DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Wrap Around

Set consists of: Knitted head band and neck warmer with English rib. Size S/M – L/XL. Piece is knitted in 2 strands DROPS Air.

DROPS 182-26
DROPS design: Pattern ai-075
Yarn group C + C or E
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For entire set use approx. 150 g in all sizes with 2 strands DROPS Air.
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HEAD BAND:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21''/22'' - 22½''/23½''
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g for both sizes in color 04, medium gray

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 10 mm / US 15 – or size needed to get 8 stitches and 13 rows in English rib with 2 strands = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
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NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference: 78-85 cm / 30 3/4"-33½'' Height: 25-29 cm / 9 3/4"-11½''
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-150 g color 04, medium gray

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 10 mm/US 15 – or size needed to get 8 stitches and 13 rows in English rib with 2 strands = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

DOUBLE YARN TIP:
Use yarn from both inside and outside of the ball. When switching to a new ball, try to avoid switching both strands at the same time - to avoid a thick yarn when fastening.

ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on needle - applies to head band):
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side/right side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat 2nd row upwards.

ENGLISH RIB (in the round on circular needle - applies to neck warmer):
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 1 *, work from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 2: * Purl together yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 3: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit together yarn over and slipped stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3.
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HEAD BAND:
Work piece back and forth on needle. Read DOUBLE YARN TIP!

Cast on 10 stitches on needle size 10 mm / US 15 with 2 strands Air. Work ENGLISH RIB (back and forth) - see explanation above! REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 21-23 cm / 8 1/4"-9'', divide the piece in 2 and work back and forth over the first part as follows (1st row = right side):
ROW 1: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, pick up 1 stitch in loop between the next 2 stitches (= 1 stitch increased). Slip the remaining 5 stitches on needle on a stitch holder. Turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side/right side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* 1 more time, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat 2nd row 4 more times. Work last row from wrong side. Slip stitches on another stitch holder.

Slip stitches from first stitch holder back on needle. Work as follows from right side:
ROW 1: * Knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* 1 more time, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip one stitch purlwise *, work from *-* 1 more time, cast on 1 new stitch at the end for row = 6 stitches. Work the new edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth with English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side for 4 more rows.

Slip stitches from stitch holder back on needle and place this part behind the other so that they cross.
Work the first 5 stitches on needle, knit the next 2 stitches together (= last edge stitch on first part and first edge stitch on second part).
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch worked so that it does not unravel. Continue with English rib and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn and repeat 2nd row in ENGLISH RIB - see explanation above, until piece measures 49-53 cm / 19 1/4"-21''. Loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew head band tog mid back. Sew a couple of stitches mid front where the 2 parts cross. Fasten off.

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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Read DOUBLE YARN TIP

Loosely cast on 62-68 stitches on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with 2 strands Air. Work ENGLISH RIB (in the round on circular needle) - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 25-29 cm / 9 3/4"-11½'', bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Paulina wrote:

Dokładnie tak. Podzieliłam robótkę na dwie części i nie wiem co dalej. Nie rozumiem opisu.

05.05.2021 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Paulino, przerobiłaś 1-szą część robótki i nabrałaś 1 oczko. Pozostałe 5 oczek (narzuty nie są liczone jako oczka; czyli masz 5 oczek i 2 narzuty) zdejmujesz na drut pomocniczy. Obracasz robótkę i przerabiasz to nabrane oczko na prawo (jak trzeba to przekręć je, aby nie było dziurki) i dalej przerabiasz zgodnie z opisem w rzędzie 2. Pozdrawiamy!

06.05.2021 - 15:49

country flag Paulina wrote:

Przy opisie opaski, nie rozumiem I rzędu. Gdy przerabiam po kolei jak w opisie, 1o. francuskie, potem narzut i oczko razem i potem narzut i nabranie oczka bez przerabiania zostają mi kolejne 3 oczka. Co mam z nimi zrobić. Oraz " jeszcze 1 raz, nabrać 1 oczko z nitki poprzecznej między 2 następnymi oczkami (= zostaje dodane 1 oczko). " Czy może zrobić właśnie to z tymi kolejnymi 3 oczkami ? I co to jest nitka poprzeczna ?

04.05.2021 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Paulino, jak nabrać oczko z nitki poprzecznej zobaczysz na początku filmu TUTAJ (najpierw przeczytaj krótki opis do filmu). Czy teraz jesteś w miejscu gdzie robótka została podzielona na 2 części i przerabiasz tylko 1-szą część (rząd 1)?

05.05.2021 - 17:48

country flag Gunn Elin wrote:

Greier ikke å forstå hvordan de to delene skal snurres slik at du får de sammen igjen. Hvordan skal jeg gå fram?

