DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Julie

Knitted sweater with lace pattern for kids. Size 2 - 12 years Piece is knitted in DROPS Air.

DROPS Children 30-10
DROPS design: Pattern ai-009-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-200-200-250 g color 10, fog

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm / 16'' and 24'') SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 – or size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER:
Body is worked in the round on circular needle up to armholes. Then work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 104-108-116-120-128-136 stitches on circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches (= the sides). Knit 1 round. Work next round as follows: 7-8-10-7-9-11 stitches in stockinette stitch, purl 2, A.1 (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches), purl 4, A.2 (= 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches), purl 4, A.3 (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches), purl 2, knit the rest of round. Continue the pattern like this and move the markers upwards when working. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 20-22-24-27-30-33 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10½"-11 3/4"-13'', bind off 2 stitches in each side for armholes (bind off 1 stitch on each side of both marker treads). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch. Work back and forth until piece measures 30-33-36-40-44-48 cm / 11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19''. Now bind off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue in stockinette stitch and bind off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until piece measures 31-34-37-41-45-49 cm / 12 1/4"-13½"-14½"-16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4'', work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH over all stitches, then bind off. Piece measures approx. 32-35-38-42-46-50 cm / 12½"-13 3/4"-15"-16½"-18"-19 3/4'' from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Continue pattern as before. Work back and forth until piece measures 28-31-33-37-40-44 cm / 11"-12 1/4"-13"-14½"-15 3/4"-17 1/4''. Now slip the middle 10-12-14-16-16-18 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue pattern as before and bind off for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches remain for shoulder. Work until piece measures 31-34-37-41-45-49 cm / 12 1/4"-13½"-14½"-16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4'', work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH over all stitches, then bind off. Piece measures approx. 32-35-38-42-46-50 cm / 12½"-13 3/4"-15"-16½"-18"-19 3/4'' from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches on double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 with Air. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-4-4-4-4-4 cm / 1½'' all sizes 5-7-7-9-10-11 times in total = 38-42-44-48-52-54 stitches. When piece measures 27-32-36-40-44-48 cm / 10½"-12½"-14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19'', bind off all stitches. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew in sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 58 to 68 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. Work 3 ridges in the round. Bind off by knitting.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 30-10

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Corinne wrote:

Bonjour Je possède 4 pelotes baby alpaga Silk et 4 pelotes kid Silk qui doivent se tricoter ensembles On me les a donnée mais je ne sais pas quelle grosseur d’aiguille je dois utiliser et quel modèle je pourrai réaliser avec cette laine J’aimerai réaliser un pull en 6/7 ans Merci pour votre aide

01.07.2023 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, vous n'auriez pas assez pour ce modèle avec 4 pelotes Baby Alpaca Silk en taille 5/6 ans (il vous en faudrait 6 (soit 270 g), cf convertisseur). Vous pouvez consulter les modèles tricotés en fil du groupe A (comme Baby Alpaca Silk ou Kid-Silk) ou les tricoter ensemble sur la base d'un échantillon de 16 mailles (voir ici - cette leçon vous aidera à calculer si vous aurez suffisamment de laine. Bon tricot!

03.07.2023 - 10:18

country flag Guyot Pascale wrote:

Un mot pour vous remercier de vos beaux modèles. Je viens de réaliser celui ci en coloris 16 pour ma petite fille. Une réussite. Je commence le modèle 34-10 en sky. Je suis fan de vos laines et de vos modèles. Hâte d en découvrir de nouveau. Merci

29.01.2021 - 14:35

country flag Gjertrud Witzøe wrote:

Strikket denne modellen , enkel og grei oppskrift .. Ble veldig fornøyd . Takk for at dere deler gratis oppskrifte :)

27.04.2020 - 23:31

country flag Laila Larsen wrote:

Hej\r\nJeg er i tvivl om vrangmaskerne som man laver på 1. pind før, efter og imellem diagrammet skal fortsætte hele vejen op?

04.03.2020 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Laila. Ja, vrangmaksene skal strikkes hele veien. Om du ser på bildet, ser du at det er vrangmasker før, etter og imellom flettene. God Fornøyelse!

09.03.2020 - 08:09

country flag Carlota wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai tricoté en circulaire jusqu’aux emmanchures et je ne parviens pas à tricoter le motif du devant avec les aiguilles droites. Faut-il commencer par un rang endroit/envers ? (Je commence avec un rang endroit - première ligne du diagramme en lisant du bas vers le haut et de la droite vers la gauche, rang suivant de la gauche vers la droite). \r\nPeut-on continuer en circulaire en tricotant les manches en même temps comme les pulls tricotés en bottom up ? Merci

25.10.2019 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carlotta, si vous avez rabattu les mailles au dernier tour sur un rang ajouré des diagrammes, votre premier rang sur le dos/le devant sera un rang sur l'envers, si vous avez rabattu les mailles au dernier tour sur un tour sans jour/diminution, le 1er rang du dos/devant sera alors un rang sur l'endroit. Lisez ensuite les diagrammes de gauche à droite sur l'endroit et de droite à gauche sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

25.10.2019 - 13:59

country flag Jane Moore wrote:

Looking for free knitted baby dress patterns

21.08.2019 - 18:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Moore, please find our knitted baby dresses patterns here. Happy knitting!

22.08.2019 - 09:51

country flag Sigrid wrote:

Wie sind die Diagramme beim Rumpfstricken zu verstehen, daja nur die rechte Seite rundgegestrickt wird? müssen die Rückreihen in rechten oder linken Maschen gestrickt werden?

11.01.2019 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sigrid, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, beginnen Sie die Diagramme an der unteren Ecke an der rechten Seite und lesen Sie sie rechts nach links bei jeder Runde. Wenn Sie dann hin un zurück stricken werden die Rückreihen links nach rechts gelesen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.01.2019 - 15:09

country flag Jannie wrote:

Hvor mange nøgler drops air alpaka skal jeg beregne til en bluse i str 12 år? Og hvordan beregner man generelt mængden af garnforbrug? 😊🤔

05.01.2019 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janni. helt øverst i oppskriften, under "materialer" står det hvor mange gram garn du trenger i hver størrelse. DROPS Air kommer i nøster på 50 g. til størrelse 12 år trenger du 250 g = 5 nøster a 50 g. Vi har en garnkalkulator som du kan bruke om du ønsker å finne alternative garn. Den vil også fortelle deg hvor mange gram du trenger. God fornøyelse

07.01.2019 - 10:15

country flag Solfrid wrote:

Skjønner ikkje forklaring på felling til halsen 😱

13.11.2018 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Solfrid, Du begynner med å felle av de midterste 16-18-20-22-22-24 maskene på bakstykket og deretter strikker hver skulder ferdig for seg. Du fortsetter med glattstrikk og feller av 1 maske på hals enden av neste pinne = 16-16-17-17-19-20 masker tilbake på skulderen. Da strikker du skulderen ferdig uten flere fellinger og andre skulder på samme måten. Frontstykket er mye av det samme, men flere fellinger til halsen og strikker mønster. God fornøyelse!

14.11.2018 - 08:13

country flag Tone wrote:

Neida, gjør ikke noe. Håper bare jeg får det til når jeg kommer så langt og skal felle til hals. Ser hva du mener når det står Strikk rett ut omgangen, men trodde det gjaldt til neste merketråd for så å begynne på ny. Mottaker vet jo ikke jeg har gjort feil

18.06.2018 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tone, Jeg er sikker på at modtageren bliver superglad for gaven. Rigtig god fornøjelse! :)

19.06.2018 - 08:58