round decrease 1 stitch after each marker by knitting 2 stitches together (= 10 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 9-11 times = 10-10 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 24-26 cm in height.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.06.2018
the first and last round of diagram A.2 has been corrected to dark grey
Updated online: 05.12.2019
A.1 S + M + L: row 39, 53, 54.
A.1 XL + XXL + XXXL: row 47, 61, 62.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = light pearl grey
symbols = medium grey
symbols = dark grey
symbols = black
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Dalvik

Justyna, Poland

Dalvik

Andreas Spiliotopoulos, Greece

Dalvik

Mari, Finland

Dalvik

Katie, United States

Pullover Dalvik sweater

Sonja, Germany

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 185-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (87)

country flag Anne Jørgensen wrote:

Kan man ikke bare slå 236 masker op og strikke 37 cm

22.08.2021 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne. Se svar under. Mvh DROPS Design

24.08.2021 - 13:18

country flag Anne Jørgensen wrote:

Hvad er formålet med at slå 270 masker op og så på første pind efter rib at tage 50 masker ind ? Kan man ikke bare slå 236 op og så strikke de 37 cm op ?

22.08.2021 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne. Ribkanten er mere elastisk og vil trække sig lidt sammen i forhold til det glatstrikkede. Ved at tage ind efter ribben, så undgår du en for stor forskel mellem krop og kant. Mvh DROPS Design

24.08.2021 - 13:17

country flag Marianne wrote:

Jag har stickat tröjan Dalvik i båda färgkombinationerna. Om jag istället vill göra den i gröna nyanser i Karisma, vad har ni då för förslag?

03.08.2021 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, Fråga gärna din DROPS butik, de är superbra på att sätta ihop färger i DROPS Karisma :)

04.08.2021 - 08:29

country flag Anja Bråthen Sture wrote:

Hei. Jeg strikker til en som er 197cm høy. Hvordan vet jeg at den blir lang nok uten å måle den. Han er ikke her så jeg kan prøvemåle. Jeg strikker xxl Har lagte til 5 cm på bolen og 3 cm på ermene. Jeg strikker modell u-845

08.06.2021 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anja. Det bästa är om du kan be han måle en genser han redan har hemma. Mvh DROPS Design

10.06.2021 - 09:26

country flag Melinda wrote:

Hei. Hvor er begynnelsen av omgangen etter at jeg setter ermene på samme rundpinne som bolen?

16.05.2021 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Melinda, de fleste vælger at lade omgangen starte og skifte farve midt på ryggen. God fornøjelse!

17.05.2021 - 11:24

country flag Sylviane wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne trouve nulle part comment rattraper le décalage dans du jacquard , quand il y a plus q’un rang avec le même ton ça va mais quand le ton change à chaque rang? Merci pour votre réponse

13.05.2021 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylviane, il n'y a pas vraiment d'astuce pour éviter ce type de décalage, vous pouvez jouer avec les fils en les serrant suffisamment mais pas trop non plus au niveau du début des tours. Bon tricot!

17.05.2021 - 07:48

country flag Ulli wrote:

Hallo Zusammen, leider habe ich so gar nicht verstanden, wann die Ärmel und der Rumpf direkt zusammengestrickt werden? Bei den RAGLAN Ärmeln muss ich erst Maschen abnehmen. Hier steht aber nichts von zusammenstricken.vielleicht habe ich es auch nicht so ganz verstanden

22.04.2021 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulli, am Anfang der Passe legen Sie die Ärmel und den Rumpfteil zusammen (siehe Video), und setzen Sie ienen Markierung bei jedem Übergang, hier wird es für den Raglan abgenommen, dh 2 oder 3 Mal 8 maschen (1 M vor + 1 M nach der Markierung wie unter RAGLANABNAHMEN beschrieben). Kann das Ihnen weiterhelfen?

23.04.2021 - 07:49

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Ich habe diese wundervolle Anleitung nun einmal gestrickt. Leider beginnt die Halsblende bei mir bereits direkt am Hals wodurch ein Steh-/Rollkragen entsteht. Auch das Muster sitzt höher auf den Schultern als auf den Bildern zu sehen ist. Die Maschenprobe und alle sonstigen Maße stimmen. Was habe ich falsch gemacht? Selbst nach dem waschen und spannen ist es eher ein Rollkragen. Wie bekomme ich es hin, dass der Halsausschnitt größer ist und der Rand nicht direkt am Hals anliegt?

31.03.2021 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, per Ferndiagnose ist es etwas schwierig, einen Fehler zu erkennen. Das Modell ist ja ein Herrenmodell, d.h. die Schultern sind so berechnet, dass sie an etwas breitere Herrenschultern passen. Wenn der Pulli von einer Frau oder einem schmalen Mann getragen wird, kann es eventuell an den schmaleren Schultern liegen, dass die Passe und der Kragen höher sitzen. Am besten zeigen Sie den Pulli in Ihrem Wollgeschäft - oder machen ein Foto von dem Pulli (am Körper getragen) und schicken das Ihrem Wollgeschäft, vielleicht kann man Ihnen dort mit Ihrem individuellen Stück weiterhelfen.

06.04.2021 - 11:53

country flag Ann-Kristin Jansson wrote:

Hur ska jag plocka in maskorna från ärmarna i bak/framstycket på rundstickan?

28.03.2021 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann-Kristin. Når du har strikket bolen (fram og bakstykket) og begge ermene, setter du ermene inn på samme rundpinne som bolen der det er felt av masker til ermehull. mvh DROPS design

12.04.2021 - 13:03

country flag Monica wrote:

Hei, jeg skjønner ikke helt om det skal felles masker ved å strikke 2 m sammen på 11. og 22. (og øvrige) rad i mønsteret? Eller om hver 15. og 16. maske på runde 11 skal strikkes sammen. Detsamme med de andre rundene der det står at 2 skal strikkes sammen. Er det én gang den runden eller repeterende gjennom hele runden?

09.03.2021 - 00:45