21.01.2021 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunn, se gerne vores video: hvordan strikkes et pannebånd med flette midt foran

27.01.2021 - 14:55

country flag Zelina wrote:

Je vous remercie pour vos explications.

23.12.2020 - 08:29

country flag Zelina wrote:

Bonjour! Au moment de partager le tricot (bandeau) je dois bien avoir 14 mailles? Si oui, le motif est répété plus de 2 fois avant de mettre les 5 dernières mailles sur un arrêt de mailles.

22.12.2020 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zelina, avant de diviser l'ouvrage vous avez 10 mailles (les jetés ne comptent pas comme des mailles car ils sont faits au-dessus de la maille glissée), quand vous divisez l'ouvrage vous tricotez les 5 premières mailles et augmentez 1 m = 6 mailles, les 5 dernières mailles sont placées en attente. Vous tricotez ces 6 mailles en côtes anglaises comme avant, avec 1 maille lisière au point mousse de chaque côté pendant 5 rangs. Bon tricot!

23.12.2020 - 07:08

country flag Helene wrote:

Bonjour, je rencontre une difficulté pour le bandeau. Lorsque je termine les côtes anglaises, je fais le rang 1 indiqué. Après avoir reproduit deux fois *-*, je dois relever une maille entre les deux mailles. Pour cela, dois-je tricoter une maille end, faire une augmentation intercalaire puis de nouveau tricoter une maille end et enfin mettre les 5 mailles restantes sur mon arrêt de maille ? J'ai l'impression que cela ne coïncide pas avec le début du rang 2. Merci d'avance

22.12.2020 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, relever le fil entre les 2 mailles suivantes et tricotez le torse à l'endroit, glissez les 5 dernières mailles en attente, tournez et tricotez maintenant les mailles de la première moitié en côtes anglaises en répétant 5 fois le 2ème rang, À la fin du 1er rang, vous avez terminé par (1 jeté, glissez 1 m à l'env) et 1 augmentation, tournez t tricotez l'augmentation à l'endroit, et *le jeté et la m glissée ensemble à l'endroit, faites 1 jeté et glissez la m suivante*, répétez encore 1 fois de *-* et terminez par 1 m end. Bon tricot!

23.12.2020 - 06:54

country flag Anna wrote:

Liebes Garnstudioteam, ich stricke gerade an dem Stirnband, habe 23cm gestrickt, aufgeteilt und den ersten Teil gestrickt. Jetzt möchte ich den zweiten Teil stricken, mein Faden ist aber ja oben an dem anderen Teil. Wie hole ich den wieder nach unten? Und wie gehe ich damit später um? Hat das etwas mit der Anweisung später, den Faden abzuschneiden und die Masche ziehen? Wo soll ich das noch festbinden? Danke im Voraus für die Antworten, Viele Grüße Anna

21.11.2020 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna, nach 23 cm stricken Sie die Maschen über das 1. Teil (die ubrigen Maschen sind stillgelegt) - nach 1. Teil fertig ist, wird der Faden abgeschnitten und jetzt stricken Sie das 2. Teil und dann die beiden Teile zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.11.2020 - 09:15

country flag Lone wrote:

Beskrivelsen af, hvordan skal forholde sig med snoningen er utrolig dårlig. Det ville have været rart med en instruktionsvideo vedr. dette.

11.02.2020 - 11:38

country flag Nadette wrote:

Bonjour, Je vais adapter les explications de ce snood pour le réaliser avec un tricotin géant. Serait-il possible que Drops développe des modèles avec cet accessoire, alternative intéressante et amusante aux aiguilles circulaires pour ce type d'ouvrages ? Merci

02.11.2018 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadette, votre demande a été transmise à nos stylistes, nos stylistes sont toutefois davantage habituées à la technique de tricot traditionnelle et nous ne pouvons rien vous promettre. Bon tricot!

28.11.2018 - 14:41

country flag Kaja wrote:

Ifølge oppskriften skal man øke til 6 masker på hver del når man har delt arbeidet i to. Men etter man har strikket den todelte delen sier oppskriften kun at man skal strikke sammen to masker en gang, ikke to. Dermed sitter man igjen med 11 masker når man setter de to delene tilbake på samme pinne. Er dette en feil, eller er det meningen at de første 20 cm av pannebåndet har 10 masker, mens de neste 20 cm strikkes med 11? På forhånd takk for hjelpen! Mvh

31.10.2017 - 08:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kaja. Når delene strikkes sammen igjen, skal de 2 midterste maskene strikkes sammen, klipp tråden og trekk tråden igjennom den siste masken som ble strikkes (så disse 2 maskene er ikke lengre med) = 20 masker igjen på pinnen. God Fornøyelse!

03.11.2017 - 09:36